A to Z
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Posts posted by A to Z
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Thanks Ken. Finally moving forward.
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3-15-2022 UPDATE: Final wash today. Now mask and paint. 1/2 the car is already painted, epoxy the rockers, hood tip and headlight buckets, touch up the white where needed and then clear, clear, clear!
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Thanks. Put a real hold on everything. It comes back day after tomorrow. today 60+ degrees, tomorrow 54....then COLD.
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3-14-2022 UPDATE: I got out tothe garage for the first time in quite a while...Winter finally relented a bit.
I went ahead and gave the car a bath as well as the floor. After that, I went ahead and got the car back up on jackstands, but at max elevation with 4X4's under them. To make them wide enough, I sandwiched the 2 pieces with a 2X4 and screwed them together on the top with a steel plate across all the 3 pieces. Then I finished the little bit of work needed on the dog legs and rockers, and then got out my orbital sander and with 1000 grit paper and sanded the rest of the body that hasn't been painted and got it prepped for painting. Now my garage is dirty again :D.....but one more bath, and I can mask it off and get the body done. By getting it up as high as I did, I can next go ahead and cut out the rusty parts of the rails and then cut and prep the patches.....I will then have a mobile welder come over and weld them all in. I have the rail portions I bought for Klassicfab JDM I will use along with 16 ga. plate steel. 4 videos and some pics attached. Enjoy.
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Thanks, but I think I'm okay. I am crawling out of the deep pit I was in trying to get it done. The doglegs and rockers have been a BIG job.
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2-28-2022 UPDATE: I went ahead and blocked out by doglegs and rockers a bit more, and then sanded out the hole for my fuel filler. Afterwards I went ahead and tried the 2K primer. It worked AWFUL! Afterward, I tried the Duplicolor Primer Sealer, and it worked like I wanted the 2K to work! It filled in a lot with enough coats, and with maybe 3 small spots I need to add just a tad of glaze to with my finger and sand out, the rockers and doglegs are done! I also went ahead and painted the headlight buckets and the tip of the hood. Here are some pics and video's.
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This was actually fun! Started out a nice day, almost 50 out, then about 3:30 ish....oh man, here comes the wind, felt like it dropped 20 degrees, So, I set things up and closed the door, and used the shop light for navigation. It actually warmed up just enough to where it wasn't a concern. Didn't know my toes were numb until I came in at a tad past 7 p.m.! you wouldn't think an un-insulted garage could be warmer with the door closed, but it is! I could have easily kept going, but my birds need attention too, so... Hey! How come I NOW feel all sore from this! Geez! Take a shower, have some Bourbon and WHAM!
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when sanding this glaze with 180 grit, the sandpaper loads up so quick. You have to smack the block on the ground, and then hold the screwdriver by the shaft and smack the bottom with the handle to clean the sandpaper off!
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2-21-2022 UPDATE: Well, I managed to get a tad over 7 hours in today on the Z car. I pulled the headlights, and sanded the headlight scoops out. In the pic the left side if you look you can see I had to add some filler to the back lip, as it was missing. I had painted them and everything.....but you could see scratches through the paint, so I took them down and smoothed it out. Next, the tip of the hood had been repaired by a previous owner, and earlier I sanded it out and THOUGHT it would be good.....nope. You could see the clump of bondo through the paint, so I also sanded it and the hood across about 1 foot up....then used the new glaze. I then coated both dog legs and spots on both fenders at the bottom. Unlike the other stuff I have used, the glaze is ready to go FAST. It is awesome. It is runny, but so nice to work with....but with the hardener is in unforgiving.....like the can says, 2-3 minutes to get it on, then it's too late.
Cool thing is 15 minutes you can sand! I blocked out the hood and got it good to go. then moved over to the driver's side and sanded out the left dogleg and the lower front fender area. On this side, I have it about 90% ready. The passenger (right) side is about ready for final paint! I will have to add a bit more to finish it up. Then I went over to the right side and got it all sanded and blocked out. A couple little spots on that side, but I am now SO CLOSE to 2K primer and final paint I can feel it. Oh, yeah, my 2K primer came in, made by spray max, 2 part so it is catalyzed paint. I took some pics. BTW, it is amazing the amount of dust sanding this stuff puts off....man oh man! 
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I got to see you at ZCON, at the hotel at night when you were loading the Z car on the trailer we talked for a few seconds..
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Today I picked up some new Glaze. I was advised to get a glaze with hardener over the red spot putty. So I went ahead and bought this can, along with some 180 grit paper that was also recommended to block sand it out correctly. Both sides are all closed up and done....now it is just beautification being done....so taking a brake from the heavy grit paper and old fashioned Bondo Mud. A couple of mugs of Fat Tire is necessary to keep the motivation up after a shower to make the work acceptable to my old bones.
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2-15-2022 UPDATE: Ok, so I got out to the garage, and sanded down the doglegs with my orbital and 60 grit and then used a sanding foam block at 80 grit to fine tune areas, and then cleaned up and filler primer coated the doglegs the rockers and lower front fenders. It's in pretty good shape, but I am finding that the Bondo "borders" are bleeding through the paint! So, I read online, that what is needed is a "2K primer" which is an epoxy (i.e. wear respirator!!) that REALLY fills things in and works well, so I suppose I will be heading that route, although I can also see that I will be needing to do a tad bit of filling with Glaze and light sandpaper on one of my sanding blocks to get it really smooth! Here are a few pics. 🙂
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Thanks. I just want this one to turn out okay.
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2-14-2021 UPDATE. More dogleg work and rockers. I decided to go after the passenger (right) side first, then went over to the left. On the right side, I was able to sand the Bondo out smooth, and then I prepped and sprayed the area with filler primer. It showed that the scars on the dog legs visible, So I added a layer of glaze, and then a couple little spots of filler where needed. On the bottom of the dog leg, , I sanded it down, and found I needed a tad bit more mud to get it just right, so I added some mud there again as well. On the left side, I sanded down the all metal and then added a bit of sheet metal on the wheel well inner edge to level it out, and then covered the area with another coat of All Metal Filler to get it as good as possible before adding a top coat of Bondo to get it perfect. The rest of the dogleg I covered with a coat of mud (Bondo). I then sanded out the rest of the rocker area, and found I needed a coat of mud on the bottom of the front fender, and a couple spots on the rocker. I just have to wait for things to dry now.
I am attaching videos of it.
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NOW is the time to paint that exhaust manifold. VHT 1200 degree exhaust paint. I used their flat black on mine.
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2-9-2022 UPDATE: Ok, so I went out to the garage again for a little bit....spent all my time on the Left/driver's side dogleg. I initially started to remove the bolts....but then realized, they added extra strength, so why take them out? I put the screws back in, and took my die grinder and ground all the screw heads down REAL thin. I also found out while doing it, that the heads got cherry hot, and when they were hot, I could smooth them out with the grinder! Then I used the grinder to go over the center patch area, which brough both sides of sheet metal down more flush. By doing this you are tapering both sides down, and the ends are real thin, but are supported by the sheet metal behind it.
Then I started on repairing the wheel well edge again, grinding the bolts down flush. Using the Dremel as well as the die grinder I was able to get it real cleaned up. I then taped off the body line between the dogleg and the rocker panel and started applying All Metal Filler. once done, you pull the tape, and you have a nice clean line (see video). Now, once this is dry, I will use my orbital sander with 60 grit to smooth it all out, and then add Bondo. That will take at least 24 hours to dry. Any pin holes that show up after sanding will be filled with glaze and block sanded smooth. Feels good to see SOME progress. VERY time consuming, as every step almost is "wait 24 hours". I am used to making a lot of progress at a time, but this body work REALLY slows it down. Anyway here are a few pics and videos.
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Thanks for the encouragement. Some things are fun, some aren't. bending and shaping that metal was very hard....or tiring....laying on my side hammering. Gave me a sore arm for a day. It was fun initially, but every step requires 24 hours to cure...sometimes longer as it's cold, so it takes longer for stuff to dry....too cold to paint, so my hope is to get it as far as I can with the cold weather. Then it will be easy painting. I have to redo the headlight buckets, as I can see scratch lines in the paint, and the tip of the hood, theh filler is showing through and needs to be blocked smooth. Other than that, it is ready for some white and clear. The frame rails have a few spots to patch up, then the body and paint are done. Soon, I will be back to doing the fun stuff (to me at least).
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2-7-2022 UPDATE: Dogleg work again. The passenger side I sanded down smooth and added the layer of bondo to dry. Once dry it will be ready to be blocked and feathered down. On the driver's (left) side I went ahead and cut the patch panel to where I wanted it. I then held it up to the body and marked where I needed to cut to make ti fit correctly. Everything was going well until I looked at the bottom of the patch. All of the bends were off! I had to use tek screws and mount the piece, and then using a ball peen hammer, a 3/8' extension to beat on, and a screwdriver as well, I was able to form the piece a little at a time, screwing it down as I went. That was TOUGH! Once that was done, I removed the piece, painted it on the back side as well as painted the interior space with gloss black paint after cleaning it up a tad. I applied the bonding glue and re-attached the patch with the screws to hold it where it needed to be. Then I used a combination of JB Weld and All Metal Filler around the edges. It looks terrible, but once dry the screws will be removed and I can then sand it down, and get it ready for a thin coat of Bondo to be block sanded and feathered out. I attached a few pics and 2 videos. click the letters at the bottom of the last pic for the video's. Cheers!
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2-6-2022 UPDATE: Prepping a bit for a work day on the Z hopefully tomorrow. A portion of the inner wheel well down near the dogleg on my drivers (left) side is a bit chewed up from rust.....to I used the dogleg to make a template, so that I can patch the spot.
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2-3-2022 UPDATE: I got some orders in today. My Hung Vu Z car floormats with red Z, my left side dog leg from Mill Supply-Made in the USA, a Nissan factory valve cover gasket, and a Molotov Chrome paint pin in 4mm wide. Happy Happy!
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1-31-2022 update. 55 degrees, nice day for Z car time. Both Doglegs.....still working on them. Small steps. Used some scrap sheet metal to bend up a patch for the hole in the driver's side (left) dogleg inner panel. I attached it and then used the Dremel to turn the bolt heads into more like rivets. Before installing I did paint inside the hole and on the inside of the patch with gloss black. I also went ahead an Used All Metal Filler to seal around the edges, and patch some holes. Doesn't look very good now, but after it's cured, I will clean it up and paint the area black to seal it up and then get on attaching the new outer dogleg sheet metal. On the passenger (right) side, I used my orbital sander with 60 grit discs and get it all down smooth, but found that there was one area that needed a bit more work, so I added more All Metal Filler to that area, and will have to wait for it to cure. I also tried some more work with the Glaze, but made the mistake of trying to work it before it was cured.......so I am going to let the whole thing sit for at least a day or so before I continue the small snail's pace forward. It's pretty tiring even holding the orbital sander upside down and pushing it up to sand down there. Anyhow, here are a few pics and some video to watch. Cheers!
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I remove the rust with a Dremel into good metal, then fill the hole. Any rust hole only has cancer out a certain amount before the metal is good. When you use the Dremel.....the rusty metal present....it burns through it like butter, so fast! Then once you hit good steel, it slows WAY down. Small little rust holes usually get opened up on average 40-50% larger to get into the good metal. This is out of sight, out mind work, that once sealed up and repaired never sees the light of day again. Out the outside I will be installing an outer dogleg skin.
Larger holes are patched with sheet metal, with a finish coat of "All Metal Filler", which is 80% metal and 20% resin. Does not shrink, does not crack....it is the modern version of using lead. It used to be that the only way to properly fix anything was to use a MIG welder. But, over the years, many composites and glues have become so good, that many manufacturers, including BMW, now bond body panels on....no more welding. "All Metal Filler"is 20% Resin. Resin is so tough, after 3000 years, The Pharaoh Tutankhamun had to be forcibly chipped out of his casket, as his body was stuck inside.....they poured around the outside of his body with black resin thereby gluing him inside......and after all those years, it was still rock hard. THEN, add 80% aluminum filings so small, that what you end up with is essentially "liquid metal". So, the rust is removed, the metal treated, and then sealed up.
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All is proceeding well. "All-Metal" filler is a godsend. It is the modern equivalent of leading in a car! Bondo shrinks and leave air holes, whereas All metal leaves none, and it does not shrink ! It can be sanded and worked with 80 grit or stronger. I love the stuff. 80% aluminum filings, 20% resin. The Pharaoh Tutankhamun was buried 3500 years ago with resin in his final coffin. After all of these years, the resin was so hard that it required extensive chiseling to remove him. So yeah, Resin is TOUGH as hell. All Metal filler is "liquid metal". Don't like it? TOUGH.
Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted · Edited by A to Z
3-24-2022 UPDATE: So, I went ahead and painted the rest of the car. I started by masking off the pieces in the vicinity of where I still needed to paint, and then touched up a few areas with some sandpaper, then wiped it all down with Denatured Alcohol and started painting. I used the Epoxy Primer I ordered from Rustouleum over the areas that had lacquer sealer primer on them. This serves as a "bridge" to allow the Urethane color coat to stick. I then used the white custom mixed paint I got from www.expresspaint.com. After that, I buried it all in clear. I used the Rustoleum, as it is enamel, where most aerosols are lacquer, which is a no-no with urethane color coat. YES, it is covered in runs....the way it came out was runny, but I did succeed in putting ALOT on there, which is ok, as I am going to color sand it all down with 2000 grit on my orbital sander, a water spray bottle and a towel. The runs will just be sanded smooth with the rest. The rally stripe still has to be done. At any rate, I took a bunch of pics. I will put them on here as well. Cheers.