RebekahsZ

Have you given any thought to swapping to 280z hubs? Much more plentiful. If you swap the rotors for 280z rotors, the calipers line up fine. Just have to keep 280 rotors with 280 hubs.

Reminded me of the time my hood release cable broke on the Z, but way worse. Since then, I have converted to four hood pins instead of the cable mechanism. Kept looking at my buddy's Honda to try to figure out how to drill holes for a hasp and bike lock. Tony D-so the Honda lock failure is a known problem? Who needs Click 'n Clack when you have Tony D? You came up in a positive conversation I had with Burton Brown at Wilmington. Guess you've been a resource for him too.

Just spent the entire day working on a friend's Honda with power windows and power door locks. Somehow, the lock had malfunctioned locking the door permanently. His dad had tried to use a drill to disassemble the lock, effectively removing any option for us other than cutting into the b-pilar and removing the striker from the reverse side. I think we used every tool in my shop, but 8 hours later we had a new door locking mechanism in the car and working. This kind of miserable work is why I hate doors and dashes. What a day! At least I strengthened a friendship.

Hang tough!

A little off subject, but Wilwood makes a caliper that is compatible with a cable parting brake. I would have pursued that caliper, but the mechanism is external and there is no way that it would clear my 15" drag/landspeed wheels. I am eager to see somebody develop a kit using that caliper but it would probably be only something that could be used by folks with 17" wheels. It kind of sucks not to have a parking brake.

Love it.

Warps like a mother....

Love the build and fabulous fab work. Honest question for the purpose of learning: can you remove the spark plugs with the exhaust manifolds installed backwards?

This car is impressive. Please post more videos! A lot to learn from.

Solid rear axle = SRA. Dancing shoes: have you gotten an alignment yet?

That's incredible! Still hopeful that you will do a super detailed SRA thread.

A stick and a twist-tie.

Well maintained z cars don't get light at 100mph. Worn out tie rods and narrow, high aspect ratio tires get light at 100mph on any car.

You guys need a hug-let it go! Drive friendly.

Please only get an S30 if you are in for the long-haul. This probably doesn't apply to you, but I am very concerned about the z-car rat rod phenomenon. This site recognizes a certain reverence for the 240z, 260z and 280z and there is a growing trend to treat these cars like total crap. So many Z-car projects start and don't get finished, which results in a partially disassembled car that, while once rebuildable, is now totally destroyed and only good for the crusher. If you start, please finish. I cried real tears when I cut the tranny mount out of my Z for the LS swap, and seeing the old L24 get carted away was like watching a funeral procession. I felt every slice of the saw when I cut out my rear fenders for flares and I still haven't had the heart to do my front fender flares. If you don't have an irrational PASSION for z-cars, please get something else-they are not the BEST platform for a performance car. Dollar for dollar, I really don't think you can beat a late '80s/early '90s Mustang. They are great drag cars, decent autocross cars and formidable road racing cars (IRS isn't nearly as important as we like to think). There are tons of them around for super cheap, the aftermarket support is incredible, and the rust-proofing from the factory seems to be very good. If I didn't have a passion for Z-cars dating back to about the 6th grade, I would be a Mustang man all the way for shear practicality. That being said, I expect my little Z-car to be item #1 of my estate auction after I am gone.

Thread is going off topic. The 10mm LSD carrier has sold. Moderators consider locking thread.

The two are not mutually exclusive!

The quiet knocking sound in the oil pan of my truck and zero oil pressure at idle was a big part of the decision not to take the car!

Specs are for rookies-post us some timeslips!

His wife probably cut him off till he put it up for sale. Been there-done that. Still got the wife and the car.

Great-thank you. I will take some measurements and chat it up with the rep then order a single wheel and see what happens. Eventually ya gotta just dive in.

I'm actually looking at Marsh Racing Wheels MRW (they were the first vendor to pop up on a google search for "landspeed racing wheels." MRW adds dzus fastener tabs and sells Moon discs as a reasonably priced package. I asked about Diamonds because I see a lot of chatter about them and the design looks to be the same or similar. JMortensen, I will check on the "deep bell" option and will remember your offer tube80z. I'm looking at 4.5" BS in back and probably 2" BS in front.

Thx

How technically does one do this "crack checking?" I ask in an effort to learn.

I'm looking for anyone with experience fitting 15" Diamond Racing wheels over the AZC 4-pot brake kit. I want to go to steelies for my landspeed wheels so I can run Moon discs and be sure to pass tech as it relates to exposed wheel stud length. I currently run 15" wheels, but I don't exactly know how the barrel of the steel rim necks down as the wheel approaches the stamped center. The AZC kit requires a FULL 15" inside diameter all the way to the wheel mounting flange. Hoping to get advice from actual Diamond Racing wheel users, try to limit speculation or random advice regarding wheel fitment. Thanks.