RebekahsZ

Are you having trouble with your car, Rob? Or are you just curious? Seemed your car was rock solid at Memphis....

Yeah!!!!!! Congrats.

I think the correct answer is: "It depends." I don't know how much hurry you are in, but I'm slowly working on this issue with the goal of minimizing bump steer, and I can keep you posted on my findings. So far I have slotted the crossmember vertically 1". I have made doublers for the crossmember that now need to be welded into place before I start reassembling my front end. My TTT LCAs are a little longer than stock which automatically adds camber, so I did not move the pivot out any. Raising the pivot up 1" vertically essentially placed the pivot at the same height as the inner toe rod. But, the steering knuckles may effectively shorten the steering "linkage" relative to the length of the LCA. So it may prove that a compromise LCA pivot position may wind up being best, as Jon indicates.

Sounds great! Be sure to chase the threads of the aluminum adapters with a tap and use antiseize on the bolts that thread into the aluminum. Use red locktite on the stock nuts that secure the adapters to your stock stubs.

And most stickers.

Lets try to do that. Maybe you could recommend a cheap hotel nearby to crash in after we drag race, when the time gets closer. Send me a message when you find out when ZAttack is and lets try to have more fun than the car shiners. Lets have a show class for the car with the fastest Reaction time, fastest ET and most rubber gumballs deposited on the quarters panels. To hell with best in show. LOVE your new hood. You win the prize for best hood.

Wow-awesome!

Wow-that's great!!! You heading to ZAttack this year? If so, any chance you would lead a drag strip night? My car is in pieces but should be back together by then, and EasTnZ plans to attend and may have his turbo setup done.

My car probably has 50# of pins in the closed cavities! I cut a moon-shaped section out of that plastic panel cause I'm always dropping my fuel tank for something and that strut prop is a PITA. Most common size master is 7/8. 3/4 has been used a few times but your adjustment must be perfect. I use a 1" and the pedal is noticeably more firm, but I have lots of adjustment range in my adjuster. If you wanna do it once and be done-go 7/8". Nobody's flares fit well. The Japanese versions are supposedly best. We all have to stretch them, twist them, sand them, etc. I looked into injection molding, and evidently the tooling is cost prohibitive. So fiberglass/carbon. Fiber is all we got.

For better or worse, I supported the long section of tubing from the stock muffler hanger, the hanger toward the front of the diff and from the tranny crossmember. The long pipes have a flex section to allow for some misalignment. I have unsupported mid-pipes, then my headers. I wanted to put v-bands in to allow me to remove just the section under the diff, and I may still. But that would cost me some ground clearance (a v-band's worth). I also hope to support my mid-pipes, it just keeps getting pushed farther down the list by new business. Electric cutouts are on my list and I've even c-notched the frame rail and cut holes in the fender for them, but something else always screams for attention louder.

It may prove easier to put a different lower tube on the bottom radiator tank. Take a look at how that might change your options. You can buy radiator necks from Speedwaymotors.com that you can have tig welded on in place of the Champion tube which was made to mimic the radiator needed for a L6. Another thing that might be helpful is a straight water pump outlet. I think there are a couple places that make those now.

I feel your back pain. Here's my neck. You will have to rotate the picture-I dunno how on my new phone yet. Gonna talk to somebody about maybe removing the bad disc and fusing the two ratchet vertebrae together. I'm slotting my front crossmember with it installed in the car on jack stands-real neck job! Hope you feel better fast, Mike. I feel your pain.

The inner tie rod ends from ORielly's Rare Parts fit.

I went to that link and there was nothing on rules. There is some chatter on the web about what kind of tires they allow, but I don't see a consensus. Seems they allow roadrace tires, but not drag radials. That will mess up my gearing, but oh well. I have some R6s I will bring along with my drag radials so I'm ready. Assuming my car is back together. I'm not sure how that date will work for me...two daughters graduating this year around that time. Was hoping it would be scheduled later in June or even in July.

EasTnZ-you are such a dinosaur. Get up with the times!

Dash caps rule! 20-minute lifetime repair.

Never say never. It's hard to walk around with a loaded gun and not pull the trigger. A v8 Z let's you have your cake and have it too!

You are correct about the mounts. You need one each (LS and SBC) they are a pair, so you will have one set for you and a set to share.

The organizers of the Texas Mile just announced the intent to start an Arkansas 1-Mile event at Blytheville, Arkansas, June 3-5, 2016, which is just a little northwest of Memphis. Let's make a club event of it!

I have an MRI on my neck scheduled Friday. Trying to get up the courage to get it worked on. Feels so unstable and sketchy that I broke down and bought a HANS device because I'm scared of the weight of my helmet. We play together, we suffer together. Get well soon!

I understand your issue and your desires. But, I have never bought a single aftermarket part that didn't require tweaking, clearance get, de-burring, repainting, etc. Best get used to it. Tell you what, you buy the DSS kit and I will buy the CF kit and we can compare notes and let's write a product comparison thread. We'll partner up. I will buy Joe's kit after I get my lifts in, so maybe this summer. You willing to put up some money on this and let's get it done?

Cut off your fenders? Why would you redesign your suspension around the wheels? Are you racing or stylin'? I'm serious-look into flares, or go back to 7" wide rims.

Still $20 less than mine! My experience withDSS was sub-optimal. But I would still use them for sure. I just found that if I asked the sales/tech rep I was assigned any questions, he wasn't any help and the sale bogged down for days/weeks. However, if I did my own research separate from him then told him what I wanted, he was quick to satisfy. Maybe it was his first week on the job. Everybody has to learn, and now I'm better prepared for my next purchase. My driveshaft was a perfect fit when it arrived. The finish was not as nice as I expected. But most guys spend less time UNDER their car that I do!

NewZed, when you say "stock flanges," I don't know what part you are referring to. When these parts break, it is typically the splined stub axles (either the hub end or the differential end) that break, not the flange. I thought I provided you with some real-world insight; what are you trying to accomplish with your car? If you can propose a testing protocol, I'll do my best to stress some axles according to your desires. But the testing protocol has to fit your desired application to really prove anything. A stock u-joint axle can handle a 800-1000hp car operated at part throttle in a steady state, so none of these numbers mean a thing unless you want to test a car that makes 1000hp at 6200rpm with 100 or so heartless clutch dumps from 6200rpm onto well-heated 10" wide drag radials on VHT so that the car totally dead-hooks. You have to buy the axles, of course. And replace the floor of the car when it rips the diff out of the chassis and drops it on the ground. But one of us is gonna have to pay to play, and real research costs real time and real money. As the song goes: "if you've got the money (Honey), I've got the time!" Otherwise, you have to know that these hp specs are just estimates or WAGs (wild ass guesses). I've already had to have my floor repaired due to differential torque being transferred into the chassis at the rear of the transmission tunnel, so from moment to moment, the axles aren't necessarily the weak link. With the way we love to bash any new product that tries to enter the market, I'm totally surprised that manufacturers even fool with our cars. I look at it as a public service.

In my field, everything you read on the Internet is a suspect, no matter how innocent or authoritative it may seem. Joe, you can count on me for a kit within the next twelve months, cause I'm pretty heavily invested in the long nose R200. I am budgeting (what's a budget?) for garage lifts this year, then it's full speed ahead on your axle kit. At 435# dyno torque on slicks I've broken driveshafts and CV axles along the way and have installed the Wolf Creek kit in the past (the same kit as the DSS kit and White Racing kit, although the I didn't do any destructive testing to determine the metallurgy). I removed and sold the $900 Wolf Creek kit because it reused most of the weak-link parts of the system and had blind fasteners that couldn't be accessed for a torque check. I knew I would break them, so I unloaded them while they still had resale value. I may add a turbo or a 150-shot next, which will increase my rear wheel dyno torque to around 600 and I'm envisioning what would happen if I broke a half shaft on my 4-5 shift a 150mph (mayhem). I can't tell if the DSS kit has new differential stubs without calling them, looks like maybe they do, which is a big plus, since that's where they break most often. I LOVE the confidence your 39-spline outer stubs give me. Please PM me before you sell your last kit, because I'd rather forgo my second lift than miss out on this kit. Question: will I save any money if I already have your 39-spline outer stubs?