randy 77zt

the boost control tees in between waste gate actuator and pressure ports.it works by dumping some air pressure off of actuator.i return the air into rubber air intake line between afm and turbo.geta good boost gauge and set boost by flooring it in 4th on freeway.if it goes high get out of it and readjust knob.

sean-i run a 1" pipe plug from orchard supply.i heard lots of bad stories about tep.for boost i run one of those $45 plastic regulaters fron turbonetics.that rice boy flashy electronic stuff is a BIG waste of money.save your money for sds system and some big injecttors.the motor in my car has seen 18 psi for short periods of time-like .5 sec.if you are drag racing and turn up boost with out intercooler run race gas at drag strip.you can get away with 12 psi boost with union 110 nascar gas.that is what i run at laguna for 1/2 hour track time.ditch the cat and have a 3" mandrel bent exhaust system custom built.the head pipe in front of cat is 3".mine bolts on to stock head pipe cat flange.hook a dvom to 02 sensor and go for test drive-you should see .8 to .9 vac under boost or you are lean and fuel system is not keeping up.get some magna core wires.these have to be ordered direct from magnacore.real race teams like roush use them on thier race cars.dont listen to the rice boys.they dont know anything but how to run up daddys visa on flashy **** that doesnt work.

shaving heads on l28 means shimming the cam towers -not good.the later 280zx motors had flat top pistons.if i hadf a fleet of different z cars i would have a car with a high compression efi l28 motor - with sds and big throttle body and big cam-a revver

most shops charge by hour because of tie down and gauge hook up time.some time they give a break on 2nd 0r 3rd hour.if you do this you should have an attack plan for your car to maximize you hp gain-like jet changes or timing changes.some will attach pyrometers on header runners for feul mixture readings.i have been in a dyno room testing engines on dyno stand-dont be surprised iif you engine comes up short.many combinations of cams/heads/intake sound like good ideas but dont make at dyno day.i have seen a cheavy 350 that was supposed to make 400 hp top out at 280!you can figure on $400 to $500 for 4 hours.but you get a years worth of tuning done quickly and correctly -no guess work-no rejetting carb and test driving for a week.

i run 12" springs-they work fine.i use 225 in front and 250 in rear.carrera makes 12" spring too -the sprint car guys use them.

no replacement for displacement!i have seen these apart at work.it is very compact for a v10 except for width-probably only 6 or 8 inches longer.not to heavy-they didnt spare any extra metal anywhere.the spark plugs are in intake manifold so if you got one in a z you could change plugs in 20 minutes.it would need better cams though.cam lobes are p[ressed on hollow shaft.i would rather have 5.4 dohc lincoln navagator engine with cobra cams.

weight savings?a ford 302 with aluminum heads is lighter than l28t and can be movved back farther in chassis.a guy i talked to who installed a cheavy in to 240z said he ended up with 100lbs more on rear wheels.i know from personnal experience i can carry a 302 ford block.i cant carry a l28 block.i just run a l28t in basically stock form cause i get parts cheap from local pick&pull.

my car drives better with less negative camber on street-but since i relocated front control arm holes my least amount of negative camber with the gc camber plates is -1.5.setting up a very stable freeway flier is much different than setting up car for road race tracks.if i was setting a car up for a open highway race i would probably only run .5 negative camber some toe in and more caster.an auto cross car or a road course car is a twitchy animal to drive on street.

way back in early 80s bmw had a 1500cc f1 motor that made a little over 1000 hp-proof if you feed enough fuel and air the hp keeps climbing.the problem with something built like this is that it doesnt make power untill 4000 or 5000 rpm and then it switches on like the powerband on a 125cc dirt bike.by then that high torque v8 got 3 car lengths on you.but it is nice to hear of some body that has the courage and creativity + money to experiment.good luck with the turbo motor-maybe all the turbo guys should kick in a contribution and share in the newly gained info.

i was out at blackrock dry lake riding my old honda 87 xr 600 dirt bike this weekend.glad to say this old bike out ran a brand new honda cr250.speedo said 84mph but surface was soft/loose.went too check out a landmrk on other end of lake-it was 20 miles across.land speed record was set on this lake.some time i am going to trailer my z out there and try it out.

to auxilary-the msa catalog is where i got urathane bushings but not much else.you cant go wrong with the illumina's-these are a maintanence item on an old car.for best shock price try shox.com.they have sway bars too.if you want try some replacement style lowering springs but most people goto coil overs & camber plates .ground control is your best bet since you live in north ca.the one thing i screwed up on when is doing a lot of work on suspension and trying to run high performance street tires.that doesnt work.i put coil overs and camber plates on when i should have bought track tires and tried to run them with oem type eibach lowering springs.i would have got results sooner .now i run used tires on street and run kumho track tires at track.next big problem will be brakes.

i had a suspension techniques 1 1/8 front bar but took it off and changed to a 15/16 front bar from a junkyard-car understeered down turn 6 at sears point.rear bar is 7/8 suspension techniques.bar size depends on spring selection .it is better to run stiffer springs and less sway bar up to a certain point.a car that feels like it handles flat on street might not be set up correctly when you start comparing it by running with other cars on a race track-been there .

a friend of mine put some new panasports and track tires on his z race car with willwood brakes and hit the track-guess what-wheels now look like crap.the brake dust when on race track is so hot it embeds itself in wheel finish.also those high tech street radials suck on a race track-the get hot and turn to grease.i gave up on those and run used tires on street and kumho tires on track.if you use the car on a road race track get some beater wheels and race tires.

mercury marine built complete zr1 engine .heads were designed by cosworth.engines were built at merc plant in oklahoma and bolted onto pallets and sent to bowling green.

owen-the electronic gizmo is a speed sensor-you can use it to drive an autometer or other electronic speedo and eliminate speedo cable.most electronic speedos have a calibrate button that yuo push at the start of a measured mile and push again at end.if you are using a t56 it wont have a speedo cable drive anyway.

no way-a 4.6 has aluminun heads,plastic intake,aluminum pan and no accessory brackets.the auto trans is a little heavy though.

the marine drive stuff unbolts .marine cams make good mild street cams.the engines are usually built better than a street car engine because boats have only one speed and sometimes are running high rpm for extended periods of time.if the cylinders bores arent rusted it should be fine.try to get a copy of the bill that came from machine shop where it was built.if you do some net surfing on old boat sites you might be able to sell the marine drive and exhaust manifolds for as much as you bought the engine for.if it turns over smooth with a breaker bar on the crank i would buy it.it will probably make a good street engine with a good manifold,carb,& headers.

do not buy cheap camber plates-i have been there and done that.you will get a rattle in strut tower that will never go away.most people run coil overs on street just to get car real low.i have found that if my car is to low at track it understeers at the limit.i would not put coil overs and camber plates on a street only car-it causes rattles and a rough ride.try following a late model porsche or bmw up a bumpy curvy road.watch the wheel travel-wheels move freely to follow road and stay in grip.do you have a designed purpose for your car?i have the track stuff on my car because i like to go to open track and drivers schools at laguna and thunderhill.as a daily driver the car is rough .i got rid off cheap camber plates in back and will be installing adjustable control arms.i run the rear coil overs with a 240 z upper rubber mount.

mike i need some rear arms like simon's.i got rid of rude noises from back of car but cannot set up for track.i dont adjust at track-car is set up on hunter 4 wheel rack the night before.right now rear toe is off a bit cause car was slammed together from the lsd rear diff fiasco-it steers on freeway patches that are common around here.i offered simon $500 us dollars to make me some but he said he was to busy-the mark of an honest man.please post picture when done with rear arms.the rear arms would also be excellent on a car set up with replacement type lowering springs instead of coil overs-car could finally be aligned correctly.having a z that rear steers keeps you on your toes though.my alignment is critical also because my car is driven a lot-commute to work 56 miles a day at 75 to 90 mph.i got my a/c output down to 34 degrees though.just did my spring a/c tune up-pump it out with reclaim machine and refill with correct amount-lost 6 oz in a year.let me know when rear is done-need arms for shasta run.first day is at thunderhill.a 3+ mile road course with a 4000 ft front straight.i run 130 mph into turn 1.

when is summit going to feature a v8 z in thier catalog?then put the same car in the import catalog.

i have not read the jrt z swap book but i do have the efi chevy swap manual and have ordered small parts from jtr.no problems with service-always fast response.i used the book to install a 87 305 tpi into 84 el camino.the book was well worth the money in problem solving hints and gm part numbers.if you have eveer been to a gm or ford parts counter and you need a part but dont know what car it was on you will be greeted by a blank stare-having a part # is much better.

i would use a compression union-a brass fitting from hard ware store.

i just put a lsd rear in my car.i used ford 75-140 synthetic rear axle oil but no friction modifier.it makes a whining noise on low speed turns-i might try some ford friction modifier.does anybody know what nissan used for oem fill?

for those people that have the darius video on your hard drive if you watch the engine pics you will see a blow off valve.

i put my car on rack at work and pull trans in 1/2 hour.the nissan trans is easy to work on but if you dont have trans experience it is best to take it to a shop that does manual trans.