randy 77zt

ford uses 2 intake runners per cylinder on 3.8 and 4.2 v6-f150,windstars,v6 mustangs.plus the cobra dohc 4.6 v8.the runners have throttle blades on a common shaft.operated by a vacuem diaphram and a solonoid controlled by ecm.

to get 270 hp at rear wheels with a na engine you would have no bottem end or midrange torque.i have a basic stock 81 zxt motor in my 77.i can drive around thunderhill race track in 4th gear and still run a good lap-the turbo makes lots of torque.there is a certain quality about lots of torque-an engine that only makes hp at high rpm like a small na motor insnt fun to drive on street.if you line up a 270 hp l28 against a 270 hp v8 the v8 will get a car length or 2 on start line.

stuffing an inline 6 into a 4cyl engine bay would be difficult because of engine length.it would be easier to stuff a 5.0 ford in there.a late model 240 sx with nissan v6 would be a good car and nissan should have built this combo anyway.some of the used japanese motor placea have nissan cima engine-dohc v6 with 1 turbo but turbo would have to be relocated i think-its where steering shaft would be.see sds website-they own a turbo 240sx for a shop car.look under projects.

what kind of turbos you gonna run?small t3s or t25 exhaust/t3 hybrid?it should be able to drive nice and make 500 hp on boost.

when i out turbo engine in my 77 i was on a budget so i got a new 240mm daiken kit from one of those 1 day clutch places for $130.the only time i have had a problem with it is when i side stepped at sac raceway at 5000 rpm-it slipped and overheated about 60ft out .when it cooled off it worked again and i still havent changed it even with about 15 days of laguna/sears point/thunderhill drivers schools-unless you are a real animal a good stock(daiken-the oem builder for datsun) clutch is probably all most people need.avoid that rebuilt stuff though.

here is a number for you-Del West Engineering 28128 west livingston valencia ca 91355 phone 661-295-5700-much of real race car parts are not well known companys.this company makes valves for nascar,f1,lemans prototype cars.nismo is just a reseller.best to by direct if possable.

i am a ford dealer tech-i am not looking forward to the possability of rice-boy types buying these cars-too much warrenty work. when i find that nitrous bottle in the trunk and the guy has a blown clutch-then i get the warrenty administrater out there to check it out.then you get warrenty canceled-that is how a dealer tech gets out of changing clutch and only getting paid 3.4 hours to do it.trust me-i find every way can to keep from doing warrenty work-i hate working part of the day for free.the flat rate times for this stuff are a joke.

i have one of those ic's but i havent installed yet-have to get a friend's project car done first.what surprises me about it is how well inlet/outlet lines up with holes in z core support.by looking at it yuo know it will flow more than starion-2.5 in hoses.probably not as good as isuzu npr.but try finding an npr unit-i have called every truck wrecker in northrn ca.i thought of renting a npr truck and throwing some hose in place of ic.but i usually get busted on this stuff.i dont worry about experimenting with saab ic cause i only paid $25 for it at pic&pull,i have combed the yards for a good ic for a year.i have a cylinder head shop by work that has a flow bench-i could take saab ic and have it flowed.right now i am watching pick&pull for a early 90's ford tbird sc supercharger and ic unit-i will probably pay about $100 for that stuff.

some states have emmissions testing only-no equipment check like ca.if you did a very good job of setting up your motor it would pass.

the heads from ford are off of late mdel ford explorer 5.0 engines-they can be found in a 5.o ford magazine.

even though i am a ford dealer tech i have never got a chance to see picture of aussie crossflow 6-looks real nice.i like inline 6 cause they run so smooth.

good belly pan material is aluminum road signs-light and tough.have used them to make skid plates for dirt bikes.

i run a design products kit in rear-it uses a 84 300 zx rear rotor.billit caliper brackit and willwood dynalite single caliper.no e brake in car.

a willwood superlite 2 caliper will bolt to z spindle-maybe that would work on toy rotor.

i have been getting race car engineering at local book store.lots of really cool stuff but mostly good high tech reading.i did download a sample efi program from a company called datafast that is really easy to use -i might email them about efi system.about going 200 mph-i know a place where there is 30 miles of open dry lake-land is federal blm.no permit needed.i hit 90 mph on my dirt bike out there.

my 77 has working factory ac .the blower motor went out last summer and i replaced ot with one from my parts car but it doesnt blow as hard.ac temp is 38 to 40.i heard that a 280 zx motor bolts in and blows harder.i am going to get 1 at pick&pull and try it.summer days are usually 92 to 105 around here.tommorrow is supposed to hit 103.

a couple of years ago i was climbing around in one of those used japanese engine places in bay area.i found a nissan fj20 turbo engine with trans & tranfer case.these were in some kind i japan only car.this is a 2.0 liter 4 cyl .could probably be made to work with some kind of front wheel drive steering spindles & struts(honda,subaru).this would work in a light early 70-73 z.best place for ideas on parts is by looking at cars at pic&pull.i looked for 2 hours for skyline engine-no luck.found a nissan cima engine and a 1.6 liter 5 valve /cyl toyota motor.if you want to get a japanese motor that make big power get a 3 rotor mazda turbo-500 hp on only 12 psi boost.i found a place where you can get a t56 trans adaptor for it.

john-what spring rates are you running-i run 225 in front and 250 in rear.are you running track tires -like kumho or hoosier?get some disc brakes in rear-less maintenance.

i dont run race pads on street-i change pads when i change tires.i run some pads from napa store on street.they are wearing well and wheels stay clean,the willwood polymatrix d pads in back dust the wheels bad and squeek like crazy but there is not much line pressure on rear-rear will lock up if i jab brakes.does any body know of another application of pad that fits toy caliper?i have a catalog with pictures of pads and last model rx7 looks about the same.i dont change pads on rear brakes for street.

i use my car for driver school /open track days at laguna seca,sears point& thunderhill when i can afford to go.having a turbo motor makes brakes even more important.this use wastes brake parts-the stock brakes were faded at laguna after first lap with old na motor.then a buddy gave me some toy calipers for front(the early calipers for oem rotors) and i installed some drilled rotors and some custom carbotech pads with hawk blue compound lining.in the rear i installed a dp racing kit with 84 300 zx rear rotors ,willwood dynalite single calipers and billit caliper brackits.this set up worked well -no problems except for pads wearing rotors out fast.needed rotors & pads for another track event -old set up wore out.got 5 days use out plus 2 years road use but i didnt run track pads on street .rotors & track pads wore out so i got undrilled oem style 77 z rotors and some porterfield race pads.now it doesnt work as good and the rotors warp and pad material is cracked-fluid boiled in front.now i am going to try 84 300 zx rotor/88 toy v6 4x4 set up with drilled rotors and some more hawk blue pads plus maybe getting rotors cryo treated.to you guys that are building project cars-you never know how a car will work till you run hard on a good race track.some of my parts laying around were ideas that didnt work.goto track,drive car ,change car at home go back to track-spend money.

the steering knuckles are 510 parts-i dont have them on my car because of wide tires needing more leverage to turn at slow speeds.i havent felt i needed them but that can be a matter of personal preference.

your pull is from mismatched caster or camber angles.has your car been in a wreck?nissan built car to reset toe in only-caster & camber were built non adjustable.you are going to have to fabricate or use some aftermarkit parts to align it.zx arent popular cars for racing so there isnt as much suspension goodies for them.

most of the big v8 cars in open road races like silver state classic run 4 spds and 2.3 rear gears.most transmissions the od gears cant take the abuse.4th gear is 1 to1 on most trans-no load is sent through counter shaft gear cluster-so there is no load on trans.plus depending on length there is a maximum shaft speed for drive shaft but on a z the drive shaft is so short it probably doesnt matter.with a t56 in a v8 z top speed will probably be hit in 5th because of wind drag.most od gears are in tail shaft housing with reverse but i havent rebuilt a t56 so i dont know how they are layed out.

i have a 77z/81zxt for daily driver.engine is stock except for 3" exhaust and k&n air filter and slightly larger lucas injectors.it runs low 14s.hardest part was wiring injection.everything else bolted in .best bet is to run sds injection and get rid of old nissan parts

you could get a blow-off valve to keep turbine speed up on stick shift.if i was drag race i would get a 3.9 diff from zx na and run auto trans.best bet is to put zx motor into a 70-72 z and loose lots of weight.