RebekahsZ

I wish my local chapter used chalk lines between cones. Looks great!

Just submitted an offer on a 1931 Model A chopped coupe.

It can be hard to find time to clean up! I usually clean when I cant find 3 tools in a row.

OK. I will try to get it listed in the classifieds in the next few nights. Time to let her go.

I have a rust-free 280z 75 here in Alabama. The front frame rails are bent. They have been straightened by a body shop and repaired to some degree. The fenders fit and door gaps are fine, I bought this car for a landspeed build and its just not something I want to go 200mph in. Consider this a rolling shell that you might need to fix the rails forward of the firewall. I haven't listed it for sale, but it would only take a little push to get me there. I paid $1500, but I'm open to an offer if you would come get it and put it to good use.

Which island do you live on?

A spoiler like that doesn't create downforce-it reduced lift. That's cool-very simple design and probably will be pretty effective. But you would need to pay for wind tunnel time to really know.

As a 510 guy, have you ever done your own alignment work? Can you take a tape measure and try to figure out if the toe is set correctly? You should be able to set the toe to zero, then adjust each tie rod to equal length, then fine tune the toe again? A set of Longacre toe plates are $149 if you can't borrow a set. Anyway, as a Z is lowered, it toes out. So, if that picture is taken at static ride height, with the crossmember on the dirt and the LCA angled up all goofy, your tie rods may be too long for that ride height. You have two lock nuts on the right side-you could remove one of them and gain some adjustment range there. If you have two lock nuts on both sides, that could be your problem-they gobble up about 1/2-inch of threads each. Wish you lived next door-we'd have you fixed up in a couple hours. I'm in N. Alabama if you wanna come on by.

My local drag racing fabricator charges about $800 to make a set of custom headers. When it is time to turbo, I will likely use him rather than fight the plug clearance issues and chassis clearance issues that off-the-shelf headers so often have. $800 to a local craftsman beats $200 to China plus $600 of cussing every time. Don't neglect to check you local recourses. China gets lots of my money, but hopefully only when it makes sense.

Is that the ride height you plan to drive/scoot the car? Or did somebody steal your wheels and tires?

High mount with hood blister? Mount it on driveshaft?

And speed magnifies everything. Little of this matters under about 100. I just picked that number out of the air.

You are a freakin' god!

I miss your daily posts. Stock Car Mafia and coffee is how I start each day. Get back to work!

I'd call this more of a friendly chat than a debate. Cause this weekend all this stuff takes a back seat to a set of book cases for my daughters freshman dorm. And we are all just a bunch of buddies having fun. But: Returning to the "stock" bumpsteer curve is probably not a good goal, if you want to eliminate bumpsteer. Now, I don't know jack about bumpsteer for road racing or autocross. I do know that my car kinda "hunts" under max traction straight-line braking (tail seems loose) on track days regardless of bias adjustment (I work with that too), and the tail feels loose on the transition from on throttle to off throttle and light braking at the top end, say 170-ish on a straight course. I think I may have some REAR end "steering" issues. I have these problems no matter what style of LCA bushing I use (rubber, poly or aluminum). Now, back to the front end. The stock geometry has lots of bumpsteer from the factory. Disclaimer: I don't know what a LOT is, I just know it looks like a lot. If you will text me and ask for it, I can send you a little video showing the bumpsteer of a buddy's '70z as we jack it up and lower it. 256-366-4685. But I dunno, for autocross, is it beneficial to get some dynamic toe-out on braking? To help you "turn in?" As for me, I want no bumpsteer in front or rear for two reasons: to keep car going straight as possible, and to be able to make quick ride height changes in the pits without having to change toe while I'm at it. I got one more day in the wood shop, then a trip to deliver my daughter to college, then it's gonna be a 2-month car only orgie in the shop. In order to go straighter, I'm even willing to limit steering travel (call me the Anti-drifter), to allow me to crank in more caster. With stock fender openings, I can't get more than 4.5 of caster due to fender clearance.

Bump steer spacers don't correct bumpsteer. At least not completely.

Nobody checks til you start winning.

That's the nicest floor replacement I've ever seen!

My Walbro255 (or is it 225?) and corvette FPR have been trouble free.

.mov videos don't do well on this site. Can you try uploading to YouTube, then post a link?

Wow!!

I'm just stating facts as I observe them physically-I don't yet understand the "why" of it. Over the next month or two, I'm gonna be trying to adjust this tendency out if I can. When I autocross (really not more than a couple times a year) or a track day (once a year), I let other folks drive my car, sometimes with me in the car, sometimes I just let other folks take it. I get lots of compliments on how well it turns in (it's the only car I've ever driven hard), and I get suggestions on how to improve the car and my driving. Since the car toes-out on forward weight transfer, I don't think we need to run a lot of static toe. Just fly up to the corner and pile on the brakes, then turn before the front unloads. If you don't slow enough, you won't have enough traction to change directions-go too slow and you lose time and exit speed. Getting that little maneuver together is pretty hard in and of itself. But it's not the car so much as the driver. I DO think I'm running too much camber and it is hurting my straight line braking. I'd like to come from -3.5 to -2.5 but my bolt in camber plates limit precise adjustment.

The stock Z car toes-out under braking.

Gary, have you tried it? I'm betting you have. But, I have poly bushings and when I left the u-bolt off, my car wandered really bad and when going over grooved pavement like we have on heavily trafficked intersections, the car kinda went where ever it wanted to go. Replaced the u-bolt with the rubber pad touching the x-member, the car drive great. OP-why don't you like the u-bolt?

If you think that drag racing only involves going straight, you haven't driven a very fast drag car. Be kind with the clutch.