RUZN

Made a New Tray 12x12" fits my bat juuust right after the edges where banged up shaving 2" soo also put some sheet metal to the firewall rust hole I cut out. Now to get the wheel well looking normal again... So I fired her up after the 300zxt ECU conversion.. sound slike vacuum leak somewhere not usre if its just the sound of the air going in the air filter to turbo though. Cause after playing with the Idle Screw ( uhm what I now call my idle screw LOL *small allen key screw with 10mm nut on it at TB) it idles just fine. See I wonder if its a Vacuum leak because its ot liek a normal Vac leak.. It would die on me instead of running in high rev .. so kinda thinking its just air sound going into turbo Cause liek I said after I adjusted throttle plate it ideles just fine... Now to set TPS cause I got no go juice past 25% throttle lol

I got it Mount a Few Very large 5000PSI Air tanks in the back of the trunk and passenger seat. then have the ECU time it so they release 100PSI burst at all times you need Boost! And then apply a Compression type device in each wheel Driveshaft and moving part so it can continuously fill the tanks back to pressure.......... althought with all that pressure building up you might not move at all...... none the less 5000psi tanks use em till they are dry!! 100psi burts think about it!.. Plastered to your seat!! your pistons would dissapear but the PSI would keep you truckin!!

Deep Midnight Blue with a Hint of Silver specs.. =-) or a Deep midnight two tone black thus the car will transform in the shadows to pure black hood body and flares but in the sun it will shine with Black and Blue!

yep do all of the above.. hehe.. cleaning for sure. and of course verify like we all said thats its not just from the seals or pan seals ect ect. Cause even though you smeel it on exhaust if you dont see it from exhaust the wind under car could be whipping droplets onto the exhaust..

yeah cut a good foot outta the metal from firewall to wheel well well now I can run bigger tires lol just going to square it all off make it easy

yeah well I have the crap to repair it sooooooo... hehe I was replacing the fenders with my 81 280zx anyway so might as well just get of more rust while im in there.

So its seems that something turned to shall we say Ash/Rust. I Was going to start the car up and see if the 300zxt ECU swap worked when I looked a little closer at my rusty Battery Tray, (all I wanted to do was clean up the ground... *sigh* lol ) Soooo.. Bat tray totally toast. there was about 15% left. Under it was a Mass of Rust some type of furry thing that literally turned to Rusty/Dust, along with a battery hole cover and someones old wrench!! =-) almost disintagrated to.... so I figured I'd chop the bat tray out and see the damage.... well now I can see into my interior.. =-) who needs A/C!! and I can see my Wheel =-) so Now If I sit in the passenger seat I can not only make sure the engine is running, the tire isnt flat, and the battery is still there.. But I can cool myself off =-).... Welp thnx Mr. Squirrel, your rotting body and old Battery acid has made me have to Fab up a New Firewall section and Bat tray for the next 4 hours LOL

Sounds like you have a Starter Problem. if theirs power to the Starter then theres a couple things..... 1: The impeller is sticking, sometimes rolling it forwards or backwards will free it up. 2: the solenoid has a Dead spot, meaning it dosent get its juice off and on. So you can either open the starter up clean off contacts on the bolts and studs Check ground. other than that its prolly the Starter solenoid. kits I think might be hard to find but I found that the KA24DE 240sx starter solenoid is closly similar and you can change the armatures out if they dont match exactly but the rest of the starter is pretty much the same. Oh one thing. When you go to start your dash lights dont go out do they? That would be a bad ground or bad battery.

Got a Question here before I start this Beast... lol... Finished the 300zxt ECU swap the TB 65mm ect ect. Now this is what I have hooked up. I have the EGR on but blocked off with a flat gasket covering holes. I have the AAC on but again holes plugged I have the Three Vacuum ports on closest to the TB but was going to U them into eachother other than one to the Fuel Pressure Reg. I have the VCM taken out completely. Also wth are the two vacuum things on the right side of a turbo engine near the front? Are they for A/C vacuum? A/C is gone to. Basically Which ones do I need still plugged into something . Obviously FPR needs Vac. Turbo Vac's on PCV is on bottom. ummmm yeah so what do I need on.. lol... Ill take a Pic here and post in a Sec

hehe Drain cock is kinda Hiding I think on the Left bottom but even easier... just pull the lower hose off lol then its drains real fast!!!! =-) eh looking in manual it says middle but hey Lower hose is so fast. =-)

Are you just adding oil because of the Pressure guage? Or are you checking thr Dip stick to make sure its not just a "Wiggy" oil pressure Sensor. Dont over fill!!! lol... Clarify and respond. Also check underneith see if the car has oil under engine, maybe the oil pan bolt is loose, maybe an oil line to turbo has come loose, ect ect ect. Rear main seal is a easy one to spot, would be right between back of engine and tranny on bottom the small crack. but yeah if all else fails. Shampoo outside of engine so its clean enough to tell where its coming from. if your blowing smoke out tailpipe then it Piston rings or piston itself. Check all that first. and Do a Compression Test. Testers are liek $45

Funny thing.. lol.. On my 1981 280zx N/A I was having issues with the AFM. SO i put in backwards on purpose and It idled liek a dream but of course no throttle responce lol..

So the Z's New 1987 300zxt ECU is in and safely tucked in behind the stock coverplate after a Bit of cutting. Wiring tape up and weatherproof. Thinking Ill take my front panels off my 81zx since they are better condition. Battery Tray is a Rotting Pile of Crap prolly the only real Rusty thing on this Z. Should I build one is there a kit? anyone anyone? OH to Clarify: After you Cut 33 Pin from ECU connector it just remains unactive? Cause in Afshins post it is and In my Diag I made up in Colour its just left with no connection afterwards sooo... anyone done this before and Remember? Turbo conversion: 300zxt Turbo and compressor mounted to 280zxt Downpipe. you need to remove the 2 (double sided) Studs (best way to, place two nuts on it and tighten then reverse lower nut). Then went to hardware store and got some 60mm long Metric bolts (25 mill is unthreaded at top half figured if they bust then I can at least get the back end off and visegrip the broken end) and those will go into the two holes allowing you to mount the 280zxt Downpipe or at least the old flange configuration without to much fussing. um next gotta mount a new bolt for the Zirc Type O2 or Titania whatever one it was you have to convert to. then add the now new 2 Coolant lines coming from the turbo (300zxt version) to the ones from the thermostat housing in a loop. Also thinking im gonna cut out a Bit more of the Heat sheild cause it was tough fishing a tool through those holes provided on the factory setup. Basically make it easy as possible to Dissasemble this thing if stuff has to be replaced next time lol. PICS coming!

hmm pic dosent seem to show go to this link My Album http://forums.hybridz.org/album.php?albumid=36&pictureid=205

Yeah putting some pics of befores and Afters on My album. Also I found a way to not use a Spacer for the Throttle Body so noone really needs one if they switch to Cable linkage using simple Brake Cable and I just ground the end down a bit to fit into the cable linkage hole. Might be able to use VG30 throttle cable to looks to be almost long enough. Going to Fab up something with detailed Stats for how to mount cable to existing Firewall puller arm. goign back outside to take pics of wiring and where things are wired to.