shika805

^as you can tell the rear mount had to have a hole drilled to through the rail to secure the seat in place. The problem with this is that it will limit how far you can adjust (slide back) the seat back... I'm only 5'8'' so this works for me, people over 6 foot will probably have some issues with room.

aright just an update! got the seats installed with no problem, took me about a day to think about and about 2 hours at Osh... here is the finish product, all done by hand no welding required!!!! took off the rear brackets and drilled a new hole to connect the cross-member mount that will connect to the existing mounts in the floor pans. cross member cut out and drilled spacers for the mounts front mount rear mount

mine what all brittle and came off by hand... i have linex as a new sealent, sound deadening and coat on the floor of my car.

gotcha, i've seem them already... i've looked in the seat swap thread, and few thread on zcar.com... not one goes into real detail about how they came about installing the seats. I took some measurements of the car it looks like i will be making some custom brakets for the rear mounts on the seats. I'm going the "no welding" route, bolting a custom mount to the rear mounts on the seats, then bolting it together to the car. I looks like i'm going to have to cut out the rear mounts on the seats to attach my fabricated ones.

seal in the MC... like stated. happened to me a few times with cars

that burnt orange Z is making me change my mind of wire mesh wheels. nice post

Ok, so I scored and awesome deal on some S2K seats from a friend that did a swap. They were in perfect condition and I had the money for it. I know the s2k seat swap has been done before in a 240z, but not much info on the install. Seems like it's one of the harder seat installs Some of the issues that i searched that came up: -Transmission tunnel is too wide for the seat on driver side -s2k mounts too wide for 240z mount holes -The rails on both seats, have a rail that is longer than the other -Seat install seems to sit higher than original There are probably more issues that i've missed but these seem to be the ones that came up. I know custom fab work has to be done, but if anyone has any experience with this install i would greatly appreciate it.

my car is still on jack stands but once i have it on the ground i will let you know... my buddy has a Z and its about sitting with a 3 in drop... no scrapping of any sort. his is exhaust is kinda low and it gets close, just adjusting the hanger will make it better. i wouldnt go past 4 in. thats a little over kill

unfortunately i had the wheesl taken off, I just finished with the rear brakes, moving on to the front. when i do get them on, i'll post some pics

totally agree, i just meant the Japanese Domestic Market, always keeps all the good stuff in their home court, us here in North America we get the left overs. I see it a lot with honda, mazda, nissan, whatever.... sorry to be off topic, but i'll be definitely looking for a good sway bar... thanks guys

thanks man, i will be looking for area tomorrow on my car.

^not much... your gonna mess with some "travel" issues with your struts

^thanks john so your telling me that a early 240z is not for driving "hard???" and a later 240z and above that were equipped with a sway bar are meant be to ran the crap out of??? ^of course its not mild, I was pertaining more to why did the early 240z's were not equipped with a sway bar but have the mounts for a sway bar???... it just makes sense that we should have one, right? what's it gonna hurt anyway? like what HS30-H said, we just got shafted from the good stuff...

exactly??? i dont understand it, why make the mount area for the sway but not include one?

thanks for the info guys, ok so this leads me to this question? my plans for the car is making it a weekend driver for now. I currently have shortened struts and the Ground Control kit on the car and is lowered about 3.5". I would love to take this car to autox someday but not now. Would you think a rear sway is in order or just leave it how it is? seems as if the rear sway bar doesnt have a noticeable difference in handling with your guys' experience?

amazing.... i can only wish, i can be doing that with my restoration, just beautiful.

do you have a pic of your set up?

cool, i tried reading in the Haynes Manual but nothing explained about the missing sway bar??? Is is possible to swap a 260 sway bar into an early 240??? I wasnt quite sure where the mounts would be on the body of the car? i know that the control arms have the mount holes for the sway bar? would it work?

So I am currently rebuilding my 71 240z from the ground up... I'm currently working on the rear suspension and placing everything back together. I noticed on my car that it wasn't equipped with a rear sway bar???? I never noticed this when I was removing the rear suspension from my car? I took a look at my Haynes manual and found that indeed that the s30 was equipped with a rear sway bar? The new bushing kit that i ordered included new bushings and end links for a rear sway bar also???? Has anybody ran into this issue before??? This car has been in my family for about ten years sitting out in the from yard. My dad never touched the car and left it to me to restore when I got older. I recently took over the restoration about year ago and is about half done. I noticed this when getting my car back from the paint shop. My car is an early model Z, it was built in November 1970, but was sold in 71' if that helps. Thanks in advance guys!

yeah progressive springs are meant to NOT to be handled with, if you love your s30, save some money and buy a good set of springs that will bring your car lower, or go the Ground Control route with shorten struts, my $0.02...

^ this will also help if you are still wanted to save your tie rods. my suggestion is just getting some new ones, hammering on those tie rods really mess up the threads.

i had a problem with this too... how i got mine off was removing the steering knuckle from the ball joint and strut tube. Your tie rod is now able to be removed from the steering column with the steering knuckle still connected. When you have both parts off the car i took one blow with the hammer to the tie rod and damn thing popped out. I dont know why it was so easy to removed it with off the car when on the car??? use some liquid wrench or aero kroil, it'll help a lot.

how you doing man, sorry to bump old thread, just had a question, are you using any type of bump steer spacers? My set up is almost exactly like yours..

yup you gotta replace the spring perch with a new one to fit the threaded collar.... here's mine with the ground control collar perch that came with my kit

ok so for back spacing on the watanabes... i at least need the spacer to put the hub flush with the caliper (s12 toyota caliper). let me know what you can do? and how much it would be?