A to Z
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Posts posted by A to Z
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little soldering iron I got online for a few bucks. Actually works good!
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11-4-2021 update: So I went ahead and put the vent face and controls back in, finished the stereo pre-setup and got it in (still needs some exterior work on the face plate area) and I got the glove box door on with the skillard metal hinge kit. I also brought in the center console and some bits and gave them a soapy bath and they are ready to go. VERY close on the interior being done.
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11-2-2021. Dash is back in!
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11-1-2021 update. Today was the day I wanted to get everything ready to put back in. That means getting the heater box done, blower section done, dash done and ready to go for Tuesday. A tall order....and more work than I anticipated. By the grace of God I got it all done and ready for Tuesday God willing.
I started by taking the heater box apart, and using the brass wire attachment in my electric drill and then a piece of 150 grit sandpaper in my hand for the corners. Once it was cleaned up I sprayed it with gloss black paint, and went over to the blower and did the same. The paint dried pretty quickly, and I was able to assemble both and install in the car. of course, prior to that, I attached the new heater hoses, 3 in all, and upon inspection of the valve it works great, but was full of rusty red paste. So a screw driver, a rag and some time I it cleaned out, and the heater core was flushed and back flushed with running water until FINALLY the water wasn't RED.....about 90% clear water. Now, it's no fun when 2 bolts break off when putting the heater box and blower back in the car...but there are sufficient bolts to hold it in, so I continued onward. The Dash....changed out the gauge bulbs to the LED lights I bought, and found that the green inserts cant be pulled out, you have to disassemble them to get them out. So, I pushed them in and let them fall out of the way inside the gauges and installed the LED's. Worse case, I have to take the gauges out later to pick the pieces out, but I think there is a very good chance it will work just fine. Did some clean up on the frame and sprayed it with the Rust convert spray from Loctite, and then a coat of gloss black. So, tomorrow I attempt to get the dash back in.
Look at the crap that came out of the heater box.
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Thanks a lot!
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Yeah thanks. I sure hope those smells are gone. It was worth it just to get all of the dirt out. The dash cap turned out just like I hoped. Now I will do a clean up, treat some of the rust, and the LED lights for the dash arrived. I need to knock out the heater box and fan, and then put it all back in! Then the stereo!
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otice how gray the dash looks? Denatured Alcohol takes all oils out of it!
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apply the glue to the cap and install. I used clamps, but found that I didn't have enough....I was able to use duct tape wrapped and pulled tight to get it down as tight as I could. 24 hs. and it will be dry.
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wipe down everything with denatured alcohol
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sand up the surfaces where the glue will be applied
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Oct 29 2021 update. I went ahead and put the clock in my dash and put the dash 1/2 cap on. Jury is still out on if it will look okay. One more step towards putting all of it back in. Here are a couple pics.
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Oh, I found another pic of the dirt and junk from the fresh air vent. This is just the driver's side....the passnger side was the same. Glad it is done.
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Ready to go back together. Now to get the stuff restored, and then go back in! Contortionist days are over for a little bit.
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mice.....
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this is just some of what I pulled out....on just this side. The other side was the same. Those fresh air vents haven't seen fresh air in a LONG time!
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10-28-2021 UPDATE. Today was the day to pull the heater box and clean up the entire inside to get ready to put things back in when they are done. The fresh air vents on both sides were incredible. Absolutely STUFFED with dirt, pine needles, and mouse house stuff. the pic of the pile of stuff is just one side, NOT both! I also found more evidence that the little buggers were in there, the pics will show some of it. The before and after don't look like much, but it was a LONG day cleaning and cleaning. Oh yeah, the top vent for the heater intake in the cowl was rusty but no holes, I cleaned it up and painted it with some black I had. I could have masked it off I guess, but it is completely out of sight when the dash is back on. The portion in front of the passenger footwell, is where I used duct tape to fix the cracked and split insulation. By painting it back, it actually looks okay now. Here are some pics.
First the beginning:
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I have a half dash cap I am going to use.
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LED Dash lights.
Easy on the original wiring, less heat....AND much brighter?
Jim Jeffers told me where he got his and gave me the part numbers. So I went and got some!
You need:
7 of the BA9S-W-120-12VAC for the gauge lights (substitute the W with WW if you want warm white), 2 of the BA9S-G4-90-12 VAC for the turn signal sights in the dash, 1 of the BA9S-R-90-12VAC for the red BRAKE light in the dash, and 1 of the BA9S-B4-90-12VAC for the blue light in the dash for high beams on. THANKS AGAIN to Jim Jeffers for all the great info! Now to figure out the dome light, map light, tail lights, parking lamps, etc! As a retired electrician, I LOVE the idea of less heat on those vintage wires.
LED Lights, Bulbs & LED Lighting Accessories | superbrightleds.com
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10-26-2021 UPDATE: Ok, I decided to heck with it and pull the whole dash! As I started I kept trying to talk myself out of it, but persistence pays off. As I am an old guy, and 6'2 and 250 LBS. there is no room.....it took me 4-5 hours, cut the hands up a bit but it is out! SO GLAD!!!! let me add a few..!!! I found a TON of dirt and crud in there.....I used the Klein Tools wire numbering kit to number everything. When you run out of numbers then you double up the numbers. The idea is that you don't spend the next 6 months un-crossing wires to get things working again. I want to say....there are a lot of guys giving absolutely GREAT info on doing this (google search), But I will add a few things to keep in mind. 1. It is NOT as easy as it sounds....2. You MUST mark everything. wait....I am being serious, mark it!..... And the best thing to do is, when it is 99% done....sit on the trans tunnel, and pull the dash out 8-10 inches and set it on your leg, and then mark and unplug the last stuff.....knowing, that you will, of course, put a blanket over the steering column and put it back together in reverse of this. NOW....you HAVE to , yes HAVE TO drop the steering column...at least on a 1972....the dash is bolted to it. Those bolts are 12mm.....everything else is 10mm....and THANK GOD there are no Torx bolts....all are Phillips or 10mm. You just have to be patient and mark every darn thing. WHEW!!!!! Well, I took SOME pics, hope they entertain. I tell you there was at least 2 inches of dirt and crap on top of the radio....the pic is AFTER I moved some of it. I had no idea....thus I am SUPER glad I pull the whole shebang. Now, I can address things such as .....LED gauge lights? (easier on the factory wiring) Heater hoses and valves? Eliminate ANY rust in the heater box AND blower assembly..any questions, PLEASE ask....I was SO hesitant to do this. IF A/C is on your mind AT ALL.....NOW is the time to make that decision. Let's do this ONE time, and do it correctly gents.
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Thanks! I sure hope so.
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here is a pic of the drivers floor area after paint:
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10-18-2021 update. Well my "goal" for today was to get the inner door and door jamb on the driver's side in paint, and get both doors back on the car. I was successful. I posted last night, that I was able to get the door jamb and inner door in paint last night, which was great, as the paint was cured just enough for me to be able to re-install. In addition to the doors and jambs, I was able to finish up the floors on the driver's side and got it in paint. I then slid the car in the garage over to where I could work on the passenger side. It is currently off the jack stands. Next, it's time to work on the dash and console. Then some interior vinyl painting on the faded sections of red, get the stereo and speakers in, then install the new interior panels and carpet after a through clean up. Plenty of work to do.
After done I took some pics and the car looked grey for the dust from using the orbital sander on all metal filler around the gas filler door! Anyway, here are some pics
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After work I got a head start on tomorrows work on the Z car. I went ahead and sanded up and prepped the driver's door and door jamb and painted it with the new clear which works SO well. I want to try and get both doors back on tomorrow, so I can finish the dirty work inside....then mop it out top to bottom, and start getting all my new interior pieces in. Here are a couple pics from tonight.
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Joe's 1972 240Z adventure
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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soldered the connections, then slid the shrink wrap over and used a cigarette lighter to melt it down.