fusion

October 6

Thread the bolt in while welding so it makes it harder to lose shape

October 6

That's basically what I was thinking. But all the images I've seen seem to show everyone making just one cut.

October 5

Anyone?

October 3

I am in the early stages of fitting my rear ZG flares on my 280z. I have read through a lot of install threads, most of which have broken picture links. My understanding is the best way to decide how high up to mount the flares is to remove the spring from my BC racing coilover to allow the shock to compress all the way to the bump stop.

However, when I did that, I can only compress the shock up so far until the rear wheel/tire (275-50-r15) runs into the factory wheel arch. There is still a ways to go before the bump stop bottoms out. But it's extremely hard to measure the distance remaining. It's a chicken-and-egg scenario. I can't determine where to make my cut line until I can compress the wheel/tire all the way, but I can't do that without cutting the metal first.

I must be missing something, any thoughts?

October 1

I am going to be mounting my flares soon and need to get the rivnuts. I have read a bunch of threads but was looking for some feedback.

Aluminum

Pros: won't rust. Easy to crimp down. Easy to drill out if needed.

Cons: weak threads that can strip. Galvanic corrosion to steel body?

Zinc plated steel

Pros: strong. Somewhat easy to crimp down. Decent rust resistance? No galvanic corrosion? Able to be tack welded to body.

Cons: not enough rust resistance?

Stainless

Pros: strong. Won't rust. Able to be tack welded to body

Cons: hard to crimp down? Galvanic corrosion? Hard to drill out if needed.

Thoughts?

August 30

I like to use a low power setting on my MIG and make a couple of small tacks next to, but not on, the hole. This acts as a heat sink. Then I do small tacks butting up to the heatsink and move subsequent tacks across the hole until it's filled in. If this method blows through the metal then it needs to be cut out anyways.

August 8

SOLD

August 5

Thanks guys. I won't be tracking the car, but will have lots of power on tap so want to upgrade the stopping power. I understand I'll need to tune the brake bias.

I am leaning towards the later model s12+8 calipers with vented 300zx rotors. I feel like that will be a good match with the mustang rear discs.

Does anyone know if the front rotors from an 84-86 turbo 300zx will bolt right in to this setup? I will be using the Silvermine 5 lug hubs with a 5x103mm rotor bolt pattern. I think it works

August 4

Thanks for your reply. I will be running stock 2015 mustang rear brakes which are 11.8" calipers

August 4

I need to convert to 5 lug setup for my front wheels. The rear is already taken care of with the super 8.8 kit. I am heavily leaning towards the Silvermine conversion hubs.

But on to the brakes. I am not planning on tracking the car, but it will be a single turbo LS and need decent stopping power on the street. So I saw there is a conversion to run Toyota brakes. Looks fairly low cost. There are a lot of threads but most of the info is lost or broken links. I did find this link to a page about the swap: https://web.archive.org/web/20140110095234/http://drivendaily.org/s30-toyota-brake-upgrades/

My questions are:

1) is this swap still a decent option in 2021?

2) is the information in the page above still correct and relevant?

3) does this swap clear 15" wheels ( I will be running a spacer)

4) is buying a kit the way to go or is ordering parts from Rockauto better?

Thanks for any input.

Joe

July 28

Thanks man, I appreciate it

July 27

Wow, very cool, thanks. I changed the title so hopefully now it will pass the FB monitor.

July 27

Thanks man. I'm not on FB but hopefully it will sell.

July 26

On 7/22/2021 at 7:41 PM, NewZed said:

Surprised that it hasn't sold. Whitehead is incommunicado so that source is NLA. You might add the other axle if you have it, not sure why it's missing in the picture. Are they included? And a pinion shaft flange, although not as big a deal. Somebody doing a V8 swap might just build a new driveshaft and use the same pattern, instead of swapping flanges.

classiczcars.com has a nice sale forum and gets more traffic, you might post there. No offense to hybridz.org, I'm sure that things will come back some day, but it's pretty slow now.

Everything I have is in the pictures. I did post on classicz as well.

July 26

Just outside of Saint Paul, MN

6 hours ago, EvilC said:

Location?

July 22

Price drop to $900

July 12

I am prepping a 1976 280z for paint. I'm assuming most people separate the sugar scoop from the fender when painting the car and paint both separately? Is there a gasket or anything that sits between them?

Anyone have any experience or pictures where the scoop is welded to the fender? Obviously there would be a chance to warp the metal. But given they are tightly bolted together, curved surfaces, and it's a flanged butt joint, seems like it would be fairly resistant to warping. Seems straightforward to jump around making a lot of tack welds, grind smooth and finish with a skim coat of filler.

But I wanted to get some opinions. Any pictures would be great.

Thanks in advance.

July 8

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/132542-for-sale-z31-nissan-300zx-turbo-lsd-differential-with-finned-cover/

July 6

I am painting the car, I could weld it. Any reason to have the foam there? Otherwise I could try and fit some double sided foam tape.

July 6

Thanks man, excellent information

July 6

It won't be cheap but I will ship.

July 5

I am removing the dash on my 1976 280z. In the instructions I've read online, it says to disconnect the metal cables from the heater control. One was obvious, I used a Philips screwdriver to loosen a screw and the rod slid out. There are other rods and cables that aren't so obvious to me. The end of the rod has an S bend and I can't get it out. There is more than one. Am I going about this wrong?

Does the control mechanism come out with the dash?

July 5

I am breaking down a 1976 280z to prep for media blasting. As I was breaking down the hatch, I noticed that there was a bracket in the lower middle, just above the release button. It's not attached to the outer skin. It almost looks like there was a piece of foam between it and the sheet metal. Can anyone shed some light on this?

July 2

Thanks man. Very helpful. Much appreciated.

July 2

I am breaking down both doors on my 1976 280z as I prepare for media blasting. The first part was this small roller connected to a bracket that was slid inside the outer stainless door trim. There was only one on the passenger door, none on the driver's door:

The other thing I was wondering about is these pieces that were on the outside corners of the doors. I'm sure at one point they were pliable rubber, but now they are rock hard:

Any help identifying these parts is appreciated.

Thanks

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