[280z speaker options- storage compartments, rear hatch, etc]

I am looking to add speakers to my 1976 280z.  Just looking for decent sound, nothing special. Not looking to put speakers in the doors or kick panels.   Also putting an enclosure in the hatch area also out as I don't like that option either for the aesthetics and loss of hatch space.

 

I have found the following options:

 

1) Factory location: 5 1/4 speakers that mount in the rear quarter panel area

 

Pros: no modifications needed.  

Cons: I've read that the sound is terrible.  Need to acquire/fabricate brackets

 

 

2) speaker adapter kit to mount on rear plastic trim that covers tail lights

 

Pros: super easy, cheap

Cons: unknown speaker size, sound quality.  Mounting to the plastic trim piece probably doesn't yield good sound output.  I haven't called this company yet.  https://zparts.com/index.php/product-category/280z-parts/interior-280z-parts/

 

3) mount speakers in storage compartments

 

Pros: not much fabrication?? Large speakers(6x9?).  Quality sound?

Cons: lose storage space

 

 

I think the storage compartment looks like the best option.  Has anyone this and can comment?  What about the other options?

 

Thanks

 

[Rear hatch plastic trim]

Ok, so apparently there is a nut on the backside that somehow I missed.  Problem solved.

[Rear hatch plastic trim]

I am trying to install the large rear plastic trim pieces in the hatch area on my 1976 280z. I am having trouble getting the pieces around the ears that that hatch struts bolt to. Both sides. Are the ears supposed to unbolt? Mine are tack welded in place.  

 

 

[Fresh air / inner fender wire duct]

I have a 1976 280z. Bought it as a shell and I am redoing everything. Under the dash, in the upper kick panel area on both sides it appears there are round openings that have been tack welded or riveted and sealed shut.  

 

 

 

I also have openings to passageways in both inner fenders up by the core support. I ran some fish tape down the passageways and I'm wondering if they connect to these openings that are blocked off. It seemed like they would connect. I would love to potentially use these to run wires through for a cleaner look.  

 

 

Can anyone shed some light on this? Maybe these were fresh air intakes? If so, how were they controlled? Are the block off plates factory or added by a previous owner? If I open them up, will I get a large amount of air coming in while driving at speed?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

[Exposed's 1jz Build]

Excellent work 

[Exposed's 1jz Build]

How did you form that feature?

[Door switch rubber seals]

Are these available anywhere?  If not, what are people doing as a replacement?

 

[What are these firewall holes used for?]

I have a 1976 280z.  I am in the middle of a complete teardown and restomod.  I got the car as a shell.  I am wondering what these 2 holes are for in the firewall?

 

 

I believe the smaller hole above those 2 circled in red is for the hood release cable.

 

Also, what is this plugged hole that leads from the upper firewall behind the dash that goes into the inner cowl is for?

 

 

Thanks!

[Wanted 280z lower door hinge spring]

Bump still looking

[Removed HVAC system. Do I need to block off air inlet?]

Thanks for the valuable insight.  I will definitely try to seal it off from inside 

[Removed HVAC system. Do I need to block off air inlet?]

I removed all the HVAC components from my 1976 280z and have no plans to reinstall.  There is now an open hole where the blower connected to the air inlet that runs from under the cowl to inside the car.  Wondering if I should block this off or not.  At speed, will air be moving into the car or out of the car?  I'm also wondering how much air will be moving.  Does anyone have any experience with this?  I wouldn't mind a little air movement but don't want a lot.

[Wanted 280z lower door hinge spring]

Looking for a spring for a lower door hinge for a 280z.

 

 

[Wiring harness connectors]

Do you happen to have a link to what you bought from Amazon?

[Wiring harness connectors]

Thanks Cal!

[Wiring harness connectors]

Hey,

I am wiring my 280z from scratch.  I removed the original harness from the car and am going to get a Painless chassis kit.  I will be running a Holley standalone engine harness.  

 

I was thinking about getting this version:

https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/10101

 

It's for a GM keyed column and doesn't come with the connectors like the much more expensive Pro kit.  I am assuming I don't even want the GM connectors in the Pro kit anyway, I am hoping to reuse the ones from my Datsun.  

 

Do people have much luck reusing the 45 year old connectors?  I'm assuming the plastic connectors are Datsun specific and aren't widely available for cheap?  Has anyone found a source for the just the metal male/female crimp parts that go inside the plastic connectors?  I'm assuming those are standard parts that can be bought cheaply.

 

 

[Front wiper delete]

Thanks everyone. 

I've never really had an issue with needing to clean bugs off the windshield while driving.

[Front wiper delete]

Thanks guys.  Car is in primer so I could definitely weld the holes shut.  But not sure I want the permanence of that.  Plugs are a good idea but the holes are oval.

 

I wish I could attach the wiper arms without installing the entire wiper assembly, is that possible?

[Front wiper delete]

Has anyone not run front wipers, and if so, did you plug the holes in the cowl?  I won't purposefully drive in the rain, and I plan to put Rain-X on the windshield in case I get caught in the rain.  

I wouldn't mind losing the weight of the wiper motor and assembly, and don't see a reason to keep everything when I'm likely not going to use them at all.  I also have a muscle car that I've had for years and have probably run the wipers twice in the last 10 years.

 

I think it might look funny just leaving the holes in the cowl open.

 

 

Thoughts?

[Yet Another Axle Thread - Chosing the right setup in 2022]

The best option, in my opinion, by far, is the super 8.8 option. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too]

On 6/13/2022 at 2:21 PM, Invincibleextremes said:

Going to point out that jason hit a personal best of 9.88 @ 137.8 with his turbo 4.8 using cheap neon coilovers and his super 8.8 swap kit which has NO issues holding down the power.

 

The second thing worth mentioning is now the latest version of the kit allows moving the wheel back up to 3/4 rearward.

 

This is dependent on what you are willing to do up top to match, i designed and now offer conversion tops that move the shock back if using cheap coilovers like jason did.

 

Using other brands of coilovers you can redrill the shock tower and rotate the camber plate if you like to squeeze a little more.  3/4 is about the limit because after that you run into the sheetmetal.

Can you post pics showing what has changed in the kit that allows the rear wheels to move backward?

 

 

[240z SCCA vintage race car, restoration]

Yes.  The fronts are skinnier and have a more pronounced bend to contour the fender

[240z SCCA vintage race car, restoration]

I just installed mine.  The fronts are obvious and easy to tell which side is which.  Rears are much more subtle.  From my research and fitment, you want the flares oriented with the wider portion towards the front of the car.  Hope that helps.

[Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors]

Great work

[Weld nuts instead of rivnuts for flares]

Thanks guys.  I do have the Marugen flares so they should fit tight

[Weld nuts instead of rivnuts for flares]

My main reason for wanting to weld nuts instead of rivnuts is to have the flares sit flush on the metal.  I am really hoping to not have to use welting.