AydinZ71

I turbocharged a stock bottom end L24 and L28. The L24 I blew due to detonation. Pistons cracked, and I was only running 8psi. the L28, also running 8psi, ran for about a year before the rings gave out and I lost compression and oil. i don’t recommend it... it leads to an unreliable short-lived engine. You really need to get the turbo pistons in there and lower the CR if you want it to survive. From what I remember, the turbo pistons have the rings lower to help keep them cooler. I can’t recall the precise reason, but the stock NA rings just don’t last long running boost. Obviously, you have the option to go custom forged pistons as well. as a comparison, I put in an stock L28ET bottom end which then ran 300lbs of torque for 5 years without a problem. 500cc injectors, SDS RFI, intercooled, T3/T4 hybrid, 16psi. In my opinion, the aggregation and time lost in pulling the motor is not worth gambling with the NA pistons.

I’m doing the same repair as we speak. I totally understand how slow progress this is. This part of the restoration is more “art” than mechanical aptitude alone can help with. IMG_4843.MP4

i had the same issue when trying to log-in with my e-mail. I switched to logging in with my user name, and the problem went away.

Brian, I just went through this nightmare. You will need to cut it all out. The rear hatch slam lid is actually four pieces of metal spot welded together. Two vertical pieces that flare out in opposite directions, one lower “backing” which is what bends and creates your hatch mounding life. The LAST piece is what is visible and available for $130 Online. I attached some photos of my cut and rebuild. It took 2-3 weekends. I don’t have a metal brake, so I had to weld the 90’s. IMG_4558.MOV

If I understand correctly, the stock S15 type R (only sold in Japan) had an OEM helical LSD for their short-nose R200. Anyone know if the center section can be swapped into a 280Z R200? I am concerned if you need the S15 stub shafts, or if the 280z half-shafts will slip right in.

to your point about tracks, the ones I am looking at all have banked turns, but otherwise not rough at all. I don’t see any flat ones I’m interested in. I think the main goal for my shock/spring setups is to limit excessive travel and body movement between turns at moderate speed (30-40mph). My swaybars seem to be doing a good job managing “roll”. Also, I really appreciate your help! This website has been a huge help for me. I’m not sure if Group “EP” would fall under “hybrids” since it’s a stock performance group, but y’all are definitely a lot more knowledgeable and in the same category of technical interest/scrutiny as myself. Definitely getting the Koni 8610’s, so now I just need to investigate a racing spring rate. I’m anxious to buy something without knowing it will work well at the higher dampening rates (need something stiff). I have run the stiff setting on tokico’s in the past with softer springs, and you can definitely feel the over-dampening. It shouldn’t feel like the shock is doing all the work jilting the car up and down. lastly, any thoughts on the shock isolators? Stick with stock, or is there something better on the market?

yeah the springs on the car now are stock cut. Guy before me did it,, and the car often scrapes at the exhaust while driving. Definitely need stiffer springs. arizona Z used to sell them in different spring rates but I don’t see them available on his website anymore I wish I could see the spring rates for Vogel.

Speaking specifically to your point, OBX makes a unit that is usually $300-500 on ebay. I believe it is a cheaper version of the QUAIF helical. I have not used it myself, so I will let the other community members comment on quality. You could also do a search on here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-LSD-For-1991-98-240SX-Silvia-200SX-Europe-Only-84-89-300ZX-RWD-R200-Axle/123918532225?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Df466532a0b184e42858fc3626ec5e0d7%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D203171784905%26itm%3D123918532225%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DOBX+Racing+Sports&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Adb80d284-21d7-11eb-851e-16f24dd4a5b6|parentrq%3Aa87e5c4b1750ad4b0d02464effebaeb4|iid%3A1

I am going to go with the Koni 8610 1437RACE. Looks like Amazon is the cheapest at the moment at $217 Thanks again for all your help! If you agree with my assessment for EP, any springs yall suggest?

Here are the group EP rules: It seems to me coilovers would not be permissible for EP, however ajustable struts and racing springs using the stock perches seems to be acceptable. Do you guys read the same? Thanks for making me look! I'm glad I didn't cook my goose. Springs and Shock Absorbers 1. Any springs or torsion bars can be used, provided the quantity and type of these items remains as stock. Springs and torsion bars must be installed in the stock location using the stock system of attachment. The use of tender springs is permitted, provided the tender springs are completely compressed when the car is at static ride height. Static ride height will be determined with the driver seated in the normal driving position. 2. Shock absorbers are unrestricted, provided the quantity and type (i.e. tube, lever) of these items remains as fitted stock. The manner of attachment of the shock absorber is unrestricted and the upper attachment point may be raised along the axis of the stock shock. The mounting of the remote reservoir of a remote reservoir shock absorber is unrestricted. No shock absorber can be capable of adjustment by the driver while the car is in motion, or can be electronically controlled.

sweet! Thank you! I will do so

other good manufacturers are NISMO, OSGiken, and Quaif

sweet!! Any recommendations on length when considering the T3 coilovers? I’m going to maintain at least 4” clearance under the car. I could measure myself but my strut assemblies are out for sandblasting and I’m a total NOOB with suspension. what are your thoughts on the MSA-KONI collaboration struts? No worries if you have no experience with them.

question: the Koni part number you provided is different than what Koni and MSA have listed for the 240z. Is there a big difference?

thanks Ben! Any recommendations on a vendor? MSA looks a bit over-priced. I guess I can check EBay. When did they stop making the tokiko Illuminas? I’m disappointed 😕 I really liked those!

Your responses were really helpful when I was struggling with the same topic. Hope my message didn’t come off insincere. I believe and trust these units are garbage, I just don’t have first hand experience. I didn’t want that to come across that I didn’t believe y’all I ended up going with the super 8.8 for the L28et powered 71’. $400 including shipping from a junkyard in Oregon. I got an aluminum casting 3.331 LSD from a 15’ mustang GT automatic. It only weighs 79lbs! My recollection of the long nose r200 is 80lbs. Not bad for a unit that should Handle much more torque.

The diff is tell-tale. It will sound mechanical, like grinding gears or whining. If you feel a “thud” whenever you hit the gas, I would check to see if your diff mount has play. if the bottom mount is shot, it will keep pushing on the strap until there is play. For me, the “thud” noise was the play. It was the diff suddenly rising under torque Until it had nowhere to go. If your bottom diff mount is worn and has too much play, your driveshaft u-joints will soon fail due to non-axial load. If that is the case, consider getting it fixed soon.

I asked about that same diff center section here a few weeks ago, and the community informed me that it was "garbage". I have no reason to refute the claim, but no evidence to support it. I would say however, the price is not indicative of a quality product for something that is "new". Also, i had clunk on numerous occasions with my 300ft-lb L28et setup. The first time was the front diff mount. After replacing it the second time, i went for a solid mount the third. The next "clunk" was the OEM driveshaft U-joints wearing out from the torque. After the second time I replaced that, i ended up going with a custom $300 driveshaft with large spicer U-joints. Added weight, but i was desperate for something that would last for more than 6-months. Third time was the R200 spider gears shattering during a clutch drop. Replaced it with a Z31 3.7. I was shocked that my halfshafts never wore out over 10 years... they too have irreplaceable u-joints.

Hi All! I just disassembled my rear suspension. Made myself a spindle removal tool, and now the rear control arms and strut housing are removed from the vehicle. Everything was dropped off at the sandblaster today. I'm looking for your opinion on available coilovers and struts. I have the ability to weld, and have been doing quite a bit recently (rust repair). I am eyeing the T3 weld-in coilover ends for ~$500. Any thoughts? Struts...im lost. The last time I bought struts for a Z, tokico was still making the 5-way ajustables. No idea what is on the market now. My budget is around $1,000, and this is for an SCCA group EP race car. I know there are a lot of other expensive options out there, but I have to reserve cash for other improvements. The car already has front and rear sway bars, custom strut supports, and a full racing cage. I know there are a lot of discussions on the topic, but I'm specifically looking for the best option given the budget. I really appreciate your feedback!

Beautiful job. I assume this was all in an effort too stay OEM?

very cool! So whatcha gonna do with the LD28 crank now that you are getting the billet one?

Hi! I got a line on an LD28 crank. Anyone have an idea on the market rate for one? Im seeing $1200-$1600, although there are very few for sale.

Pics as promised. Completely rotted through where the floor pans meet the rockers and cage. New ones are on their way from zed findings in Canada that glow is a flashlight shining from the underside

Well thanks for the insight guys! I didn’t realize the driveshaft was purposefully flexing the U-joint at a slight angle during rotation. I knew the tranny had a slight down angle, but did not realize the tranny output and diff input where slightly offset in purpose. Always learning something new!

Really, really phenomenal job here man! Learning a ton from you, and very impressed with your attention to detail and methodical approach. Im going to be mating the super 8.8 to my L28et, so I only need to worry about one alignment angle, not both simultaneously. I was going to cut a plate to mate to the 8.8 yolk with a laser level mounted flush. That way, I can shim the diff until the laser points dead straight into my tranny rear seal. It’s just a hair brained idea. Hope it works!