A to Z

03-16-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: My welder showed up today and welded up my cross bracing and a few spots on the trans tunnel where it touches the firewall. While here, he pushed on the outside of the windshield as I pulled the rope and got the windshield in. Tried to get the hatch window in, but it wasn't wanting to do it. So, I will have someone help me with that rear one later. I went ahead and installed my mesh cover for the turbo.....I had to go down a size to clear the engine. I got started on putting the door frames back in and getting the windows working right, more to do on that. PICS:

03-14-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Since the intake was off, I went ahead and tackled the project I have been putting off. Modifying the Atlas Industries alternator bracket setup to work on my project. the mounting plate is 1/2" thick, and the alternator just wouldn't clear the frame rail, so after trying to cut the aluminum bracket down, I gave up and traced out the bracket on a piece of 1/4" thick steel and cut it out and drilled the holes out. I then used my Dremel to counter sink the holes so I could use the bolts and everything that came with the kit. I painted the steel bracket with silver engine block paint and the bottom bracket I had to trim 1/4" off of it. Then I was able to install he alternator (brand new AC Delco, nice unit), and then on to the fun part.....belt alignment. Using a straight edge, I had to keep working little by little shaving aluminum off the provided spacer and then lightly grinding the back of the nylon pulley and it turned out great! Then I went ahead and installed the fittings to use a 8AN line for the crankcase breather on the intake between cylinder runners 3 and 4, and I found that by leaving it black it is hidden and you cant see it, so that worked out better than I had planned. once the intake was tightened all down, it was time to finish the intercooler piping. The driver's side was VERY tight. I used two 90 degree sections and trial and error and cutting them down I was able to come up with a decent arrangement. so that piece, to be welded along with a frontal piece to weld a length on to eliminate some couplings were put together and I will take them to get them welded up then take all of the pipes to get powdercoated with the "polished aluminum" finish. I could get them polished.....but it would cost more......opinions? Lastly I put together the intake side, switching to a 4 inch coupling setup with the GM factory style MAF meter. it was 3.75 diameter, so I took some rubber strips that are adhesive on one side and ran a strip of it around the mating surface, and then I was able to tighten the hose perfect on it. I did have to use the 4 inch to 3 inch reducer on the end, as the engine has pieces sticking out that won't allow for 4" pe, etc. I have a 3" screen arriving soon which will be on the front and it should look pretty good. I will have to get inventive to add polished/chromed to it to get rid of too much black. maybe a very thin polished aluminum piece that wraps around it and can be fastened underneath? Anyway, here are some pics:

Paneled paint jobs that give inspiration:

03-13-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE. A week or two ago, I got with Joshua who runs JP fiber shop and advertises on most of the Z car pages a lot. He is located in the Dominican Republic and makes fiberglass and carbon fiber parts. He made my fiberglass smooth cowl piece. He began a project for me. To make a roof, partial quarters, doors and partial front fenders out of carbon fiber, but just a thin sin.....one that could be trimmed and bonded over existing steel. The idea I have is to make it look like a "Paneled" paint job. Since my 260Z is part american hot rod, part street rod, part sports car, and part Japanese classic, I have used ideas from each genre in this build. To achieve the paneled look, I have had John cut-in, 1 inch around the border of each panel, to include the front fender to door gap areas, and these outlines will be in the factory Nissan #305 light metallic blue, as the cut outs for the door handles and locks, parking lights on the front and rear corners, etc will also show the color "underneath". The body line is the cut off point for the side pieces. The front fenders will remain blue on the tops, with a black windshield frame and top, but a fiber panel is also going on the top. The job is almost completed and then he will mail it to me. I will bond it with the SEM 50 second panel bond epoxy. It is a love it or hate it deal. I fully expect most will hate it/think it looks stupid.....so there's no need to tell me, but I know you will. It is unique....the car becomes "art". here are some pics of the process of making hte panels and a few pics of random cars to show the paneled paint jobs that inspired this. I will be adding my gloss black flares OVER the carbon panels and a black roundel on each door with the number 7 cut out. Click below for video: Main Video 1.mp4

THANK YOU Sir. I am really enjoying this car.

03-08-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: I got the rollbar in, a little interior painting around those areas, and then I cut the thick steel plates for my "cross bar" section going on the floor from the door jamb right in front of the seats, over the tunnel down the other side and to the other door jamb. Ready for the welder! I also did a little bit of interior parts painting, but the floor plates took quite a awhile. PICS:

03-07-2026. ATLAS Z UPDATE: I started with the intercooler piping on the turbo side, and have it ready for welding, sanding and polishing. I got started on the intake side, but ran out of parts. Since I had to pull the intake, I enjoyed the easy access to that side of the engine, and installed my new AC Delco starter, and wired the solenoid and main batt power on it. I also was able to plug in the harness points on that side of the engine, install the crank position sensor and both knock sensors, all new GM stuff. Started on the alternator bracket modifying, much more on that to do. Feel got cold, called it a day. PICS

03-06-2026 ATLAZ Z UPDATE. Well, today was Seat Belt Day! When the tub and walls need a cleaning, you go ahead and grab your 52 year old belts, some pliers and duct tape to hold them extended and grab a heavy duty brush, some dish washing detergent and get to it! The water going down the drain was a dark brown soup. Dirt, dust, skin, body oils, everything. You know they never get cleaned. Once dry I will have to paint the housing with the SEM Interior paint, but they will be nice. Oh and the tub is all clean and disinfected with Pine Sol! PICS:

I agree, and once driving, it will be easy to stop at a muffler shop and put it up in the air and weld a plate or so on there. Well, it has gussets. I think a 4 inch wide, 1/4 thick plate front and back would be a good move. Thanks buddy.

03-03-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Fuel system. I got 90% of it done. I just need some parts to finish. Evil Energy equipment. I love this stuff.

03-01-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Switched gears a bit, I decided to take a break from the trans tunnel and work on small stuff that has been waiting. I pulled out the 4" X 4" aluminum L backet plate I had, and measured and cut it to fit in front of the radiator, then cut out a portion to keep from inhibiting air flow to the intercooler! After I got that installed, I grabbed all the oil fittings and oil lines, and ran the oil line frm the filter boss to port#4 to help oil the 4,5,6 cylinder main bearings a bit, ran the turbo supply line and turbo drain line and installed everything, about 95% done on that. Then I installed the oil catch can and line and will go back and tie the line up later and finish the loop on the top fitting for that. Yeah I know it's gold....it what he had left....I will probably paint it blue. Before calling it a day, I mounted my electrical panel plate to the passenger floor plate or as Skillard calls it a heel plate. Then I just plain old ran out of daylight. PICS

02-28-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: I repainted the interior trim that goes behind the headliner with the landau Black SEM interior paint again and it looks like new, then I went around with some Locktite 567 and thread sealed the water, oil and boost sensors and ran them in and tightened them up...wiped off the excess..Then I started on the bracket for my gas pedal. There are 3 bolts above the gas pedal I will use to hold the bracket, and I am using 1/4" thick steel to hold it firm. It will need to be welded. Then the big job of hte day, then the trans tunnel isntall. Several trips of putting it in, deciding what to do, and then cutting strips of 18 ga. sheet metal, drilling holes, and self tapping TEK screwing it together. I have it about 90% done. I did it so that the majority was done before it was permanently installed in the car....that way I could cut off the screws and give it a last touch up of paint. I started running out of equipment and parts and had to do a couple other small things before stopping, taking a shower and running to the hardware store before they closed.... to God willing do more on it tomorrow. PICS:

02-26-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Today I got my rollbar and rear strut brace back from the powdercoater as well as the tunnel I dropped off to sandblast. The rubber is still on there, but this yucky sticky layer of honey look goos (glue) is gone. I also picked up my trans mount, he welded it up and added gussets on both sides out of 1/4" plate. I painted the back side quickly before I ran out of paint. Ready for the next day in the garage! P.S. self tapping screws and sheet metal (18 ga) here and ready to built it back, then the welder will stitch weld it and weld the plates over the top and over on both sides to the door jambs. 1/4" thick, 4 inch wide plate. Car will be overbuilt int his area like I did with the radiator support. 350-400 horsepower you really have to, even with the reinforced floor I have.

incrdibly nice work. Keep it up! can't see the flange on the turbo header....you hid it!

was able to make the template for the back of the throttle.....will bolt right to a raised area right there with 3 threaded holes. good luck!

02-21-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: I made the template for the electronic, "drive by wire" throttle, and then started bolting together the parts of my Skillard rear deck flooring. I sits about 2 inches up from the hatch floor. There are some pieces that are missing, so I went as far as I could with that this time, and then I jumped on getting a transmission mount built. I used a 6" steel square piece as a spacer, since I have such a large space to fill up. I have it 90% done, I will have it welded up and a couple gussets cut and welded in, and then either powdercoat it or paint. Lastly, I started cutting on the old trans tunnel, and figuring out what I need to get as far as some 18 ga steel to cut and form in there. I will end up screwing it together and then the mobile welder can stitch weld it together, and fully weld then the plate that goes across, but that work didn't happen today....it was COLD and I got tired of my feet being numb. PICS:

02-19-2026. ATLAS Z UPDATE. I trial fit the rollbar and rear tower brace, and then dropped them off to be sandblasted and re-powdercoated in "polished aluminum" which is what I had my bellhousing done in. Then I worked more on the dash, I still need to wire it, but I got all the gauges in, the dash plaque in....for the dash plaque I had to build up the back, as the hole makes it DEEP.......cardboard stacked up to the right height and glue, then silicone caulk to hold the badge on, looks pretty good I think. a 280 dash but the plaque says 260Z.....so pretty rare sight in the USA. So, you can now see how the dash will look in the car God willing. I also ordered the skillard lower piece that goes from the center down to the console and also serves as a stereo block off plate. I will be painting it matching gloss black hammertone finish, and the console floor will be that color as well. The gauges didn't go in totally as easy as the install makes it sound....I had to get inventive. Not too bad. PICS:

02-18-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: picked up my 1/4" thick steel plate for making the transmission mount, set out my seat belts for cleaning, and my rear strut tower brace from Apex and a Autopower Street rollbar from Motorsport Auto have arrived. So, I will decide what color I want to powdercoat stuff (gloss black of "polished aluminum") , and keep pressing forward. Will be COLD for a few days, so any work done will be indoor stuff. PICS:

ATLAS Z: Sometimes, it's easier to remove the obstruction to get stuff in, then re-isntall and mod as necessary. As mentioned, I am reinforcing the tunnel and floor with a 4 inch wide steel plate from one side to the other, welded in at the door jamb on both sides, welded across the floor, up and over the tunnel, one solid weld. steel is 1.4" thick. Add a massive amount of reinforcement for the power level. When I re-welded my radiator support I did the same thing....took the time to reinforce it and make it stronger than before.......same concept your body uses when you break bone, it repairs larger and thicker. I showed the jack pick for shock value....hehe it was a last resort, and again, I didn't get UNDER it.........I had the trans on a jack all ready to go, so I just pushed it under there to it was in the well then lowered it back on to the jack stands.

Dash cap is on! next is gauges and center section install. run the wires so once installed the wires are right there and can be easily wired. Speedo is GPS. Speedhut gauges. Made in USA, cost is like sending a kid to college

02-15-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Started off pulling the plugs, putting the transmission in neutral and putting a wrench on the crank balancer. I wanted to ensure it turns over easily and thus I know that the trans is together correctly. It's perfect . I then swapped the AC Delco plugs it had for some NCK Iridium plugs as recommended on the 4200wiki pag., but put a daub of anti-seize on them. the old plugs were tough to get out! Dissimilar metals and all. Then I installed the coil packs and got them sitting in their flush. I then decided to grab the wire numbering book and start separating and numbering wires and then cut them at strategic points to cut back on the number of splices needed. after that I spend quite a lot of time pulling the wires out straightening them out, only for them to snarl again, So I then used tie wraps and not fully tight but enough to hold them and then I was able to separate them, move the majority of the wires that go on the driver's side over there just laying across the bellhousing behind the engine for now. Then I took some measurements to begin the process of making a trans mount. I then went ahead and drug out the dash and center console, and by a quick trial and error was able to cut out the floor of the console, leaving a lip around the edge so I can make a metal floor to put in there with some nice finished bolts and paint the metal, probably a matching hammertone black like the dash center I did earlier. Then I took the dash, the gauges, and the cover inside and then cleaned up the dash with Lysol cleaning wipes and then took the tube of Silicone the cover come with, and having done this before I remember how to do it. You want to ensure the silicone is in the places with direct contact, around the gauge faces in the deep pockets, etc. After that, it is a process of using duct tape and pushing to get the cover on tight and then the duct tape pulled tight to hold it tight overnight. It looks funny, but one of the last pics shows how I grabbed whatever was around with some weight to it to put on the top to assist the tape. Tomorrow I can pull the tape off and it will be ready for gauges, God willing. PICS:

I don't really want to. I want to make this work. Thanks.

Anyone have any experience getting a custom driveshaft with CV joints? That is the way forward for me.

steeper driveshaft angle. U joints will have a short life. Oh well!