RebekahsZ

Good idea-thanks Miles! I don't know that I am knowledgeable enough to put that list together on my own. Anybody want to help with the list of criteria? I'm just hoping for something beyond terms like "aggressive", "better performance over stock," "reduced fade at low to medium temperatures," etc that show up in the product descriptions in catalogs and web sites.

First post. Porterfield R4-S: better initial cold bite than Autozone brand pads. Bedded to rotor quickly. No unpleasant lock ups. VERY DUSTY, but worth it. No noise. No fade all day on road course with pro driver (Matt Isbell) at the wheel. Did not stop as well (had to brake much earlier) as another stock Z I got to drive at an autocross where I drove both cars. He had Hawks, but I don't know which model. Will edit post when I know which model of Hawks he had. In general, I was happy with the R4-S pad, but I wanted to stop better after driving the other Z-car at the autocross. Hawk HPS: very poor autocross braking (increased braking distance over R4-S and Autozone cheapies). Would not bed after two autocrosses and a fair amount of drag racing and street driving. NO dust. No noise. Fine for daily driving, but I was not happy with my experience with this pad. Perhaps it is meant to be a low-dust pad at the expense of performance...

I'm trying to setup a collection point for THOUGHTFUL reviews/experiences with different models of brake pads. I am in the finishing stages of the 4-piston front and rear brake conversion from Arizona Z-Car and I hope to have better stopping ability than I had with my previous setup that was stock front 240z brakes with a Maxima rear disc conversion. I hope that anyone who posts on this thread will avoid overly general terms like "aggressive," "must-have," or "these brakes suck," etc. I hope that anyone posting will be very specific. Lets try to limit the discussion to PAD ONLY, not the conversion or what kind of calipers are being used. I really want us to talk about the friction material specifically and how it performed in certain high performance environments. My personal goal is to find an autocross pad that has slows the car in the shortest distance possible with the least tendency to lock the tires unexpectedly. I would think that means highest coefficient of friction at the lowest temperature, but maybe not... I would also like to find a pad that had huge initial bite and locks immediately cold (for my silly drifting caliper). I realize that this thread might wind up in the tool bin. See below for the most thoughtful brake pad review I have found, after some searching, on the internet and this forum (or really anywhere): http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110643-280zx-rear-caliper-race-pad/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Bpads&do=findComment&comment=1034634

2 calipers per side for now, plus parking brake caliper if I can figure out cable routing. Car is multisport: street, drag, autocross, road course track day, and is like to even do a solo drift event if I can find one that is in a super safe venue (cones with no walls or curbs). The hydraulic handbrake I ran for the past year was really helpful for trailer loading and drag racing. And, if it cost me any horsepower, the dyno didn't show it. So I'm just having fun. The chequered flag billet stubs come in dual pattern. If I had owned them before I bought like five sets of four-lug wheels, I would have converted to five lug.

Why are you changing clutch release mechanisms? Did the other setup give you trouble? I have not enjoyed having the hydraulics inside the bellhousing on my car. What bell housing are you using? Those headers sure look fine-what is it about headers that looks so (I hate to say it) sexy? Love your motor mounts-getting the driver side mounting bolt in and out has been a pain with the JCIs, but no welding was required so I'm still happy with it. If I was yanking motor more, your kit looks lots better.

Got one side of the rear brakes mocked up-perfect fit so far. Trial fit all my different wheels. As expected, need the ZG flares-they are to arrive Monday. Hope to get passenger side mocked up tomorrow, then start on modifying hard brake lines. Will definitely need the 1" bolt on spacers to use my 15" drag wheels, but looks like it is going to fit fine with that modification. The 16" and 17" Rotas fit fine.

Ok cool. Thanks.

Keep sending options, gurus! Thanks. I had somebody else recommend a big screwdriver. I know I have a habit of complicating things, but I broke a caliper piston once by prying on it and it made a simple operation a real pita. This brake kit has cost me more than the original purchase price of the car plus the first engine rebuild and I want to treat it with respect! Johnc, do I pry between the rotor and the pad before removing, or remove the pad, then pry between the rotor and the piston after removing the worn pads? I know this seems like a tool bin discussion but while I've done plenty of brake jobs, I want to do it like a race crew, the PROPER way.

How does having the springs mounted so far inboard affect cornering? I'm asing because I don't know. Lots of room for big tires. Looking good.

I think that is the factory applied sound proofing. We like to remove it. I think when you do, you will find that your floor pans need replacement.

What tool should I use to compress the wheel cylinders on these Wilwood dynalytes and superlytes that come with the AZC kit? I've been a c-clamp guy for years and I'm hoping there is a better tool for track side use that doesn't require removal of the caliper...getting closer. Meeting with welder today to finish up the modified rear caliper brackets. Have PM'd m1noel to beg pics of his p-brake cable routing.

I'm not in the market for another car, but the problem listing your car in the classifieds may be that you have to be a "donating member." If you are not a donating member, go to the "donate" link and follow instructions from there. It costs $20 thru Paypal. Then you should be able to post add. It took me a while to figure out. But you won't sell your car if no one knows it is for sale.

214-426-4100 zcar@johnscars.com is the email. To find the LS1 stuff, put "John's Cars Inc + LS1" in your google browser. For some reason it is really hard to find if you just go to John's Cars Inc then try to navigate to the right place. By adding LS1 to your search address it takes you right there.

I have often wondered if they would work for brake ducting... Heavy85 - I wish you were my next door neighbor - our cars are at such similar stages, it would be great to put them next to each other for bench racing, parts swapping and even do some racing against one another. Love what you have done and are doing to it.

My engine came from the junkyard with MSD wires that bend like a Gumby doll. They clear the JTR headers if you bend them right. I've had same wires for two years no issues.

Thanks. I really appreciate your help. Don't worry about sending me the sample. Ive got more work to do on my end-you've given me plenty to think about. And yes, we even have deer on the track at times, tree limbs and screw drivers. And a garbage dump at the far end, so you want good brakes too. It's amazing how all those empty beer cans can stay in the back of your truck flying down the highway, then fly out the tailgate when you floor it from a dead stop. My radiator is on borrowed time.

Please don't think I was being critical. I just want to learn. I made my droop limiters WAY too complicated and am jealous of how clean yours looks. Ah, a doubler plate. That's the difference. My first go at it bent the crap out of my sheet metal.

I bought the single adjustable konis. They are $209 from Summit, but I paid a bit more from johnc in order to enjoy the great customer support. Already glad-he's been really helpful with my car over the time I have owned it. And I ask lots of stupid questions. There are always lots of little issues where I enjoy his advice and you can't put a price tag on that.

I love this forum and I appreciate all the help from everybody. I agree: most of the time Mcmaster Carr is cheap, but I was surprised at the prices for this stuff. Stainless IS heavy. Zzeal: do you think that aluminum mesh that you recommended would stop a medium sized rock? In my area, drag strip nights more resemble a Mad Max movie that anything I've seen on Pinks or Pass Time. While I commented on the damage done by a beetle, I'm really more concerned about catching a rock. I don't expect to be able to protect against a beer bottle, driveshaft or 'coon or a large dog (known to walk across the strip), I would like to be able to stop a 2" rock.

I'm afraid you may be confusing apples and oranges. The 260z has some 240z parts on it and some 280z parts on it, depending on what the production date is within the year of 1974. If the flange on the hub where the wheel mounting studs press in is scalloped, sort of like a cross, then you have 240z hubs. If that flange is round with no scallops removed, then you have 280z hubs. So, you need to pull a wheel and figure that out. There is no factory replacement 240 or 280z hub available that has 5 lugs. To get 5 lugs, you have to mount an aftermarket hub, like the one that Arizona Z Car sells. If you get that hub, you can run the stock brake rotor and caliper. However, if you decide to put a Z31 rotor on a 280z hub (assuming that SunnyZ is correct-which he usually is), you still only have a 4-lug hub! AND, your stock caliper will not work with the Z31 rotor. I still think the easiest, cheapest, and most straight forward way for you to accomplish your goal is with an Arizona Z Car 5-lug hub. You need to specify to Dave at AZC, which hub and rotor you intend to use (240z vs 280z). Then you can continue to use your stock brakes without any issues. I hope I'm helping you.... In the time you have been torturing yourself over this you could have opened a lemonade stand and made enough money to buy the parts that you really need and you'd be running down the road right now.

When I push down the shock it just jumps right back up like a rocket. The good ones move up slowly. When it blew, I had oil all over the place. I just cleaned up the oil and kept going. It blew with the car sitting in the garage. I came out to go for a drive and there was oil on the ground by the front tire. Thought I had a bad wheel cylinder/caliper. Oil had poured out of the top of the strut around the strut rod. But the other three are still good. Springs are stiff enough that as a novice driver the car drives fine. Makes me a skeptic about how important expensive shocks really are. But again-I'm a novice driver. I can't tell that the car ever drove any differently with the shocks on 1or 5. There are so many factors in how a car "handles.". I still think the best mod i ever made for how the car handles was a good drivers seat! I try to play the game just the same. Maybe I will be a national champ next year since I'm investing $1000 in shocks this winter! Probably not.

Try Rockford Driveline.

Try calling JCI on the telephone. I have been VERY happy with their customer service, but I am pre-Internet and I think they are too. Their kit works. Hawks 3rd Gen has started making conversion kits but I have not personally seen it.

I think I'm going to stop by the Cadillac dealer and do a pencil/paper tracing of the caddy grill. Then I will try to do a drawing using the Pegasus specs as a reference. Then I will go back to the McMaster site and try to decider their specs from the knowledge that I've gained. Will also stop by a heating and ventilation store I've found and see what they have. Trying to chose a product from these little swatches that they put in catalogs is like trying to pick a color from a 1" paint chip. Getting closer.

Socorob-if you are struggling with this question, you should probably talk with your mom and dad.