RebekahsZ

All of this assumes that you are a perfect driver, driving perfectly and operating at the limits of your car's capabilities.

I had my cookies turned off. Turned cookies back on and all is well. I like cookies-chocolate chip and macadamia nut.

My diff has been whining for 25 years.

I think it would be fine.

I bought it used off this sight. I will try to find a source that is representative.

I'm down. So how many passes did you get out of this last long block?

I'm not an experienced or trained driver, so I don't always know how to translate how the car "feels" into the right words or the right modifications. All I can really say is that the car feels "apprehensive" at about 150 and it is REALLY apprehensive at 170-WITHOUT the tall spoiler (that includes No-spoiler and the short-spoiler). Now, WITH the tall spoiler, the car feels settled and planted-I feel like I'm on my way to Public's to get groceries. The 173 run was done with the short spoiler and it was scary. 170-171 was achieved with or without a spoiler, but without a spoiler the car is kinda scary to me. The final run of the day was done with no spoiler and a big headwind and strong crosswind gusts. The car felt apprehensive (I think this may be the same feeling as "instability") from 150 to 170, getting worse with increasing speed, then after crossing the finish line I lifted the throttle too abruptly and weight shifted off the rear axle-this caused the rear of the car to swerve left HARD requiring me to whip the wheel left pretty fast to keep the car pointed down-track. I realized what was happening and got back on throttle to shift weight back onto rear tires and car settled, then I used all of the remaining runway to stop, being much more gentle as I lifted throttle until the car was going much slower. I think that without the rear spoiler, the rear develops lift. The trip never sought to go faster than 175mph. Rather it was a Test-n-tune trip to test the spoiler options and also to test the effects of radiator opening blocking. With the opening that I put in my fiberglass airdam/splitter, the car gained no degrees of water temp from start to finish line (194-194 degrees). When I substantially blocked the opening, the car went from 198 to 221. When I installed a blocking plate that was somewhere in between, the temp only went form 194 to 210. Mph did not seem to be influicenced by radiator opening size. I will plan to run with my radiator hole open in the future.

Tried that-didn't help. It must be my privacy settings or something...hybridZ is treating my phone like a non-member in terms of access, even when I'm signed in.

Yep!

You say "300" block...do you mean $300 block? I'm looking to build a turbo motor (preferably a 4.8) for ONE landspeed race, assuming the car goes 200mph on the first outing, which is a big assumption. A minimum power goal is 600hp, but it could take as much as 800hp, depending on who you believe. I'm hoping to show up to the standing mile track with tunes for 600, 700, and 800 hp boost levels and the ability to start small and "turn it up!" as needed. Mathematical modeling says 600hp is all I need, but I am suspicious that I will, in fact, need more. Some form of traction control will be part of the plan. Can you describe the modifications you did to the "junkyard" motor to prep it for your turbo kit? I find some of these "junkyard" claims to be hard to believe-help make me a believer!?

My computer is still working fine; the problem is only with my I-phone. Last week the phone kept begging me to update it so I finally did. I don't know if this problem is related to the update or not. On my phone: I can read threads, but can't post a reply. I can't start a new thread. I can't post pictures. I can't edit my threads. New, unread threads are not high-lighted as they are on my computer or as they used to be on my phone.

I have a 3.36 diff that I need to swap a CLSD carrier into. It has been on my bench for a year and I just need a little nudge to make this the "job of the weekend." I already have a CLSD carrier and new clutches from Gary on-hand. Please give me a call at 256-366-4685 when you are ready to jump into this and we can do it together at the same time to help fight thru any issues that come up for each of us. I may run into ring-bolt size issues as some older ring gears have 10mm bolts and the newer ones are are 12mm-that's the only delay issue I can see for me once I open this diff up and get it apart. I have done this work twice in the past but haven't had to replace any bearings-the one diff I have bought that had bad bearings, I just gave it away or took it to the salvage yard. Good open diffs are just too common to bother changing out expensive bearings that can be damaged when installing.

Those lamps are boss! When I get my welder I want to make a coffee table out of camshafts and a crankshaft. Great work, both of you-I would so drop coin for those.

Savage42 on this site makes replacement clutches. Send him a PM. It is easy to do the 6-clutch upgrade-you don't need any special tools, although a vice is handy and so is an air impact wrench for breaking the ring gear bolts loose. You may want to hit those bolts with a propane torch some too, as that will soften up any locktite used in assembly. The phillips screws that hold the carrier together (under the ring gear) can be tricky, and a hammer-style impact wrench with a screwdriver fitting can help with that-dont be afraid to hit those screws with a little heat too. You want to avoid rounding those screws out as they probably can't be replaced easily. I recommend 4 new clutches and re-use the 2 stock clutches in your R200. I also recommend NO shims. If all your bearings are smooth, you just need to replace the rear cover seal. If there are no chunks out of the side axle seals, you probably don't need to replace those. I've never needed to replace the pinion seal. There are constantly posts on this forum about trouble with the OBX. I've held one in my hand that was broken-in my mind they are junk. The CLSD is pretty trouble-free, but be prepared for a little banging on slow turns-you will get used to it. There will be less of that if you avoid shimming it to a high static breakaway torque and as it wears in a little.

The guy who is best prepared to answer some of these questions has a screen name of 74 5.0, or something like that. He's a big autocrosser and has done a lot of spring changes and will be better able to talk to this issue from an intellectual perspective. 2.5" springs are cheap. You can buy them from Speedwaymotors.com for $55 each-no reason to spend more than that. I ran 225/250 for years then got my ass handed to me by a guy with 450/400 at an "autocross" which consisted of a road course with a slalom in the middle of each straight-away. His body roll in photos was so much less, even though we ran similar sway bars. I went to 450/400 because my airdam was hitting the ground at high speed. I just wanted to keep my suspension from moving so much. Stiffer springs allow you to drive more to the limits of your tires, rather than to the limits of your suspension geometry. Basically, it kind of eliminates your suspension to some degree (at least that's the way I see it). I think the thing that limits how stiff you can go is the roughness of the roads you will frequently encounter. If your local roads are smooth, you can go harder. If your local roads are in bad shape, I'd go softer.

Ohio Mile. Ran (5) 170mph runs, a 171mph run, and a 173mph run. Rained entire first day. Got 3 runs on a crowded second day, then 3 runs on 3rd day with a thinning pack and motorcycles being held due to crosswinds. Then rain shut down day 3 early. Don't freak about the proofs-I have purchased these photos, but they are on my laptop. Truck had an idler pulley start squealing on the way home, so we had to do some repairs-seems to be a pattern with me. Had to use the Z to chase parts. The sign in the parking lot says "No car work allowed in parking lot!"-lol.

In prep for the Ohio Mile, I re-glasses the splitter into the airdam.

Car ran great at the GA 1/2-mile but only achieved a best speed of 144mph.

There's nothing you can't break if that is your goal. Drive it like you love it and it will last longer than if you drive like you hate it.

It's funny how the trend has swung from higher rate in the rear to higher rate in the front. It may depend on what style of racing one is doing. I used to go higher in rear to get rear end loose for auto tossing. Now I'm trying to keep the ass planted since it wants to lift, and the air dam off the ground since it wants to compress. I thought the 450s would jar my teeth out but they don't.

https://youtu.be/YJGrX5QB090

https://youtu.be/XmkElftPDLg

His mounts are worth the wait. They provide the best clearance for turbo upgrades in the future.

No experience with that kit, but it looks like a deal!

Rear spoiler is now a permanent fixture on my car. With a splitter on the front, at 140 mph, the car gets twitchy. A tall rear spoiler settled that down. I made several 1-mile runs this weekend, all at or above 170 mph. With the rear spoiler, the car was very comfortable. My final "all or nothing/hell bent on victory" run was without a rear spoiler to try to reduce drag. I only went 170 again and the car was scary going down the track and slid to the left suddenly at least 10 feet upon throttle lift as I passed the timing beams. I actually had to cross-steer to keep the car feom spinning. I need to find an old post where someone told me to install a spoiler-I need to do some grovling and say:"You were right." I did try a BRE style short spoiler for one run where I ran a fluke 173, bit the car was almost as scary with that spoiler as it was with nothing. I would have liked to try that short spoiler again, and I will in the future, but my brother took it off the car while I was changing my pants-lol! I'm. Not going to draw a lot of conclusions based on a single run. My car is a 167-174mph car. This weekend it was virtually all 170s regardless of configuration. I did manage (1) 71 run with the big spoiler and the 173 with the small one, but I was still only 170 on the 2-3 runs I managed to have the courage to make with no spoiler at all. I always seem to have one unexplainable quick run during these meets that defies logic and makes me think the timing system had an error. I know this post started about splitters. My car has acted this way consistently even after I cut the splitter off last year (I recently added it back on). We have a lift problem at the rear of these cars that deserves attention above 150.