RebekahsZ

ECTA announced that this is the last Mile event at Wilmingtilon. They are looking for a new venue. I classed up-to AA/GMS to get in the record book another time since this is the last meet. That is a neglected class. I posted a best of 173mph today. This stock LS2 continues to out perform.many heavily modified engine platforms. On my first high-speed chute deployment, my tether found a sharp spot on my mount and cut almost completely thru. Car felt remarkably good under chute. Sux to cut a chute that is so new. More to learn. Quickly learning that a chute is a consume able item.

If anybody is close to Wilmington, OH, come by this weekend. I will be running Friday-Sun.

I'm so much better with composites thanks to you! Just re-bonded splitter onto airdam with bondo then laminated 2 layers of glass over that. It should be plenty strong.

For a stupid reason: they came in ceramic coating. Then I cut them up so the coating became irrelevant. The JCI headers are likely a better choice. But modify them for v-bands-V bands rock!

TTT

Try going to a stick and race the numbers-it sucks! At my local tracks they are happy just to have enough cars show up to justify firing up the grill to sell a few burgers. So far I've never had anybody get dirty enough T to check for a driveshaft loop (which I have) or a SFI Bellhousing (which I have). Seems like belt dates and a sufficient number of bars on the roll cage are what get most folks. I'm pretty sure Josey did Drag Week last year without axle restraint system. But, when an axle breaks, it usually does a good bit of damage to the brake lines and sheet metal. I may come looking for you next year for a couple slices of that 1/4" pipe to build a system. I hope to be putting 800hp thru Z31 axles in the next couple of years, and I'm scared about it. But not scared enough....

Did a track ask you to leave or are you being pro-active? If you design and build it, there may be a small market. Maybe me!

Namor is calling that right. But you can't count on an inspector to understand it. We really should have axle retention loops if only to reduce carnage should we break at speed. It's just a matter of figuring it out and dedicating the time and money. Something always seems more important to me (though this is pretty important). The trick is to make it serviceable. And the NHRA rule book is pretty restrictive on how you could build it: 1/4" thick strapping. Several people have contrived versions using u-bolts, which would probably get the job done. But they don't comply with the rule book.

I'm too slow for tech to care. But I do feel vulnerable. Rules come from landmark accidents-often fatalities!

I only noticed cause I need a larger radiator and am watching what others use.

With 10" slicks in back and 4.5" front runners, I had my rear bias adjusted to allow as much rear braking as possible this weekend at the 1/2-mile. And, I was using my hydraulic handbrake on the rears as well. It's nice to be able to put the braking power where the traction is. I have AZC all the way around.

Will depend on your tire diameter. And which gear you plan to be in, in your transmission. Find a gear calculator on line and play out your options. Short answer: 3.54. Best all -around diff ratio.

An interesting trend (which makes no sense to me) we are seeing at Z-oriented track days. If the car has no rollbar, the inspectors are allowing stock seatbelts of any age. But, if a rollbar has been installed, they are enforcing racing seatbelt expiration dates and installation standards. Very strange double standard, but be aware. Your rollbar could actually keep you from participating in some track days (???). Crazy stuff.

There are 2 reasons for toolbars, and I accept both as legit: 1) for safety, 2) to look cool. I have had roll are for both reasons, so I'm cool with either. If for safety, they should conform to the rule book you are racing under. If for looks, the builder can do pretty much as he pleases. On my current rollbar, the horizontal bar does two things: seat support and harness attachment, so it is often referred to as a "harness bar." I have a bolt on piece that extends from the harness bar to the back of my seat; this really makes my seatback solid. My rollbar passes tech for NHRA and ECTA. I also built it with features that should make it pass SCCA tech, although I'm too slow at autocross for anybody to really care. That piece on your rollbar is too light to conform to any rule book I'm familiar with. It looks to light to be in compliance as a harness bar, seat brace or head restraint. I think it is just the result of a creative imagination. And I'm cool with that.

Maybe talk to member name: crapforum. He just knocked a nice build our very quickly. Maybe he will change his name to "buildquickhybrid?"

Does the hood clear that radiator cap?

More caster (and I mean just a breath more) fixed it. Car goes and stops straight. Full report next week after 1/2-Mile. Target is 150mph. Maybe with a 20mph tailwind!

A touch more caster Left side fixed it!!!!! Tomorrow we see if airdam needs trimming. Thanks every body!

Perfect advice. I will add some caster on the left since it is going left. Thank you so much for using language I can understand. I was gonna call you if you hadn't replied by the time I got home from church. Thanks for your generosity.

Truck fixed. Airdam carrier installed in truck. Lots of brake work today. Still pulling-it's not the brakes. Gonna try some caster changes tomorrow. Need to scare up some corner weight scales-I'm thinking that a lot of caster could unload a wheel(?). Smaller spoiler in prep for some fiberglass reinforcement, large spoiler solidly attached but awaiting better hardware. All chute parts are in paint now, just need to practice packing it. Death from a million cuts.

Same issue with multiple tire combinations. Sitting under car I look up and say: "damn, all this caster changing probably affects corner weights..." Of course I don't know anybody with scales... Having a ball and learning lots. Just a little on the tired side.

I'm now certain that you are correct. Read to end to find a question. Soooo, I mounted the gauges on both front calipers and used my line lock to set pressure to get measurement to eliminate some human element. Left side showed 100psi higher pressure. Swapped gauges-now right side says 100psi higher. Therefore, psi is same left to right; my gauges are 100psi out of calibration from each other-ha! We were very methodical about this so I have total confidence in our test. So, I'm saying brake hydraulics are good. Then, we swapped calipers left for right and kept the pads with their associated rotor to keep them bedded. Bled system carefully. And went on test drive. Car still pulls left on braking. Very subtle drift left with hands off wheel while cruising. I will be starting tomorrow after church with caster adjustment. My caster gauge says that both sides are at 6.0 degrees caster. Here's my question: do I ignore the gauge and set the length of each TC rod to equal measured length, from center to center on the TC rod clevises? And if I measure and find both TC rods to be equal length now, with the car pulling left (and the left wheel locking first), would you go longer on the left TC rod, or shorter? I'm freakin' exhausted. My plan is to change the TC rod, adjust toe, then test drive-over and over until done. I so, appreciate all the help from everybody! At least I'm done with brake fluid...

Trouble shooting delayed by truck with a broken throttle cable forcing me to use Z as primary transportation. I did check temps on the rotors yesterday. Does anybody have a good rule of thumb for how many degrees (temperature) similar or different the temp of left and right rotors should be to be acceptable?

Really missing johnc right now....

Cheap-my eye! Look at the shipping.