Max_S

Hi everyone! I’ve bereits reading around here and other places for a while, but I keep hitting opposing statements regarding conversions to all-around discs. I plan on building a 240/260 to make around 220kw at the rear wheels, maybe a bit more. At that power-level I’m required to run disc brakes all around. Planned wheels are currently 16inch Volk TE37V or Minilites (the latter are supposedly a little easier to get approved). I might get away with using custom made spacers, but I can’t use washers on the brakes or manipulate calipers/brackets visibly (as in, changing their shape/outline). And I can only trim the backing plate, not remove it entirely. Also, using brakets and calipers from car-brands would be VERY favorable to aftermarket brands, but its no must-do. As far as I have understood, I can use calipers from a Toyota 4Runner, with solid rotor calipers bolting right up while using vented rotors need the calipers to be sitting on spacers. In the rear a 79 Maxima‘s bracket will let a 82-83 280ZX‘ rear rotor and caliper to bolt directly on. With an adjustable proportioning-valve the two beakes should behave together nicely. Did I get that right? Or are there good other options you can recommend? Rule of thumb is that the brakes have to be capable of reliably stopping a car that is stronger than the one they’re mounted on, so I‘d be happy to use the space 16“ wheels offer and "overbuild“ the brakes a little. Thanks in advance, Max

I found an article on Speedhunters on a 240 running an inverted hatch (“Airone R-Gate”) and a roll bar. Might just be a style bar, but it looks like there’s enough space for a bar and slightly angled supports behind the buckets in this version of the hatch, from where one could extend to the front as a cage. The rear domes (ideal points to mount to) might be too far back though. As for finding a hatch, I got a contact to a company that imports cars and car parts from Japan, so it might be a good idea to, when the time comes, contract them to find one. Max

Hi everyone Looking around for aftermarket parts I like AND can legally install on a Z (for road use) in Germany I came across the "Pantera hatch" or "inverted hatch". I know they're a bit polarizing, and apparently rather rare. To those who don't know what I'm talking about, I'm talking about those things: Can someone give me a little bit of information on those things? Are there companies that sell them? Or are they only to be found on the used market? Or are they DIY-pieces made out of the conventional hatch? I'm asking because the hatches slightly differ in some pictures. Does/did anyone here run that part? If so, where did you get it/who made it? Also, in this picture it seems like the car has an inverted hatch and a roll bar, does anyone have any information/experience in combining that type of hatch with a roll bar/-cage? Because I'd want the added safety, the law is probably going to require a bar/cage for stiffening, and since I got very little idea about how a car with an inverted hatch looks inside I wonder if it's possible to combine the two. Thanks in advance, Max

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Hello everyone As part of my planned 240/260-project I want to do a 5-lug-conversion, to increase the choice of wheels and brakes on the very restricted German market. what are good options that let me use the stock chassis (no tube frame car) and as few custom self made made parts as possible? I heard that 300ZX-Hubs are a good option, and someone told me that RX7 FD hubs (or even the whole front axle assembly) can be transferred too. Any other options you heard of/can recommend? Thanks in advance, Max

Actually found one guy who did it:

With the gold wheels you might want to consider a darker green for contrast, closer to BRG, for example.

Hi everyone I'm still planning on my future Z, and since the current plan is to stick a much younger engine from a different manufacturer into the Z without transplanting too much else from the donor it seems like a standalone ECU is the way to go. Now, as part of the RestoMod I've been playing with the idea of replacing the face-and-needle gauges with one of two digital solutions. Option one would be round digital gauges, like those made by Intellitronix: Example Has anyone here ever used them in a Z? The other, originally preferred option, would be fully digital gauge displays like those offered by Haltech or Motech: Problem: The Z comes with individual "cups" for the gauges, and just sticking a big display in front of them would look weird. Has anyone ever managed to make a display (like this or any other) look somewhat integrated into the dash? I guess it's possible to "cut back" the gauge-cups a bit, but I wonder what the result would look like. Thanks in advance, Max

I would consider doing the center console panel in a different surface/look (alloy, outside color, carbon, take your pick) and look for a way to attach it without the exposed screw, maybe magnets or a something like that.

In Germany engine-swaps are not really an option, but around here (while rare) the old Zs are still quite beloved (3XX Z, not so much). It's often attributed to the classic design (long hood and short, relatively far back cabin), great driving characteristic and no-nonsense drivetrain (NA I6 in the front, manual box, rear wheel drive). Also, they manage to stick out without being any bit obnoxious. They used to be a low-priced entry into sports car driving, but for the 240/260Z those days are over. Max

You could cut the fenders, glue on bolt-on flares, cut the heads of a few matching bolts and glue those to the fenders. It wouldn't be as safe as proper bolt-ons, but it would give you the look without drilling. Max

So...something like Chris' V10 build? Body panels on a custom frame?

VQ seems to be a decent option, Rotary is still my favorite (I have to finish calculating that one, though). V6 with two "snails" on there sounds pretty perfect, but also pretty illegal ☹️ I have to see what the TÜV says to my plans. There are the "power steps" in approval of 20 and 40 percent, above that and I have to see which requirements my TÜV comes up with. SR20 still sounds nice, but I'm pretty sure I'll go with a six-banger (I already got a fun four-cylinder from Japan), so don't make me reconsider for the ten-thousandth time^^. Or maybe I'll have two Zs one day.... 🤔 As I mentioned above, a big question mark is still a source for engines, the German market for Japanese engines is tiny and expensive, and searching craigslist state-by-state is pretty time-consuming. Max

@seattlejester First off, to you and all others who have replied here, thanks for the patience with the newbie 🙇‍♂️ The intake on the picture you posted is metal, and looks just fine. However, when I googled VQ engines/swaps, I mostly found pictures like this. And that was a bit too much plastic for my taste. I've seen a few of the metal ones you posted, and two swaps running intake-manifolds from the GT-R, but when I went down that path I pretty soon found an adaptor-kit for that manifold for over 1000 Dollars. So that didn't seem sensible, spending 1000 Dollars to swap one piece of plastic for a slightly prettier one. Unique...yeah, bad choice of words. "Rare" would have been better. It would just be nice to have something that gets more of a yawned "seen it before" out of other people. Doesn't have to be literally unique, but also not 1000000x done-to-death (like BBS on a Golf). As for the cage, I assume you think I mean something like this: I don't. That's far too extreme for a roadcar (and probably a pain to climb through). I was thinking of a half-cage behind the seats (like those Porsche sticks in their GT3/GT2 road cars), and maybe a bar to the front for some side-protection. I had a halo-bar in mind for the added safety, but actually backed off that plan since I'm not really planning to run a butt-naked interior (and don't know if I want to cut the dash to bits). So it's probably going to be closer to this than to this. The List: "Uniqueness"/Rarity=It's not going to be a showcar as the main purpose, but if it sticks out a bit/draws attention, that would be great. So I don't want something that's been done a million times and turned usual business/boring. As for aesthetics: A clean engine bay, in my eyes, would be something in this direction: A "messy" one something like this: As I said before, it doesn't have to be completely "tucked", but decently organised. That fuel-injection means a bit more electrics than carbs is clear, that a turbo means more piping too, I was just looking for good examples here. The horsepower, as said before, would be nice, but I could be just fine with falling just short of it. 260 is the "must have", 300 would be the perfection. The power-band, seems like I'm just not "up to date" on turbochargers there. I know a turbo always has a bit of lag, I'm basically looking for a "compromise" so I got some midrange power, not just when I'm starting to scrape on the limiter. Trans-tunnel modification/replacement...well, I'd like to keep the stock console, and it of course cuts down on fabrication if I don't have to engineer and construct a new floorpan. Some widening/raising shouldn't be a big problem though. Budget at the start (about a year from now) will be around 8-10 thousand Euros (9-11 thousand US-Dollars), if that money is spent I'll go "bit by bit". As I said before, I got tons of patience, but not endless funds. I haven't calculated out every Euro yet, but lets say I want to keep it "grounded", I'm not planning a 50k or 80k or even more money build. Just like you can resto-mod a Mustang and stick 30.000 into it or 130.000. At some point you got to decide where to put your money. That's what I meant earlier with looking for a reasonable package, and it's why, for example, I kicked the RB26DETT early on since it would've been much more expensive for me than a 2JZ, which is relatively similar. My MX5-restoration started out at 3000 Euros, by now it's at 8 grand. Wasn't expected, but I spent money where it was worth spending, and if I had to wait for a month or two in between, I did that. It looks more and more like that (I'm still running two plans parallel, so this is talking piston-engines). They're available, spares can be had at any German Nissan-dealership (even if it says "Infinity" on the engine, as far as I know), they're quite compact, and the heavy bit (the transmission) is relatively centered in the car (while the shifter doesn't seem to move too much). And they put out enough power. A problem I've run into is where to find engines in general, the (tiny) German market seems a bit expensive to me. Or is it perfeclty fine, for example, for a VQ35DE (221kw version) to run at 5.500 Dollars (and more) used (from a company) with around 60.000 miles on the clock? (Just the engine, no accessories). Looking at engines I've found ones with shipping to Germany for as little as 200 Dollars, so if they're cheaper there that would be an option. Or is there a good source in Japan (other than Nissan/Mazda/etc itself)? Max

@30 ounce There is no defined "threshold", as far as I know it's "fluid". The bigger the displacement, the more expensive the taxes. It's why a VR6-Golf is much more expensive than a 1.8T, because while they can put out the same power and can have the same equipment the VR has more displacement. It's meant to discourage using big thirsty engines, unless it's for certified vintage cars (which my Z won't be). Those who run LS-cars (or any American V8) usually just ship (parts for) them in from the US, either through the manufacturer or themselves (same goes for a lot of cars, by the way). @seattlejester Early on I read somewhere (don't remember where exactly) that a big downside of the 350Z's engine is "the big plastic intake, which can't really be skipped". I've seen one swap throw an R35 GT-R's cover on there, but it was just a photo, I don't know if it even works. Priorities: Looks aren't the main priority, but they are still very "high up on the list" since I'll spend a lot more time looking at the car than looking out of it. The original idea was to get a classic car, put in relatively modern technology, and throw around 260hp at the rear wheels (in Europe WHP is pretty much all that matters, almost nobody measures or mentions crank-hp). My first car ever made 68hp, the MX5 makes 131, it just seemed "neat" to double that again with the next project. And then that "little child in my head" went "why not make it 300, nice even number?" So I guess that's where I went off-track a bit, partly my own fault, partly that of seeing all kinds of crazy engine swaps from the states. And when I looked around the first thing that came up was the 2JZ, followed by LS-swaps. I have to admit, a big part of the rotary-swap idea was the uniqueness of that combination, which is why I also went and put together a "plan b" with a piston-engine. My main priority is to have "250+" horsepower at the wheels, and that in a useable way, meaning not just having power at the very end of the rev-band. Great for the dyno and the 1/4-mile, but not very good for my kind of driving, where plenty of time is spent at as (relatively) low as 3-4k rpm. The power is supposed to be actually usable for more than bragging. Maybe I should tell, the first turbo-car I ever drove was the Opel Speedster Turbo, it had a whole lot of nothing coming from the engine, with the turbo kicking in rough and VERY late, I don't want that. 300hp is perfection/ideal, but I would probably be just fine if the car falls just short of it. I guess number two is performance-feel (that was the problem-point with weight-distribution, in my mind a car wants to corner less happily the more weight I throw onto or past the front wheels), and also things like the engine being rev-happy and having a nice-shifting gearbox, no "pudding bag" or even automatic). I've had quite a few people say "take any turbocharged engine, and just slap the biggest turbo on there you can find". Yeah...no. Might get my target-hp, or more, but as I said, I want a car with a usable power-range, so while a turbo is an option supercharging or NA-tuning is also. Number three is looks, four is ease of install (I can get some custom mounts, I can't construct a pipe-frame to put the whole body on, I can expand the front of the tunnel a bit, I can't move the firewall entirely or create a new underside). I'm not going to do a completely "tucked" engine bay (because that's impractical), and I might not get something super-mega-clean like the famous FuguZ, but it should still be nice to look at. Summed up, with the hood closed it's supposed to look like a 240/260 that could be taken to the track, with a few updated details (seats, brakes, wheels, etc, but, for example, no rocket-bunny-stuff or huge wing), with the hood open I don't want carbs but also don't want a whole lot of plastic or a chaotic snake-pit of wires and hoses. That look is also where my plan for a cage comes in, serving "tripple-duty". 1st, a cage improves safety, even a roadcar can go shiny side down. Second, it improves stiffness, which is good for handling and for the approval-process. Third, I think it would look good. Parts-availability is low on the list, I don't care if a part takes two weeks from the states or Japan, as long as I can get the parts to keep the engine/drivetrain running. A big bonus if the engine came with a five or six-speed manual, eases approval for road-use. Fuel-consumption doesn't matter, as long as it is fuel (and not diesel, I've had someone recommend a cummins-swap), I plan on a fuel-cell (goes for the racecar-style) so I should be able to haul some fuel if necessary. Cost isn't really on the "priority-list", I don't want to waste money but also not cut corners or safe a tiny bit of money but be unhappy with the result. Limitations: Fuel injection, 6 cylinders (decided I don't really want a 4-banger after all), 3 (3.5 at most) liters of displacement in stock form (the TÜV doesn't see if the displacement was enlarged as part of tuning), ideally an engine I can run on a custom ECU (haltech, motech, that sort of thing, so I have more freedom in programming (with safety-measures, for example, or a low-power-lean-run "TÜV"-setting, that sort of thing). Also, some space left in the engine-bay to run power brakes, sufficient (or over-build) cooling, an A/C-system (on the engine or electrical), because I need heating by law so I already got to have the vents and such, and maybe a power steering kit. Oh, and the whole package has to fit a stock hood, if I get an intake sticking out the hood, or even just a scoop, chances at road-legal approval go down DRASTICALLY (pedestrian safety is seen as compromised with anything bulging/sticking out of the hood). Gearboxes: Manual, five or six-speed, no straight-cut gears (it's still a roadcar, and the straight-cut-gear-whine gets on my nerve even if I only watch videos). Nice if it fits with just a "massaged"/widened tunnel, even better if it fits (towards the interior) with the stock center console. Big bonus if I can use the donor car's gearbox (stock or if necessary with stronger gears), makes the approval-process A LOT cheaper. Fabricating new mounts/having someone fabricate them is perfectly okay. Drivetrain: I'm already factoring in a new driveshaft, so if I find a place that'll make those I should be able to find a source for stronger axles if needed. New/stronger differential is already on the list too, definitive decision there depends on the engine/gearbox I end up choosing. Max

@rturbo 930 The plan in it current version holds a half-cage (look at a Porsche 911 GT3/GT2), with bars running around the doors too. Door bars...undecided. The car won't be a track-car, but "track-ish" if that makes sense. Also, I like the added security (same reason I'm dropping a roll bar in my MX5, which will NEVER see a racetrack or be driven at the limits), and it's well known that the TÜV is more forgiving with power-increases if they see a properly done, preferably welded-in bar/cage that "connects" from the rear strut-towers to the front footwell (front towers are often no-go-extensions, for worries that it might "impale" the other car in a crash). Also, to be honest, I kinda like the look of it, and although the focus is on function looks still matter. @Miles The concept started with "modern tech in an old shell" before the Z was picked, so, at least for this project, working off the stock drivetrain is no option. I'm still going to copy the notes from your reply, who knows, maybe I'll have two Zs one day The car won't be a daily driver, I got a cheap and robust Golf for that for the foreseeable future. Like my MX5, the Z would be a "weekend warrior", just a different kind of car than the MX. I want a nice sporty car for the weekends. Not too extreme (so...no straight-cut gears, for example), or no completely back-breaking seats and all solid mounts/bushings, but among other idea's I've been playing around ideas of harnesses (quite like that idea) or a larger fuel-cell than the stock tank (undecided, main downside is that as far as I know that would "kill" any fuel-gauge). I'll keep the Toyota 4x4 brakes in mind. Brakes are not the biggest problem with the TÜV, since those guys tend to be a bit forgiving when it evidently improves safety (a lot of old BMWs and Volkswagens with more power run Porsche-bits or complete aftermarket setups, no problem there). @Ereschkigal The 40% increase isn't a solid ceiling, it's a hurdle/expense. If all else fails, I found a company who claim they can get stuff approved much easier than individual people. There's a ton of cars running more than 140% stock power, so while it's annoying that there's that hurdle, it doesn't mean I can't go past it. @seattlejester I have to look into that more. I was...hesitant with V-engines because, from other engine-swap stories (V8 E30s, for example), I've heard of having to basically build a new front end, or...brave patching-together of custom steering-assemblies, which NEVER sits well with the TÜV if your steering-colum consists of countless joints. So I kind of disadvantaged the V from the start. As for the VQ, I'll have to look into that further. Not only into tuning, but also in the looks-department. Because, as I said above, while function has the priority on this build, I still want it to look good. And the stock plastic lump on these engines does not fit that plan. Torquey and reliable sounds good, brand loyalty doesn't really matter. What would be helpful is if the stock transmission could be bolted into the Z without needing a complete new underside (some widening/raising of the tunnel is fine), because that makes a few of the hurdles easier to pass if the donor and the swapped car have the same gearbox with the same ratios. For now I'm "saddling the horse from the rear", making decision on other bits, while the engine is undecided. I still got the "A-plan" with the rotary, Plan B would be a six-cylinder for sure, either V from the newer Zs or a 2JZ/RB. A big question mark is still a place to get those engines, apart from the scarce offerings on the German market (and I don't speak/read Japanese). Max

@Zetsaz Around here, anything but engine-tuning or an L28 would be plenty unique. Street. "Weekend Warrior", so it'll be driven rather hard (but not abusive), mainly on twisty backroads. Not looking for 1/4-mile acceleration or top-speed (Autobahn-driving is actually kinda boring), but for plenty of usable power (so a big turbo-lag is not really desired). Racing/Autocross is far smaller in Germany compared to the states, outside of entering in some sort of touring-car-series there's almost no option for regular closed course track-use. Government regulations are complicated and excessive. Engine-swaps usually can't worsen a car's impact on nature (think, fuel-consumption and exhaust-gasses), but since the Z was made before the current norms were put in place I should be fine as long as there're no black clouds coming from the exhaust. Also, fuel injection is a big plus in that field, making engines (seem) more effective (side note, I want fuel injection for simplicity's sake). Over 40% more power than stock (although here the 260 and 280's might count) power opens up a list of hurdles, which I have to pass is down to the TÜV-engineer. It's the advantage of a turbo-engine, I can run very low boost when they dyno the car, so the power-increase isn't too severe, (hopefully) giving me less hurdles to jump over. Some I always have to pass (noise, brake-power appropriate to horse-power, weight per wheel, load-bearing capability of each wheel), some are optional (chassis-stiffness (a cage gives you a lot of bonus points there), speedometer-precision-test or 100/500/1000km test drive (the latter two are to be done on closed roads/tracks, making them quite expensive). It helps to give the TÜV a completed concept to look at, so they see that it's a thought-through plan before you start working. The biggest problem is that the TÜV makes it difficult to use certain parts (suspension, brakes, interior-bits), making it more expensive to change/upgrade those. For a "rough idea", most wheels that aren't on the German market already aren't road-legal here (like Konig wheels, for example, or a lot of Volk ones). For some reason (don't understand it myself) I have much better chances if I modify the car before it gets first registered for German roads, which is why I'm planning ahead so far. Also, apart from all laws, each TÜV-engineer personally decides what modification he approves, so even fulfilling all legal requirements doesn't mean you get approval. Which...kind of sucks. Experience: First engine-swap, last project was a restoration which I started with little more knowledge than how to take the wheels off a car, so it's meant to be a learning experience. Some bits (engine-tuning, working on the head/block, paint) will be done by experts, I'm probably going to learn how to weld. Budget: I got a starting-budget, but no fixed limit (learned that that's not worth much on the restoration). I'm not "made of money", so I'm not going to waste money (like buying a needlessly expensive engine or having a shop do ALL the work), but since I got no time-limit on the build and a garage to store the car I can go step by step with the project (worked fine on the restoration, took a while but got done without breaking my bank account). Sounds stupid, but it actually worked out fine for me so far. Parts... Most of them will be imported (car, engine, some tuning-bits). A lot of Japanese cars in Germany are imports (from Japan/Britain in RHD or North America in LHD), either because the car was never sold here or because it's cheaper to import (yourself or through a dealership) than to buy a car that's already here for a bit. I consider myself decently fluid in English and through my first project (MX5/Miata NA) I got some "contacts" I could, for example, ask to check out a car or to ship parts "via them" if a seller doesn't ship to Europe. For Japan...I could build contacts there, over forums, too, I assume. My Mazda is currently living in my parents 3-car garage, which has plenty of space (only being used with two cars) and soon it'll move into a different garage. I got some basic tools, my father's got a bunch more I could use. Only thing I'm lacking (for now) is a welder (didn't need one so far), lift (working with Jackstands/ramps) and engine-crane (which can literally be obtained in a few days). Don't know exactly where I'm headed after graduation, but the weekend-car(s) are going to stay at my parent's place for the time being, until I figure out storage wherever I go after university. The rotary was the first idea, an engine that I quite like in a car that I quite like. But because of its unique-ness and the downsides I saw (as mentioned above) I also went looking for an alternative. The common LS (which is an attractive idea) is out because with the big displacement taxes get too expensive, BMW-engines are out for cost of parts/maintenance/repairs. None. A handful of SR20s and L28s are driving around, but most tuning is limited to different carbs, hotter camshafts, that sort of thing. Tuning vintage cars is rather unusual around here (some people get the pitchforks out if they only see wrong-year wheels on a car), and the stuff that is done is 99% VAG. Found two so far, both are more focused on preservation than modification. One that mentions tuning is about period-correct modifications. I know that from the restoration, certainly doesn't scare me away from it. I just want to make the right decisions so I don't sink money into something I won't like, which is why I'm asking so much. Max

Downsides from the rotary are that there's nothing pre-fabricated I could use, and there's little knowledge since it's rarely been done. That's why I don't think it's a good choice for a first-time swap. Of course, weight and measures are pretty ideal, and it's certainly a nice idea. A side-problem is that, to get them approved, I have to justify my engine-choice. And the rotaries don't really have a good image (ineffective, oil-thirsty, etc). I'm still keeping it in my plans, but I'm also looking for an alternative. Maybe I was taught wrong, but I learned that a sporty car handles well if it gets as close as possible to 50:50 balance, and that light cars suffer if you stick a heavy engine on/ahead of the front wheels (on a side-note, moving/drastically reshaping the firewall isn't an option, if the TÜV notices I might loose any chance at getting the car on the road). Honestly, the L28ET is a bit "disadvantaged" because, for lack of better wording, it's "too close to stock" (regarding donor car, lineage and age). What you wrote makes sense though, so (with the rotary "on the side") it's down to inline-6-engines, mainly the RBs or 2JZs. Gonna have to look around more for experiences, and "on the side" I'm going to start putting together parts lists, reasoning and such for two concepts (rotary and piston-powered). Max

For BMW-engines, I actually considered the S54 (E46 M3's inline-6). It comes in about 20Kg under a 2JZ (around 215 Kilograms), and puts out 340hp give or take a few in stock form. I can get one for around 4.5-5 thousand Euros, which already is more than I would pay for a 2JZ GTE, for example, and much more than an RB25DET costs (can't find an RB26 right now). Also, they have their issues, and anything that breaks or that I want to improve comes at a premium (BMW-parts aren't cheap, M-parts even less). I haven't considered the L28 because, to be honest, from the start I had a more modern engine in mind, so the only engine from the Z-line that was an option was the V6 from the 350Z, which I kicked mainly due to the big plastic intake (looks matter). At this point I'm pretty sure I'll go for an inline-engine (rotary is too difficult to swap, V8 is very difficult to get TÜVed and very expensive to run (taxes are decided by displacement, and with no "exhaust norm" I'm already at a premium). I like the idea of a more modern inline-6, but I'm unsure since I don't know what it does to handling if you throw over 20% of the weight to the front wheels (and further to the front). That's why I started looking into inline4-engines as well. But my focus is still on inline-6s, and I'll start looking into the L28 (turbo) after all, and also read up on the RBs apart from the 26DETT. The main obstacle there is the balance. Max

Simple question, but haven't really been able to find an answer. To those who run RB26-engines (NA or turbocharged) or Toyota's 2JZ-engine in a Z, does it make the car feel nose-heavy? Because I imagine that it does, with both engines being quite heavy (iron blocks) and long, putting a lot of weight relatively far out front. I'm asking since both engines are attractive options (the L28 used to be too, as a turbo, but is not quite what I'm looking for), but a balanced and well-cornering package is important to me. Max

Loving the idea (and the renderings), really wish something like that would be legal over here. Curious to see how it pans out. Are you going to try and squeeze in Dodge interior bits too, or sticking with Datsun? Max

Hi everyoneEven after spending a long time looking around this forum I'm still unsure what engine to pick for my project.The main problem with that is that I can't buy the Z, import it, and then drive it while I figure stuff out.I have to have a completed concept to present to the TÜV (the company in charge of approving modifications and imported cars for road use) before I turn a single screw on the car, and before it's first registered in Germany.Also, logically, I like to know what I'm getting into from the start.So I hope you don't mind me straight-out asking for input on a decision I'm sure many of you have had to make at some point.What I'm looking for:Since the 240/260Z is a very light car I'm looking for a relatively light fuel injected engine, preferably one that sits far back even without moving the firewall (so the balance isn't thrown off too much), and that will put out at least 300hp reliably (the car won't be abused, but it won't be completely "pampered" either, the car is a weekend-fun-toy for twisty country roads).The car should have a usable powerband, not just produce big numbers on the dyno.What I'm currently considering:Mazda 13b: Awesome idea, but would require a lot of fabrication, so probably not a good first swap. Also, I've heard complains about lacking torque.Chevy LS (Alloy block): Great power and torque, no lag, but I imagine it to be making the car a bit nose-heavy. Also, super-expensive to run (regarding taxes and insurance).RB26/Toyota 2JZ: Great engines, lots of information, but, like the LS, I imagine them to make the car quite nose-heavy, with the engines being rather long and having iron blocks.VQ35DE: Only seen relatively little of it, the big lump of plastic that seems to come with it is not really "up my alley", so that would probably have to go. Also, stock it falls short of the 300hp, and apart from twin-turbos I've seen little options in tuning.Turbo-4-cylinders, like the SR20: Compact and good power, but I'm worried by hearing people in other places say they're disappointed in lacking torque and that the car "sounds like nothing". Also, to get my desired power-figure (talking wheel-horsepower here), how big/bad would the lag from a turbo be?I'm still learning about Zs, and especially the 4-cylinders and V6s are "uncharted territory", so while I appreciate any input I'd especially appreciate input on the latter two.What made you chose this or that engine?What made you chose it instead of a different one?Anything you regret/aren't happy with?I got the whole concept pretty much worked out, except for the engine and things that depend on that (suspension, brakes).Thanks in advance,Max

Hi everyone Trying to find an engine for my planned 240/260z-project, I keep coming back to the rotary from Mazda. It has fuel-injection, it's not crazy expensive to run in Germany (like a V8 would be), and it's compact and relatively light. But looking around, including old threads in this forum, three things are still "in the air". First: Does anyone here have experiences with a rotary in an S30? Last I found was "I want to" and "I consider". Has anyone got one running and driven it? How much was transplanted (engine? Gearbox? Turbos? Electronics?)? Are there photos (all I got so far is a speedhunters-article on a three-rotor racecar). Second: By now, is there any place to buy fitting engine-mounts? Or are there at least sketches so I could have them made? Because all I could fab up myself would be solid mounts, and I don't think that that's very pleasant (after all, I'm not planning an all-out racecar). Third: What kind of power can you squeeze out with how much work/which consequences? Sure, just slapping a big turbo on it will give a big dyno-number, but probably also a very short engine-life and a rough "kick" at the end of the big lag. And that's not very helpful/nice for road use. Thanks in advance, Max

I asked in another forum (German language), and someone sent me a list of conditions the TÜV puts up for 20, 40, or over 40% more power which he got from a BMW-forum. The list is...kinda insanely long (and expensive), and having to do all of it would cost easily a few ten-thousand Euros. Some stuff is fairly easy (like finding out how much power the car puts out), other things would be expensive (like the "Fahrerprobung", which apparently means you have to rent out a racetrack or similar), or the "Fahrversuch", done by a TÜV-engineer over 2000km. Apparently VW holds a lot of paperwork even for modified cars, a luxury other car-makers don't grand the customers. [ Max

'n Abend I think if you stick ANY LS in there and step on the gas, the car won't drive but just get longer. But if you can, PLEASE do it. Trailer it to the TÜV, don't say a word, and watch the engineer get a heart-attack^^ Max