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RebekahsZ

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Everything posted by RebekahsZ

  1. RebekahsZ
    I've been working on a 289 Mustang for a buddy. All I can say is "THANK GOD FOR THE LS-series of engines!!!" To think that 5 years ago my original plan was to put a 5.0 in my Z (?). Thanks also to the guys who have encouraged me and laughed and cried with me.
  2. RebekahsZ
    Put a dollar value on your time. For my time and money, the Chequered Flag Racing prices are more than fair. The fit, finish, and quality are great. If building one of these cats was easy, they would be as common as a Cobra replica.
  3. RebekahsZ
    Go to the venders forum. I think Chequered Flag sells them for $320.
  4. RebekahsZ
    L33roller. It depends on your usage. Do it, and report back. My bet is that at some point, you will break an output stub. If you drag race it every weekend, I bet it's broken within a month. If you daily drive it in traffic in town on sunny days it may last 10 years.
  5. RebekahsZ
    OP-kick me off if I'm thread jacking. Looks like Longacre is getting more money from me. Anybody wanna recommend a better bump steer gauge than the Longacre? Looks like I need to check all 4 wheels individually and do tons of trial and error to get minimum bump steer. Then, maybe use droop limiters and bump stops to limit suspension if I can't get bump steer clean. Remember, my goal is straight line stability over acceleration thru braking in the measured standing mile. I'm meeting guys on landracing.com who have essentially fixed their suspension within very narrow bump and rebound travel limits in an effort to keep the car pointing straight down the track. Cars set up to turn left and right may not be able to cheat that way. When I get the suspension assembled and the gauges all set up, I will start my own thread on the process so we can learn together.
  6. RebekahsZ
    If you mean the shafts, the shortened shafts are from JMortensen's group buy way back in the stone ages. I don't know for sure, but I think Chequered flag sells a set for $320. Have you tried installing yours as they are? PM me if you want or text me at 256-366-4685 and we can talk about how I mix and match shafts.
  7. RebekahsZ
    I don't know how you determine the hp capacity of these things. It depends on usage and shocking. Do you have your suspension sorted? If not, here's a couple pointers. You really don't need camber plates in the rear. If you lower the car an inch or two, the rear gains a nice little bit of camber, 1.5-2 degrees negative, that's pretty good for track days and auto crossing if you pair that with 2-2.5 degrees negative up front via front camber plates. So, you can pretty well put it there and leave it. Honestly, I change mine too damn much! Maybe just get MM to agree to make you a different set of axles if there's a problem. They need somebody to give testimonials in order to sell product and from all reports their service is great. The Z31axles change length by sliding within the CV; the 930 axles change length by sliding on the axle splines. You really can't compare them; they are apples and oranges. I'm certain the 930 system is stronger-just more of a pain if you have to service them. But most guys don't mess with their axles as much as I do. I change diffs about every year, just always messing with it.
  8. RebekahsZ
    So, when I'm measuring and adjusting bump steer in my garage, I was planning to set toe in to zero at ride height, then lower the car 3 inches and check toe again, then raise the car two inches above static ride height, then measure toe again and compare the changes. Is this acceptable? If not, please advise. Do I also need to check it at some steering angle? Also wonder how to check it with only one tire in bump...about to do some reading on the good old Internet. Only advise if I'm not annoying you with my ignorance.
  9. RebekahsZ
    Ok great. The MM kit looks good and strong. They look to have chrome moly diff stubs, which is the weak link on all other R200 axle systems. Assuming all the metallurgy is good, their system should be the strongest available. Buy it and let us know how is goes, I think you will be the first, but somebody has to go first. If you add up all the parts, their pricing is fair. The trouble I have with the 930 CV is difficult serviceability. You will get greasy assembling and disassembling them. And you will have lots of hardware to contend with. My love for Z31 axles is that they contain their grease during assembly and there are only 4 bolts to fool with. The required length of the axles varies with ride height and camber. So try to get those settings figured out and don't change them a lot. I have to swap one of my axles when I change from drag race set up to track day/auto cross set up due to camber adjustment. Be a trailblazer!
  10. RebekahsZ
    Find somebody on hybridz who is doing with their car, what you would like to do with yours. Send them a PM. Opening these kinds of questions to the entire forum will yield you a lot of speculative answers. Find a friend and trusted mentor and you will get where you want to go a lot faster. Budget AT LEAST $2000-3000 for a total rearend upgrade. Until you are ready to spend that kind of money, stick with what you have.
  11. RebekahsZ
    Outside the racing community, how many of us have experienced bumpsteer or would even know it if we had it?
  12. RebekahsZ
    Remember not to get too worked up about how much power you produce-all dynos report hp/tq with different calibration issues. The most important thing is to get the car running well. Timeslips don't lie-way better than a dyno number. If you are DBW throttle body, ask tuner to reduce the pedal input rate (that may not be what it is called). My GTO rate was 100% by default; we reduced it to 30% and the car is much easier to keep from spinning out coming out of corners. Another setting to improve is the IAF (idle air flow). Reducing that as low as possible (without losing the ability to idle) assists with weight transfer upon throttle lift. The default IAF setting is set to reduce emissions by slowing the return of the engine rpm to idle when you lift your foot off the throttle. The default setting hinders your ability to accurately control engine braking with your right foot. I want that throttle body to snap to the idle setting instantly as I come off the throttle.
  13. RebekahsZ
    Looks like packers without the slot.
  14. RebekahsZ
    I have an LS swapped S10 I'd walk away from if you are interested.
  15. RebekahsZ
    At some point it may be time to park the Datsun and buy a nice used Z06. Likely cheaper too. What's the end game? I ask myself this question daily. Seen MiKelly try to sort this question out too, but we all keep crawling back like abused housewives still loving the abuser. Something wrong with us. Like a cancer.
  16. RebekahsZ
    Hmmm-I dunno. Maybe the other guys can weigh in. Perhaps this car was more coastal than desert. I think I would blast or grind those spots to a limited extent and see what's left before I cut that surface stuff out.
  17. RebekahsZ
    Went to Facebook link. I will try to add the picture for ya. Hmmm..I dunno..too small to be gland nuts, too big of a center hole for the front crossmember doubler for the LCA inner pivot, too small for the TC rod cups. Some weird kind of lock washer? I'm thinking some part of the TC rod bushing assembly or or maybe inner tie rod end? Hole in center looks about as big as either a strut rod or spindle pin. Seatbelt bolts are 16mm..part of a seatbelt reel? I really have NO idea. Johnc/1tuffz/Mortensen/tube80z-can you guys identify that part?
  18. RebekahsZ
    There will be no references to race or ethnicity on this site. White feet matter. White asses too. I've been called worse.
  19. RebekahsZ
    Luck dog, living in CA with surf and desert-preserved cars! I'm probably here for life since my wife hates moving and I just built my dream shop (not finished and still need more space). I guess if there's paint bubbling on the lap joints they need to come out. I have only one such place on the joint below the rear bumper where the fender and rear valance come together. It's the rust you can't see between the two panels that you need to be concerned with but if the paint is a little thin where the lap joint creates a corner, I'd just scuff that off. Send a pic of some of the spots you are worried about. The Kroger in Corinth always has the best gas prices in the area! I think there's an old song that says "When you get tired of California, I'll still be here." Or something to that effect.
  20. RebekahsZ
    In years of hard abuse the only welds that had broken are the welds in the tranny tunnel. They are at the edge of the panels and the metal has torn away from the infrequent, globby factory welds. I think later cars have a lot more spot welds in these areas. The broken welds are at the junction of the tunnel and the firewall, along the tranny area where there is a joint for a floor lap weld and in the diff area of the tunnel. No broken welds in the engine bay or cowl area or strut towers. That tranny tunnel must carry a lot of tension. All Zs seem to crack in the A pillar and B pillar of the roof. Some guys say that's just from filler contraction, but I think the car flexes there as well.
  21. RebekahsZ
    These are only my humble suggestions based on 35 years of owning old cars. A lot of what you are calling rust I would call patina. All the repairs you do will rust on the inside of the concealed panels just like the part you cut out. From what I've seen in your photos, the only rust worth cutting out has been in your battery tray/fender. That rocker panel looks great-sure wouldn't replace that or cut it out looking for internal rust. If any of the lap welds don't have rust now, I wouldn't fool with them either, you are just likely to start a problem where a problem doesn't exist. When it comes to sandblasting, consider the fact that sand will strip rust, paint, and any factory primer and rust proofing/tinning/metal prep. My car was chemical stripped then ground to the bare metal by a prior owner, and now any little scratch in the paint turns instantly orange with rust. I wish I still had some of that factory prep left. So, I would limit my sandblasting to areas that really need it and I would not do the whole car even though all the car shows on TV do that. You are doing a great job on your fab work. Looks great! I've got my eye on another chassis that is in dry storage. The only part I plan to strip is the panels that the prior owner sanded to the metal before he got cancer. They have surface rust. The rest of the car I will lightly sand for paint adhesion, then paint right over it in the color of my choice. No way I can metal prep as well as the factory.
  22. RebekahsZ
    Oh, but there's so much good used race rubber out there in 18" sizes.
  23. RebekahsZ
    Google the AutoPower adjustable seat back brace. I think you may be trying to combine the seat back brace AND the seatbelt attachment. Would considering them separately make things easier? Look for a thread deep in the Interior forum under my avatar called something like "Installing Kirkey aluminum seats." I've passed tech twice at ECTA, which uses the NHRA rule book in teching toolbars and cages. Only group more tech psycho than SCCA is the landspeed crowd at ECTA and SCTA. These people really just want you to survive an accident and walk away.
  24. RebekahsZ
    You shot a pic of the passenger side. The passenger side doesn't have to pass tech. Send a pic of the drivers side. Why don't you just go to the track and see if it passes tech? To adjust that bar, you will need to remove the interior so you don't set the car on fire. Might not be worth it if the car will pass tech as it sits. NHRA tech is not as tough as SCCA tech. SCCA seems to be the most draconian-maybe even a bit psycho. NHRA is pretty lenient. Plus your car isn't that fast, so they will be more lenient for that too.
  25. RebekahsZ
    The only thing I will do there is promise not to buy any more until these are all broken. I will probably use my 3.70 LSD as the case/carrier donor for the upcoming 3.18. 3.70 is kind of a limbo ratio for a higher horsepower Z car. I may let the 3.36 go at some point at a very high price-that diff took some work to get. But it would be a good auto cross diff for the way my local club sets up courses, so I dunno....I think I would let the Shiro VSD with axles go, but I might be greedy and try to get something like $1200 shipped. I think it's a 3.90, though. 3.90 is a good ratio for 1/4-mile at 126mph on 26" tires, but you are out of 1st and 2nd really quick. Probably not great ratio for a 150mph turbo car. That ratio is good for 150mph, but you'd need to get into 5th gear. I better save this for PMs or a classified ad before the moderators get me for thread jacking.
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