RUZN

One time the Switch actually shorted to itself on mine. Due to moister. I opened up the colom and just had to pry loose those little fingers that contact the points to make lights go on. brakes not working though... odd... but not unusual to have corroded back sockets or loose springs in those sockets.

Just something to try =-) Cause if its not reading Airflow you aint getting those RPM's up =-) easy to put back tooriginal place after if it dosent solve the issue yes =-)

Even Better since there is some squeezing room down there. A Twin Turbo Manifold would be excellenate!! Cause I mean 300zxt turbos are easy to find up here in Canada with the winters everyone crashes em driving like idiots =-) . I mean if we are going to update these things lets make a few Twins to =-)

Well I got a 1982 Turbo ECU 280zxt and a 1981 N/A 280 ECU if you want them... what do you need? I have the whole 1981 280zx N/A Car and engine to lol harness everything.. lol

Yeah but rotories Suck for Longevity =-( SR20 at least is widely avaliable and theres tons of upgrades or just good Stock with mild tuning. Ca18 ehh... why not Sr20 then lol.. just do the SR20 or a Cheap KA24DE and add Turbo. Last forever and take a good beating

Yeah I wish I could erase thsoe other post and have it all in one sorry!!! LOL.. Yeah Dedicated to Z's love em!

Yeah I Saw your way and was going to do that but as you said Mine are so rusty I think its part of the Downpipe now sooo.. hehe.. was cool when I got it. I was like damn that reaaaallly looks close to the stock size.... Looked around hardware store for an hour for the right size Bolt to thread the O2 in couldnt find one so gave up came home and oh look it fits LOL..

I'll check what the ohms are supposed to be on AFM but you can open the Little Black door on it. Inside you'll see a Potentiometer, theres a small Brass (gold colour) screw on the upper left side that has a Square type press that locks the big gear from moving. you can loosen the screw *WHILE HOLDING THE GEAR FIRMLY* with your other finger. I think Back is more fuel and forward is lean. you can try this as well just move it like 3 teeth either way but mark is position is the glue on screw is not there. This solved a drive isssue on my 81 280zx one day. Some reason it just didnt liek the mixture anymore... other than that I didnt see you mention plugs. check em and Spray wire with mist of water see if there is arcing. hmm... other than that if your TPS is working and all vacuums are good then not to sure........ if you can see down Sparkplug hols if its super shiney down in there you might have coolant going into cylinders.. could do a leak down but I doubt that is the problem..... maybe Electrical connector is corroded on TPS or Battery post or Alternator. Check voltage from alternator if you take negative off while car is running and it dies its alty. can be done without volt tester.. My 2 cents... lol

Yeah followed instructions. I recently got a O2 sensor with 3 Pins and it was compatible with the stock Flange on the 280zxt downpipe SCORE!! hehe I also changed the TPS originally i had one from a 300zxtt which has two pigtails and cant be matched so I got one out of a 300zx N/A =-) Working great now! Just waiting on my FPR and intercooler now! ty though for reply

Altrom (Supplier) Manufacturer (Ultra-8) Altrom Part Number 25000301 Fits Stock 280zxt Jpipe and its the 3 Pin type you need for 87 ECU 300zxt Just thought I'd throw that info out there make it easier for people rather than welding a Nut or changing their stock Downpipe if they cant afford it. Mounted mine at it seems to be running great Cured up my black smoke over fueling lol. and Wire it to: Black wire to original Black wire lead from 280zxt Harness White wire to Air regulator or Pin 34 shared by MAF Swap White Wire #2 to Pin 115

Well it seems to be functioning. I drove around seems good no real bad boggin plugs were black before cleaned them a bit. Checked voltage to white wire of O2 sensor and it would bounce from 1 to 2 then up to 12 then back to 1 for a bit so I guess thats the heated element working so seems good. idles great and great power.. full writeup soon PART NUMBER FOR the O2 Sensor: Altrom Universal (3 Prong 22mm Diameter Nut and fits Stock 280zxt Downpipe) 25000301 Cost about $80 Canadian so about $74 US New Zirconia (dual Layered)

Hey would you look at that!! I found a o2 sensor with the exact same thread as the 280zxt Downpipe. No need to modify or weld a nut on! TADA.. Ill post part number after I finish wiring it in.. But apparently there is some universal 300zxt 1987 ECU O2 sensors out there with the 22mm Nut! yay! oh and three Wired =-) for the heater element.

Ok so I got my O2 Sensor in. As reminder from my billions of Post Sorry people I swapped my 280zxt ECU with the 300zxt ECU everything is hooked up and running Great except for the Pig Rich Situation soooooooo from my Diagrams it says the O2 sensor has: Black (wire) to GROUND G/W (I presure is Grey/White?) to PIN 34 Yellow (wire) to PIN 115 I hope someone can respond before I get back lol.. oops bold!! But yeah thats what it looks like on my Diagram for the VG30 1987 300zxt ECU so seems ok? Two Hot one Ground?

Well if its Pump then yeah Wiring issue. Perhaps check first the grounds although I think that would cause it to not turn on at all. Uhm but if you go to my Album I have the wiring Diagrams for the 300zx so theres a Realy. That could be stuck Open, and theres a Modual I beleive one sec... looks at Diag ok here you go FPR (fuel pump relay) Black on one side to Body Ground (so any problems just take new wire toa ground.) Yellow/Black to Pin 20 (Ecu labeled on the connectors) Blue/White to that Fuse you pull and to Fuel pump itself Black on other side to PIN 108 and to Fuel pump itself. So If that helps ya there you go. Has to be something is leaving the ECU on or soemthing to that effect. Cause if ignition is truely off then the Pump should have no Power. another thing is Take out that FUSE 10A for the Fuel Pump. then go to battery with it connected. Buy a Ohm - Volt meter. and check voltage hold it there for at least a minute and see how fast VOltage drops Example: If you read say 12.85V but after a Minute your close to 12v or under 12V then something is drawing power. Ie then you might want to look at the ignition perhaps its stuck open. Or the Main Relay which go to pins 9 (red wire), 35 (Black White), and 2 that are brown that join and go to the fuseable link box by the battery in the engine bay. Something has to be fugged up and On.. hehe. I would have to go through Testing proceedure in online manuals to see if any of those are supposed to be active while key is off.. Going out for Breakfast I'll try to look for you in a bit. But basically if you start checking Draw on those wires and if you pull one the draw Stops then you've found your culprit. Its an Open somewhere

If you want I can show you my Cable throttle linkage it was so friggin easy to build. I used the Stock armature at the firewall and just made a loop with Moutainbike Brake Cable and used a Wire crimp to hold loop together then ran "X" amount of inches to the throttle body to which I added a Maxima throttle cable holder thingy lol witha nut and lock washer used the TB springs for tension and vwala throttle cable suppper easy and the test pound of the brake cable was liek 160Pounds which I doubt I'll ever step on the gas with all my weight LOL I just use ankle pressure and its max'd

Did you check your sparkplug Wires.. sometimes hot or cold they will ground out. Sometimes you cant even see it on the outside of the rubber. Easy way take a spray bottle with Water and spray while car is running this wil also find shorts in engine bay =-).. just a thought sometimes its the simple things

Uhm do the N/A 300zx ECU Swap or Maxima ECU same stuff someone on the S130 Posted how to do it on N/A I did it on my Turbo So far so good other than I need the Damn different O2 for my 1987 300zxt ECU lol but thats no biggie! on the good run I did have the friggin car flew!! till I fouled plugs cause im running PIG RICH without that O2!! lol but for people who say it makes no difference.. pfft They need to try it first..

Well thats why they were there I mean its all Metric so the guy was like "Fug this Crap" and tossed it down there lol

yeah from what I see the Center B wire goes to 24 Pin and looks to be a ground shares other commons along way to Pin 24. Yellow wire goes to Pin 115 and G/W I think it says connects not only to Air regulator Power but Pin 34 So I Imagine I would just wire it like this.. Black (middle wire) to pin 24 Yellow (right wire) to pin 115 G/W (left wire) to pin 34 and I should be good..

Hey for your "was there a system that used a smaller turbo to spin a bigger" Yes I believe so. When I was building up my 1992 Eagle Talon TSi there was an article in one of the Tuner Mags that showed umm *looks through mags* ah here it is AMS was building a 4G63 obviously hvy mod'd but it had a built Sequential turbo system that used a smaller turbo to obviously speed up the larger. Without the small turbo the engine produced just over 1000HP but it was for a build competition so they didnt have time to really get all the specs in for the smaller turbo but they have a Mounted pic of it it Modified Mag where they won the overall challenge and beat out all the Nissan Engines and Hot rodder ones. So yeah they are out there for Gasoline. This one ran 35psi on the larger turbo alone. Also! Didnt an older 280zxt used by some racer use TT on a L6 cause I see you can buy Manifolds for the TT version of a L6 still

<-- (engine front) E II E I EE I E II E Put wrench on Crank pulley bolt. Turn till #1 cylinder valves closed. Cam lobes will be pointing up when closed. #1: Adjust only 1,3,7,8,9, and 11 using feeler guage measure the clearence between the cam lobe and the valve rocker. Valve clearance should be (hot) intake--(3,8,11) 0.010in or 0.25mm), exhaust --(1,7,9) 0.012 (0.30mm) If its not to spec loosen locking nut and turn pivot nut till the guage starts to move and its slightly crimped. By that I mean like not binded in so you cant get it out lol. #2: turn crankshaft again so #1 lobe points down. and adjust 2,4,5,6,10 and 12. As you did with first set of valves. #3: reinstall Cover and boom start her up! err then check your compression again...

Valves arent bad to set up at all. two nuts start at front work your way back crank a it do the next. I can send the specific way to do it if you want. dosent take much time valve cover off easy liek 5 mins set TDC and go! TDC just turn crank by hand well socket on crank and a nice long breaker bar =-) what is it again like .035 or somethign guys? I'll look send me a PM if you need info

I was thinking that only cause when like you gas it and it actually gets to good RPM obviously the plugs are hotter and shedding some of that newly formed buildup you knwo and then when they cool down again they arent fireing proper cause its building up again. So yeah I'll get that O2 anyway but also do you know anything about how you would Wire up the 3 pin O2.. I think I posted wiring diags on my Album of 300zxt but from what I can see it looks liek they just get looped into the black wire near ecu but before any pins?

So the fuel pump is one when the car is off? Dose your Battery Die. Its not the Power attenna trying to go up or down? Get a NEW ONE ANYWAY!!! newer is better