A to Z

Today I began making my own alternator relocation bracket.

today I began making an alternator bracket to put it where I want it.

One way to make your own alternator bracket for an ATLAS 4.2 / Vortec 4200, part 1: Ok, so to make a bracket, I took my alternator down to the hardware store, and found that 3/8 bolts fit in the holes just fine, I took three 4 inch long 3/8 grade 8 bolts what were all thread and dropped them in each hole and then used nuts to adjust and get the alternator sitting level and off the ground. Then I played with spacers and nuts to come up with a height that was level and off the plate It will need 2 nuts back to back welded together to give plenty of threads to hold the alternator on the bracket. I stuck the spacers and nuts stacked together under each corner to ensure the height was sufficient to keep the housing off of the plate. After that I centered it on a piece of cardboard and used a pen to draw around each bolt. then I removed the alternator, and made sure the piece of cardboard was cut in straight lines so I could get measurements later. once I got back to the garage, I then took the cardboard and held it up in the area I wanted the alternator to sit. After determining that, I used a pen to push holes in the cardboard where the bolts go through and then held it up and used the pen to push holes where the bracket will bolt to the engine. Lastly, I took a straightedge, and lined up the alternator pulley with the crank pulley and used the pen again to punch holes through the cardboard into where the mounting holes are. I now have the template. the bolts I bought and put through the alternator brackets will hold he spacers and nuts and they will be welded together and welded to the spots on the metal plate. The hole I punched through the cardboard into the engine block holes will be drilled out. once welded there will be 3 2-3" tall "towers" sticking up. I will cut gusset "triangles" out of steel and have them welded to the plate on the bottom and backed up to each tower for reinforcement. As I get further I will continue to show the progress, and will give all the specifics so that the next guy, free of charge, can get his alternator on there.

sizes avaialble: 16x8 16x9 or 16x9 -15.

I am thinking I can run a 16X8 0 offset in the front on my 260Z without flares, and the wheel should sit inside the wheel well. I am sure tire width will come into play, but the idea is to not lose any steering....I want to be able to turn lock to lock, no rubbing and possible lowering the lip down to the tire. Opinions please? 16X8 or 9 in the rear not to exceed the outer lip edge with a lowering just to eliminate wheel gap. definitely like to have some dish to the wheel and a lip. Thanks.

Progress pics on the valve cover and 2 pics of the intake. getting ready to go to the polisher! all the welds on the valvecover will be sanded smooth.

Progress pics on the valve cover and 2 pics of the intake. getting ready to go to the polisher! all the welds on the valvecover will be sanded smooth.

Thanks. I think it will.

The Goal in shaving my engine compartment . To be most as nice as this shaved engine compartment. Turbo Tom's old car (someone took the turbo rotary out ).

Today I got the motor mounts all done. I used my idea of holding a spare crossmember with spacers under the engine to make the mounts. 3 inches clears the steering rack with a hair of space. I used LS mounts I found on ebay for 32 bucks, and had to chop them up a bit to make them so they would weld over 1.4" steel plate that was cut and drilled to fit the 4200 block. The metal spans that it came with were too short, so I used a length of 3/16 steel bar and cut and drilled them. Then using the bolt, one at a time I pushed them up to the plate and used a sharpie to draw the angle then removed them and cut them down. You have to remember to mark everything so when apart, you don't get pieces mixed up, as the sides are not identical. After that, I boxed up my core transmission and then cleaned up a bit and headed to the other garage for 260 work. I ground off remaining brackets and other pieces that still needed to be removed in the engine compartment, then used a DA sander to get it all sanded down. The old paint etc....well 80 grit wouldn't even phase it, so I had to use 60 grit. I was able to get everything sanded down except for the corners and tight spaces. I have an elliptical sander I bought that I will use next to get all the corners sanded out with 150 grit, then go over what I finished today to let that 150 grit smooth out any sanding marks. After that, I will then slick all the panels with Dolphin glaze, and sand the entire deal in 220 grit. Then 3-4 coats of sandable filler primer to fill in any imperfections, then color, then 2-3 coats of clear. A lot of work, very dirty, but progress was made. Pics:

Motor mounts finished today. Fought me all the way. Now they go to be welded, then cleanup and repaint. Pics:

Started work on the motor mounts for the Atlas Z car swap. I bought the motor mounts online for a tad over 30 bucks, apparently made for an LS, then I had to chop on them ( doesn't look good )and then made 1/4" thick steel plates for them to bolt to and then plates for the K member. It is all being bolted togther, and will then be welded when done. Next is taking the spare K member and strapping it to the engine in place, and cutting the remaining pieces and marking everything so I can take it to a shop and have it all welded. After that, sI will be doing a lot of cleanup on them to make them look pretty and then the Atlas will be ready to drop in! Once it's in, then everything will be bolted on to it. My remanufactured AR5 5 speed also arrived today, looks brand new.....no bellhousing, so I have to swap the old bellhousing on, and box up the old tranny to send back for the core charge....they are paying the shipping! Pics:

Started work on the motor mounts for the Atlas Z car swap. I bought the motor mounts online for a tad over 30 bucks, apparently made for an LS, then I had to chop on them ( doesn't look good )and then made 1/4" thick steel plates for them to bolt to and then plates for the K member. It is all being bolted togther, and will then be welded when done. Next is taking the spare K member and strapping it to the engine in place, and cutting the remaining pieces and marking everything so I can take it to a shop and have it all welded. After that, sI will be doing a lot of cleanup on them to make them look pretty and then the Atlas will be ready to drop in! Once it's in, then everything will be bolted on to it. My remanufactured AR5 5 speed also arrived today, looks brand new.....no bellhousing, so I have to swap the old bellhousing on, and box up the old tranny to send back for the core charge....they are paying the shipping! Pics:

4200 engine update. Progress pics of my intake. almost ready to go to the polisher!

4200 engine update. Progress pics of my intake. almost ready to go to the polisher!

more pics the next morning

tonight I pulled the tape, it had cured enough, it will continue to harden even more. This is not "just filler" or bondo.....it is 80% aluminum filings and 20% resin. It will not shrink, it will not crack, it is hard as a rock. They poured resin over the Pharaoh Tutankhamun's body, and 3500 years later, to get him out of his coffin they had to chip him out......so it is permanent. ALL METAL Filler. wear gloves! It reacts on skin and burns like there is acid in it.

I started at dark this morning, and got the seats, center console and dash out of the 260Z. prepped the holes in dash and they are now plugged and curing. then I took some time and just gutted the whole area, to include the dash. Finished at 1:40 this afternoon.

Today I got a good start on the engine compartment, and also fitted the brass oil port screws to the 4200 block. The engine compartment will be factory color, with clear coats, and the engine compartment will be shaved, I also went ahead and bought a rewiring kit for the car form Jeg's.

I started the day with some kitty litter and cleaned up a big oil spot from the gear oil int he transmission when I pulled her out....yeah I didn't drain it. So, the brass fittings I bought to go into the side of my 4200 block for the oil ports I bought from Auto Meter. They were almost long enough to thread in. Then I noticed there is a stepped portion at the base of the threads. I used my die grinder carefully and ground that down, then I was able to get them in and gooped them up with pipe thread sealant to make it worry free. Then I was able to locate a bolt that would thread into the port on the side of the oil filter boss. I cut it down so it would tighten up flush, then drilled the center out. Once I get my 1/8" NPT tap I will tap it and it will become the supply for an oil pressure gauge.

Well my air dam and rear spoiler for my 260Z came in from Motorsport Auto (MSA) today! Replaced my new engine hoist that bent under weight at Harbor Freight, and finished up the turbo manifold header wrap for the 4200. Pretty cool day!

Well my air dam and rear spoiler for my 260Z came in from Motorsport Auto (MSA) today! Replaced my new engine hoist that bent under weight at Harbor Freight, and finished up the turbo manifold header wrap for the 4200. Pretty cool day!

10-15-2025. Busy morning in the garage. My 260Z gave up its engine and trans to make way for a future ATLAS install. And yes, it fought me A LOT. My new Harbor Freight hoist gave out midway through, but I got it to limp along with 2 floor jacks and a neighbor guy to basically wrestle it out. From now on, engine only....no more transmission attached for me. Yep....I cut the firewall bracing. It was my plan to do so anyway, and to reinforce and make it removable. I measured before cutting it and sure enough it widened 1/4 inch after cut. After I have made the brackets for re-installing the piece, I will simply use a ratchet strap to pull it back to the correct distance and bolt it in with grade 8 bolts. All nice and pretty. reinforced with thick plate steel. Inside the tubing I will put a spacer for the bolt to go through so when tightened it will keep the tubing from buckling. We move forward!

Thanks jhm. Probably get a lot of mean looks taking such a clean shell and making a hot rod out of it.

That's Merle. He still has it. He got it running, and all is well. In the 6 cylinder portion of this webpage is the build of my 4.2. got a good start on the header wrap for the 4200 today. ran out so waiting for more.