AydinZ71

Thanks friends! I will post more this weekend when I eliminate all the runs and the clear has fully cured so I can start putting latches back on. This particular clear seems to stay soft longer than others, but it had a good long "wet" time to it.

@clarkspeed thank you! updates. Starting to look like a real car.

Special thanks to @clarkspeed with his help offline with wiring. You’re go-by’s were very helpful, thank you! Have a question for you and the broader group. Does anyone have experience splicing sensor signal wiring for electronic sensors? I am planning my wiring since body/paint in nearly complete. I would like the chassis to be as plug-and-play as possible for the two engines I have: 1) L24 EP spec motor, SU carbs, crank fire ignition 2) (under development) 3.1L L28 running Motec EFI Although I plan on completing the EFI wiring harness at a later date, I believe there are some steps I can incorporate into the existing wiring I am developing for the L24. For example, I have electronic autometer gauges that I should be able to use the signal from as some of the necessary I/O for the MOTEC ECU. Does anyone know the appropriate way of splicing analog signal wire? Let’s say, a voltage sweep from an engine water temp gauge. Reviewing the wiring details of the gauges, it seem most have a signal output for a data logger, but was curious if I could just splice the analog signal directly.

@Ahvicha are you experienced with metal work and rust repair? That’s a small, reasonable candidate for a simple fabrication. Best part is, no one will ever see it if you screw it up. Buy some 18-gauge mild steel sheet metal, some poster board and start tracing/cutting a template. Then just cut the metal to the template outline. Use welders magnets from HF and a hammer to fit the new piece in and weld. you will have to remove all that rust back to shiny bare metal though. Use a wire wheel, and either a small dremel, die grinder, etc to remove the area for your replacement piece. If you are inexperienced with metal work, I think you will struggle regardless of whether someone makes a replacement/donor piece. I would spend some time practicing your thin sheet metal welding.

Got the door jams, hatch jams, cowl sill etc. painted to the car’s final colors. Now I can start block sanding the whole car now that body work and primer is done, and we can get some damn paint on this sucker. Weather still isn’t cooperating in Southern California. Too humid/wet as every day is overcast and we have rain scheduled for tomorrow. Very unusual. IMG_0816.MOV

@clarkspeed yeah I was told From a few sources to try welding cable. I believe it is 1awg? I just remember running the calcs and estimating the FLA draw of the starter motor (not the solenoid, I think that’s only 20-30A) and it checked-out. We’ll see! On the bright side, it’s not like you engage the starter for very long so it’s unlikely to overheat if it’s only 1-2 sizes small.

@clarkspeed indeed! Plan is to have plastic on all four sides. Using a thicker gage for the floor, possibly even a cheap HF plastic tarp. Plastic is pretty cheap and I intend to toss it when I am done. Reconsidering building the tent in my driveway again. Mostly because it would be easier and (as you mentioned) easy access to ambient light. I was worried the 10' standard easy-up width wouldn't be enough, but then remembered I could just flare-out the plastic on each side. HF sells a cheap one that's 10'X20'. I thought about the explosion risk as well, but I ran the calcs. Even at a conservative 4% lower explosive limit, the 2500cfm fan I bought makes it rather implausible that an explosive mixture would be likely. Especially with an HVLP gun. I am going to add one small box fan w/filter as a "pusher", but the main fan will be used as a fume extractor. I have 50X25" of make-up-air filtration which should be enough to keep-up. We will see! If I'm on the news, we know something went wrong.

Very cool! Thanks for sharing. Yeah i figured race car and all...might as well save a pound or more just sizing the wires appropriately. I will start looking for those while searching amazon. Appreciate it!

Funny! Look at my recent Amazon purchases 😂 like minds I suppose. Brian from Paint Society recommended it for the water-based wipe-down before solvent wipe down (urethane primer prep, NO solvent on polycarb). I have a feeling there is some solvent out there that won’t cloud the plastic but not worth the risk unless the water based doesn’t cut it. Any water based cleaner is usually some form of evaporating surfactant. A type of alchohol usually, since it’s soluble in water. Man… I spent way too much researching this damn paint job.

@manninen never heard of them. The TE37’s in my spec are 10.9lbs. I will stick with the Volks, but thanks.

@clarkspeedhaha, yes definitely Polycarb. The Bosch blade says plexiglass, but it appears to work great on any kind of hard plastic. Does not gunk up or catch, and cuts pretty smooth. Yeah I did the trace too, but it appears I cut too much on my first pass. You warned me about leaving extra on, but its really difficult (as you know of course) to get the "bow" going around the sill when test fitting. The SCCA thickness spec. which matches a 1/4" equivalent thickness is naturally hard to bend. The 1/8" thick hatch class was much, much easier and I got a near perfect fit. Updates: I found a NLA set of TE37's at a reasonable price! $2250 including shipping from Japan. It has taken me three years searching ebay to find a pair. It is the lightest commercially available wheel for the 15"X7" spec. in the OEM bolt circle. Picked up another used 5hp 120v compressor for $60. Gearing up to paint the car, and needed more CFM to keep the gun moving. Also gathering the fans/filters/plastic to make the booth. All I have left is to block sand the high-build primer and its time to finally paint the SOB.

Appreciate it Clark! Hey, do you mind taking a photo of that crimper/stripper you like? Since the brand is worn-off, I can at least look for one in the same "style" Since this is the first time I'm doing wiring beyond the amateur twist and tape, the materials themselves and where to get them is a little lost on me. I already started my wire sizing chart, and will likely make a crude sketch of the point-to-point. Where did you get your 3-wire shielded? Any specific spec's I should look for? How about the shrink tube label maker, and the shrink tubes themselves? Sorry, so many questions.

ouch!! Yeah I had always been told to stay away from centerforce. Hmm… wonder if this thing would be of value to anyone. Yeah I have never run a multi-disk, so the various layers through me off. One of the last remaining “surprises” from the PO. I do still have the quartermaster button flywheel/clutch ready and waiting for me. I probably won’t put it in until I have worked out all the bugs and had a few test/tune days at the track. Almost everything is brand new and needs adjusting on the car, so one less variable of inconvenience. In the meantime, I have a 9lb Kameari flywheel and OEM Exedy disk/PP I can throw on. That should be a reasonable solution until the car is a smidge more competitive. Thanks Jon!

OK. Need to clean and organize the garage so I can build a spray booth with plastic sheeting. Pulled the 4spd from the L24 that was in her when I purchased her. Got some fun bits under the bell housing. Anyone recognize this clutch? Appears to be a muiltiple-disk centerforce. No idea why you would need this with an L24 but can’t complain. The flywheel also appears to be non-stock. Tried scratching it with a piece of 6061, no dice. I’m guessing it’s steel, but it’s spotless. Seems rather thick for a lightweight unit 🤷🏽‍♂️

Thanks man! I wish! Both the windshield and the hatch glass, I traced and cut until it worked-out. The windshield is a bit butchered. I had to fabricate hold-down flanges for either end so the screws didn’t cause too much visual distortion on the “glass”. Top and bottom screws didn’t have enough pressure to cause divets, but the passenger/drivers sides did. I did learn a few things: use a quality plexiglass - specific Bosch blade. The actual jigsaw didn’t appear to matter, but the blade was crucial. Measure a billion times and cut a tiny amount at a time. I over-cut the front, but by the time I got to the hatch I got the hang of it. You can use a block and 80-grit to make minor adjustments on the ends. I used this expensive purple painters tape from 3M (I’ll look it up if you need it) which made it easy to mask the curves for the black anti-glare mask. Used a caliper to mark w/ a sharpie a set distance from the edge, then connected the dots with the masking tape. I used single stage 2-component urethane for the mask. I was nervous that any other paint could fail under UV. Base/clear probably works but I was nervous that the base would be exposed through the glass and would miss-out in the UV protection afforded by the clear 🤷🏽‍♂️ Probably overly conservative. many thanks to Clark and the HZ family for the pointers they gave a year ago.

@Ben280 yeah I had not heard of it until I did a bunch of online research. If it’s good enough for a military aircraft, it’s gotta be good for a race car! @clarkspeed This time around, I had time to read your full list. Do you mind sharing the make/model of some of your tools? Stripper, crimper, etc? There are soooo many options it’s a bit overwhelming.

Wow look at that! Nice wiring job! what kind of wire did you buy? I bought some tezfel Mil-spec wire to try out. The insulation appears to be lighter and it withstands higher temps for the engine bay. Looking great Clark. What fuel do you plan to run? Leaded?

Thanks guys! Yeah, all that skim coating and block sanding… gawd damn, must have been hundreds of hours now. “Take it down to bare metal!” They said hahahah appreciate all your support got the cowl cover epoxied, primed, and underside is black. I was going to paint the top side flat black in the style of my friends A-10 (Indiana air national guard), but Greg told me “it will look like shit”. To be fair, I only listen to his aesthetic opinion 1/3 the time, but I was already on the fence with this one. Painted my front and rear polycarb black mask. masking video was me soliciting Greg’s opinion on the extent of the black mask. IMG_0726.MOV

Bodywork almost done! I’m never doing this again 😂 Hopefully around a month from paint. Took some weights for curiosities sake. The fenders are within a few ounces of one another. The door weight includes the hinges (drivers side). The passenger side door is just under 14lbs now. Can’t run fiberglass doors in EP, otherwise John Washington’s 9lb fiberglass doors would have been awesome! Probably could have saved ~15lbs total by going with fiberglass fenders, but with all the custom metal work it was much easier for Me to complete in steel.

Congrats Clark! Do you have a detail write-up on the motor? Would love to geek-out on the specs.

Pretty sweet Clark. Just as an FYI, Canton Racing will rebuild your unit for ~$60 (plus shipping). Pretty affordable! If you have any used oil in the gas-side of your unit, its time to rebuild. I bought a 3qt unit used and had it rebuilt last year. Apologies in advance if you are already aware of all this. OH, they also have a remote actuator cable, and even an auto-actuate servo. Honestly, i think its worth keeping the heat and mess (engine oil fittings all leak to some extent) in the engine bay.

Thanks! Does kind of look like that! It is unfinished at this time, since I just wanted to get the mounting points (and qiuk-lateches) figured out. Its just a .04" sheet of 6061AL. It will get reinforcement once the wheels are back on the car, and I can contemplate ride height.

Bodywork on passenger side is all done. Panels are sealed and primered, waiting for final block sanding. also made brackets for the front bumper to pop on/off with Quik-latches.

Update: air dam is unfinished (hence, flimsy) but the quick-disconnect mounting is complete so I can finish the fenders and seal them. Also finished by fuel, return, and brake lines in the tunnel. IMG_0407.MOV passenger side bodywork is done, moving over to drivers side door and fender. FullSizeRender.MOV IMG_0408.MOV

I believe Datsun Spirit is an distributor for Kameari machined components. I'm curious if what you show here are the same pistons I recieved from Kameari direct. They look really familiar! Appear to be shortened piston height and slipper skirt.