RebekahsZ

I have three sets of Rota RB/RBRs-I'm happy with them all.

Went by shop to check on truck today. Looks good, but still a long way to go. I will add pics in a few minutes in the edit mode. The cost is mounting, I'm at almost $10,000 already and there is more to do. I think I'm still looking at 2 weeks from now to completion. Only destructive changes from stock that I can see is that the radiator overflow tank had to be tossed and a universal had to be put on the fenderwell. Even after going to a mini-compressor for the A/C, there still wasn't room for both components. Used a Holley swap oilpan, but still had to notch the front crossmember. The headers from Stainless Works ($875!) are beautiful and fit like a glove. Unfortunately, they terminate into the transmission support crossmember, so that has to be clearanced. Looking at the cost spreadsheet that he gave me, I really don't see much out of line. The main place that cost could be saved is with fabricated parts like the engine harness (instead of buying a PSI swap harness), and brackets like the Holley alternator and A/C relocation kit (which is beautiful, BTW). Could have skipped the new diff gears and LSD, but I'm having him go ahead with some traction bars-no point having power if you can't get it to the pavement. Gotta pay to play. I think I am going to have a very stock looking swap when all is said and done. Even asked for a stock LS muffler if available, so that it isn't too loud, although the aftermarket cam, traction bars and the anticipated cowl induction hood (this winter) will give some suggestion of what's going on. Just looked at the pics I posted-I wonder if the front accessory drive is not matched with the crank pulley (camera angle?), maybe another delay....

SunnyZ-I'm figuring the deferred cage project is what's keeping you from posting time slips? But, I gather from Slow78z's thread that you ARE getting some unofficial passes....how are things holding up? How many angry passes have you made on slicks since the turbo? I'm seeing wfritts's 8.8 setup coming together on texas300's car and I'm wondering how your front diff mount setup is holding up. I have only made 3 passes this summer, the last of which gave me a broken axle. Going to do a bunch of binge work to get car ready for the Georgia 1/2-mile which I will do on borrowed drag radials (I plan to leave easy and shift like I'm having a pillow fight with my sister). Then, I'm switching to roadrace setup for ZNats track day at AMP. Just haven't heard much from you and want to catch up.

Mike, do you have a build thread? All your fabrication is top notch and I think we could learn a lot from it. I think it would help us if you did....maybe I'm just a bad searcher. Can you post up a link?

I'm so glad I was wrong! Honestly, I don't mind being wrong one bit-I'm just so glad you are back on the road. I was wondering how it was going and have thought several times to ask for an update. I used to run the camber bushings in order to reduce the negative camber induced from lowering the car. I hatde all the noise too! Try running them down a gravel road! Bridge seams in the asphalt are total joy-if you like going to the dentist and getting your fillings knocked out! I pitched them and got bolt-in camber plates (which cause a little noise too, but not nearly as bad). But, I already had coilovers, so it wasn't that big of a deal to add the camber plates and adjust camber from the top. if you want to control toe, I think your best option that is readily available is the TTT adjustable LCA. Do you have any pics of the trashed M-bar bushings? I'm trying to remember how that bushing is made: there is a sleeve encased in rubber that is vulcanized to the inside of the mustache bar loops...are there bushings that I've forgotten about that sandwich the mustache bar between the big washer and the "frame?" When I was thinking that I'd never seen a bad bushing, I was thinking of the vulcanized part that you have to burn out with a torch to install aftermarket poly bushings.

The Wilwood stuff is a joy to work on.

Maybe just a little snuggle?

How to fix it: it's a 70s car-the fit and finish wasn't that great from the factory new! Try to find something else to think about. Have you seen the fit and finish on a Hemi Cuda that hasn't been "restored?"-it was terrible. Put some shiny wheels on that car and you won't notice the funny gaps and other factory imperfections. These cars were meant to drive for a few years and throw away.

I don't want to own it, pay for it or drive it, but I definitely want to have sex with it! Sorry, that's a little weird.....

Great! It's gonna be awesome.

Looks GREAT! I can't wait to get your driving impressions of Will's rear setup. A couple of potential issues that I see, but you probably already see them too): I have seen one, but no more than one, description of the rear crosmber breaking after cutting it to notch it for something-or-other. I see where yours is notched for the fill plug on the diff-might want to reinforce that with a doubler plate or something. Second, be sure to test fit the motor with the crank pulley and the alternator and steering rack installed. Those are common interference points.

"Very little rubbing." By my definition, that means they DON'T fit. Not trying to pick a fight, but the follow-on question is: "how much rubbing is acceptable?"

"While you are at it," weld in the load spreading structure to be able to insert a sturdy receiver hitch. That could later be used for toting a trailer during Drag Week, or for a parachute when you exceed 150mph in the 1/4-mile or 175mph in the Ohio Mike or Texas Mile. Think BIG now-I wish I had...,

Hooray!!! Unfortunately, I'm out of town and my phone can't play the video. Two months to finish buttoning her up!

My ass is starting to look like that. It normal.

Kennymonster, can you put a camber gauge on that and tell us what camber you achieved in the max negative and max ppsitive settings are?then post up what the range of adjustment is?

I LOVE those wheels, I just don't want to be the one who has to keep them clean! Been tossing around the idea of a set for me.

There are two styles and the style I prefer is the harder of the two to obtain, so if you have a good source, throw it up for me please. There is a larger sender that has a spear-like connector; hard to find a female snap-loop wiring connector to attach to it. The smaller sender uses a simple loop on the wire and the sender has a little 9mm (the head is 9mm, the thread is more like 4-5mm) screw/bolt in the end that holds the wire on it. I have found the picture of the smaller sender in several catalogs and ordered it, then what arrives in the package is the large version that I can't get a wire on. Anybody got a reliable source for the small sender with the screw? I assume (we know what that does) that it is an earlier version that has been superseded in all the parts books? Probably cause the early part leaks-haha!

Not an authority on this: but unless there are signs of major collision, I wouldn't bother with the frame alignment check. If you are really concerned, I would just get a 4-whl alignment check. All the welding will change things but it is only the wheel alignment that matters. My chassis is really tired with lots of broken edge welds in the transmission tunnel , so I know it is a noodle. That being said, I had trouble with my drivers door dropping a little and being hard to close. But after my 6-pt roll bar (main hoop with door bars and rear braces), the rear end of my door dropped a full inch! I had to replace my door hinges and the door barely fits in the door frame because of compromises required to get it to close. So, things may change after all the welding. Maybe less, if my car had been more stiff at start? But I've never had any problem at the alignment shop and the car runs straight, hands relaxed on the wheel at 120 mph.

If you lose the gap, you might need flares (?)

Maybe the other guy had 3# of dirt in the bottom! What did you use as your spot weld cutter (source and part number)? I need a lesson on that!

The most durable design is the factory design, all the adjustable designed are less stable, by the nature of their adjustability, so of course they should be inspected on some schedule. The ONLY reason I know of for all the billet pieces, whether AZC or any other, is bling. And it does look good, and is well made. The suspension doesn't move enough (with stiff springs) for most of this stuff (that we bench race about) to matter as much as we think (my opinion). Mock up the camber, toe and caster you want and drive it! Somebody does need to make rear LCAs that are shorter than stock (the rear LCAs from the defunct MM were the only ones I know of that are shorter than stock), then there will be no reason to buy the AZC rear LCAs. But until someone does, AZC is the only off-the-shelf LCA that can be used to narrow the track in back as a means to fit larger rear tires or reduce the negative camber induced by dropping the tail. I don't like the pendulum arrangement of the inner LCA mounts either. Once the car is mocked up and aligned, could they just be tig welded to the aluminum saddles that AZC provides?

Looks great! Can you come clean up my shop? Yours looks spick and span!

Wow!

You've got plenty of time to get the bugs out before October! Following your successes-keep up the good work! You inspire us.