RebekahsZ

Thank you both. Ill get it done!

Don't worry about it, Jon, next year somebody will re-make Josey's simple design in shiny billet and it will sell for a thousand bucks, and work almost just as well !

No solvent suggestions?

Isn't it interesting that the best runs make the most boring videos (my videos included)?! You guys are gods!

Glad you have a good sense of humor.

Is there a proper way to clean the old locktite from the bolt-hole recesses in a ring gear? Or don't worry about and just add more? Also should I use red or blue locktite when re-assembling?

Those would be dusty, blue, coil springs.

Got the fixture(s) made. Whole purpose of this is to be able to swap the CLSD from one unit to another without wrestling the diffs around like a big fish in the bottom of the boat. Attached are photos of the finished product. If I could change anything so far, it would be to use 3/8" all-thread instead of 1/2". 1/2" fits perfectly and it makes it a bit of a wrestling match to get the diff pulled up off the all-thread studs. 3/8" would be a lot more forgiving of minor misalignment, but still get the job done. Burnout photo is just self glorification. Now to get the job done!

What IS it about headers that are so dam n sexy! Keep up the good work.

Was just cleaning out my video file and ran across these old videos. Maybe I'm a perv, but I just couldn't stop laughing! Slick sidewalls.MOV IMG_0752.MOV

Bought my first (and only) Z-car when I was about 25. I'm 45 now. I was looking for a rust-free 510 and found a rusty 240z and fell in love. I've since found some rust-free 240z-s, but I still haven't found a rust-free 510. Started as a purist trying to build car for BSP autocross. Met Terry Oxendale (BlueOvalZ) and the rest is history. When I was 13, my first car was a 1956 Ford inherited from my grandfather.

That video was incredible! Thanks for posting it.

I don't think that cardboard is gonna be strong enough, lol!

I think I bought my booster from a parts house like Autozone - wasn't that expensive. I think the 280 booster is a lot larger to the point of having some conflicts.

Yup, 1-2 is just spin on street tires. Slicks give me a little more time in 2nd but on street tires the shift light just stays on across the shift and its time for 3rd. Skipping first is nicer but I'm trying to slip my clutch as little as possible to try to keep the clutch system together. Yeehah! Freezing here-California dreamin.

Dittos. I've got stock brakes and booster and I just hooked a line that had good bends in it from the little valve thingie on the firewall to the vacuum port on the intake manifold. Works like stock brakes.

I haven't gone facebook yet. Keep me posted once the weather warms up. I'm tearing down for revisions learned this first year of drag racing the car. I'd love to get together with a bunch of other z-cars on a roadtrip. Just read all your signature - man, you've done a lot to that car. You spinning a lot? I'm hoping to go 7.0 this coming summer; best this past summer was 7.29 at 96. Did 7.1 at the first 1/8 during a 1/4-mile run. I'm putting myself on a diet, trying to lose 30#, gonna take spare tire out and put less gas in the tank. I think that might be enough to go 7.0 without adding any power.

Hey, I used info on your exhaust a lot in building my car! I went a little different way, but still did side-exhaust. What you did and the pictures you sent were super helpful - thanks! I appreciated all the detail you provided.

For painting of case, I took a furniture dolly and added some bracing and a 3/4" plywood platform. These little platforms with casters are what I use for tire storage and for moving around engines and transmissions. $15 from Harbor Freight. Drilled (2) 1/2" holes in it for the diff cover studs. Stood it straight up to allow me to paint the entire case without having to roll it around and paint one side at a time. That saved me about a day of paint drying doing multiple coats. Plan for servicing the unit on the bench is (2) sections of 1/2" all-thread going thru the 3/4" plywood bench-top reinforced with big fender washers. Photos when I have that built, Wednesday-ish.

Great minds think alike! Once again, I've found a "while I'm at it" task to keep me from getting the real mods done! More ideas and pics if anybody's got 'em. Wish you lived next door to do the welding for me.

Bracket or heads up? 1/8 or 1/4? How did you run?

I'm tired of wrestling my diffs around trying not to let them fall off the work bench. If any of you have a fixture that you use, please shoot me a picture. Time to invest some time to make this part of z ownership more pleasant.

I wish I had Stacey David in my shop to show me how I was supposed to do everything-and be so dam n cheerful about it. I guess all those guys are just like us: doing what they have to, to get paid. I'm old, and I just far ted. My favorite right now is Fast and Loud-those guys seem like somebody I'd have coffee with and there is no misunderstanding about who runs the shop and who does the deals. I still have a hard time with how fast the guys on these shows can do mock-up, paint and body and get the dar n car running. I mean, just how fast does paint dry? It takes me more than 48 hours to bleed my brakes! When I was a kid, all the cool cars were from Barris and the new guy ont he scene was Butteras (sp?). It was the very beginning of the billet scene, which I'm now glad to see in my rearview mirror. I could watch PassTime all day.

Do they make a wrap that I can put on my belly to make me look like I have a 6-pack? (About) how much does it cost to totally convert a Z to lexan, and would you recommend it for a car that sees a variety of uses? No lexan experience - it's ok to tell me to go and search-I'm getting tougher...

600-800 hp + R200...I'll be watching closely. What stub axle/companion flange kit (and how many splines) did you go with? I'm toying with doing the billet stub thing...