A to Z

well, the fun of driving the Z car will go WAY down if you keep an auto trans instead of a manual. I have had both. Manual all the way. At least for a Z car....muscle car would be different.

what elevation are you at? The stock SU needles are a compromise between power and emissions to a point. "SM" needles are a performance needle set. they give more fuel at higher RPM's. Being a L28 engine, it IS larger than the factory L24 engines these carbs were intended for and that may be at least some of the cause if not THE cause. When installing the needles there is a process to make sure they are installed just right. I would recommend some SM needles. Try "Z Car Depot". Did your setup ever pull to 6K or has it always been like this?

A lot of progress! finding the motivation to keep going is key. A lot of projects stall and never get finished.

Wow. Good job. that's a lot of work!

Congrats. The shell appears to need a "strip and dip" if possible. If not, then you will have to figure out how you will deal with the level of rust you have. KlassicFab Vintage JDM is the place to get replacement sheetmetal Skillard is a great place for things like a custom dash, etc. If you go on Facebook, there are also many pages that are worthwhile. If you wish I can name them for you. "S30 life" is a good place to start The engine has the flat top carburetors which is a 1973-1974 thing. Either the engine with carbs was swapped in or it came that way. I would think August is a bit early in the 1972 year to see them, but it is what it is. I personally would make sure the title is free and clear before proceeding very far.

IGNITION. Check your timing. Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance. Shoot for 18-20 degrees advance at idle. Have you sync'd the carbs? are oyu getting any popping if you rev to 4000 and let off the gas and down shift? If it is a lean condition, you may need some "SM" carb needles.

Thanks, just dealing with some carburetor woes, not a big deal. I will do some cleaning and detailing before calling it 100% complete.

Boy, someone butchered the heck out of your console!

03-08-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: As the carb is still at the shop, I did a few other things today. I received the reproduction Fuse box console cover, and moved all the factory attachments to the new plate and reinstalled, then I worked on the cover of the wiring exposed in the passenger side trans tunnel. The material is a faux leather material I got on eBay as well as a button kit. After figuring out how the buttons are installed, I then held the upholstery in and kept trimming it with scissors until I had the pattern I wanted and then added the snaps. I had to use tape, and tools, wood block etc. to hold them in place as the Gorilla glue dried, so in looking at the pics you will see the tools being used moved as they are being used to hold the snaps in place while the glue dries. Lastly, I had to make a trip to Lowes for additional hardware, but was able to get the upgraded fuel pressure regulator setup installed and sealed up with thread sealing dope. See pics attached. Cheers!

Sure. The end result is to avoid twisting of the unibody. Many ways it can be done.

yeah, Bad Dogs I hear are good, and that you can put them over the factory ones, but if the factory ones are rusty, then they need to be repaired/patched first or removed and replaced with these. I I think they way blok did his with thick heavy steel is probably the ultimate (the youtube link I posted earlier).

The only cutting that should be required is above each wheel well to get the proper fitment of the Rocket Bunny kit and the correctly sized wheels and tires.

Doesn't the factory baffling wall work sufficiently? I am asking as I thought it was sufficient as is.

looks like you have a good start on it. My concern would be the rails. they made need to be patched, and using a V8, and modified at that, BEEFY rails would be a good idea. Some guys have even using thick steel runs of pipe that are U channel . I attached pics of my car and some of the patching done. MY car had 45K original miles and 30 years of its life sitting in an airplane hanger and I STILL had to fix the rails. I attached a close up pic I got from one of your pics, and it already looks like it needs attention. here is a link to watch :

Please, pics!

I don't know if you have ridden in modified Z cars, but 240Z's are LIGHT. 320 to the wheels it's basically a widow maker. Overkill on power is overkill on power. You reach a point where more power is useless, as you can't put it down, and the car is already dangerous as-is. It's a street car. With the power level you are talking about, additional bracing is necessary in the subframe and rails. Do you like reliability? Stock=reliability, modifying it for 40-50 horsepower could take away the reliability. stock 370Z engine is fine power wise bone stock for a 240Z. A lot of the modern cars with all the horsepwoer....that's in a car that weights OVER 4000 pounds. 2 tons. Completely different deal. Your weight is about half of those. Be sensible. Live Longer. And this setup....stock brakes are NOT good enough, nor is a stock suspension.

03-01-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE. Carb is out with John at V-Performance being gone through again, as something I can't find is wrong. At any rate, I used the day to get back in the car, and go through the wiring. The Water/Meth injection pump wasn't coming on like it's supposed to. I did some rewiring and changed the point where my switch is in line with the main power to the pump instead of the relay switching power. IT WORKS! So all is cleaned up now and I snapped a pic. I think I am going to get a piece of black leather or vinyl and cut out a flap that will cover some of the setup on the side of the tunnel, cover the wiring so I can still see my stuff, but all the wiring is hid a little better. I also wired in a very small amber light that comes on to let me know when the pump is running and providing water/methanol. I Tightened up the motor mounts I had left loose for insulating the brake master cylinder area, and cut out 2 plates of aluminum to cover some spots on the firewall. I normally polish them then install......later I can quickly take them off, polish them to match the others and quickly re-install. I also happened to notice my fan belt snapped, so I ran down and got another. Weird that it was worn out in 500 miles, but then the guy at Oreilley's was reading about it, and said the belt I was using was for under 1 horsepower usage. I had picked it originally as it was the right length and size for what I need.....I put another new one on for now and will need to find the same size in a fan belt that is heavy duty and won't wear out. Anyone know of a place that makes them out of Kevlar fiber? Anyway, that was today. I just need the carb back and then go to the muffler shop to tie the exhaust together and the project will be done. Fine tune and maybe DYNO test. Pics follow

Thanks for taking the time to post. Very cool. Proof you can never have too many clamps!

I have received warnings about this psi regulator. So, I ordered one from Summit racing to replace it.

once I got it out, it had some deep teeth marks, I had to take a file and smooth it back up. Painted it and then installed as I mentioned. It had been in there for 50 years, it was "permanently seated" basically.

I removed the pipe from a block with a pipe wrench. Put the wrench on close to the block so as to not crimp the tubing, Strike the handle of the pipe wrench with a hammer, then push and use a pulling motion as you push it around, it will eventually come out. When re-installing put a piece of wood over the front of the pipe and use a hammer.

02-22-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: Well I managed to get the pressure regulator and gauge on. I then fiddled with the carb a bit and got it started. The carb just needs work that I can't do. I don't have the hand dexterity anymore to deal with little parts. So, It is going back to V-Performance to go through it and make some changes....the pilot screw, which is normally 2 turns out, is 1/2 of 1 turn out to get it to start without starting fluid, so there will have to be some adjustments made. I tried to work on the carb, but I was just screwing it up, so out it goes. Pics attached.

why is this an issue? There is nothing for a larger one to hit is there?

02-20-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: So, when it is about 7 degrees outside and you have some small things to get done, you do it inside I guess. Carb issues. Brand New carb, but some small issues have arisen that I have to address. the pilot jet and main jet appear to be plugged, as the engine only runs if you pump the gas, as the accelerator pump is squiring fuel with every pump, and it won't idle. So a small piece of wire and some carb cleaner spray should be able to handle that. Secondly, the float bowl overflow tube is leaking gas. So, I will shortly go out and remove the carb, remove the float and clean it out so the float will turn off without any debris keeping it from shutting off, AND there is the possibility that I am pushing a tad too much fuel pressure at it. I went ahead and ordered a pressure regulator and gauge on amazon, and a 20 micron fuel filter I will install right before the fuel goes into the carb. from what I understand, this motorcycle carb likes 2.5 to 3 psi of fuel pressure. This should do the trick. At any rate I got the threads all seal taped up and have it ready for install. Pics to follow. Cheers!

I have been following on YouTube. GREAT job!