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Posts posted by fusion

  1. Has anyone powder coated or painted the hatch or door locks?  I am going to paint my chrome/stainless trim black on my 280z but didn't know about the locks, especially the hatch lock, given the fact that it pushes in.



  2. I am preparing to paint my 1976 280z.  I am doing panel alignment and fitment while the body is still in primer so I can make adjustments if necessary.  I am looking for some panel gap numbers from people to get an idea of the ranges.  Even better if you have done your own panel fitment and adjustment.  A maximum and minimum if possible for each spot.  Looking for gap measurements on:


    Fender to hood


    Fender to door


    Door to quarter panel


    Hatch to body




    Thanks in advance



  3. Thanks for the comments.  I do have new wheels/tires for the car.  As far as chassis stiffening, I do have the cage tied into the rear shock towers.  I also have new box tubing frame rails, subframe connectors to the rear subframe, gussets to tie the rear subframe together better, tubing from the back of the tension control mounts to the firewall and tubing from the top of the fender horns back to the firewall.


    Unfortunately I don't have any room inside the engine compartment to add any other tubing to the strut towers.  But this isn't a race car so I feel ok about it.  I might add a removable strut tower brace.


    I did just pick up the T3 300mm front brakes today with the Black Friday deal, so I think the brakes should be good.











    • Like 1
  4. 1 minute ago, AydinZ71 said:

    @fusion nice! Looks good.


    so there is an alarming trend whereby folks “freak out” over using filler. Probably because there are some hack jobs out there with 1” deep spots. I think it’s impractical to attempt a steel repair without SOME kind of filler. Sounds like you are practical guy, and we’re on the same page.

    Thanks man.  Definitely.  

  5. On 11/8/2021 at 11:31 PM, AydinZ71 said:

    Have you performed any metal work yourself? That little area doesn’t look to bad. I bet you could fabricate a replacement with a sheet of 20-gauge steel, hammer+dolly, and MIG welder. It won’t be perfect, but even a replacement section from another car won’t be. You will still need a small amount of filler or glaze prior to paint. Very few people can perform a flawless steel patch in a contour without any filler of any sort (even if just primer). Try hammering out a little piece yourself in a bench and see how she looks! 

    I have done patch panels before.  I could probably make it but not worth the time to me when I can just buy a panel that's already in the perfect shape.  (I did already get a patch and welded it in)


    Also, not sure why anyone would attempt to make a patch without using any filler unless you're working on a DeLorean.

  6. On 11/8/2021 at 8:29 PM, jhm said:

    Just an FYI, depending on how big a patch panel you intend to use...the early year doors have the hole for the door lock knob in a different location than the later year cars.  Not a big deal; nothing that can’t be worked around.  Just wanted to let you know so you aren’t surprised.

    Thanks man, good info.

  7. Thanks for the comments.  I am in the process of building it now.  The drivetrain is done along with most of the body work.  I got the car as a rolling shell and have never driven it.  I just don't have the experience to know what stock parts can really benefit from upgrading.  For example, I don't know if the stock moustache bar or stock front control arms are worth upgrading.


    Points taken on the front brakes.  I'll definitely look to get something better.  I am running 15" wheels so that is a consideration.    I don't have a master cylinder picked out yet.   I was looking at the Toyota Tacoma upgrade that some others have done.


    I already need to buy a new rear sway bar since my stock one that goes in front of the diff won't fit with the super 8.8.  I'll probably get the ST rear kit.


    As far as seats, I will be running 2000 Viper seats.  They fit and look great after some minor floor pan surgery.


    I will definitely be doing all the chassis and engine tuning once I get the car up and running.



    • Like 1
  8. Car is a 1976 280z.  100% street car.  In the middle of building it.  Current drivetrain is a single turbo 5.3, t56 magnum, Ford super 8.8 rear diff with 2015 mustang rear disc brakes.  6 point roll bar. BC coilovers on all 4 corners.   All poly bushings.

    I won't be tracking the car but it should have a lot of power and I do want it to be stable at speed and be able to put the power to the pavement.


    Trying to figure out the best things to upgrade suspension/brakes wise.  Don't want to upgrade just for the sake of upgrading, but where it really makes a difference for street driving.  This is my first Datsun so I'm not that familiar with the best upgrades.


    Currently stock:

    Moustache bar

    Rear drop mounts/dogbone

    Front and rear control arms

    Front and rear sway bars

    Front brakes 

    Front tension rods

    Steering rack


    Tentative plans:

    Upgrade stock front brakes with Toyota calipers and solid rotors

    Silvermine electric power steering


    Would love input from people who have valuable insight.





  9. My 1976 280z driver's door has a unpullable dent at the top right where where the mirror bolts to it.  It's in an extremely tight location and I don't think I can pound it out.  Wondering if anyone has a rusty door that they could cut out a patch panel out of.  I *think* any year 240-280 should work but not 100% sure.


  10. I am in the early stages of fitting my rear ZG flares on my 280z.  I have read through a lot of install threads, most of which have broken picture links.  My understanding is the best way to decide how high up to mount the flares is to remove the spring from my BC racing coilover to allow the shock to compress all the way to the bump stop.  


    However, when I did that, I can only compress the shock up so far until the rear wheel/tire (275-50-r15) runs into the factory wheel arch.  There is still a ways to go before the bump stop bottoms out.  But it's extremely hard to measure the distance remaining.  It's a chicken-and-egg scenario.  I can't determine where to make my cut line until I can compress the wheel/tire all the way, but I can't do that without cutting the metal first.


    I must be missing something, any thoughts?

  11. I am going to be mounting my flares soon and need to get the rivnuts.  I have read a bunch of threads but was looking for some feedback.  



    Pros: won't rust.  Easy to crimp down.  Easy to drill out if needed.

    Cons: weak threads that can strip.  Galvanic corrosion to steel body?


    Zinc plated steel

    Pros: strong.  Somewhat easy to crimp down.  Decent rust resistance? No galvanic corrosion? Able to be tack welded to body.

    Cons: not enough rust resistance?



    Pros: strong.  Won't rust.  Able to be tack welded to body

    Cons: hard to crimp down?  Galvanic corrosion? Hard to drill out if needed.




  12. I like to use a low power setting on my MIG and make a couple of small tacks next to, but not on, the hole.  This acts as a heat sink.  Then I do small tacks butting up to the heatsink and move subsequent tacks across the hole until it's filled in.  If this method blows through the metal then it needs to be cut out anyways.

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