AydinZ71

Updates!! So as I dug into the SCCA car, i noticed quite a bit of rust. The guy who sold it to me was not honest about it, and it would be very naive if he didnt know about it. Someone used what looks to be silicone filler to hide the rust-through holes on the hatch and wheel wells. I have spent the past two months cutting and welding-in new sheet metal and replacement panels. I have about another month or two to go. Originally, i wanted to convert the car into a road & track machine. looking at the SCCA Class "E" rules, it seems like the car was set up for competitive racing and is class compliant. It seems like a real shame to remove or modify so many design elements that make it a compliant race car. As a result, i decided I was going to remove all the rust and make some other necessary mechanical improvements, then sell her. If anyone is interested, I have documented all the work on IG @240z_restomod . I will post some pictures here in case some don't user IG. I don't use facebook's platform myself (too much politics). In another insane development, I am getting back my original 240z! I kept in touch with the guy who bought it 5 years ago, and threw him the crazy idea of me buying it back now that I have a garage again and significant improvements in life stability (i moved across country for a job when I sold the car originally). I sold the car for $5,500, and buying it back for $10,500. The increase factors in about $3,000 in improvements the new owner made, and the crazy appreciation we are experiencing. Here is a video of the car as it is now if yall are interested!

Oh! Well that does change things... I have found a local rear shop that said they will install the center section for me and check the “backlash” (whatever that is). From what I’m reading, the z31 3.9 r200 longnose I have should already have the 12mm bolt holes To the ring gear, so that is one less thing to worry about. Reading that OBX write up just really turned me off. It seemed way more complicated for the limited experience I have. If I can just bolt-in the carrier without disassembling it, I’m in. Part of my anxiety is that I don’t have a lift, and every time I have changed my diff (4), it’s a huge PITA. Literally would rather change an L-series with tranny already mounted, than do another 80lb diff swap on my back. I just want something to work Day 1 and not require me to remove it again. I have busted one r200 before, so I know these things do break.

this is really helpful! Thank you $2200 is not cheap, but when the motor is only $2500, it’s not too bad all-in!

So I read through the write up, and it’s way over my head. I just don’t have enough experience with rear ends to confidently do this, so I think I’m going to pass... all the talk about preloading got me lost. I have changed several rears, including the r200 swap in a 240z, but this seems more complicated. I just searched “OBX r200” on eBay and found several options to choose from. There are Nismo units available as well. I guess I’m going to have to look at swapping a complete short nose LSD instead... PS: thank you for the assistance!

OBX helical looks affordable online! Can you please tell me more about the washer swap? It is going into a long jose r200 3.9 from a Z31

Haha, I like that line up! I’m trying to keep 300lbs if torque to the ground. I just negotiated the return of my L28et!! Super excited and trying to work on gaining some traction. Owner over the last 5 years put 15x9’s in the back, but it’s still an open diff primarily street. Canyon roads at low speed but steep acceleration. I’m not racing through the turns just enjoying the G’s.

Ahhh! Thanks for the feedback guys! I thought the clutch LSD was he way to go, but it sounds like some folks like the helical? Helical's are more plentiful on eBay, often with shipping included. il take a look at your recommendations!!

Looking into replacing my r200 center section after looking at all the options. What do you guys think of this? Curious if it is legit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/264258301302

Hey bud! Thanks for the referral here. Have you looked into how you will manage/run the vq37? I’m really interested in doing the same swap, but I’m anxious about the electronic control of the VVL and engine management.

Any update on the build?

Thanks for the tip!

Understood. I have experience managing ignition and fuel (timing and quantity). I have experience using independent sensors to perform those two functions (and tossing those that come with the engine). However, I do not have any experience managing variable valve timing, or any other active electro-mechanical actuation that needs to take place, beyond fuel and ignition. Question was for the group, if anyone had any direct experience with the Ferarri F136 here. Information online is sparse but I'm still looking. For example, you could not swap a BMW N54 engine, toss the harness, and manage fully independently with a generic EFI system. Many mechanical aspects of the engine are electronically actuated by the BMW ECU (or aftermarket equivalent) which go beyond just ignition timing and fuel. I believe electronic valve actuation also needs to be managed, which i don't have experience with. PS: thank you for the reply

Hey guys! I am hot on this trail. I am shocked at how inexpensive the long block can be had for a 4.2L F136 engine can be on Ebay. Especially when my desired option (rb26dett) is running $5-6k at the moment. Does anyone know if these engines can be managed with a fully independent EFI, or if some part of the mechanical operation must be managed by a Ferarri ECU (such as VVT)? Here is my assessment: PRO 1) these engines sounds GREAT!!! 2) Being a ferarri engine, I am assuming the engineering is impecable, and weight and racing ability has been taken into account. Don't have any direct knowledge though CON 1) parts will be expensive or will need to be fabricated 2) mounts will need to be fabricated. I have some practice with a MIG welder now, so I feel confident on this one.

Ok. I think I have an idea of what to do next time. I have read some people using acetone or laquer thinner to remove the phosphoric acid. I think this might be a better choice, since acetone will not leave a residue, and should remove the acid. Il give it a try next time! i know you can’t just leave the acid on there. It will turn to a white powdery salt of phosphate, and interfere with adhesion.

it sounds like a bad idea to me too... what should I do? I metal needs to be etched and treated for the minor rust in the sanding scratches that are not accessible. I still dont seem to have a solution. I did call POR 15 (not a 2k epoxy), and they said the flash rust is normal and their product is intended to go right over it. I suppose the fundamental issue at hand is this: its impossible to completely degrease bare metal and leave zero film, while still preventing flash or surface rust of some kind. I mean, its kind of an oxy moron isnt it. Bare, degreased metal rusts almost immediately with my 50% humidity. PS: Shitty datsun steel doesnt help

Fascinating! So applying epoxy primer over the "flash rust" is OK? I'm using 2k epoxy primer from Speedokote. Seems to have great reviews, and has gone on easy. Time will tell. I been using both Phosphoric acid products since I cant get all the nooks and crannies. Some of the deeper scratches are also hard to de-scale without removing metal (which is already super thin).

I have both rust mort and por 15 metal prep. They both say to rinse the product off after a time. I’m confused... when I follow the instructions I immediately get surface rust from the water before I apply primer. Is this normal? It seems you would want to prevent re-rusting the surface with water?

Anyone know of a good body shop in Southern California? I have a hatch that needs some metal straightening. Your help is greatly appreciated!

gotcha. So I shouldn’t use my existing home as a core? I was assuming they would be cutting and welding the existing yoke onto the ujoints of my choice. Il take a look at those part numbers thank you!

Not to hijack my own OP (but not totally unrelated), how about the driveshaft? On my old setup, I would routinely destroy the driveshaft @ 300lbs torque on the L28et. If I remember right, it was a 280z unit I would grab from junkyards for the r200 swapped into my 71’. Eventually just got fed up and had a truck shop install a U-joint assembly that was much heavier but lived forever. I think it was a “spicer” joint? This was at least 15 years ago. Given my list of potential engines, I know I will need a custom unit. If I keep my r200, it will need the 4-bolt pattern on the rear and adapt the front spline to whatever tranny will work with the swapped engine. given the SCCA status of the car, I would prefer an aluminum unit since I’m addicted to quick response. Apologies again for being a little clueless. It’s been at least 10 years since I even looked at my old powertrain setup. any thoughts?

I have a local shop that says they will do it for $150 bucks. I might just take the diff and carrier unit with me to them. If i could speak to you more about checking "backlash", i might have more confidence doing it myself. I may be misunderstanding your directions, but do I need a press for the bearings and a quality caliper for measurement? if so, i have neither at the moment :/ I have certainly installed and removed my fair share of R200's on S30's. PITA without a lift, but i can manage.

I recently did a TON of reading on the various types of LSD's. It looks like the "clutch" type is the most aggressive to prevent wheel spin when you are on/off the gas repeatedly. That seems to be the reason it is favored by the drifters. If i understand correctly, the helical come second. it is in the family of "permanent" LSD's, but is more aggressive than a viscous unit. So much to learn.

What do you think of this unit? https://www.ebay.com/i/233389417734?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=233389417734&targetid=934800884536&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031107&poi=&campaignid=10763469106&mkgroupid=109143657034&rlsatarget=pla-934800884536&abcId=9300385&merchantid=6296724&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpM_cxOSb6wIVxx-tBh3YtAITEAQYBSABEgKRAPD_BwE

I like that Idea! I will get a hold of them and ask them to quote. I like how well thought out the stuff on their website is, but like most CA suppliers they are super expensive. If these were made in Houston, I am certain they would be 30% cheaper. It could also be that competition is dwindling due to low sales volume.

I appreciate that! Very helpful! I do see them on eBay often. They seem to be anywhere from 1 way, 1.5, and even 2 way clutch LSD’s? how would I replace my current diff center section? Machine shop?