A to Z
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Posts posted by A to Z
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7-14-2022 UPDATE: I had a few hours to burn so...why not?
I went out and wet sanded the remaining panels to buff out and wax with wet 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper, and I managed to finish hand buffing and waxing them except the tail and lower tail panel. So, the windshield posts, the rest of the roof cowl panel are finished....oh! and the replacement access panel. I also took a razor blade and removed all the overspray from the glass. Here are some pictures. 
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Thanks Chuck!
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If I install the 510 torque converter without modifying it, it would raise the stall speed about 400-500 RPM which SHOULD be ok.
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7-10-2022 UPDATE: A lot of pics of the final product. These pics are of more panels being final hand rubbed out and then waxed with the Pure Cranauba Wax (Mcguires Gold Paste Wax). Picture heavy, but kinda cool to look at. Almost done.
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Thanks, Ken.
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7-4-2022 UPDATE: I started the day by washing the Z and the floor, and then the garage door, as it gets dirt and dust etc. from sanding on it. I then Started the process of hand rubbing the paint, doing any minor paint corrections and then applying a coat of wax. McGuires compound works really well, and I was able to ensure the surface was clean and smooth before breaking out the McGuires gold paste wax. When you touch it now it is soft and smooth like butter. I was able to get both front fenders done, as well as both headlight buckets and the hood. The pics I am attaching are high in count, this is because I save all of this for future records. So, if it seems a tad redundant, sorry. Any imprefections you see can and will be addressed at a later date. I ended the day by shaking out some blankets to cover what has been done. My intention is to go to Walmart and get 2 king size sheets which I will use as a cover for it. I am not a fan of the elastic band in the bottom of car covers. The body and paint portion of this build has taken too long, and I am now pushing it forward. I am completely exhausted with body and paint work. After all the pics, there is a short video if you wish to watch as well. Take care and God bless. Jesus saves.
link to video:
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7-3-2022 UPDATE. SO, I went out to the garage today with the intent to finish the buffing. I believe I have succeeded. Any parts left can be done by hand, and will be, as I go panel to panel, doing that and then waxing it. Again, using the Meguire's Gold Paste Wax, which is pure caranauba. When I did my Msutang with it, it is smooth as butter. I took some pics and 2 video's. I will try to get the videos to load, if they don't I will provide a link where the video's CAN be seen. Cheers!
P.S. I do NOT like doing body and paint! I think I have said that before already.
Video #1 (12) Facebook
Video #2 (13) Facebook
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Today the 510 converter arrived, and by making some calls, I found a shop in Denver that rebuilds converters. A quick call told me for around 100 bucks they will cut the converter open, rebuild it....bearings and stuff I imagine and seal it back up all nice and clean. When I asked about adjustments for raising the stall, he told me "yes, we can tweak the plates a bit"....so I could also have them add a hair to the 510 converter as well! With any luck we're talking 2800 to 3000 RPM....which would put it right in the torque sweet spot. The main question is, what would a Z drive like around town, and cruising with a 2800-3000 stall? Would it create more friction and wear just cruising, would it be kinda like driving around slipping the clutch all the time? Comments welcome. The address to the converter shop is:
Branting Industries
5280 W. 56th Ave.
Arvada, Colorado
(303)425-9004
Seems to be a fairly quick turn around, although he did tell me he was swamped with business.
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I am one of the lucky ones who ended up with a 1972 240Z that received a large sunroof early in it's life.
There are definitely positives to it....cross flow ventilation, but it does screw up the lines a tad.
Well the other day I was looking at carbon fiber roofs,and the thought came to me, what if the carbon fiber roof was neatly trimmed around the edges and bonded on, thereby hiding the hole, and then clear coating the cabon fiber? On the inside it would be just replace the headliner center portion.
Opinions/comments?
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Wow, a lot of good comments and info....we obviously have well educated and experienced folks on here.
For me, I care about looks. For my 240Z I went with BRE front and rear. Since Pete Brock offers an new updated rear spoiler that is taller, maybe that is what you need. But for me, I like the front "spook" spoiler and the original BRE rear spoiler. Yes it has 6 contact points, which I think is a good thing......If you ever want to drive it at any kind of speed, you will need the extra bracing to keep it on!
I will be adding some flexible "ZG STYLE" bolt on flares I found on eBay that will give me some coverage on my wheels since I do have "poke out"...1 inch front 2 inch rear.
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Thanks. I will, very happy so far, I am terrible at body and paint, but I am almost to a point that I can live with.
If I could do it over again, I would have disassembled the car to a point, and taken it to a shop for a paintjob, even MAACO, just someone to do it for me. I do not like doing it. A local paint supply store here in town has a list of names of guys they will refer people to, to get it done by someone who "does it on the side". Lesson learned. At any rate, I HAVE leanrned, which was one thing I knew I would gain.
Also, not sure if I will paint my flares. I may keep them black with black welting, at least mount them up and see before I paint the flares body color with the black welting to separate them and set it off.
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On 6/27/2022 at 7:34 AM, Dat73z said:
Looks good keep it up 👍
Some tips on the buffing: the tools and compounds you use makes a huge difference. I think 10 or 15 yrs ago I tried wetsanding and buffing a car at home with turtle wax and a drill like you're using. It was extremely difficult and I got poor results, burnthrough in areas as well. At the shop we used a rotary, wool pad, and 3m compound for freshly painted cars.
Ended up buying a cheap porter cable DA and a bottles of meguiars m105/m205 for home use. I got pro level results and was able to do an entire car in a day. It was worth the cost and I still use the porter cable today. you probably know this since you're doing it but you don't want to go excessive on the compound as you want it to break down. You can spray the pad or panel with water if you need more cutting action or longer spot work times
Thanks for the tips.
No....I didn't know about not using excessive compound, nor about mater making it cut harder....I do now!
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Thanks Ken and Chuck. It's been a busy year on her! This will be the last one. No more car or bike builds. She is the keeper. I will continue to work and fiddle with her forever, so it never ends I suppose.
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6-26-2022 UPDATE. Buff.....Buff....Buff! The right hand side or passenger side got the attention today, to include the upper sail panel behind the quarter window. Buffing, then stopping and wet sanding, and some dry sanding, then back to the buffer...back and forth, and using a lot of compound. Still using the Turtle Wax stuff...I took a pic so you can see what I'm using so far. As I mentioned earlier, I will use the McGuires after this on final buffing with the red foam pad, which is for final buffing. The purple is the stiffest foam pad, and it is for REALLY cutting, and it WILL....you have to be careful! The orange pad is a middle of the road one, for "mild cutting"....it does the job ok. All of these are on an attachment that is used in my electric drill, and it causes enough drag, that I have to stop from time to time to let the drill cool down. Teaching yourself to do this, means learning, and that means going back and fixing areas, where you learn how to not push TOO hard, how to hold it against the panel.....how much throttle to use, to control the RPM's. etc. That said, I AM making progress. Still 2 steps forward, 1 step back, and yes, body and paint work is getting old now.... ready to get this done and move on to other things. Takes a long time when you are teaching yourself. And that brings to mind my beef with these shows and videos that show how to do this stuff. They give you the false sense of believing it is all easy and straight forward. It is not. It takes a "feel"...and that can't be gained by watching a video, it takes experience. That goes from beginning bodywork, all the way to buffing. Off the soapbox. Whew! And yes, you are seeing the end results of doing a rattle can paint job with enamel paint. (Rustoleum Enamel~ if it doesn't say "ENAMEL" then it isn't. It's lacquer. Do NOT use that stuff! At any rate, here are some pics and a video at the end to go with coffee. Take care.
Click under here for video. It won't let me load it on here, so this link takes you to facebook. Click on the pictures in the writeup....the last one is the video. I think the video is too long for here, I tried 3-4 times and gave up.
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6-25-2022 UPDATE. Well........OK. Started buffing. As I go, when I have a spot that isn't quite shiny, I grab a piece of 2000 grit wet it, and sand it, then polish, repeat until shiny, then keep on going. I got the rear hatch good, most of the roof, and most of the hood. Once I am done, I will go over the areas again with the fine foam pad and McQuire's. Right now I am using the middle pad with The Turtle Wax compound. I have tried the hardest pad on a couple of rough spots and now have a feel for when it can be used in tough spots as well. Couple spots I had to paint when the color sanding went through. Here are pics so far.
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I put looks over functionality this time. 15X8 -25 front, 15X9 -38 rear, (wheels at are 0...final negative is with with spacers) to restore my backspacing for my stock spring perches AND get the "poke out" I wanted. I will be adding my flares later on....ZG type, but flexible, ao I can make them contour to the original wheel well edge. Then I can back off the screws enough to mask off around them, and mask the bolts, paint them, and put my fender welting in, then tighten screws down once dry. Welting is old VW bettle welting on a roll. Flares will be matching white. Tires, 225/45ZR15 front, rear 245/40ZR15 Hankook Ventus R-S4 dry weather tires. It's a weekend cruiser/toy. Once car is back up, it will go in for alignment. Ever since I was young, I always dreamed of having a Z that was flared with spoilers.....so I decided that life is short enough, I should do it the way I want, without later regret.
here is a pic to show my desired look:
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6-24-2022 UPDATE: I got the tires mounted on the new Mesh wheels. put 2 wheels on to mock it up real quick......obviously need to take all the stickers and stuff off the sidewalls. These tires are directional....and becasue I am running a Staggered tire setup, there is no tire rotation! Here are a few pics.
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From the reading I have been doing, it appears that given a certain torque converter, that if you put it into a more powerful engine, that torque converter will actually stall HIGHER. Not sure how that works, but if that holds to be true....then a stall converter from a 510 that had the factory stall of 2200 RPM, will stall about 2500 or more approximately in a L24/240Z ! I was able to get a used converter today form a guy who pulled it from a 1972 510 wagon for a good deal. I will clean it up and see what happens. Of course the Stage III shifter will go in as before. Results to follow!
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I did some part number cross referencing.
The part number for a PL510 torque converter is 31100-X0301
The part number for 240Z torque converter is 31100-X0500
So, there IS a difference! That means that a PL510 torque converter will flare higher, or stall quite a bit higher than the stock 6 cylinder one.
The part number for the Z is 1970-1978. So 240, 260, 280 used the same one. The big differnce is in the 1981-1983 TURBO cars. They stall a bit higher than the naturally aspirated ZX cars. Naturally aspirated 2200 RPM or so, Turbo 2700 RPM or so.
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Ok, well, I have found more information to post. Comes fromt eh Ratsun forum, in particular the Admin over there, "datzunmike". cool info:
Quote: "JATCOs were installed on April '71 and on 510s at about the time they switch from column to floor shift so you're ok there.
The Z and ZX did use the same converter and it's a different part number than the 510 but also used in most 4 cylinder 710/610 A10 S10 even the 620 truck so probably all the same. The biggest difference would be the number of clutches and plates inside.
However!!! The 280zx turbo automatic was much different. It had extra plates and clutches and a modified vacuum diaphragm for firmer shifts to contain the turbo power. (I think the internal line pressure relief spring was also stiffer for higher pressure) The internal first and second gears were also different and lower.
Regular 3N71B
2.456
1.458
1.000
280zx turbo 3N71B
2.841
1.542
1.000.... this gets the engine and turbo spooling faster.
Here's the kicker. The stall speeds is increased on the zx converter from 2,200-2,300 to 2,400- 2,700. Again to spool the turbo faster at a lower vehicle speed." /UNQOUTE
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R_3.....update?
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Here is a copy of the sheet I filled out for TCE to come up with a good torque converter.
The specs are stock L24 with an E31 head.
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6-21-2022 UDATE. Further progress on getting the paint ready for final buffing, passenger side ready, driver's side 99% ready, hood ready, cowl painted, will be ready in a week, give the paint time to harden. The dented access door is already addressed, it's repalcement is awaiting a quick color sand and buff as is the gas door. Making progress. Here are some more "in progress" pics.
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I did a writeup on Automatic Transmission performance for Z cars. Feel free to check it out. Here is a link:
Joe's 1972 240Z adventure
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Thanks Ken. 99% done on body and paint. It has been a killer. A LOT of work. Ready to move forward!