RebekahsZ

Brackets at welder. Tracking number says rear flares in transit. Patience pays. Next step is custom-length braided brake lines for hand brake calipers.

You buy mine. I have (4) BZ3099 Illuminas coming off my car in the next week or two. One of them is dead in rebound. Two are 15 years old, two are two years old. I guess i will toss the dead one. PM me if interested, or I might put them on eBay with a reserve. I'm koni bound.

I think I love you.

I will look in the morning. I think it is synthetic 75-145 with three tubes of friction modifier. I have a CLSD and no amount if friction modifier has been successful in stopping diff "chatter", which in my car sounds like a big bang from the rear end on slow turns. I stopped adding modifier at three tubes. I do not have an intelligent argument for why I used that oil. Seems like this is a matter of personal preference and product loyalty. I don't think it really matters what gear oil you use. Back when i was a noob, I thought that big greasy diff was a lubricant reservoir placed perfectly by the Z designer to keep my rear LCA bushings continuously lubricated.

Had same exact symptoms with a clutch master cyl last year. Replaced master cyl, problem solved. That's three in agreement.

The hubs will interchange between 240,260,280 models, ie: spindles are all the same. But you must put 280 rotors on 280 hubs and 240 rotors on 240 hubs.

Curious to see how that droop strap mounting holds up just pinned to the sheet metal like that. Please comment on that over time.

Wow! Looks great.

Oh yeah, have diff on level surface when filling. It is normal for some oil to spit out of the vent over the life of the car. Prevents chassis corrosion. To fill if diff is already installed, remove spare tire and pull plug in forward portion of spare tire well. Get a helper. Use 3/8 fuel hose and a funnel to snake hose down and into fill plug on diff. Be prepared to clean up big mess. Tell assistant that gear oil is good hair tonic.

Buy 2 quarts and fill it till it makes a mess. Put in friction modifier first before the oil. You will have some oil left over.

One of these things is not like the other one.... Corvette, corvette, corvette.......,hey, was that a.....Datsun??? I love it.

Send me your ph# so I can coordinate when I come look before spring. How's the car coming together?

Headwest-try calling them if a contact number is available on the website. This is a new product for them and websites often lag behind by months. socorob-I PM'd the dude at Hawks. He didn't know if his headers would fit with the JCI kit or not (he didn't have a JCI car to try them on). So, I guess it still has to be determined. He did say that the Hawk headers fit both the 240z and 280z, but his mounts were required. The first long-tube group buy headers fit a 280z, but require modification to fit a 240z. You would have to find a member of that first group buy to get a set from as the dude making them dropped the ball and quit making them.

I love the wheels-would put them on my car in a second. Steel, oil and rubber come from the same place - the ground. It doesn't matter whether the magic comes from Japan, Mexico or the US-its all the same. Plus, all the blood, sweat, and tears are human, whether from Norway, Singapore, Saudi Arabia or Alabama. My car was made in Japan, ordered and purchased by a Vietnam vet in Alabama, moved with me to North Carolina then to Arkansas, then returned to Alabama where it now resides. Somewhere along the line it picked up 6 different paint jobs and a tone of cancer. The LS2 was engineered in the US, made in Mexico, shipped to Australia where it was installed at the Holden plant, then resold to the US in the GTO. Car was totaled somewhere, sold for scrap in Houston where it was picked up by a GTO salvager from Alabama. I bought it off ebay. I guess I like both foreign and domestic cars. That's what makes them hybrids.

On the Hawks kit: From the pics he posted, looked like there was better alternator clearance. Anybody seen any pics of his trans crossmember? These are the only real weaknesses of the JCI kit that I found on my swap.

Put a little grease on the hatch latch pin and on the rubber bumpers on the side of the hatch that rub on the hatch itself. Hatch squeaking is more common than suspension squeaking. Next, make sure your axles aren't rubbing on the sway bar. I would go there since you had that apart recently. Spray a little spray lubricant on the u-joints and see if that helps.

Glad YOU are ok. Cars can be fixed but friends cannot be replaced.

Do a little searching to find a post about a new company making mounts and headers for the LS. I can't rember which sub-forum but it is the only active source for long tube headers and you need his motor mounts or the headers won't fit. Good luck with the build!

I'm sure this will get some scoffs, but I'm the guy with fake velocity stacks on a fake intake manifold. I'm of the belief that you should do anything that you want to your car. I have a carbon hood and it is somewhat translucent. What if you got some of those green ricer neon lights and put them under the hood so that it glows green? Iv e actually considered putting red LEDs in my fake velocity stacks such that the hood glows a little thru the carbon. Let the hating begin!!

I'm proud of you for saving the car-you did well, and that was a lot of work. The car looks great. I can fit a 235/60/15 in back of mine no problem with totally stock fenders, so a 235/60/14 should be fine too.

Just thinking ahead! I bet you tap 8.49 in no time.

Next challenge to keeping your heater is the knee bar on your roll cage. It is do hard to build a car that does everything well. I go, "lets modify this-no can't do that. Then lets modify this other thing-no can't change that, either." Compromise is a cruel mistress. The factory engineers are probably best at it, then we go mucking it up!

The old dude with the pipe wasn't at work on the day I took my tires to get mounted. The young guy with the tattoo only gouged one of them...honestly, I don't know how you avoid gouging a soft metal rim when mounting super stiff race tires, so I wasn't too broken up about it-its a race car and an off-track excursion would likely do far worse. When I ordered my wheels from racinglab, I went ahead and ordered 4 of the 17X9.5s just in case they got discontinued at some point. I have accepted the need to flare the rears, but I am just not ready to flare the fronts, but it is a much easier process should I decide to do it in the future. I'm starting to think about sending back the two that I still have in the boxes and buying a pair of the 17X8.5s that have an offset that is more toward the strut. The 9.5s only come in one offset and are spaced pretty far away from the coilover strut, so I could afford to push under more. Plus the Hoosier R6 275/40/17 is a little "stretched" on the wheel even though Hoosier's fitment guide recommends at least a 10" wheel-I think I'd be fine running 1" more narrow if I limited my width to 275s up front. At the moment, the 17s look huge, but they are actually only 1" taller than my 16s with 245s on them. Plan for the moment is to run 17s in rear and 16s in front-we'll see how that works out. Made some progress on the rear brakes. Made a drawing using an elementary school compass, then scribed and cut the extra brackets ($39 each). This was super easy. Drilled holes in a piece of 1/4" steel to use as a fixture when the welder tacks everything up. Hopefully, everything will stay straight. Had to "clearance" a little on the cast portion of the rear hubs to be able to install and remove caliper mounting bolts; the brake line will clear well too. The brake line will likely conflict with my droop limiter, but I usually don't run them in back. Will need custom flex hoses for the rear, but I think this is gonna work and work a lot better than my Maxima setup. Hope to finish the bracket trimming and sanding today and have the brackets ready to go on next weekend. Final picture is the door bar arrangement I hope to use, or some modification thereof. I really want to connect my firewall to the back of the car to stiffen up some.

I have enjoyed my hooks on a few occasions! If you haven't, you aren't trying hard enough. Sorry you had trouble-got big plans for winter?

Freaking beautiful! Please post up a full thread on building these when you have the job done completely. Everything from speedway is pretty cheap too, and shipped and on your door in a couple days. Please do a complete write up with part numbers if you can.