RebekahsZ

What product do you use to seal the threads on the bleeder nuts? I'm having lots of trouble with air coming around the bleeder nuts!!!

So drive around town a little with your slicks on... Concrete joints are a killer with spherical bearings on the camber plates. There's always a little play. A gravel road is even noisier. Any problem on regular bumps or dips? I don't think you can get away from the noisy jarring and jolting that happens on concrete joints or bridge transitions. In my car those transitions sound bad, but really don't rock the car. I thought you'd have a come-back for that mellon head crack!

Anybody with ceramic clutch pucks, please weigh in. This is my first experience with a clutch that has organic on the pressure plate side and cerometalic on the flywheel side. So, I'm driving around town gently, trying to break this new clutch in. Interestingly, I can HEAR the clutch when it is rubbing either the pressure plate or the flywheel. It hisses like a snake a bit in the transition from fully disengaged to fully engaged. Now I can tell FOR SURE that the clutch is not consistently disengaging. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes, when the car is stopped, I'll floor the clutch and move the shifter toward 1st gear and "hissss!" and I can't get the shifter into position. Let the clutch out, and the hissing stops. Try it again, and no hiss until I start to let the clutch out; once clutch is totally out, the hissing stops. Gonna try bleeding it some more, even though the pedal feels great. Every part is new. Distributor who sold me the clutch kit swears that nobody has ever had to shim slave. Is this hissing sound characteristic of ceramic clutches?

OK, I saw somebody's post about your tire shredding and I though the video was available.

We don't have ANY preload with GC system do we? Not unless we have droop limiters. Sunny, how does it ride with the drag slicks? That will let you know if it is tire sidewall, which I think it is. I have same spring rates and shocks. I can't FEEL any difference between any of my tokico shock settings. My car rides very nicely. I can feel a huge difference depending on what tire I have mounted: R1s at 30psi to 50series radials for street to bias ply slicks and skinnies. Seat cushion firmness matters a lot too. You might also be feeling the whiplash effect of those quick a s s ETs and reaction times versus the inertia of your big mellon head. Johnc you forgot to list a loose helmet strap.

I looked at 1320 for vids of your car. Can you send a link? I'm not very computer savy.

I must still have air in system. If I gently rest my foot on the pedal it creeps down but if I stop on it enthusiastically it feels good. With this location, I can pull line up and circulate it thru the reservoir thereby bleeding without having to constantly refill reservoir. I think I still got some air to purge.

Subtle teasing me about the double post? Haha! Anyway, thanks. I cut down a 7mm open end wrench and adjusting is a breeze. I'm just surprised that I need ALL of the pushrod. I guess as the disc wears, I'll wont need as much pedal? I'll try the rev up to 4500 and see if it moves. I wonder if failure to disengage could have played a role in the quick failure of my stock clutch. I've tried master cylinders from 3/4, 7/8, and 1". The 3/4 and the 7/8 are about the same in terms of available pedal stroke. The 1" needed lots less, but it never really felt right (no modulation of pedal-kind of off or on). It was with the 1" that my clutch failed to disengage at high rpm, so I'm not sure that a bigger bore is the way to go. More rain tomorrow, so maybe Wednesday I'll start laying down some miles on this clutch.

Clutch is back together, car is running. Engages smoothly, but I may still be having trouble getting adequate disengagement. I can get the rear wheels stay still when car is on jacks and in-gear, but there is very little safety margin and it takes very little lifting of my clutch pedal to get the tires rotating. I have the adjuster rod lengthened all the way absolutely as far as it can go. I bled like a mother using mity vac and speed bleeders. Pedal feels good and firm from top to bottom. I have an inspection hole in my bellhousing and I can see the throwout bearing move just as soon as my buddy touches the clutch pedal, but while I can see the clutch disc "relax" some, I cant see any airgap between either it and the flywheel or between the disc and the pressure plate. However, I'm only getting about an inch of stroke of the adjuster rod (I put a zip tie on it and watched to see how much it moves. I have a 7/8" master cyl. I have all the adjustment bumpers all adjusted for maximum pedal throw. How much have you got your adjuster rod adjusted out? I also noticed that the hole in the pedal that the clevis pin rides in is sloted and elongated. Should that hole be round-if so, I may move it down a 1/4 inch or so to get more stroke of the piston? If so, I need to pull my pedal and have that hole welded and re-drilled, if so then I may even move the hole down a quarter inch or so to get some additional stroke. Gonna order some more hydraulic fluid (ATE Super Blue) and keep bleeding hoping that there is still a little air somewhere. Ooops. double post - sorry.

Clutch is back together, car is running. Engages smoothly, but I may still be having trouble getting adequate disengagement. I can get the rear wheels stay still when car is on jacks and in-gear, but there is very little safety margin and it takes very little lifting of my clutch pedal to get the tires rotating. I have the adjuster rod lengthened all the way absolutely as far as it can go. I bled like a mother using mity vac and speed bleeders. Pedal feels good and firm from top to bottom. I have an inspection hole in my bellhousing and I can see the throwout bearing move just as soon as my buddy touches the clutch pedal, but while I can see the clutch disc "relax" some, I cant see any airgap between either it and the flywheel or between the disc and the pressure plate. However, I'm only getting about an inch of stroke of the adjuster rod (I put a zip tie on it and watched to see how much it moves. I have a 7/8" master cyl. I have all the adjustment bumpers all adjusted for maximum pedal throw. How much have you got your adjuster rod adjusted out? I also noticed that the hole in the pedal that the clevis pin rides in is sloted and elongated. Should that hole be round-if so, I may move it down a 1/4 inch or so to get more stroke of the piston? If so, I need to pull my pedal and have that hole welded and re-drilled, if so then I may even move the hole down a quarter inch or so to get some additional stroke. Gonna order some more hydraulic fluid (ATE Super Blue) and keep bleeding hoping that there is still a little air somewhere.

Were you "hot-lapping?" How many runs did you get?

Looks great. While you are fabricating, be sure to put a jacking well of some kind in the rocker panel about mid-way to allow you to jack your lowered car - and get both front and back tires off the ground at one time for quick tire changes. My dad was raised in Mountain Home; my great uncle ran Peace's Grocery there 'till he died. Look up Dr. Jay Thompson - I went to medical school with him. Perhaps when your car is together we can meet somewhere between Little Rock and Mt. Home.

When I first did my conversion, I used an 18" speed bleeder from Speedwaymotors.com. I liked how it was cheap and it had a little groove in the far end that let me use a brake line retension system. However, it was a PITA to have to get under the car to bleed the clutch, and the bleeder came with a tiny little bleed nut that was NOT a speed bleeder. When I did my clutch swap, Eastcoastperformance.com sold me a 48" insulated remote bleeder line (has speed bleeder) that allows more installation options. It does not have the little groove on the end of it to allow a little u-clip/c-clip to secure it somewhere. I routed it up thru the engine compartment to the location of the old windshield washer reservoir, that I trashed 20 years ago, down into the fender area. My plan is to be able to bleed the clutch simply by turning my wheels to allow access. In a worst-case scenario, I'll have to pull that tire, which I do before going to the track anyway. I'm going to install an eye-bolt to hang a water bottle from as a catch-can for ejected hydraulic fluid so I can "one-man" it.

Describe your clutch release technique? Just got in from garage getting new clutch buttoned up. All that is left is bleeding the hydraulics tomorrow night. My old flywheel was warped like a funnel (that's an axaggeration but you get the picture), high on the outside and low near the bolts. New clutch disc is 8mm thick, the old one was 5mm thick (don't know where they start). Gonna be several weeks of break-in before posting new numbers trying to match your times. I got a long way to go toward getting off the lights like you.

Looks like you are making friends well in your new town-and then punishing them! 7.11sec 1/8th mile-Nice. Is that on your slicks? Talk to me about how it handled with the ET Drags. What was the mph thru the traps? With the 3.54, where you able to stay in 3rd going thru the traps? You leaving the line in 1st or 2nd? With the 3.90, my times were just as good leaving in 1st or 2d, but I'm reaching for 4th just before the traps. Gonna 3.54 it this winter; got the diff already, just gotta swap in the CLSD and make a puke can system. Always on the look out for a 3.36.

Tranny up. What a job, solo with no lift! Did not enjoy that one bit. Gonna torque driveshaft and call it a night. Tomorrow will bleed hydraulics. I chose this clutch because the pressure plate is the same color as my car! (Just kidding-maybe?). Mantic ER2 from Eastcoastperformance.com.

Aww, you don't need exhaust! You do need fuel pressure. Car looks amazing.

Any concern for cross firing when using zip ties to organize wires?

New slave, new remote bleeder with speed bleeder and four foot line, new throwout bearing, new pilot bearing, new flywheel with ARP bolts, mantic er2 clutch disc and pressure plate all installed. Reinstall bellhousing, tranny tomorrow after church. Then route bleeder line somewhere that doesn't require me to get under car to bleed, then some mighty vac work. Hoping to start break-in on Monday's commute. Pressure plate was cherry but flywheel had a lot of little dings and scratches out of the box. I guess that is what the break on period is for.

In Alabama a license plate is optional but a rifle in the back window is mandatory. Roll Tide!

I also used a dummy power steering pump from them which allowed me to use stock belt and stock routing.

I think I got the offset lever from nookandtranny.com. Sorry late reply-not subscribed.

Worth $600 just to let somebody else fight the damn snap ring. When you specified length to the DSS, did you specify total length or just shaft length? I'm gonna go shorter this winter, so I can start using my camber plates to be able to switch between Zero camber (drag) and 3-ish degrees (autocross). Because of the axle length and my shortened LCAs, I can't really push my camber plates in at this point.

What did it cost for the two axles to include rebuild and custom shafts? Did they put new boots on ( to boot)?

Don't mess with your oil, that was a dirty joke but you aren't old enough to understand it. Your oil is fine-I was just messing around.