RUZN

Looks pretty nice, nice big turbo. pretty kewl Mod

hey might seem dumb but how'd you get your pics on this page I tried just shows a damn X!! lol

OK so trying to mess with TPS I get great throttle responce now. Everythign I expected maybe could have 5% more juice but this happens.. When I come to a stop say a red light. I go to drive again and its liek putputputputput and blows a bit of black smoke out back liek totally unburnt fuel for about 8 seconds then starts to go but cough and sputters the whole way about a block then starts to drive normal again.. Whats happening.. like how dose that happen after 5 mins of perfect stop and go.. is it because I unhook O2, or am I not getting enough Air? if so why? Also If I turn it off and then back on its liek that never happened lol I have pics of my entire Setup on my album. heres a list of converted parts. 1987 Turbo 300zxt ECU 1987 Turbo 300zxt 1986 TPS 300zx N/A 1985 VG30 MAF (6 pin ABCDEF all hooked up proper) 1991 60mm Throttle Body (bored intake to 65mm totally sealed to TB) 1982 Turbo 280zxt intake Manifold (ported to gasket to head & head port 32.5mm) 1987 DIZZY 1982 Stock Downpipe with stock O2 sensor in (tried disconnecting and connecting same issue happens) Again I followed Afshins post to the T so from my knowledge im running extremely rich obviously causing the "Bog" effect right? which would be that black puffs coming from exhaust. If I wide open it after a couple seconds I get my throttle back but it still coughs and sputters sooo is it just the TPS not exactly where it needs to be or whats my next course of action. I know that I need the different O2 sensor Bernarrd said I could run without which is fine either way I trust the word of Bernarrd sooo if he sees this what do you think man! also should I rotate the Distrubutor cap am I firing to late? Only other thing I can think of is when I disconnected the Injector pigtails I misplaced where they go but on wiring Diagram it says : #1: is Green with White strip then 2 and 3 and green with black strips then 456 are the green with yellow stripes. so possibly ones not in the right order? I have 1 on 1 and the two black strips in 2 and 3 and the yellows on the 456. now will it matter where they are if 456 are all yellow? will I have to trace it back to ECU (GAWD PLEASE NO!!) Cause I idle just fine so not sure whats up.. Cause if injectors were on in wrong spot wouldnt it not idle properly Any info or things to do next let me know Also as I should should I turn the Distributor I'm thinking Buy a timing light tomorrow LOL advice please cause as I said I got awesome responce huge gogo for like 5-10 mins then all of a sudden its liek piiiig rich

OK so trying to mess with TPS I get great throttle responce now. Everythign I expected maybe could have 5% more juice but this happens.. When I come to a stop say a red light. I go to drive again and its liek putputputputput and blows a bit of black smoke out back liek totally unburnt fuel for about 8 seconds then starts to go but cough and sputters the whole way about a block then starts to drive normal again.. Whats happening.. like how dose that happen after 5 mins of perfect stop and go.. is it because I unhook O2, or am I not getting enough Air? if so why? I have pics of my entire Setup on my album. heres a list of converted parts. 1987 Turbo 300zxt ECU 1987 Turbo 300zxt 1986 TPS 300zx N/A 1985 VG30 MAF (6 pin ABCDEF all hooked up proper) 1991 60mm Throttle Body (bored intake to 65mm totally sealed to TB) 1982 Turbo 280zxt intake Manifold (ported to gasket to head & head port) 1987 DIZZY 1982 Stock Downpipe with stock O2 sensor in (tried disconnecting and connecting same issue happens) Again I folloed Afshins post to the T so from my knowledge im running extremely rich obviously causing thr Bog effect right? which would be that black puffs coming from exhaust. If I wide open it after a couple seconds I get my throttle back but it still coughs and sputters sooo is it just the TPS not exactly where it needs to be or whats my next course of action. I know that I need the different O2 sensor Bernarrd said I could run without which is fine either way I trust the word of Bernarrd sooo if he sees this what do you think man! also should I rotate the Distrubutor cap am I firing to late? Only other thing I can think of is when I disconnected the Injector pigtails I misplaced where they go but on wiring Diagram it says : #1: is Green with White strip then 2 and 3 and green with black strips then 456 are the green with yellow stripes. so possibly ones not in the right order? I have 1 on 1 and the two black strips in 2 and 3 and the yellows on the 456. now will it matter where they are if 456 are all yellow? will I have to trace it back to ECU (GAWD PLEASE NO!!) Cause I idle just fine so not sure whats up.. Any info or things to do next let me know

yeah I mean the hoses should hold it there no prob less your rally caring or something

eww... took a grouses (small chicken like wild bird) head off with that same car going to the parents cabin left a small triangular dent in the body kit lol...

The above post or. Take off wheel so you have a bit more room support engine with a jack underneith or a long Metal bar with a chain around engine. move the brake and fuel lines away from frame take a Grinder wheel with a couple discs. Cut it out completely so it never rust again and take some good thick sheet metal cut a similar have U and tack weld it on or if you have no welder place U piece there and take SHeet metal Bolts and run em through (pilot hole with a drill bit first but smaller of course so sheet metal screws hold) then cover with fiberglass then anti rust then paint then ROCKGUARD!! hehe

I have mine kicking around cause I just swapped to MAF 300zxt ECU but you'll have to pay shipping from Canada hehe

Oh this could turn into what you found in your car.... So My first Z my 1981 280zx N/A in the back driver fender inbetween the panels I noticed rust forming. When I cut it open I found a Tshirt with Japanese writing!!!. I figure the guy got hot put his shirt down then it was permanently sealed within the two panels!! Causing rust... hey I should give that to Nissan and say hey you owe me a New CAR!!!!

theres a Post I think on here or Zdriver that shows a Bracket that can be made even a Machinist can make the bracket and it works. I have one sitting my my backyard 1991 z32tt but am going to use my stock n/a 225mm 5 speed 280zx one. for Now! hehe. Look around you can find one

Well that AFM dosent look liek stock for one but yeah theres a Retainer that goes over that that is supposed to have 3 holes in AFM for three small bolts that hold it to that part you have in Pic one.

ok kewl ty again very much. I got the other TPS today off a 300zx n/a that was in the junkyard with one connector so hooked that up.. Ran awesome for a bit then kinda sputtered so I figure I should set it again or yeah the timing thing. blowing a bit of black smoke RAW fuel so.... hehe.. more adjustments obviously yes?

Awesome TY for Reply. Weird thing when I used the other Pigtail that hangs to the side of the tps (300zxtt 1991) I got wicked accelleration but then after about 3 seconds it would go pop and die to idle and do a accell decell accell decell unless you just barely pressed the gas. so Im looking at wiring diag again.. But I think Ill just go grab another TPS off a VG30 tomorrow that dosent have that extra pigtail. easiest bet again ty much for reply oh also! I dont have a timing light as Im waiting to go into schoo now for Mechanics so im not at my shop.. anyway to set it without or should I just leave where it is now? I think it has to be reset to 24btc? for the z31ecu? no?

Listed of changed items: 3" exhaust pipe to 3"in out Magnaflow Exhaust K&N filter cone 1985 Maxima VG30 MAF (6pin) 300zxtt TPS 1992 60MM Throttle Body (custom cable throttle) Ported intake on Manifold and Head as well as 60mm port for TB adaption 1987 300zxt Turbo 1987 300zxt ECU Stock 280zxt O2Sensor (which I hear needs to be replaced for this conversion) Stock Jpipe for now waiting on intercooler Stock Turbo 280zxt injectors stock fuel pump ok so I set TPS to be 0ohms at closed TB and at about half it dose its infinity thing so if I am correct that means it is working. So if I just use about say 20% throttle its great its got a sweatspot at about 65% to 75% throttle but if I JAM ON IT! I get not much accel it feels the same as 75% throttle if not more laggy. Sounds like tons of air is going in but no GOGO.. Now at 75% throttle I can hit 140kmh and still climbing and at 100% it still accelerates but its not liek it was before using stock ecu. so What could be the issue? the 1985 Maxima MAF? is it set for lower air ratio? is it the 280zxt O2 sensor with 1 wire and it needs the 3 wire 300zxt O2 to read higher TPS and intake readings? I cant figure it out. turbo is nice and loud sucking tons of exhaust and pushig tons of air so the turbo isnt screwed from the sounds of it.. there was only minimal shaft play like MINIMAL. soooo not sure whats up. Pics on my album.. maybe you guys can help me out ty I have gotten no replaies in the S130 section for days

OK so tested the TPS seems good. at all the way back its 0ohms and as you move it forward it goes to infinate ohms. I beleive thats correct now.. I did the 300zxecu swap. everything seems fine so Im thinking it might be the MAF is reading to much air? heres what I have so far. 60mm Throttle Body K&N filter 1985 Maxima MAF from a VG30 non turbo Customed a Throttle Cable Idle set at 850-900rpm Stock turbo injectors 3" straight exhaust pipe to Magnaflow performance Muffler 3"in 3" out Stock 280zxt O2 sensor (waiting on 300zxt sensor with 3 pins) no intercooler as of yet its on its way VIA snail Mail Stock Jpipe 1987 300zxt Turbo *wastegate end* modified to fit stock 280zxt Jpipe (longer bolts) 1987 Turbo 300zxt ECU wiring done correctly. Now when I punch it its slow to get up to speed then gradually gets there but its like I hear tons of turbo raming air in but no GOGO.. so could the K&N filter be to close to MAF? its in my photo album I took the filter put it right onto MAF the the Stock pipe to turbo. so Am I getting to much airflow? Not Enough Fuel? Idles awesome revs in idle awesome. Figured I set TPS right (through its siet to maximum back) but thats how I got it to rev the highest. Now if I go 75% throttle its great smooth accel but 100% and its like stays at 75% boost hits 8psi but nothing liek it was when it was stock ECU280zxt so I figure either the 85MAF maxim cant read turbo'D airflow or hwtas your guys take on it?

ok so I completed my 300zxt ECU swap into my 280zxt. Now it Says to change out the o2 sensor to the 3-wire sensor. So before I got buy a new sensor, where do the other two wires go

ok so I did the ECU swap on my 280zxt to a 300zxt ECU I got the Car to Idle around 850-900RPM in trying to adjust the TPS (Throttle position Sensor the small nut broke.. AHHH lol but i'll get that out.) Now before the bolt broke I could gas fairly well we will say 65% throttle but at 100% it would just pop and sound like the engine died but it would just drop to idle till I let off throttle to about 65%.. thus I was speculating TPS still needs to be adjusted. So im gonna go out there with Ohm meter and get it to its 0 to infinity. But could it be because im using a 300zxtt TPS I have another TPS so should I try that one without the extra Pigtail? What dose the other Pigtail do on a 300zxtt TPS? is it for 100% throttle?

Well only 2 but I have only owned Nissans since I could drive LOL... 1981 280zx (build Date April 30th) my birthday 1981 280zxt (title says 82 Build date Nov 1981) *Modding this one as we type* The 81 is up for parts of sale if anyone is interested. But Frotn floor pans and bit of frame is giving way so needs a Resto. Engine was good and strong and still is. So if you know a Body man Keep her alive.. She brought me a good 9 years of memories!

Ok so I finished my 280zxt ECU swap to the 300zxt. Now I changed all the pigtails to 300zxt ones because they were better condition. So it got late and I forgot to lable which ones went where. SO I looked at the wiring diagram I have and #1 is Easy because its the only WHITE GREEN one lol.. so Question. #1: G/W G #2: G/B G #3: G/B G #4: G/Y G #5: G/Y G #6: G/y G So.... dose it matter which G/Y you put to which injector? or G/B to #2 or #3.. Cause I switch them around to test idle difference and nothing major happened soooo.. Confused... Cause Also I have to Follow Afshins Post and it says to Switch #2 and #5 after you do the ECU swap sooo.... I think I have it right now but is there a deffinate way other than tracking all the way from Injector plug to ECU Ports?