A to Z

04-11-2023 UPDATE: Ok, So I went ahead and took the engine off the stand and put it on an old tire with some blankets to protect the oil pan, and then installed the engine plate, and my new Exedy 240mm flywheel and OEM grade 2+2 clutch kit. I used the Automatic Trans to Manual Trans adapter kit from Godzilla Raceworks, and as you can see from the pics, I tried the wrench with bolts idea to hold the engine still and torqued the bolts down to 110 ft lbs. with blue locktite on the Nissan bolts. I then grabbed the transmission and installed the shift fork rubber boot and the shift fork and throwout bearing which was all part of the Godzilla conversion kit. I went ahead and put wheel bearing grease on the shaft, inside the sleeve and wear points, and then it was time to get the trans on. It took a bit of wiggling and getting it on about halfway, putting a long bolt in to help hold the weight, and then grab the tailshaft and rock it up and down, and the splines finally lined up completely and on it went. I installed the 4 bolts to hold it on and then it was time for a bit of beautification. I put the rear block side plug in and cleared it, and then I used my wire wheel attachment again in my electric drill and cleaned up the portion of the transmission case that is seen from the engine compartment once installed, and then sprayed it with gloss clear engine block paint. Pics !

cross fingers and pray it all works!

04-11-2023 UPDATE: Ok, So I went ahead and took the engine off the stand and put it on an old tire with some blankets to protect the oil pan, and then installed the engine plate, and my new Exedy 240mm flywheel and OEM grade 2+2 clutch kit. I used the Automatic Trans to Manual Trans adapter kit from Godzilla Raceworks, and as you can see from the pics, I tried the wrench with bolts idea to hold the engine still and torqued the bolts down to 110 ft lbs. with blue locktite on the Nissan bolts. I then grabbed the transmission and installed the shift fork rubber boot and the shift fork and throwout bearing which was all part of the Godzilla conversion kit. I went ahead and put wheel bearing grease on the shaft, inside the sleeve and wear points, and then it was time to get the trans on. It took a bit of wiggling and getting it on about halfway, putting a long bolt in to help hold the weight, and then grab the tailshaft and rock it up and down, and the splines finally lined up completely and on it went. I installed the 4 bolts to hold it on and then it was time for a bit of beautification. I put the rear block side plug in and cleared it, and then I used my wire wheel attachment again in my electric drill and cleaned up the portion of the transmission case that is seen from the engine compartment once installed, and then sprayed it with gloss clear engine block paint. Pics !

a few changes....such as? Thanks.

04-08-2023 UPDATE: Engine complete. Ready to go in. Took a long time, had to go back and redo some things until I felt it was "right". BHD single groove harmonic balancer/pulley went right on. The Apex rear main seal is so much thicker and better constructed than the Nissan one, I had to swap them out real quick. AZC oil pan holes lined right up, no issues. A long day. See pics

04-08-2023 UPDATE: Engine complete. Ready to go in. Took a long time, had to go back and redo some things until I felt it was "right". BHD single groove harmonic balancer/pulley went right on. The Apex rear main seal is so much thicker and better constructed than the Nissan one, I had to swap them out real quick. AZC oil pan holes lined right up, no issues. A long day. See pics

Ok, understand, and thanks.

04-05-2023 UPDATE: I went ahead and put a couple Gloss clear coats on the oil pan to help keep it clean, and since we have a cold snap outside right now, I took all my intake parts inside and put them together. Ready to go!

04-05-2023 UPDATE: I went ahead and put a couple Gloss clear coats on the oil pan to help keep it clean, and since we have a cold snap outside right now, I took all my intake parts inside and put them together. Ready to go!

I might need to have the bare aluminum sticking up polished!

04-02-2023 UPDATE: My custom ordered BSPEED valvecover is now enroute from New Zealand to USA. I designed it with the owner. One off piece. Pricy!

My custom ordered BSPEED valvecover is now enroute from New Zealand to USA. I designed it with the owner. One off piece. Pricy!

Ok, the manual says to put RTV in there....you are saying not to? I would think the Water pump should be sufficient. It's a factory pump. This is a street engine. Thanks.

03-31-2023 UPDATE; Engine Assembly. Today I had a 13 hour marathon to get the engine together. I ran out of some parts I thought I had, so I ordered them, but it is almost complwetely together. Ran out of head bolts (the short ones) , and can't find my engine oil pickup, so I had to buy another one on eBay, and my rear main, the side seals that you push down in on the sides to get a tight seal. Some places sell just the seals, others sell the seals and the metal strips that go beside them in there. I don't know if you need the metal strips or not, so I went ahead and got the metal strips along with the side seals. I had put RTV selalant in the grooves a bit and along the cap bottom edge like the manual says....so when I put these strips in there, the RTV will already be hard. I had some issues.....just part of the game I suppose.. Pic heavy, enjoy.

Thanks. I hope she is back up soon as well.

03-31-2023 UPDATE; Engine Assembly. Today I had a 13 hour marathon to get the engine together. I ran out of some parts I thought I had, so I ordered them, but it is almost complwetely together. Ran out of head bolts (the short ones) , and can't find my engine oil pickup, so I had to buy another one on eBay, and my rear main, the side seals that you push down in on the sides to get a tight seal. Some places sell just the seals, others sell the seals and the metal strips that go beside them in there. I don't know if you need the metal strips or not, so I went ahead and got the metal strips along with the side seals. I had put RTV selalant in the grooves a bit and along the cap bottom edge like the manual says....so when I put these strips in there, the RTV will already be hard. I had some issues.....just part of the game I suppose.. Pic heavy, enjoy.

03-27-2023 UPDATE. Well, I got my Engine parts back from J&S Polishing today.

03-27-2023 UPDATE. Well, I got my Engine parts back from J&S Polishing today.

03-25-2023 UPDATE. Cylinder head day. It took all day.....really gave me grief.:( BUT....I got it all done. I started by installing my new valves and then using some lapping compound and a lapping tool, and l got all the valves and the seats "used to each other". I then removed the valves in the same order, and then began the process of cleaning the whole head up.......this was a chore.....old toothbrush, a shop cloth and several cans of brake cleaner, but it eventually came clean. I then installed the cam towers and cam, and began putting both inner and out valvesprings on with new hardware. I used the spring compressor tool from Z car depot. At 99 bucks it wasn't cheap, but it worked! Not having a bench or a vice, I had to set the head on the ground. I had to use one foot to hold the head steady, and then use the tool to compress the springs, and move the tool around as it was compressed so I could push the keepers in. The key was to put the keepers into the retainer, then put my finger over them as I compressed the springs, and push with my finger, as I was moving the tool and pushing on it to compress as far as possible, and then it worked. When you watch the video it looks easy.....and half of them went easy, but the other half......it was as if it was telling me it didn't want to do it or something, but I persevered. I then installed the rockers, but took the time to swap out a few rocker studs with the ones from my original head so I had the best ones in the head I am using. As I was installing the stuff, I was spraying it off with brake cleaner. Then once all assembled, I sprayed out the valley again really good. Lastly, I taped off everything, and then wiped off the outside with a wet wipe, then gave it a coat or two of my Duplicolor Clear Engine Paint. When I cleaned the head exterior with a wire brush a week or so ago, it gave it a nice shine, and I wanted to keep that. The clear will hopefully do that. So tomorrow, I will strip off the tape and wrap the head up in a garbage bag and go for it on the block. time to get this thing rolling! Pics

03-25-2023 UPDATE. Cylinder head day. It took all day.....really gave me grief.:( BUT....I got it all done. I started by installing my new valves and then using some lapping compound and a lapping tool, and l got all the valves and the seats "used to each other". I then removed the valves in the same order, and then began the process of cleaning the whole head up.......this was a chore.....old toothbrush, a shop cloth and several cans of brake cleaner, but it eventually came clean. I then installed the cam towers and cam, and began putting both inner and out valvesprings on with new hardware. I used the spring compressor tool from Z car depot. At 99 bucks it wasn't cheap, but it worked! Not having a bench or a vice, I had to set the head on the ground. I had to use one foot to hold the head steady, and then use the tool to compress the springs, and move the tool around as it was compressed so I could push the keepers in. The key was to put the keepers into the retainer, then put my figner over them as I compressed the springs, and push with my finger, as I was moving the tool and pushing on it to compress as far aas possible, and then it worked. When you watch the video it looks easy.....and half of them went easy, but the other half......it was as if it was telling me it didn't want to do it or something, but I persevered. I then installed the rockers, but took the time to swap out a few rocker studs with the ones from my original head so I had the best ones in the head I am using. As I was installing the stuff, I was spraying it off with brake cleaner. Then once all assembled, I sprayed out the valley again really good. Lastly, I taped off everything, and then wiped off the outside with a wet wipe, then gave it a coat or two of my Duplicolor Clear Engine Paint. When I cleaned the head exterior with a wire brush a week or so ago, it gave it a nice shine, and I wanted to keep that. The clear will hopefully do that. So tomorrow, I will strip off the tape and wrap the head up in a garbage bag and go for it on the block. time to get this thing rolling! Pics

3-24-2023 UPDATE: Today was the day to pick up all my stuff at the machinist. I took a couple photos at the shop then brought it home and got it back on the engine stand. I then went ahead and tapped the new pilot bearing in, and installed my Redi-Sleeve with Loctite 640. I then removed the excess with some diagonal pliers and the carefully went over the edges with a hammer....light taps.....then I installed the rear seal. USE A FACTORY SEAL. It is really nice quality and pre lubed. Still having some time, I masked off the block and painted it with "Old Ford Blue" duplicolor engine paint. Then after I removed the masking tape I painted over the core plugs and engine ID plate with duplicolor clear engine paint. Pics heavy, but here are some.

3-24-2023 UPDATE: Today was the day to pick up all my stuff at the machinist. I took a couple photos at the shop then brought it home and got it back on the engine stand. I then went ahead and tapped the new pilot bearing in, and installed my Redi-Sleeve with Loctite 640. I then removed the excess with some diagonal pliers and the carefully went over the edges with a hammer....light taps.....then I installed the rear seal. USE A FACTORY SEAL. It is really nice quality and pre lubed. Still having some time, I masked off the block and painted it with "Old Ford Blue" duplicolor engine paint. Then after I removed the masking tape I painted over the core plugs and engine ID plate with duplicolor clear engine paint. Pics heavy, but here are some.

03-23-2023 UPDATE: Today I picked up some items I had sent for powdercoating. Intakes in Bronze, Gloss black on the Carb heat shield, metal fuel lines, Air cleaner (both pieces) and brackets for the fuel lines. Oh, and the grill in Gloss Black. Now awaiting my SU carb tops and the balancing tube at the polishers. PICS.

3-17-2023 UPDATE: I went ahead and painted the timing cover silver and then top coated it with clear...then worked on the head some more. I finally managed to get the valves out. They measured a 1 5/8 (42mm) on the intake and 1 3/8 (35mm) on the exhaust. Weird. So, It doesn't have 280Z intake valves....the story I was told onthis head when I bought it gets stranger and stranger. The exhaust valves ARE bigger than stock though. Well, you can see the porting done in person. I went ahead and decided to just get all new valves and and inner springs, to go with the new outer srings I had, and new keeper and retainers as well. I kept the rockers and lashpads etc. in the exact same order, so the cam will have the surfaces it is already used to. pics:

03-13-2023 UPDATE. Several things going on today. My new valvesprings and NOS Nissan valve stem seals arrived, so I can now finish up my head. I bought a valve lap kit, and will go over the valves lap them in just to make them completely fresh, then install the "A" cam I have with the matching rockers for each lobe and lashpads, and use my YOST oil spray bar. I also dropped off the items I had prepped for either powdercoating or polishing. The SU carb tops, the crossover pipe and the thermostat top and bracket are at the polishers. I dropped off my intakes, the grill and carb heat shield at the powdercoaters. I believe I will drop off my air box tomorrow as well. I debated replacing the air box, or painting it myself back to orange, or going with a nice glossy black powdercoat. Gloss black has won out. I like the factory air box the best. So, the grill, heat shield, and air box will be powdercoated gloss black, and the Intakes will be a light bronze in a satin finish to give it the "magnesium look". The front cover and fuel lines will be painted by myself instead of powdercoating. I can get them the way I want and save the money. Everything is expensive now! I also spun by Whistler machine here in town to pick up an assortment of screw in plugs for the intakes as I removed the heat pipe, and a couple in the crossover pipe and still some that I didn't care for the look of. And as I mentioned, I picked up the roof today from Junkyard Jenny's in Ft. Lupton, Colorado. It came off of a 260Z that was actually way too nice to have been parted out....breaks the heart. Also found out the machine shop is done with the block except clearancing....so very soon, the engine will come together and we can get it all back to running again.