RebekahsZ

Lift near the meter, then get back on it, working this out is going to steal a lot of quality time from you. Or start drag racing-we like loud cars! SCCA is really getting annoying with this politically correct sound stuff. Try wearing a smoking jacket, a derby, and an ascot, and talk like you have a pickle up your arse, and maybe they will be nicer and let you race. Better yet, put an old "Obama/Biden 2008" sticker on your car and they won't try to enforce any of their rules. Or a "Hillary in 2016" and they will be too scared to hassle you. Or come drag race in God's country and we will welcome you with open arms-wide front tires and all!

I'm contemplating some landspeed power options...how much does your powerplant make (hp/tq)? What's been done to the LS2 (stock pistons, cam, heads, etc)? How much can I hope to make with just adding a maggie to my LS2?

Burnout water box? That'll get'em hot!

Yippee! What clutch was that? Good to hear about good customer service.

Damn this stuff is complicated!

johnc recommends like 9 degrees of caster in the suspension FAQ. I'm going to be increasing my caster from 5 degrees to damn near as much as I can get even if I have to limit steering angle to keep the tires from rubbing the fenders. Purpose of this is to help keep car straight in standing mile. 74_, are you suggesting that running high degrees of caster is a bad idea? I think I can assume that since this is a straight line event that I shouldn't encounter the problems discussed above (unless of course I get into a spin). Or is this really a problem when large caster angles are COMBINED with limited droop?

Is it saying that the car is knocking or that the knock sensors are bad? On some LS engines there is a separate knock sensor wiring harness-perhaps there is a problem with that? My LQ4 in my truck throws 2 codes routinely that I just delete with my scanner tool and move on: clutch switch and knock sensor. The truck runs fine, starts fine, etc. Its a lot easier to just delete the code than to fool with a sensor that is working against me rather than FOR me. The knock sensors are under the intake manifold and that's more work than I want to take on. On the LS2 in my Z, the knock sensors are on the side of the block and easy to service. I did not put a check engine light in my Z and I'm glad-one less thing to nag me.

Go to members and search with that screen name.

Bucket list trip. Let me get my last one into college next year and maybe we could do something in the spring of 2016 or 2017. My car may be getting a cage in the spring of '16 and out of commission. Would want to have our own little ZCON with a road course (Motorsport Ranch) and or a drag night.

Wish it was practical to have an LS swapped S30 get-together. So many different ways to do the same thing.

This is a legit question. I understand-its a bitch when these break or get stripped. The head of the stud is very flat to allow the slider to glide past it. You will need to get a bolt of the proper thread pitch from the hardware store, grind the head down fairly flat, then as johnc said, have it spot welded into place. Then, drill the hole in the floor gusset a little over-sized because you will never get that bolt to line up perfectly. Z seats and sliders are a pain.

I thought the same thing at the same point in my build. Plan for them, but you will be surprised how fast the space fills up with the essentials, like radiator, hoses, belts, etc. sure you can CRAM it all in there, but you don't want to have to remove all your manifolds and tubing in order to change a spark plug. It gets crowded fast.

I can confirm the model listed above, since that's what my personal 3.36 R200 came out of. To get my 3.36 R200 I had to stalk the owner for 2 years, make (3) 4-hour round trips with cash in-hand and in the end buy the whole car for $300. After that much work, my 3.36 will remain in my possession until my widow puts my parts stash up for sale. I will be installing an LSD carrier and using it for a 200mph standing mile attempt some time in the next 5 years. I found my 3.36 donor car on a tip from a fellow hybridz member in Syracuse, NY who had seen the car listed on ebay and knew how rare it was. Prior to that I had chased several leads in the hybridz classifieds that wound up being dead-ends. If the seller says they have a 3.36 R200, but is too lazy to go out to the shed to double-check the ratio or send you a photo of the ring gear stamping, just walk away. Stick to it-they are out there.

Thanks-glad you joined the forum, you have a lot to share.

I LOVE the radiator mounted to the FRONT of the radiator support. I see lots of guys cutting out their radiator support, but I just can't imagine that I would want to sacrifice the rigidity that the front unibody box crossmember and radiator support have to add. I want to copy (at some point in time) your radiator setup. Please detail that modification as much as you are willing to. Custom radiator, fans, hoses (?), etc.

I'd be interested. I need a system that would allow me to raise the front of the car to allow me to keep my airdam on while pulling onto my trailer. Currently I have to remove my airdam and transport it separately. It would need to be a system that was external to the strut so that I could keep my current spring rate. I would even be ok if I had to use an external air source to raise the car.

Where is turbo mounted?

Send a PM to 1 tuff z. He's in Syracuse and likely has one.

Take a nap-it will pass.

Happy, happy birthday!!

If street get knob type. If road racing, get lever type. I never can remember which way to twist the damn knob in the heat of the moment. If racing, you will adjust it based on tire temps and rain, etc. it really does make a difference if you have legit rear brakes. Most OE brakes will be biased toward the fronts from the factory so adjustments aren't that critical. On race track, running too much front bias will cause early wear out of front pads, fade and boiling, and you will go off track going forward right off the end of the turn. Too much rear will put you in the grass sideways. Take your pick! Old Andy's location is awesome! Mark it somehow so you know if your x-girlfriend has messed with it. I put mine a little more out of sight for that reason, but again, I can't ever remember which way to turn it. Will have to put a reminder on dash.

1974, 260z, 2+2, 4speed. Not very common combination.

I don't know why you think you have to be rich to do coilovers. The new kids on the block are all getting these expensive pre-made kits. But the old guys build their own from parts that aren't expensive. You can buy cheap shocks from Autozone, cheap springs, collars and seats from Speedway. The only hard part is the cutting and welding, but most of you guys can do that. You don't have to get camber plates. The upper spring seat can be tricky but you guys can figure that out-lots of folks have. I have confidence in you. Coilovers will set you free! Do a little searching in the FAQs to learn how they did it for ITS racing, before the whole stance thing started.

You guys have enough skill to build your own coilovers. That would solve all this once and for all.

I been thinking about taking up yoga.