RebekahsZ

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113018-r200-clsd-chatter-and-pop-video-help/ Try watching this video. Is this what your car might be doing? I have a R200 CLSD and it pops all the time. From what all the gurus tell me, it is just the clutch discs sticking. I'm trying to ignore it. I turned up my stereo.

No-8.5" wide, 26" diameter, 15" diameter rim. I'm gonna increase to a 8" wide wheel, but will probably stay with only a 8.5" wide tire.

So, with the right set up, I should be able to go flat out for four hours repeatedly slowing from 110 to 30mph and only have to change pads for wear and possibly exchange fluid? Rotors should hold up? And when I do a pad change, I should just have to change them, do two easy laps to bed them then get back after it? Brake related spares could be an extra set of pads, an extra set of rotors and some fluid, If that is what I can expect, I can be ready next spring and another hard track day. Thanks guys for helping me set expectations-that's really what I needed.

I prefer to drive my car as opposed to working on it ALL the time. With LS V8 I have 51% rear weight. Nothing really to gain by moving current configuration around except making it harder to change a clutch. Go for it!

Skinny Man! I weighed 165 ten years ago. You have a serious BBQ deficiency. You must be ambidextrous! Or is it anorexic?

Definitely gonna duct or divert to rotor definitely gonna be more considerate with breaks and shorter sessions-great pictures! Will use track pads when i go to track. Thanks for the pictures. Keeping on the maintenance theme: tell me HOW you scuff (rotor or pads)? Do you scuff a new set? Are Wilwood pads easy to change? With the top hat design, do you have to remove the front hub from the spindle to change rotors? How much grooving do you allow on your rotors-how do you know when they are DONE? Do you turn them or just replace them?

26x8.5x15 MT ET Drag.

But it ain't broke! That has to feel good. Hope you are proud of that new rearend. How much more tire could you fit with a better offset? Wish you could get more runs in a night...your drag opportunities look more like an autocross day than a TnT night. Trailer on down here and get some passes!

As I increase the number and variety of events I do I am learning the hard way that I need a pit crew, but really I'm it. Since I wrecked my brakes at a track event, it has taken me WAY too long to get them back in order. I'm sure I wouldn't have wrecked them if I had taken more breaks instead of beating the old girl to death. I am planning to get the current system back at least to stock level of performance and keep the car in drag/autocross events until winter and will likely do a AZC Wilwood conversion while it is cold out, then get back to beating on it hard. This thread is about MAINTAINING brakes in a high performance environment. I hope for a discussion of what brakes are EASY TO MAINTAIN. And MAINTENANCE TIPS for making it easier to work on them at trackside. For example, does anybody have a hook in their fender for supporting the caliper when it is off the bracket so it doesnt hang by the hose? Which brake brands allow the fastest pad changes? How do you deal with changing pads or rotors when you have no chance to bed the brakes and you get right back on the track? Any special tools? I'm running Hoosiers and a V8, so no matter what brakes I have-they will need maintenance during a track weekend and I want to learn to prevent failures instead of terminating early and bringing home a broken car.

What year and model rear rotor is used on the Desert Z (Sean Schlapi) maxima-caliper rear dic conversion? I need to buy a pair.

I am using johnc's autocross settings and achieving a very nice wear pattern.

I vote for narrow AND flares. Put that axle to work!

Full report-please! I thought this was gonna be a dirty joke....

I'm studying your photo...Did you keep both O2 sensors for each side (the one before the catalytic converter, and the one behind it)? That's what it looks like... Since I have no converters, I had the rear set of O2 sensors removed from the wiring harness and from the tune. Could your computer be leaning it out because it thinks you are too rich on the downstream side of the (imaginary) catalytic converter? I'm not a tuning whiz - I'm just trying to help.

This is a Honda S2000 that we saw at Caffeine and Octane in Atlanta/Alpharetta this past Sunday. I like it, but I pity the guy who runs this setup and hopes to keep his paint in order.

A photo of both of our cars cooling off and one of the kids (his name is Jake) from the children's cancer event sitting in Matt's car-he's got his game face on! I've started a thread on the Motorsports Forum detailing the track day and instruction from my perspective. We were about to do some lead-follow instruction when my brakes failed due to booster pushrod failure (I had it adjusted too far out with too few threads bearing and the rod length adjuster collapsed under threshold braking).

Have you checked eBay? I think I saw some used Hoosiers at 14" last week.

If you could go to 15", I have a set of 15x7 rota RBs with BFG R1 road race slicks that I don't need. The rubber has a production date of 2008, but I just did fine at road race temperatures with some 2009 Hoosier R6s. My R1s have two autocrosses on them and never got up to their sticky operating temperature. I'd sell them for a good price on the wheels and just throw in the tires. PM me if interested. Shipping would be the hitch.

SunnyZ mentioned a low rpm lean spot in his dyno tuning. He has long tubes. Maybe he can offer advice.

I am sorry mightyMax, but I am just a fellow clueless traveler on the road to ruin. I am not an automotive engineer-at best I am just a copy cat. Im not really qualified to give advice. The only advice I know is to only change one variable at a time. My brakes worked fine until they disintegrated. I don't really need better stopping, I just need them to be as bullet proof and durable as possible. If you have a L6 you don't need as much brakes as a V8, but 2 hours of race level driving is gonna be rough on them. Can you stop in the pits every now and then and check pad wear? Could you slap together some sort of ducting for cooling? Can you bring some spare rotors and pads? And some mechanics gloves cause the hardware will be hot. You may have to brake earlier and less aggressively if you want the car to hold up... Ask the ITS Enduring guys for advice.

Why? they have both a single circuit kit and a dual (front/back) kit using the same 1" wildwood MC that is discussed in the stickies. How does that eliminate the rear brakes?

I just might love you....thanks!

Anybody know how to get the rod out? This booster just has a rubber seal around the rod with no visible metal retainer.

As you may remember, one of the last adjustments I made to my car before going to AMP was to adjust the brake master cylinder push-rod coming out of the booster. My final adjustment was about 1/4" longer than what you see in the photo. It was weird to me at the time that the rod had no lock nut. The brakes failed during the driving day at AMP while Matt Isbell was driving. In reviewing in-car video, there is a loud "pop" preceding the failure. Sorry the sound was so bad in the vid-I put the wrong lid on the gopro-it was a mechanical symphony in the flesh! I went looking for the cause of the failure, of course, at the point of my most recent car work: the booster rod. It looks like the adjuster failed and compressed completely into the push-rod. Has anyone else ever had this problem? And, how about some repair recommendations that will be a lot stronger? The threads in the adjuster look fine, so I'm betting that the female end of the rod has a crack in it (gotta figure out how to get that thing out of there). I was hoping to autocross this Saturday-now I feel that opportunity slipping away. Help! This is a stock '72 240z booster that I put new seals in years ago and a 15/16" master cylinder. The rod is the stock 240z part.

Yeah, I got the same disease.