RebekahsZ

Is there a k in pecs? Here's a wild parts at my place. The Z is in the garage to the left with the door open. The old guy to the right of the garage is my pastor. I had to hide the beer. He looked thirsty.

Darius' pecks makes me want to go wax-my back. I gotta stay away from parties like that-somebody might try to ride my wheelbarrow into the pool.

If you can, get the flange on the far right in that pic. It is easier to get a wrench on.

Use wax pencil or sharpie to put a discrete mark the speedometer face at each of the important speeds in your life. Or just drive with traffic.

That's how we roll in Alabama too. The rest of y'all are just posers. Step it up, y'all. Word. #z-life, #jerseyshore, #jwow, #situatiin, #bachelorette, #fantasyisland "The plane! The plane!" I betcha he's late to work on Monday.

No sweat! I'm really only still a Datsun guy for the friends hybridz has given me. I'm a street rod guy at heart.

Congrats! Man, I'm so sorry that was such a pain. In the end you will LOVE your LSD. Way to stick to it.

Bro, get some sleep. You are typing like a crazy person. After that, go to AutoZone and buy some strut inserts. Thats the cheapest way to get what you are after. If you are still exhausted, take a translator so the dude behind the counter knows what the heck to look up for you. When you do the work, use jackstands, cause you are so tired, you will turn a jack handle the wrong way and kill yourself.

If you have a Datsun, you need a press. Look into a Harbor Freight press. They are pretty cheap and you will use it a lot.

Jphglobal sells used roadrace tires.

That's a great track day tire. Don't know how they do in the wet...

Does rain water collect in it?

I run Hoosiers race tires for HPDEs and autocross, but I'm really re-thinking this because I don't autocross more than a couple times a year. These tires age very poorly. A 2 year old summer performance radial (which you can drive on the street without ruining it) will out-perform a 2 year-old race slick that has been heat cycled a few times and stored across a couple winters. So, I'm considering switching to 200 wear rated summer performance tires like the Durezza. Then I can run competitively at a Goodguuys event, an SCCA autocross or to work. That covers the tires for higher budget street AND autocross/HPDE. I can't run at a Goodguys event with Hoosiers but you can on 200 tread wear tires. For size, you are limited by your stock suspension and stock fenders, so in order to avoid a lot of aggravation with trial and error, stick to 15x7s and 225/50/15 tires if you can find them. If you can't find them, go to 17x7s and run 225/whatever/17s. I hear a lot of guys talking about wheels wider than 7". But those guys all say "they only rub on bumps." I'm gonna assume that you will go over bumps. On my 174mph standing mile passes, my airdam started 3" off the ground and on the speed runs it hit the ground. That means that I needed lots of suspension travel (and wheel/tire clearance). What would have happened if I had set up my car with a wheel and tire combination that only rubbed over bumps? I might be dead. You have a car with a powerplant that has more potential than mine, so you will have to be careful to keep your foot out of it unless your hands are solidly at 10 and 2. Hope that helps.

Ok, thanks for clarifying. I hear guys ask about rubber options that will allow them to drive their V8 cars safely. That option doesn't exist. You will not find tires of any size or compound that you cannot absolutely blow off. I can only hook up my 28x10.5 full drag slicks after a thorough heating and lots of VHT. And I bet your car has more torque than mine. I can fry and power slide my 275x17 A6 Hoosier slicks at will. And my street tires only exist to hold the car off the pavement with greater flexibility than my jackstands. You will have to drive the car with restraint at all times no matter what tires you get. If you just need some tires to get the car on the street, Id probably just go to Sams and get their cheapest 195/60/14s and keep your current wheels. With as much torque as you have, your stock half shafts will not last long if you have traction. But if you want slicks, I would recommend 26x8.5x15 MT ET Drag bias ply slicks. 235/60/15 MT ETStreet drag radials will fit, but drag radials are real halfshaft breakers. For wheels for your slicks, you can use either 15x6 1981-1983 280zx turbo wheels, or 15x7 4.5" back spacing 4-bolt Weld Draglite wheels. Both of these wheel options will fit stock suspensions and stock fenders. If only doing 500 miles a year, you can likely just drive on your slicks or drag radials IF your local cops will overlook it and if it never rains. If cost is important, keep running the 14s up front with the same 195/60/14s. If you want to be fancy, put either sone 155 or 165/80/15s on 3.5x15 4-bolt Draglites. That's your street and drag setups I recommend.

Great video and pics. Do you want to be sports car themed and go around corners fast or do you want to be drag race themed and put big and little a on it? What's the budget? How many street miles a year do you plan to put on these tires?

If you need good small parts like that, PM 1 tuff z. He is in Syracuse, NY and has a good stash of small parts and some nice billet dress-up parts as well. Great guy.

I have some experience with the Radial T/A. They suck for traction. And I mean TOTALLY SUCK. I have them on my TRUCK for three reasons: 1) they last a long time cause they are a super hard compound, 2) they are easy to smoke-and I love to smoke tires without putting too much stress on my whimsy driveshaft, and 3) they are fairly cheap. They suck in the dry and they suck in the rain (freakin scary!). They suck at the track and they suck on the street. At the strip, if I see somebody with T/As I know from the get-go that Im gonna leave them smoking at the line. They are a show car tire only cause they look nice. But that's the only place for T/As-on a slow-ass street rod. From your description, your car is SUPER modified. Can you post some pics? It sounds interesting. I think you are being too modest.

That was actually a pretty yellow.

World of Speed got cancelled due to poor salt condition. I've been shut out 2 years in a row due to salt/weather. I'm gonna limit myself to ECTA standing mile because of a more reliable surface. Hoping to make a 200mph run within 5 years. This year is suspension, next year is cage and chassis safety mods, year after that is forged iron block motor, year after that is a snail. I figure it will take doubling the hp to get 26mph faster. Burton Brown is working on a gas modified sport S30 (might be an S130) that is sure to de-throne me in the gas class.

I love Roadkill! I just wouldn't model my Z car build off of there's for anything other than tongue-in-cheek humor. I love how the show documents the frustration, determination and frequent failures that accompany this hobby. On cooking shows, the food is always good. On fishing shows, they never fail to catch fish. On Roadkill, sometimes their shit breaks and they work all night and miss the race-that's reality TV.

Congrats!

Would you consider sourcing a better chassis then move your glass parts over? I bet the rust is why the car was parked when you found it. Great car to park in front of shop as an interest piece, not a great car to try to rustore. Maybe put a great paint job on it, tint windows super dark, put wheels and tires on it then drop it super low so nobody can look underneath it. Make trailer for it and take it to shows, but never take it off the trailer? Probably fastest way to enjoy this car. It's a shame it is in such bad shape but it might be equally shameful for you to spend a lot of time and money on it. I don't think you should crush it, but you might want to step back a bit and think hard about what you are getting yourself into.

I feel your pain. Three possibilities: 1) insufficient slack in pedal stops not allowing master cyl to "recharge". 2) air in the line 3) bad master cyl Start by loosening up all the pedal stops so that the pedal is going full stroke. That sucker needs to return ALL the way up when bleeding (fine tune travel AFTER you get all the air out and the clutch has proven to be reliable). Loosen the pushrod enough that you can jiggle it a little-you don't want that rod tight when bleeding. The pedal should have a little slack in it at the top. Re-bleed system, start with bench bleeding. Make sure the remote bleeder outlet is HIGH -air rises. I went thru a couple bad master cylinders before I got a good one. Get a plug for the line that comes out of the master so that you can isolate just the master. Bench bleed the master, then put a plug in it. That pedal should be like a rock and it should stay that way and not leak down. I fought my clutch for a month. Everytime I have had trouble since them it has been due to #1. You gotta have the stops fully loosened to get the air completely out. Tell me how it works out. Hang in there-you will get it.

-Exhaust leak (a) -sounds like several Seems too fast for a single lifter -rust on waterpump pulley -crank pulley rubbing on steering rack -Flywheel bolts rubbing on pressure plate -bad idler pulley on "fan belt" -Throw out bearing bad -pushrods too short or bent -Main bearings/cam bearings bad -bad bellhousing index Get a mechanics stethoscope or put a long screwdriver to your ear and start listening to things to try to localize it.

Very, very cool!