RebekahsZ

JMortensen: Good advice. I had no idea how much it takes to clear the cylinder and the line-that's why I liked alternating colors. The first wheel always takes the longest, then just a squirt for the second wheel. Do you put a syringe in your reservoir to get all the old stuff out first? Have I told you "thanks" lately for my shortened axles? Still beating on them! Pulled them last night for the brake conversion and it was a snap.

m1tymaxxx-I checked their website and it was a no-go. It was fun while it lasted, I guess.

I just attempted to order some more ATE Super Blue, which I alternate with Motul RBF 600, and I found lots of posts about it being discontinued because it was.....blue. Can anybody confirm this? So what is a racer to do in order to confirm a 100% fluid flush? Suggestions welcome. Any other good quality fluids available in any color other than amber? I just don't get it: I can kill my child, marry my neighbor's brother, quit work, lay around and get others to pay for my weed, but I can't freakin' have blue brake fluid-what's next?!

Invoice for Konis from johnc came thru today and RBR order was finalized. I'm out of money and brake fluid (a crappy combination that seems to always rear its head when I'm doing brakes). Gonna try to get all these parts on the car and hopefully have a good month and re-charge my car account, so long as Congress keeps paying thru Medicare I should be ready for more spending come Nov 1. Dropped exhaust and pulled CV axles (I love those things) and got the big ass nut off the axle stubs. Thanks to my lovely wife for mashing the brakes while I broke fasteners on the drivetrain loose. With the crappy Maxima calipers, it took full force on the foot brake, hydraulic handbrake and cable-operated parking brake to hold the wheels still enough to get the stub axle nuts broken loose. Luckily I anti-seized the crap out of everything, so the CF companion flanges came off by hand-the M2 flanges needed a gear puller to remove. Got rid of the aluminum/delrin rear LCA bushings and swapped in polyurethane bushings (liberally greased per a recent thread about squeaky bushings). The delrin gave me more tire clearance, but gosh they were clunky and noisy, and photos show that they did nothing to control LCA flexing on drag strip launches. Tomorrow night I hope to get to the point of pulling stub axles. Then out of town for three days, then I should have all my rear brake kit first mock-up done before the weekend is over. I think the driveshaft is gonna have to come down AGAIN to remove the parking brake assembly. Oh well, anything worth doing is worth doing twice, or three, or four times....

He only has 1 fan (a Taurus). The high-speed fan is a mis-nomer. It should be called the high-temp fan. It simply comes on if the first (low-speed/low-temp fan) fails to keep the motor cool; it just triggers at a higher temperature. I spent a ton of time on this searching ls1tech when I did my build. If running a single fan, it should go on the low-speed signal from the PCM/ECM and the high speed wire is not used. If using two fans, as I did, one wires one to the low-speed signal and the other to the high-speed signal. The fan may or may not even be the problem-it is easy enough to check, same as having the motors turning the fans the wrong way (mine were initially wired backwards). Could this equally be a timing or mixture problem? Has car been tuned yet? What's the latest ZFan?

Close thread-just ordered a set from racinglab.com

The low speed output signal for the fan comes on at a lower temp than the high speed signal. If you wire the single fan to come on according to the low speed signal, your fan will start turning on and off according to the lower temp value.

This weekend: 1) Cleaned up the case of a used OBX LSD 3.54 R200 wfritts911 scored me in exchange for some used slicks. Next step on that is to see where all the metal chunks are coming from inside the carrier. If it is rebuildable, I will owe him some more money, or maybe he'll let me trade him something more. I put that on the shelf for a while. 2) Front AZC brake kit installed, hope to bleed it today and get some bolts broken loose on the rear end-maybe I'll get some work done on that next weekend. Did lots of test fitting for wheels, gonna need to order some 1/2" spacers for the front-glad I did the extended stud thing last year. Putting this kit together was SO easy. Used a dremmel tool to cut off the outer (unnecessary) portion of the TTT front control arm to prevent gouging the rotor on it. Wondering if I should spend the time and money on having rotors cryo treated. More research to do. 3) Ordered a set of (4) Rota RBR 17X9.5-19 Royal Gun Metal wheels from racinglab.com-nobody else seems to have them anymore. $900 before shipping. Initial plan is to put 275/40/17s on them and run them in back with the BAMF flares. I will keep my 16X8s on the front so I don't have to cut up the front sheetmetal yet. I have a lead on a set of used 275/40/17 Hoosier R6s lined up-hope to order them tomorrow-just waiting on production dates before sending money. The second set of 17X9.5s will be set aside waiting for a set of used A6s to surface before summer. 4) Bought a Mr. Gasket 2-pole battery shutoff switch at Advance Auto. It had a fairly long mounting stud and a switch handle that can be cut down some if more clearance is needed. Will start on that if I run into a parts delay on the brakes. 5) Put all my racing tires in trash bags and moved them to climate controlled storage. 6) Tried to finalize plans to pickup the 3.36 diff parts car, but the owner wigged on my AGAIN! I can live without it if sale blows up-I'll just go to 28" slicks. 7) Got sniped out of a solid axle V8 280z. Never could get the owner and me in the same place. It sold to somebody else for less than I would have paid to be able to stop using my car so much like a chameleon. A pretty good start on winter mods!

Score for hybridz!!!! Thanks, Akira. The links for these parts no longer worked on the old threads. Thanks so much.

There is a photographer who lurks around the local dragstrip. From his website, one can order photos and t-shirts, etc. Finally ponied up the $29.99 for a T-shirt. Enjoy and try to overlook the beer gut.

Did some searching and a bunch of reading on this diff over past few days using hybridz search and google. Found some very helpful threads about spring washer stacks and these diffs being assembled incorrectly from the factory. However, most of the links for repair parts and instructions were so old that they weren't working properly. I got this diff from another hybridz member with the knowledge that it was making ugly noises-purchase price hasn't been set, because previous owner didn't know if it could be fixed. Sure enough, it was low on oil and the oil was very thin and ugly. Lots of metal chunks in case and lots of metal on the magnetic plug. Want to tear into this thing, but only if I can find a source for parts, most likely the spring washers. I'm not looking to start another thread on the merits of this or any kind of LSD, just looking for parts and rebuild instructions. Thanks for any help you can give.

Sounds like fun. I would put slicks ahead of NO2 to allow more fun between breakages. Gotta stop the wheel hop or you will be breaking a lot.

Purpose of this thread is to share info. I'm putting AZC discs on my car and my biggest concern is wheel figment because my car has more shoes than Imelda Marcos! (Young guns can google that reference). So here's my findings. I will be updating as edits to the original post. Fronts: 15x3.5 weld Draglites need 1/4" stud mounted spacers. 15x4 Weld Draglites need 1/2" stud mounted spacers. (Conflict is between the outside of the caliper and the inside face of the wheel). 16x8 +10 Rota RBR has plenty space in all directions without spacers.

If you bracket race, it doesn't really matter how fast car is, just consistent. Plus, it sucks to go super fast and always have a broken car. Fun comes from RELIABILITY. Get that cooling fixed and get racing! Chin up.

What do you mean when you say: "it will eventually over-heat?" At what temp is your fan/fans coming on? Push or pull fan? How are you controlling fans? I have no idea about my temps-I need to get better gauges. My stock motor runs at the same grease pencil mark on the gauge as the old L24 did using a L24 sender unit. It looks on the poorly marked gauge like 220, but wfritts plugged his real-time OBD kit into the plug and said the temp was only 205.

You still went sub-7 without really trying. That's fast in my book.

I have one blown BZ3099 in a front tube (it dumped its oil about ten years ago and I've been driving it that way with zero rebound dampening since). I'm finally doing something about it and buying a set of koni 8610-1437s all the way around. I'm buying from johnc. At 13-ish inches long, hopefully they are about the same length as the bz3099. I will use a spacer in back to make up the difference in tube length. I will be selling my 3 good BZ 3099s after I remove them. It will be a few months.

Yeah, that is road race. I'm building to drag race rules-a little more liberal, for better or worse.

Damn, that is COOL! But you are gonna have to put a huge hole in the car, aren't you? The fender exhaust is way down on my list-I won't forget you, but it will be late this winter before it is done. Priorities for the winter are: stopping, NHRA certification, fun stuff. The exhaust cut outs are in the fun stuff category.

Which switch do you guys like better (see links)? I'm getting ready to install a NHRA-required (only required if battery has been re-located from stock position) remote battery disconnect switch on the back of my car. I want to locate it next to the license plate. Problem: due to the tail light surround, that is a double panel! I need a long switch stud type switch to get thru the double panel, and there aren't many options. So, which switch do you guys like better? http://www.downwindmarine.com/Cole-Hersee-Master-Disconnect-Switches-p-91000033.html http://www.jegs.com/i/Flaming+River/898/FR1003-1/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710538744&catargetid=1784157045&cadevice=c&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CMr2wv7UjboCFRDl7AodPRQA5Q I know I could do a remote T-handle push-pull switch, but I just don't want to have the hole in the back of the car sucking fumes (I still drive this thing on the street). The Flaming River switch isn't really a long-stud, but I think I could use the length of the T-handle to effectively make it function like a long-stud. Any thoughts from the smart guys?

I keep hoping there is some way to avoid running another large gauge cable all the way down the frame rail, but I guess it must be. I've seen some wiring diagrams that are crazy with extra circuit brakers, diodes and all kinds of crazy stuff. Heard lots of speculation about powering down the ECM causing problems. Seems like that stuff is just so much BS. Will knock it out based on your advice and post-up a thread on it. Thanks!

Ok. Cars are common sense most of the time. You're a dude, right? Next time it happens, stop the car on the speed bump, get out of the car. Make sure nobody is coming. Lay down in the street and look under the car. The answer will probably be staring you right in the face.

I didn't ask you! Get back to your solid axle project so I can ask you a million questions about that. Hurry up and post pictures. Terribly selfish of you not to have a build thread on that, BTW. Get snappin'!

If you are under 300hp, consider johnc's subi R180 to stock u-joint axle conversion stubs-you likely won't break them. Very easy. If you gotta have CVs and want something off the shelf, get johnc's stubs and wolf creek CV axles ($900). Clean, bolt in new parts-hard to beat.

Loved it. But my dog isn't allowed in my garage. Also love the duct tape covering the crack in the rear pillar-classic, although I prefer electrical tape.