randy 77zt

i have installed & fabricated hitches for rvs.5th wheel hitch tracks better if it is installed slightly ahead of rear axle of truck -about 2".if your are using a standard pull trailer make sure heavy stuff (tools & fluids) are loaded in front.tounge weight should be 10% of trailer weight.try using some of the antisway/equalizer bars like they use on big house trailers.

i just ordered ALL new weather stripping for my 77z at nissan dealer.most of it shows in stock at various parts depots all over usa.the parts guy that i work is doing a dealer search on the rest.my car needs a paint job.it has been a central ca car all its life.the weather stripping is a cracked and shrunken from 100+ degree summers.if you get it for all the windows and the window felt it comes in about 20 pieces.i figured i had better buy it now and get the last stuff in stock.

you need a programmable efi system.when the efi fires the injector its the milliseconds of ON time and the flow rate of the injector itself that controls the amount of fuel.if you installed bigger injectors and the stock ecm opened them for the same amount of time that stock injectors were opened you would be running rich at idle.playing around with stock efi is a waste of time -you will never get it 100% correct even if you do mods to it.i drive late model cars all day at work and i expect perfect driveability from my own cars.blowing extra fuel out the tail pipe because of poor programming doesnt cut it.my z is not a garage queen.it gets used for a work car and gets used at the race track.but since i work on new cars i expect a car that can be used for any trips i want 24 hours a day.

has any of the members that have built turbo engines had large injectors that could not have the injection pulse width short enough for a clean idle?i am building up a new engine and can get a set of bosch 0-280-150-041.these were on mercedes 6.9 and also my mercury 2.5 v6 efi 260 hp outboard motor on my boat.flow rate by my research is 480cc/min.the boat engine is 2 stroke plus has oil in gas .the pulse width at 8000 cant be very long for a 2 stroke -it fires every stroke.while i am not a tree hugger /evromentalist type i see no need for excess fuel out of my car.

you could probably get the trans-axle into a z but how good do you weld and how much shop equipment do you have?the zo6 will probably get much better gas milage than a home built small block .some of the street rod parts companys have harnesses and alternator brackits for these motors.its true you could build more hp but a properly installed z06 would be a good daily driver.

the turbo is done-its a stage 5 turbine machined to fit oem nissan housing.waste gate hole was machined slightly larger too.compressor is a 60-1 hifi.i am going to get the exhaust manifold extrude honed .the head will be done by the guy that ports the heads for the toyota atlantic cars.if the housing was machined close to the turbine it wont bypass too much exhaust gas.going for a new engine by next spring.engine being built is back-up engine that came from pick&pull.it loooks like a brand new nissan reman motor.its very clean.

i have a 3" mandrel bent system under my 77.it only takes 2 90's .i put the muffler under the cat heat shield .any good muffler shop can do it .it bolts to stock zxt head pipe flange.when its smog test time i bolt on system with a cat converter.i used a 3" magnaflow muffler -it has no baffles.its quiet and sounds good.

i really dont want to weld on stock exhaust manifold because car will be used for a daily driver and i am afraid of cracking.the turbo bolts on with tight clearence on compressor.main point to question is stage 3 or stage 5 turbine?track rpms run from 3000 to 6500.i am looking for 350 hp at the wheels on pump gas.i run race gas on track for motor insurence

the body lift makes truck easier to work on.make sure you have some kind of heat shielding or jet hot coating on that crossover pipe.

turn the truck exhaust manifolds around and put turbo in front.

change the thermostat.the ford thermostat opens at a lower temp as it ages.it is a 192 degree unit.it is going to be winter soon anyway so you might as well set it up now.you will get better fuel mileage with new thermostat.also use dvom on intake air temp sensor but i forget the specs.if it reads open circuit you know its junk.clean the throttle body.some time i cure smog test failures by changing thermostat.if you have a good scanner you can read your data(water temps,intake air temps) as you drive.

rebello build a 3.1l street engine with su's bored to 50mm.they have more power than my stock 81 zxt motor.rev good and idle smooth.but anything from rebello is not cheap.i have ran at thunderhill against another z with this setup.

i might be getting some rear diffs from 2002 irs ford explorers .they are having a slight whining but would not be heard in v8 z.ring gear is 8.8"ratio is 3.55 but gears and lsd are cheap for 8.8.housing looks like it will bolt to mustache bar after 2 holes are drilled in it.all of fords new suv are irs.

all horsepower is not the same.if you have a 500 hp dodge viper and a 500 hp sr20det in a 2600 lb car the viper will smoke it out of a stop light by 3 car lengths.why?its called foot pounds of torque.if you arent ready(get caught with your boost not up )your dead.go out and test drive a z06 vette-many times you dont even need to downshift in these cars.for a beeter understanding ride a 125cc 2 stroke dirt bike and then ride a 600cc four stroke dirt bike.i ride a 600 and i weigh 165lbs. iam building a new motor for my 77 z and am wondering if i will like it when i am done.with the stock zxt engine i run in my 77 i can floor it at 1500 rpm in 4th gear and it pulls with no stumble like a v8.best example of violent torque is the darius moble-close to 600.a 4 cylinder will never make that much.

i am talking about exhaust turbine-stage 3 or stage 5?compressor side is a 60-1.stock zxt turrbine housing is being machined for turbine.i figured some of you guys have tried different turbos.who is a member of the turbo of the month club?i have another engine on a stand i can rebuild.and 2 more p90 heads and 2 more exhaust manifolds.thinking about getting an sba loan for an extrude hone machine-they want too much money and i cant see how you can get into 100% of a zxt exhaust manifoldwill be hitting p&p looking for a diesel crank this weekend.

try some kumho or hoosier road race tire and warm them up-they stick like glue.run about 20 psi.i run these tires on road race tracks.

put a 20bt 3 rotor mazda turbo in.big hp in small package plus it likes to rev .

its a bolt in.if you can get an sds other efi system and dont waste your time with old stock stuff.i have a stock 81zxt in my 77 with factory a/c.runs good.

i have a turbo for daily driver.on the plus side id fuel mileage-24 or 25 on trips.but if i had NO motor parts to start with i would go v8.but i have lots of l28et parts so i am not switching yet.

i put a 94 lt1 into a 66 nova.with a/c.best investment was gm manual-it will help you wire it and you will understand the trouble codes when it is done.for brackits i got the system from street& performance.this is polished billit street rod stuff-but is the best.best throttle cables & dipsticks come from lokar.engine has d-shaped exhaust port.sanderson & street & performance make shorty headers but i dont know about fit in a z.if you want a bigger cam try tpis-they have done a lot of work on lt1.

i have hit 145 but my car is on the low side with a full road race suspension and an air dam.at 145 front felt light.was cruising 120 before i floored it.make sure you have the toe in set both front & rear.any amount of toe out will make the car wander.i do suspension & brake work for a living so i align my own car.a fresh set of z speed rated tires is not a bad idea .

make sure the fuel pressure is up at high revs.i made a mechanical test gauge with a pressure gauge from a bearing supply house and some fittings from hardware store.this is dangerous in terms of possable leaks but i had to know pressure.i have a 77 with 81zxt power.at boost the pressure runs uo to 65 psi.if you have it cutting out after 1/2 throttle or so my problems have been cured by swapping ecm.been through 3 in 80,000 miles.if you got a used engine that wasnt run for a long time have the injectors flow tested & cleaned.i put in new injectors when i did my swap.

about 1.5 years ago i got this deal on a t3/t4 turbo from a sandrail supply place in pheonix.the compressor turned out to be a 60-1 hi-fi and the turbine was smaller than oem datsun 280zxt.so i sent it out to have the datsun exhaust housing machined and a different turbine wheel installed.car is a daily driver but is used at thunderhill 3 times a year.i am switching to sds,porting head,extrude honed exhaust manifold,65 mm throttle body,down pipe,intercooler.i want it to dyno at 330 to 350 at the wheels on a 95 degree day on pump gas .when i go to the track i run 10 gallons of union 110.last time i went to the track it was 110 degrees but no pinging on 110 gas.at the track lowest rpm is about 3500,high 6500.

i work as a ford tech.that oem taurus relay box also controle the fuel pump and ac compressor clutch and is controled by the fuel injection ecm.for just a fan control i would skip it.if you need a really heavy duty relay i would get a battery isolater relay from an rv shop.bosch makes some of their little cube relays with 40a comtacts.if you get an old fan and its drawing alot of amps the motor might be worn .in 98 to 99 the mustang gt had a tsb with a fan/ radaitor upgrade but i only got 2 or 3 of the fans and 1 radaitor.most of the late model cars the fans are controled by the ecm and dont run after car gets to a speed where there is airflow with out running the fans.the ac systems have high side swithces to protect the system and the fans keep the high side pressures down.what ever you do dont use those zip tie things through the radiator core on a electric fan-the vibration makes the ties saw into the radiator core tubes.

a cell phone and a AAA gold towing card.my car rides too rough to carry tools.