HusseinHolland

I would like to see an update, if it's possible. Some of the linked threads have dead photo links, etc. I'm going to put a VQ35DE into my 75 280Z in a year or so. I have an '06 350Z manual as a donor. The types of things I can't find specifics on are examples of installs of headers that will work (one FB conversion said they used VQ35HR aftermarket headers (modified), but I can't find pics to aid in that, If the AC compressor can be made to work, and so on. I plan to use the stock EMS, so links to experience/info on harness routing, component placement would be helpful I bought the Apex-engineered VQ35-specific crossmember kit for the project, so I don't have to reinvent the wheel as far as geometry of the drivetrain in the chassis.

None of the factory holes on my 280Z worked for the Skinny 240Z bumper install. Holes needed were about 9" down from the side molding, and about 5.5" forward of the existing bumper side mount captive nut. Are the 260Z bumpers similar to the 280Z version? The right side ends up very close to the filler neck bracket with rubber sleeve

Just to add to this - 91-02 Ford Escort base model is the listing to look for unit is slightly narrower & shorter, so expect to add padding/closed cell foam to take up the slack

Hello! Did you ever photo-document the VQ35DE swaps? I'm curious to see how it fits in the S30 bay. Not finding much online, but perhaps my search queries are not properly phrased.. I may have access to a 2006 350ZX 6 speed, so I'm trying to figure out the viability of the conversion. Having the donor vehicle would certainly make this less stressful than some of the other potential drivetrain swaps that inevitably have significant scope creep when you start sourcing all the oddball bits that weren't attached to the drivetrain.I can fabricate as needed, however templates for mounts etc, make life easier for sure. I saw you mention that earlier in the thread.

Looks like I'll be doing mine also. I had water in the hatch area by the cubbies. I didn't realize my (new to me) 75 was missing all the outer hatch seals, and the main seal was basically shot, so it's most likely the large amount of water was actually from that. I found when I removed the hatch to do the seals that the hatch screws into the hinges were loose & so the hinge had rubbed a hole through the rubber on the pass. side. Small hole, but still. No rust inside, that's all glue overspray (from headliner? I dunno)

OK - I guess I'll have to order a pair & see how they lay

I installed the Xenon front spoiler today. It's very nicely made & substantial. In all the video installs I looked at, they seem to have issues with the spoiler dropping/warping - the 280Z has a valance that the spoiler sits against, if you don't remove it.. Clamped the middle to secure it, marked & drilled the 4 outer end attachments. Instead of futzing with nuts & bolts, I just used M6 stainless rivnuts & M6 sems screws For the leading edges, I used plastic body clips instead of bolts Added two rivnuts to the center section to anchor it All together (for now). I have a tall Skillet grille coming, and chrome skinny bumpers to complete the look. Ultimately, the spoiler will be body color. Added tape to where the bumper trim bolts went, covers up the extra unneeded holes. I'll make some brake ducts, so those cutouts don't look out of place

Found it - Yazaki 58X 5 pole

I can identify with having to touch every aspect of a car. Looks like it's coming along nicely. I just bought a CA 75 280Z, it's not in my hands yet. It has 250K miles. I may need to look into coilovers, the kit you used is a weld-in to the stock (modded) tube? Any pics of that work? I've made my own coilovers using Bicknell components and VW sleeves for my X1/9, so I'm not averse to fabrication.

@fusion - many thanks, I'll look for that spec. Edit - it looks like 12" is readily available, no 12.5". Would a shorter strut be an issue, or would it just mean moving the base pivot ball? Similar compressed length.

Also looking at VLSD - I read on one site that that requires a longer shaft to engage the Viscous coupling in the diff? Anyone who can clarify this?

Been reading through all the FAQ on the diff, axle shafts, etc. There are also threads which say read the faqs - but many of the links provided are dead - they load a blank page. Based on what I'm reading, I can see I need the LSD from a R200 diff, with 29 spline count; correct? Looking at used HLSD from Japanese sellers, I see listings for S13, 14, 15 Silvia & S15 Silvia. The R200 spec sheet from eatboostsleep says the S13, 14, 15 axles are 29 spline, 30mm - but also says diff output for S15 is 30mm, 30 spline, So that's confusing . Can anyone confirm whether the S15 Silvia spec-R helical LSD has the correct spline count? Trying to find a source for the 300ZX finned cover seems tough also. Any pointers there? Not really looking to buy a $600 Techno Toy version....

Following up on this, as there are so many threads on different forums referencing parts/adaptors/axles from 10+ years back. This is for my 75 280Z, stock suspension/drivetrain. Bascially, I just want to confirm that Z31XT stock (aftermarket, such as the Trakmotive) fit with the currently available Silvermine adaptors, or do they have to be OEM axles with cages filipped? I think MainBoyd stated he machined the new adaptors to reduce any offset, I'm not 100% on that without any reference pics to confirm what he said. Any advice/recommendations?

Nice mod. The link has no part numbers or specifics for the struts used - do you have the part number and/or the length of the strut used? I saw it was either 45 or 50lb weight. The earlier linked ones seem to be NLA - but was 12.48" length correct?

Did anyone find the part numbers for the female side of the Honda connector? I'd prefer to re-pin the Datsun harness than cut off the motor side. Couldn't find it in any of the linked threads on this or the ClassicZ forum posts on this topic

Adding this here for 280Z . I've spent the last hour or more trying to figure out which motor works without having to accurately cut the Honda shaft. Civic/Integra late 90's is appropriate unit. Cardone 851423 Honda 76505 SR3 A01 EDIT - 5 pole female housing - Yazaki 58X series relevant wiring link for 280z (added this after going down the rabbit hole of links regarding park, no park, etc., issues that arose in the original links)

relevant wiring link for 280z (added this after going down the rabbit hole of links regarding park, no park, etc., issues that arose in the original links)

Missed this. -I have a spare JDM K24A3, I put a JDM drivetrain in my mid engine fiat. I don't want a 4-banger in the Datsun though I'm also doing an LS drivetrain conversion on my Volvo Wagon I turned into a pickup last year ,so I don't want to do that to the Datsun

The JDM sources for drivetrain (not engine) include harness & EMS/PCM. The point is more that there is no consolidated or updated thread starting post. I'm in the habit of updating my starter posts to include a comprehensive parts list. I know I can also wade through the wiring thread in the RB forum. I'm on either laptop (Mac) or PC, either way, banner ads top & bottom.

Apologies - I forgot to say I am only looking for basically the factory output of the replacement drivetrain, so assuming RB25DET, around 280-300BHP. Doesn't seem worth spending around 10K on parts for less than 100HP increase over stock (LOL). All the RB25DET drivetrains at JDM outlets in my region NY/NJ seem to be around 8K. I'm unclear on whether it's better to consider the Neo or Non-Neo. Searching, it appears at face value the Neo has advantages spec-wise, however given these are all 20 years old, I have no idea if that is true of a well used drivetrain. RB20 is not enough less to warrant using it, based on all the remarks I've read regarding the improvements with the RB25DET engine & associated trans. What I can't find is a decent checklist of what is required - physical fitment parts list, driveshaft mod(?), EMS related - speed signal, etc. The threads in the RB forum are mostly 20 years old. Again, I may be missing something. There are so many banner ads on this forum, it's distracting when trying to search.

Many thanks for the input. Those crossmembers look very nice. I'd rather keep it Nissan if possible. I've already got an LS swap underway into my 91 Volvo I made into a pickup. I don't want to do that to the Z. I think I'd rather use the straight 6 (RB25) than a V6, but the price difference is pretty steep. I need to figure out how speed signals, etc., are worked out for the given EMS - I also don't want to use standalone. So VQ ?? is the Nissan V6 line? Any particular iterations that are better to consider than others? I'll start looking in the forum on here & YT for swap videos. Thanks again for responding

Hello! Apologies up front if this is the wrong place to start posting for info. Have a 1975 Datsun 280Z on it's way to me. 250K on original drivetrain. I will be getting the car to stage zero first, then I want to upgrade the drivetrain. When I did a online search RB2x's seem to be a common go to - however, all the links I see (in the RB subforum) are at least 10 years old, so I'm unclear on what is currently preferred. I do know from searching online that the RB25DET is a pretty expensive (and not common) drivetrain to acquire, never mind that they are all around 20+ years old. Is there a newer Nissan (manual) drivetrain that ppl are using? I haven't found any info on that. It could be also my unfamiliarity with Nissan Chassis/drivetrain nomenclature. I have done drivetrain conversions, so I am familiar with the need for custom parts & fabrication (I put a JDM Honda drivetrain in my 80's Fiat X1/9). Any insight or links would be appreciated