RebekahsZ

Her's the pic I screen shot-ed from Hotrod.com after the May 2015 ECTA event. I added the new airman for the June meet. I only went 167 at the May meet.

Smooth at 170, but it was a little darty. You can see the little corrections I was having to make in order to stay in the middle of the course. There's a crack right diwn the middle of the lane. Trying to stay off that crack and out of the cones was my concern. If the cones were ON the crack it would be better. But because of the crack, the course was about half as wide as it could have been. I never knew whether to try to straddle the crack or drive down one side of it (which put you right on the cones). I guess I just need more passes to get comfy at those speeds. 174 is a HELL of a lot faster than 148. 174 is even a lot faster than 165. I can't imagine these guys going 200mph in the 1/8-mile. Those guys are gods. The guys on this site that poo-pooh straight line racing really piss me off-it's a lot harder than it looks. I have been procrastinating a lot since ZCON but the plan is to reduce scrub radius by setting the camber close to zero, then adding as much caster as I can. New tie rod ends and double the spring rate to try to limit suspension movement. The car was pretty straight under power, but the timing section was actually a lot narrower than the course from the 1/2-mile to the 1-mile, IIRC. Then hit the brakes and the car really wandered bad. Those are the big steering corrections you see at the end of the run. Prior to braking it was all fingertip corrections. You guys thinking about joining me at the ECTA? That would be great!

I will try over the weekend. It wasn't an article on my car. It was an article on the event. It merely had a pic of my car.

The spindle pins are a bitch every time. I haven't done the 5/8" conversion but rumor. Has it that it is much easier to deal with. I don't have a link, but I'm certain we have discussed it. I have used a spindle puller and I've done the hammer-cut-torch-hammer thing. You might get lucky. There used to be a spindle pin puller rental here. Been a while. Try searching the suspension FAQs and the Vendor sub forums. Might find it there. I put antiseize on mine liberally before reassembly. Next time one side was easy, one side was still a bitch.

Nows the time to install a mount for a parachute or trailer hitch (Drag Week).

The problem isn't the diff. The problem is the axles.

It was an ebay aluminum 3-row replacement for a 240,260,280z. Champion brand. I wish it was 4 row. Car can get pretty hot at the track. My next radiator will be custom cross-flow to be mounted IN FRONT of the radiator support to make room for turbos. Try to mount it in front if you are shopping for a radiator now-never say never!

You can check to see if it is bottoming out by removing a front and rear wheel using jack stands, then put a jack under the control arm to achieve the same measurement from the center of the hub to the the fender arch as you had at static ride height with the wheel on and the car on the ground. Then take pictures of the springs so we can see how much travel is left. You won't be able to figure anything out with the shocks extended. We can help you. Wish you could ride in anotherZ to see if you think all Zs are too stiff. If so, my offer stands.

That car will never be right. Get out of it while you still can. I will give you $1500 to take it off your hands.

Start soaking them in penetrating oil now, especially the locking pin. Look into a spindle pin puller, and use 5/8" bolts in place of the spindle pins when you reassemble. I think you should keep those stock wheel covers. I agree with the coilovers, but keep those wheels! That car is righteous.

I used an ebay aluminum radiator and ordered tubing from Speedway. Had new inlet and outlet tubes tig welded at the local welding shop, so that the tubing had bends and diameters that let me run available hoses. This wound up being incredibly simple and exquisite. Also had a bung welded into the top tank for the steam vents.

The GM dipsticks look like flag poles. Consider using a Lokar LS dipstick.

Issue in front is that toe-in changes with ride height.

This month's Hot Rod magazine has an article on ECTA and the Top Speed Challenge in May this past spring. They featured several cars including DIYTuning's 240sx. I let the photographer, Larry Chen, drive my car (which set 3 class records BTW), but it wasn't enough to get featured in the article. Maybe we can get some Z-love in the years ahead. A 200mph pass sure wouldn't hurt! Larry did get my car into the on-line version of the magazine back in June.

200 yards isn't very far!

I love it! If you get the chance to post some pictures of the 4-link, I would be very thankful. I'm curious to see how much (or how little) must be done to do a 4-link setup.

Almost 100% of my Z driving is at threshold traction in acceleration and at threshold traction in deceleration, excluding trailer loading, which is on the winch. The truck is either city driving or towing. I just know that my mileage is crap. I burned a full tank of gas during ZCON. I usually burn a full tank at a night at the strip.

Hell yes!! Love it. The rear end will be fine until it isn't. I think the weak point is the inner stub of the axle where it inserts into the diff. The diff will probably be fine. If you have the ability to go ahead and install a solid axle, I would so that you can blast it with confidence instead of fear and trepidation.

Are you trying to achieve safe clearance from both the strut and the flare or are you trying to achieve a certain closeness to the flare for the hellaflush look? The answer will direct my advice. If you have the wheels on hand, please measure backspacing. Offset is a difficult quantity to measure/give advice from.

I don't get near the 20mpg that lots of guys brag about.

Most of the T56s that my buddies have found used have needed total rebuilds. You can buy a T56 or a T56 Magnum from Summit or Jegs new for the price of a used tranny plus a rebuild. So why not start with a new unit? Honestly, there is no reason to have a 6speed on a Datsun. A 5 speed is plenty, and even a 4 speed can be fine. Check out your options for a T-5. I think a top-loader style internal linkage would be most desireable. We use a 4-speed to 150mph and only need a 5 speed to go up to 175mph. 6th gear is just a gas mileage gear, and I never use it. Do a little research with the old google and look at LS motors and old-school transmissions. It is possible and likely cheaper. I have a NV3500 5 speed out of an S10 4.3 truck hooked up to my 6.0 LS in my truck. We used the clutch and pressure plate and hydraulic throwout bearing from a 2004 4.8 liter LS-equipped Silverado. The T6060 has a crazy linkage and a weird slip yoke-I'd stay away from that if you can.

OMG! Feet and knees together!

Bro, I just went thru the photos-freakin' awesome! You do beautiful fab work and that car is incredible. If I eventually build my "dream Z" it will be bagged for trailer loading. I want more control of spring rate, but I will have to figure out how to put bags/brackets on the LCAs somehow. Rear will be solid axle, so I'll just do bagged coilovers hanging off the back of the axle or something. But, you've inspired me. I need the air ride to be able to load and unload the car off the trailer when it is super low for landspeed. Loading with a low airdam on an extended nose is a PITA. Thanks for the example and inspiration!

Look at the Stalker at Bruton Automotive. The first generation Stalker used S10 spindles and tubular control arms. Perhaps you could get something from them. Or at least some ideas.

Cool-will be watching and cheering you on!