clint78z

The LS1/FD would be a deadly combo, always thought it was the best comprimise of everything. Has anyone done any measuring in the engine bay, a VH45, Tundra V8, Northstar V8 would be a sweet ass motor if it would fit.

Some great discussion here, just about all info accurate. Thought I would further explain a bit of fluid dynamics. I am going to over simplify some things to make the explaination clearer. Take a 2" pipe a certain length, pump water through it to cool the pipe. The water will flow at a certain velocity say 7 ft/sec, it will cool the pipe down to a certain temperature. The water flows 7ft/sec on the inside, but on the inner layer called the boundry layer the speed might be 0.5ft/sec if the pipe is smooth. A rough pipe will add turbulence to mix the boundry layer with the rest of the water, this will cool the pipe more. Now if you add too much turbulence the pump won't be able to maintain the same velocity. There are many tradeoffs made here, but that doesn't mean good old fashioned testing and documentation can't fix it.

I would get an injector cleaning and volume test done. The timing sounds conservative, yes reverify timing with a light. Make sure your distributor or igntion pickup is locked down properly, and there aren't any electrical noise to skew timing.

Still won't let me save the files, sometimes websites restrict remote location traffic. I will look into an FTP site or mabey give you acess to my websit then you can download it to that. Perhaps admin would let us post it here for everyone ??

I tried doing some pistons, but found limited info in the service manual as far as dimensions. The nice thing about Inventor is that you can ballpark things and then easily update after !! I plan to model the manifolds and some other things later on, and will share them too. I have some preliminary front suspension done as well. Agreed that IGES is probably good enough for stock parts, won't need to modify once it's drawn. There seems to be a lot of engineers and and designers on this board, hopefulley all the important stuff will be digital. That means lot's of tasty new shiny parts for everyone. Thanx so much, Clint

I was talking about your models HughDogZ, I am going to use some of your models with mine together. It looks like you went pretty detailed with measurements on the head. Did you measure the pistons and con rods?? I can share my EDIS wheel and mounting model soon, just need to verfiy a couple more details. I am aware of no backwards compatiblity now, kinda blows. Cheers, Clint

Is there a place where we can host the parts for download, it would be great if we could share these models. I have Inventor 10, can your models be saved as that version?? I have also modeled a ZX damper and Ford EDIS wheel, vr sensor, and A/C bracket. I am intrested in dowloading you model if that is possible.

From the brief bit of macining I have done, I tell you that it makes a difference who is making the part. Things like how concentric things are, runout, tolerances can make a difference. A hundred dollar part can be 10x the values if you put super fine tolerences on them. I can't comment on whose are better, I haven't done any measurements. From talking with Ross many time he is a stickler for details and design. He may not be the easiest to contact sometimes, but he makes sure the customer gets what he needs for their application. I haven't dealt with Techno Toy, but they have introduced some new parts for the Z crowd. It's great to hear reviews and comparisons. In the end the customer can make the decision based on their needs.

No step is that hard in Megasquirt system, there is so much help out ther for this system. I would say 60% of the heartache deals with how the wiring harness hooks up. Be very dillegent about proper grounding wires and were grounds are actually grounded. Soldering, heatshrinking, routing signal wires away from power wires, proper shielding signal wires. Make sure you have good clean connections !!! Follow all the setps in the manual, do not skip over. Once you have it wired, simply ask for an MSQ from these guys and you should be very close to a wonderfully driving car. As far as tuning there is info here http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtune.htm Datalogging is your friend use it all the time. I would suggest the VE map be roughly tuned before enabling autotune, other wise it can just make a mess of things. MSII extra has a more features and better resolution than MS1 extra, but it is limited by on to only 4 igntion drivers. For a your distributor you only need one.

While sniffing around the Junkyard looking for a harmonic balancer for a 280zx with power steering, I made another score. I got six coil on plugs from a Chrysler 2.7L V6. Haven't come up with a mounting bracket yet. They will be run in Wasted Spark (wired in series) by and EDIS 6 module. The rubber boot is pretty long I might trim it and modify the spring inside. The sytem is slowly coming together.

I would advise people to purchase a stimuator board for their MS ECU. It can save so much time diagnosing the problem. That way people on the forums trying to help, will have a lot more information to work with.

Great effort on your part Pete, keep up the good work!! I really like the background info on things, and how they work. It looks like the 50us give a nice clean swing back and forth. I think I am going to reread all the old posts, there is so much info !! Cheers, C

Does anybody know how to set PWM period on the MSII, I know it says keep it in the 10-25khz range. They really didn't say much more about it. Wondering if there is a proceedure for tuning this??

Thanks so much, that is wonderful information that take so much guess work out. I am curious oof the testing methods used, did track the current on the scope ?? Was it fairly apparent when the numbers were reached, or was it subtle and you had to look for it closely??

A new friend of mine is leading an expidition to Nepal next year. The plan is to head to Katmandu, hike for a couple of weeks. After that run the Hillary Marathon. I have dreamed of going for quite sometime, and the opportunity is too good to pass up. I am the biggest nature freak, and the pictures even take my breath away. Any tips or places to see from anyone?? http://www.everestmarathon.com/

As you mentioned you may run into problems running at those small pulsewidths for idle. 1.7ms-1.0ms for open time gives you .7ms. The resolution may not be good enough for deal with idle changes. Of course you could switch to high res code if you really want to nail it down. So the people who ran alternating how did you wire the banks of injectors??

I just finsihed the MS II kit and stim. The intructions are pretty good, except whe n it come to the igntion section. But if you look at the schematics, it makes much more sense. Oh I installed the map sensor backwards, the flat side faces outwards. Not sure how long it took me I did when I could spare the time. The little transitor are a bit tricky to get the right amount of solder, I sharpened the soldering tip. Probably 12hours not sure. It was a lot of fun, I am way less scared of it now. It will probably save diagnosing time down the road. I would recomend soldering wick tape, and magnifying lens, head mounted. All leds flash, and input respond properly. Except the O2 pot, it has a very small range the displays the AFRs. It might be in the firmare settings though. Just wondering how others found the whole deal ??

I always like you writeups Timz, they are so informative. I may be able to help you out with some of your questions. First we will tackle you EGT numbers, yes probe placement can have a effect on the numbers you get, and also guage calibration. When you get above 500F some of the gas laws, and themodynamics start getting tricky. There is conduction, convection, and radiation now when the gasses get hot. The probes visual line to the glowing gas has an effect on the reading. Second is the pressure ratio of your turbo. Your boost limit is dependant on how much you can push through your dowpipe. Think of your downpipe as a straw. The outside air is 1bar. Now with your old setup turbine pressure was 4bar (for example), so that would be like blowing on the straw with 4bar. This means there is a differential pressure of 3 bar. This will give you a certian flow through the staw. Now with the new setup you are blowing with 2bar pressure turbine pressure. This will have a differential pressure of 1bar, there will be less air flow throuh the straw with your new setup. (It is a little more complicated than that, temperature will actually play a factor). This is why with your new more effiecient setup, you need a bigger wastegate. Next I would like to open up the disscusion on ignition timing on EGT, I think for most ballpark situations that less timing = less egt, more timing = more EGT. There comes a point where you retard timing so much that the combustion happens in the exhaust giving you high EGT's. This is how rally cars spool there turbo's off the line (anti-lag). It can cause a turbo explosion if not done properly, and in general reduces the life of the turbo.

"crazy Bout A Mercury!!!"

I must be mistaken then I thought they were at least 8 ohms, I upgraded to 370cc quite a while ago, so memory is a little fuzzy. The radiohack special should be just as accurate on a measurement like this. It is only in very sensitive low amperage circuits it is nessary to have a high ohm meter like a fluke. The poor ones will affect how the circuit operates by measuring on it. Thanks for clearing that up, I will go home an reverify for myself.

To be classified as low impedance injectors they must be below 6ohms approx. These low impedance injectors operate on the peak/hold principle, big current start then hold low current. Now it is true that some z's came with a dropping resistor box, however the injectors are not low impedance peak/hold style. I think they were 12 ohms, can't quite remember. At any rate it would still be a good idea to install PWM injection circuit and use it. If anyone has info to contradict this, please post. We are all here to learn.

You are correct on hooking up all the components and jumpering the one you need. I am pretty sure the stock injectors are high impedance, but there may be an exception I am not aware of. Anyhow you can run them through the PWM circuit of the injectors. Have you tried hooking it up to the stim and cranking it up to 4600rpm, get a siringe and apply pressure to the MAP sensor. Datalog it this time, it is a great tool to track down problems, typically people try and tune without it which is like minesweeping with a hammer !! It sounds like the problem is external to the MSII, mabey fuiel pump ?? Perhaps you were loosing RPM signal ??

The thing I liked about the movie is that it didn't try to make the guy a super polished hollywood hero. It reminded me of the weird guy that lived in a small town, that didn't listen to anyones limitations on what things can be done.

Some tips I have found to welding thin metal on the Z. 1) Do not use the galvanized patch metal you get at Autozone..., got to a sheetmetal place and by 20guage. The difference is night and day. 2) Surface prep edges put a little bevel on them very slight. Clean both surface throroughly with grinder. 3) Fitup is extremely important, I have better luck with a buttweld. Take the extra time to make a zero gap. Take extra 15mins here, it will make it so much easier. Make sure it is clamped very well, it's almost impossible to fill a gap. 4) Short busts, tack and go to the opposite side repeat multiple times. Experiment on the bench where it's easy to work on with a couple of peices of 20 guage. Play with heat and wire speed. An aout darkening helmet makes it a lot easier tack welding thin material

Fiero is a good car, all you have to do is put on a lambo body, and shoehorn an LT1 in the back, upgrade all supension change interior. Presto !!!