AydinZ71

Maybe there are a few folks (my self included) who would be willing to moderate if we were provided permissions but maybe Cary or someone will read. I enjoy the forum and don't feel it is a huge impediment (periodic spam) but I'd be happy to help delete the bots.

Hi all! ok, setting class rules aside for the moment, what would be your first choice for brake caliper/rotor setup for a 15” wheel, and why? front And rear. curious whAt the current consensus is. From what I can see, all these vendors are offering big brake kits but no idea if there are any differences: Zcar garage big brake kit T3 big brake kit silvermine MSA

Hi all! ok, setting class rules aside for the moment, what would be your first choice for brake caliper/rotor setup for a 15” wheel, and why? front And rear. curious whAt the current consensus is. From what I can see, all these vendors are offering big brake kits but no idea if there are any differences: Zcar garage big brake kit T3 big brake kit silvermine MSA

Hi all! ok, setting class rules aside for the moment, what would be your first choice for brake caliper/rotor setup for a 15” wheel, and why? front And rear. curious whAt the current consensus is. From what I can see, all these vendors are offering big brake kits but no idea if there are any differences: Zcar garage big brake kit T3 big brake kit silvermine MSA

Because they want to make it looked “slammed”. Or whatever the kids call it these days. im kidding, I think it’s cool that everyone’s got a style in mind. I agree it’s not a performance oriented decision though. Z’s set up for racing rarely go wider than 15X7 because of a combination of racing rules, reduced weight (both in the wheel/tire combo and the much lighter ~1900lb or less, car), and generally topping out at 250-350 for NA L-series motors. I feel the early s30’s are closer to a Miata than other popular and larger modern GT cars, in terms of size, weight, and handling.

It sounds cool, and it certainly would be a great platform for a 1/4-mile drag. I just think as a road vehicle 700hp(the torque is the dangerous part) in a sub-3000lbs car means one of two things. Either you won’t use all that torque on the road (you will choose not to use WOT), or you will slip and slide and have the potential to total the car. Cage is a must for chassis stiffening let alone safety, but even with all the safety stuff you can still total your prized possession. After 20 years, I guess what I’m saying is bigger isn’t always better unless you are competing in a closed/controlled course.

Those holes are really quite easy to weld shut if you have already committed to re-painting the cowl cover. Otherwise, the easiest and most convenient thing to do is measure the hole opening and buy a rubber flush plug, like all the other spots on the unibody. Weld or no-weld, it will be difficult to get a true delete (like it was never there) without refinishing the whole cover. Color-matching, filler work, etc. The piece is small enough to have sent-out for media blasting.

In my experience, adding coolant to the turbo bearing cartridge is most valuable in preventing the oil from cooking (and fouling the bearing) between boosting. If you have appropriate oil pressure at your turbo, you should have sufficient flow to keep the bearing cool during operation. The coolant is a heat-sink to prevent the bearing and oil temperature from peaking above when the oil begins depositing coke dramatically (300deg+?). Most valuable for short runs where the car drops back to idle with a glowing-hot turbine housing, simultaneously oil pressure dropping (idle). I have seen folks with typical oil-bearings without a turbo-timer having no problem thanks to the water jacket. In general, I just let the car idle for 5 minutes before shutting down. In this way, the thermal-syphon works pretty darn well. Even is worst-case, temperature of the water rises above 250 it will start to vaporize which makes room for water column to take its place. If done correctly, it should be self-correcting (some call it fail-safe). At least for street applications, I have not seen a need to ensure active flow through the bearing housing. Always exceptions. These are just general observations.

Ford GT 8.8 would be my vote. @Invincibleextremes Goodness, everyone wants the insane power builds. Are ya'll drag racing or is this for bragging rights? Makes total sense to drag, but its reallllly dangerous having that much torque in street Z. Just my opinion having driven a wide range.

ok, I highly, highly, highly recommend having the interior and engine bay vapor blasted. looks like the body is OK so you can mask that all off with thick mil plastic. You give them $500-$800 bucks, do the masking, deliver the car and it will come back to you completely ready for epoxy primer and paint. What you are doing (piece by piece, by hand) is absolutely comendable and its precisely what I did on the race car im working on. But. i regret it. You will be chasing little rust pockets and hard to reach areas for months... years even (2 years in my case). Vapor blasting is neat. They use media combined with water so they are able to use a finer grit. They use water to keep the surface an even temperature preventing warping, but the water is warm enough that it flashes pretty quickly. It comes out essentially as steam, hence vapor. once you get the car back, you will see precisely where your cancer spots are and you can get to work. Seam seal, Epoxy primer, and you are on your way! You are doing great work

There might be a few folks on here that may know, but in general most of us active folks are gearheads focused more on performance (street or track). You are looking for something very specific from an aesthetic perspective. I will say, the look you are going for seems to be very popular and several people are trying to replicate that look. From a technical perspective, just keep-in-mind the closer your tires are to your flares (horizontal plane), the less suspension travel you will have before they rub. Unless you form custom flares with a similar profile to your wheel/tire, your suspension will suffer from trying to optimize the "look". You will get the "tucked" look while having room inside the wheel well for travel. That would be a lot of work and it may or may not look any good. Just some food for thought. I would try to strike a balance between getting the tucked look without going over-board. Those "slammed" cars you see in JDM magazines etc... well, they are cruisers. Similar to the old school lowrider culture. Not ideal for a daily, comfort, or maneuverability.

Sorry, can't help you. Have you tried Facebook?

Interior paint is complete. Now on to the body (Which honestly is a relief). threw a few before/after photo’s taking us back 2 years.

I looked into this when I was playing around with a swap idea 3 yrs ago. Are you specifically talking about the motor in the production Maserati’s? I believe only the Ferrari motors made 500 and over. I decided against it when I realized how expensive and rare replacement parts would be. It sounds cool, that's about all it had going for it compared to other options.

hmm... When you say "sleeves", do you mean the cylinder walls? If so, you definitely do not want to use scotchbrite (maybe the non-scratch kind?) as you don't want to mess-up the prevision hone job that exists. If the cylinder walls had surface rust on them. If you really want to have-a-go at what you have there, you could throw it all back together, pre-lube, and crank it over to check cylinder pressure. My instincts tell me you will not be happy with the state of the motor. It is likely to burn oil (either at the valve seals, piston rings, or both). I would just pull the motor and send it off to a machine-shop for a rebuild. Your seals and gaskets are likely toast as well, which will cause irritating oil leaks.

Cary, Agree with everything you said! The AL bracket was designed to go-over the unit (hence the bridge-like design, would have looked like it belonged), but given the geometry I had during fit-up it didn't work for me. Too sharp of an angle for the cord to penetrate the firewall perpendicular. It looks silly mounted to the side like that, but I have the room unutilized and their mount is very light. I can reconfigure the air-in/gauge nozzles since it's all disassembled anyways. Photo's were taken before I sent the unit to Accusump for reconditioning. The brass 1/4" nipple and ball valve are pretty darn heavy (over a pound). Agree all of the components could be fabricated separately for a more elegant fitment. Shortening the cord shouldn't be all that hard either. My reluctance is time. Time has been the most watched variable in this build. Since the whole chassis was restored from the ground-up including almost a year of rust repair and chassis stiffening, I'm doing everything I can now to leverage non-fabricated components. The kit was about $110, and when I compared that to the time I would spend it was a no-brainer. Two-years into the project, and I am only now finishing interior paint from bare metal (spraying this weekend). I see a future where I may re-visit many of these considerations once I get the darn thing on the track. -Aydin

Post that 3.9 for sale (if you are willing to ship) and I'm sure you could get at least $500 for it.

looking good Clark! Looks like you are getting close! how much longer you think before you will hit the track?

Yeah that’s what I had in mind. Running the accusump only (for now) since the oil pan options are quite expensive. Pre-oiling was a big plus. I got mine used for $100 and sent it to accusump for reconditioning ($60). Now that I can mig weld, I thought about just getting another oil pan and modifying it myself. They don’t weigh all that much to begin with, so not quite sure $700 for an all AL one is worth-it. My cable is installed in such a way that it goes through the fire wall, heads towards the drivers chassis air vent, then loops back to my gauge cluster at the center console. I’m still painting the rest of the interior so everything is disassembled. Here is my gauge cluster made from 0.08 5052 AL (because it bends without annealing). I got it down to 1.2lbs without the gauges and hardware. At the bottom of the panel there are two holes. One is for the fire suppression system, the other is for the accusump. Both a pull-cords with handles.

Holy cow! Sorry to hear about your loss friend. Hey, I know engine fires are rare but if you really have a sore-spot for this Kinda thing, can I suggest a suppression system? We have to use them on race cars (mandatory). The kit is expensive, but at least you don’t have to worry about the fire bottle expiring every year like we do. Il even give you my old (charged) fire bottle for free if you want to pay for shipping. just an idea! The nozzle comes out fo your fire wall and points directly onto your injectors, but in reality it’s coating everything within 3’ of the nozzle.

PS: my battery is downsized and relocated behind the passenger seat. My coolant overflow is below where your inspection light is, and my oil knock-out resevoire from the breathers is directly across from the block breather outlet. This is an NA race car, so I don’t have the turbo charge pipe to worry about.

Why you gotta be copying me and s***? Kidding, smart minds, great minds and all that baloney. I mocked up my 3qt accusump in this location w/ mounts and welded nuts, ready for install. Using a remote cable on my gauge cluster. This way, everything looks neat now that paint is back on. keep in mind, I called accusump and the cable they supply is not intended to be cut. Plan accordingly. Ideally the nozzle-end is pointed-up like mine to allow air bubbles to escape. don’t forget, you need room on the back for the air-fill port for pre-charge, and a gauge ideally. I used 1/8” plumbing hardware to make it work for me. AL fittings are naturally lighter, but I had brass on hand. IMG_7246.MOV

Heck, if you wanted a 3.7, they where in tons of z31’s. You could do some research in that space as well. i bet the auto junkets still stock r200’s from z31’s.

I sold my R200 w/ 3.54 for $300 w/ half-shafts a year ago. If it was a 3.9, it could have sold for $200 more. The 3.9 was equipped on fewer models and is the highest you go, shy of the rare 4.11 (which I have not found in an r200 carrier, only r180). You are in a good position try Facebook marketplace, offer-up (unless you are not in a metro area), eBay, etc. you will find one, I’m sure of it.

That is the most common ratio for R-200's that came in any-year S30. You might want to try finding someone with the diff for sale, and ask them to remove it if you are trying to save on shipping? Most folks don't have the gear-set separate from the carrier, but that's just my experience.