randy 77zt

my buddies have harleys so i got a new yamaha fz1 and rejetted it and put a pipe on it .130 hp at the wheel.plus its reliable and gets good gas mileage.supposed to be good for a mid 10 1/4 but i dont think i will try that.110 in second gear is enough.the z is for road racing tracks.

i just thought the french were dicks until i read an article in a newspaper that said we lost 52000+ troops trying to get the germans out of france.then i was pissed.if this is how they show some gratitude than maybe we should spray some left over agent orange from vietnam on thier vineyards.california wine is better anyway.if we dropped all the bombs we dropped on the vietnam jungle on baghdad we wouldnt have to go there-there wouldnt be anything left.

try a company called lokar.they make billit stuuf for the street rod market.they have kit with steel braided cables.

20 bt 3 rotor website with picture goto http://www.corksport.com there is a company called kennedy engineered products that has a mazda rotary/borg t5 bellhousing.i have a sand rail magazine that has a 1000 lb sand rail with a 20bt dynoed at 560 hp at the wheels with 12psi boost.problem with mazda engines is that the have a little pump that puts crankcase oil in the gas so you have to check the oil every 500 miles.the guys that race these things take the pump off and put synthetic 2 stroke oil in the gas.this improves rotor seal life.20 bt is still shorter than nissan l28 motor.to get this swap in daily driver form i figure about 6 to 8 grand.

you need to get a 75 or 76 tank.the efi tanks have baffles around the fuel pickups to control fuel in tank during cornering.carbs dont need this since fuel is stored in carb bowls.my car will cut out on turn 3 at thill with less than 1/4tnk.the efi tanks also have a large(11mm) out put hose nipple.

i am saving up for a 3 rotor 20b turbo-i need lots of power to keep myself amused.

mike -good luck.i am trying to find some kind of new job myself becuase it hard to get promoted when you work on cars for a living.can you say dead end job?i have almost paid off my house and am thinking of looking for some commercial rental property to buy out of california.or an rv campground in baja mexico.

this website is not about flaming.it is about original ideas .a z owner has to be original because there is no bolt on parts support like hondu's,mustangs.so get your tig welder out and get working.then show is the dyno run dry and with ice water.the import drag racers use ice chests with rv water pumps to cool the ic.they repack the ice every run.

i have a stage 5 t3/60-1 t4 i am installing this week running on stock 81zxt injection except for lucas injectors.i will post about this.car will be used for daily driver/road course car.

i ordered the act 400ft/lb street clutch from that ptuning website tuesday(3-11) night.they sent me an email that they were out of stock.after figuring out they are on the east coast i sent them an email asking them to have it shipped direct from act.they did and i got the clutch kit on friday(3-14).guess what -its built off of an oem daiken core.the friction material has been changed by exedy.the spring in the pressure plate probably has been replaced.car will be running next friday.

ford sucks?i am a tech at a ford dealer for a living.if you want to know about my credentials i have been wrenching full time for 18 years.i have a california smog license,a 2 year college degree in electronics,ase certified master auto technician.difference between ford 4 chevy-both are 4" bore.its where the distributor is at.5.0 ford is a 3" stroke.350 chevy is a 3.5" stroke.experience in the auto trade is gained only by hard work .you are paid on a flat rate time system.if you screw up you are woking for free.

when my daiken clutch slipped on the dyno it was running at 4500 rpm with about 12 psi boost.car was chained down.the dyno load was much more than what the car weighs-like towing a trailer up a steep hill on boost.this much more of a load then the car running on the road.

twm has efi throttle bodies to bolt on su carb manifolds.the oem manifold suffers from a small throttle body.some people run the throtlle bodies that replace side draft webers -6 throttles&6 injectors.big $.

if you install one of those nice hitech clutches make sure and have your flywheel machined and drive normal(easy ) for about 4 or 500 miles .the extra $30 is nothing after spending big bucks for good stuff.

i just ordered the act 400ft/lb street clutch -hopefully it will work.i dont drag race-i run road courses.but i want the clutch to hold on the dyno.my trans is out for bearing work.i have ran an oem 240 mm daiken unit for years and have been happy with it except for over torqueing it on the dyno once(i got hot and slipped) and on a 5000rpm drop at sac raceway.but for the money the daiken unit was worth it-$120.i got it at one of those 1 day clutch shops.never use reman stuff from kragens-etc.daiken was oem supplier for nissan.

i have used an oem 240mm daiken for years in my 77/81zxt .it only slipped on a 5000 rpm clutch drop at sac raceway and a high load dyno run at 4500 rpm and 13 psi boost.the 300zxtt is a 250mm unit-the 10mm isnt worth the work..the oem z clutch is 225 mm.get a 2+2 flywheel for 240mm clutch.i am switching to a full disc act clutch rated at 400 ft/lb.dont use a puck clutch on the street-it wears a big groove in the flywheel where the pucks run and grabs-like an on/off switch.

easy-but since i work as a ford dealer tech i have lots of practice.we pull um in 20 minutes.

usually when you get a used trans it has a bearing howl from running low on oil.there is a small seal in speedo gear drive that leaks.usually if you repair your own trans and isolate what part is worn nissan parts arent that expensive.but if you open a trans up and its missing teeth on the countershaft cluster its toast.somtimes i take 2 trans and make 1 with some new bearings and seals.

the wc t5(2.97 1st gear)is a good trans .it lasts when used in mustang drag racing.problem is it wasnt produced in a production ford car except for a certain year cobra.so if you get one at your local pick&pull you will end up with a trans that probably has a 3.35 1st.you can get kits to change oem t5 to wc t5 put it is basically a complete trans rebuild.i have a 82 zxt bell housing and tried to attach it to a mustang t5-no go .the front bearing carrier is slighlty larger.but a slight turn down on a lathe ,and a 10"mustang clutch disc on a 240 mm flywheel(i am guessing)and the correct pilot bearing should get it together.i think i remember the input splines being 1" by 10 splines or something.

i seem to remember a certain mercedes prototype car that headed straight up when air got under the front.about 5 years ago or so.mercedes hasnt been back since.a fine example of aero design.

keep trying pic&pull and get a supercharger from a early 90's tbird sc.then use the money you saved on buying a kit to buy a good mig welder,14" chop saw ,and a medium sized drill press.z cars are about fab it your self.

i know there are some sharp computor guys that are members of hybrid z.what is needed is a small program that would only allow people on your outlook express contact list so no spam could get in.i am getting 100+ emails a day.i am tired of deleting this junk.

good parts car.the rear diff should be tight since it was hooked to an auto trans.if i was building a drag car i would run auto trans with turbo-works like cookies & milk.i got a parts zxt to build my 77.if it has been sitting long it will need new injectors or have the injectirs flushed and calibration checked.try coast fuel injection in san jose for injection clean & flow test.i usually prefer to buy new .the lucas injectors i run were $38 each new.

i have a 81 zxt in my 77 but its been in there for 6 years and i dont remember.i went to pick&pull and got pieces of harness for the plugs and made adaptors by soldering wires -both harnesses were not modified.car passes smog in california.

i havent had time to run my car on the track lately -i am getting depressed from lack of speed.turbo car on track=no problem.i run union 76 nascar 110 with no intercooler.i run a stock 81 zxt in a 77z with 14 lbs boost=injectors are lucas disc type.o2 sensor runs at .85-rich enough.i hit about 125 or 130 at thill and 110 going into turn 10.dont bother with street tires on track-i tried that.a waste of money.just get the kumho's.the last well too-even ran to la and back on them.just make sure you have brakes you can torture.i floor it about 10' before the apex and dont really wind up the motor-you use the boost and let it pull.i run a 3.7 lsd with a 83 trans for close ratios.with a big turbo it might be harder to drive but i dont know about this since my motor is stock-constipated with small turbo.i have a stage 5 t3/60-1 t4 i will put on while tranny is out-but i might need new efi system .need to go into turn 1 at thill at about 155.