AydinZ71

I have used solidworks with FEA when I was younger at a job. The software and license is just way to expensive for personal use. My dream would be to design an Al tube frame using FEA the whole way. I could laser check the dimensions between the body skinS, fenders etc. , and build a skeleton frame within its cavity. it would look like an S30 on the outside, but just below the surface there would be a matrix of AL tubes. carbon fiber is of course lighter, but no way I could cost effectively fabricate that. AL tube is relatively cheap here (less than $2 a pound). I follow a guy on IG who has an all steel tube frame (I think AL frame is not allowed?) S30 designed to tackle pikes peak.

I will snap a few pictures in the morning. It could be my rusted-out floor pans. They act as a shear wall against the horizontal flex of the OEM unibody subframe. Even the full cage has no horizontal members at floor level, only vertical and longitudinal. Makes sense since the tranny tunnel is in the way. its stiffer than my 71’ with no cage, but not as stiff as my 08’ 335i. I know... apples and oranges i agree with Jmortensen that empirical testing is necessary. Beyond driving, I have lifted the car and each of the 4 corners and watched how the body reacts (flex). Like a 4 legged stool, a stiff frame will show a close relationship between the subframe member being lifted, and the change in angle at the opposite corner. The less you see a cause-effect at the remaining 3 corners, the more body flex you are experiencing. The body is essentially twisting/bending to compensate for the differential stress, vs. “tipping” the car. Extreme example is like picking up a paperback book from one corner and watching it bend.

believe it or not, they have an enormous margin. One of my employers banned us from using them for R&D because they were considered to be 30% more expensive then their suppliers. However, they have so much in stock and have such a phenomenal website, I will gladly pay the markup for small volume parts.

Yep! I’m lucky to be 30 min from McMaster will-call. The last time I went to MSA was 15 years ago. I guess I was disappointed that it seemed they had not upped their game in that time. elimination of the catalogue, even just an in-house copy, was a bummer. They could have kept publishing them for online browsing, if print cost was excessive. meanwhile I see a plethora of other options available online to direct purchase from their suppliers. Given the difficulty in identifying what performance parts they have available online, I would have thought their marketing would be easier to navigate than their suppliers (many of whom disclose what is in stock on their websites). Obviously inconvenience thanks To covid is understandable.

After looking at all my options, I’m going with the super 8.8. Got a reasonable deal on eBay. Thanks again Wlad for your help!

I just tore the wheel well apart as well, to do rust repair. The steel is super thin here, so be careful not to blow holes. This is where water and dirt will be flung at high speed, so use a flash light to check for pin holes when you are done welding. It would be better to fill the holes with a tack, but por-15 seam sealer will do the trick if they are hard to get a welding nozzle too. Personally, I have a hard time welding upside downs I wonder if there is a “top-10” list of sorts, for the most strategic places to add steel. My car has already been seam welded, but I still feel some flex, even with a full cage and strut bars. I suspect it is my failing/rusted floor pans which act as a shear wall, but I’d like to add more metal while I’m at it.

I’m here because of a few reasons: 1) seems to be populated by more seasoned, experienced people 2) I don’t do Facebook... too much political content and trolling. I do Instagram though. I post pictures of my work, and just unfollow people when they post a political (left or right) image.

Yeah... I don’t know if it was common to put these heads on L24 blocks for racing 🤷🏽‍♂️. The CR alone doesn’t make much sense. I picked up an N42 from a local guy, and will swap it after cleaning it up. the guy I bought it from ran mega squirt and blew a head gasket, but he thinks it was from improper ignition timing At high rpm. I don’t see any valves bent, but I will spray some lightweight oil down the runners and see if it leaks past the valve/seat when closed. When I pull the P90a, I will use a syringe and plastic plate to estimate the chamber volume. Then il know if it’s appropriate for the L28et. Fingers crossed. It might still be OK with the dished JE pistons, but id prefer if I settle on a CR sub 8 for the ~16psi I was running. Otherwise, I will need to use a 2MM gasket (if they still make those), or turn my boost down. I’m going to need to look into a knock sensor. It’s hard to hear over the wastegate dump.

Disappointed... I used to love these guys. 1) Browsing their website is Underwhelming. You have to know precisely what you are looking for. Not the same as being shown whats new, what’s popular, and what is exciting. 2) went there in person. Due to COVID, you can not go into the building anymore. They sent a sales guy out, again you need to ask for a specific part. They have no literature to show you. 3) Catalogue has not been in print for 10 years. That was my favorite part of them. It was illustrated very well, and would “sell you” on exclusive parts they have, and popular items. 4) They don’t stock very much... called them twice over two months to see if they had 240z floor pans available. Both times, they were either waiting for a shipment or didn’t have one planned for 2 months. They tell you to buy it on their website and just wait... well I bought it direct from the manufacturer and had it shipped for less. I wonder how much longer they will be around...

Here is the accessible information I’m using, and I’m assuming it is accurate 🤷🏽‍♂️ http://zcsd.org/tech-articles/power-quest2.php

Ah cool!!! What is the stock measurement from the bottom of the letters to the deck? I can use a caliper to check. I don’t have a Spare head gasket or chain tension tool To pull the head at this time. I should be able to next week. This was an SCCA car, so I’m hoping the previous owner knew what he was doing. I doubt the CR from a flat top piston L24 block and stock P90a head would be very attractive

Hmmm interesting! Well That’s good to know! I wonder why the previous owner Mounted this on an L24 block. I heard the P90’s flow well, but really no idea compared to thier predecessors.

Hi guys! People said they existed, but honestly never saw one in the wild. I pulled the valve cover from the 71’ SCCA car today, and low and behold it’s a P90A with solid lifters. Am I crazy, or are these rare? I also can’t make out the cam. The fire-wall side is blank on the end, but it does have an “A” on the casting. 🤷🏽‍♂️ the block is an L24. Curious what the CR is for this setup, but for now the best I can do is run cylinder pressures. Will do when I get the bat back in. has anyone else seen this setup before? Curious what you all think. I think I’m going to steal this head for the L28et so I can install an upgraded cam into it. Currently, it has a P90a with hydraulic lifters, which will not allow for aftermarket cams.

I’d love the understand how you are running the motor. Everything I am reading says a complete independent enginE management system is not possible with the VVEL. Do you mind sharing what you are using,?howuch of it is stock electronics, etc?

“Bring a trailer”. The highest values I have seen cars sell for Online, but you see the most success with original, low milage, and rare cars. Keep in mind, the bidders I see ask some savvy questions and the high bidders seem quite sophisticated. I’m not too sure “detailing” alone will get you where you want to be.

Be careful with the heat on the MiG! I have warped some panels by tack welding too quickly. Definitely don’t lay a bead. Are you going to weld it yourself?

I installed their fuel and ignition management (still using distributor) back in 01’ on my L28et. I called them today, and they told me swapping out the main board to utilize the latest and greatest system would be $400. Seems like it has a little more functionality than it did, and upgraded firmware. Anyone have first-hand experience with SDS recently? Has the market left them behind? alternatively, I’m considering purchasing a new best-in-class system, but don’t really know what’s out there now and the pro-cons of the systems.

How are you liking it so far? I too am looking for the trifecta of quietest, least restrictive, and lightest solution possible. If I could get all three stool-legs (so-to-speak) as equally short as possible, is be happy. I really don’t mind it being whisper quiet at idle or low-load driving. As soon as that Waste-gate opens, it’s plenty loud for me and the neighborhood! I grew tired of being know as the “loud car” in my neighborhood.

Just as an example of what is available on offer-up, a guy posted a clean rb25det swapped 72’ two weeks ago here in the LA area. I msgd him (this was before I arranged for the return of my 71’ L28et swapped car). It had coilovers, upgraded brakes, etc. It was posted for $16k. He told me a guy messaged him within 10 minutes and offered him full price. I was intrigued. the price and popularity at this time is increasing quickly (I don’t know if it’s temporary because of the 400z intro).

Here are the progress pics on the series 1 SCCA car.

Updates!! So as I dug into the SCCA car, i noticed quite a bit of rust. The guy who sold it to me was not honest about it, and it would be very naive if he didnt know about it. Someone used what looks to be silicone filler to hide the rust-through holes on the hatch and wheel wells. I have spent the past two months cutting and welding-in new sheet metal and replacement panels. I have about another month or two to go. Originally, i wanted to convert the car into a road & track machine. looking at the SCCA Class "E" rules, it seems like the car was set up for competitive racing and is class compliant. It seems like a real shame to remove or modify so many design elements that make it a compliant race car. As a result, i decided I was going to remove all the rust and make some other necessary mechanical improvements, then sell her. If anyone is interested, I have documented all the work on IG @240z_restomod . I will post some pictures here in case some don't user IG. I don't use facebook's platform myself (too much politics). In another insane development, I am getting back my original 240z! I kept in touch with the guy who bought it 5 years ago, and threw him the crazy idea of me buying it back now that I have a garage again and significant improvements in life stability (i moved across country for a job when I sold the car originally). I sold the car for $5,500, and buying it back for $10,500. The increase factors in about $3,000 in improvements the new owner made, and the crazy appreciation we are experiencing. Here is a video of the car as it is now if yall are interested!

Oh! Well that does change things... I have found a local rear shop that said they will install the center section for me and check the “backlash” (whatever that is). From what I’m reading, the z31 3.9 r200 longnose I have should already have the 12mm bolt holes To the ring gear, so that is one less thing to worry about. Reading that OBX write up just really turned me off. It seemed way more complicated for the limited experience I have. If I can just bolt-in the carrier without disassembling it, I’m in. Part of my anxiety is that I don’t have a lift, and every time I have changed my diff (4), it’s a huge PITA. Literally would rather change an L-series with tranny already mounted, than do another 80lb diff swap on my back. I just want something to work Day 1 and not require me to remove it again. I have busted one r200 before, so I know these things do break.

this is really helpful! Thank you $2200 is not cheap, but when the motor is only $2500, it’s not too bad all-in!

So I read through the write up, and it’s way over my head. I just don’t have enough experience with rear ends to confidently do this, so I think I’m going to pass... all the talk about preloading got me lost. I have changed several rears, including the r200 swap in a 240z, but this seems more complicated. I just searched “OBX r200” on eBay and found several options to choose from. There are Nismo units available as well. I guess I’m going to have to look at swapping a complete short nose LSD instead... PS: thank you for the assistance!

OBX helical looks affordable online! Can you please tell me more about the washer swap? It is going into a long jose r200 3.9 from a Z31