clarkspeed

It is just insane how many hours I have put into mounting the hatch. The simple things always take the longest. And I already had brackets fasteners from previous install. Had to fab up my own support strut setup. And I am still fine adjusting the entire thing so someone can remove and install quickly.

My custom made 3d printed aero hood latches are mounted.

Car is getting some tail tonight!

The tranny/rear is a trade off. You really dont want to shift to 5th at 120+mph. The wind resistance will drop you 10+ mph and if you are not in power band you will not accelerate much after that. Not good for Daytona. Rule of thumb is the more peaky your engine is, the closer tranny ratios you need to keep it in power band. The other rule is select gearing to be well into power band or just over in top gear, top speed. Depending on engine you may need a different rear/and or tire ratio to run Daytona, it is different than other tracks. Many club racers run the final 1000-2000 ft at redline, but that can be risky.

Finished up the 17x8 wheel conversion on a turbo 280z. Got the geometry perfect. All the TTT suspension parts made it easy. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/15JMLRNJpd/

Its already fixed. I have these unusual gnose wide body panels i think are fairly aero efficient. So really the only decisions are if I want to run a cowl induction hood vs. standard no vents. And tall rear 7" spoiler vs whale tail. Input is welcome. Leaning standard hood and big spoiler. Working on mounting these NOW.

Little safety work ongoing. Finished up the roll bar padding.

Got the sensor figured out. It is idling around 130-140 F. Should be OK. I have to post a video. Sorry but I think this thing sounds bad ass. I have an insert in the exhaust so I dont need earplugs.

And clutch now finally working as intended. Needed to grind the bolt heads down to 0.200inch to keep from hitting clutch rivets. Now have an overheating problem. But I think it's just a sensor reading wrong. Hopefully easy fix. And a small leak in a water hose fitting. Keep thinking I am almost ready for testing but the hit list keeps getting bigger. More pics coming.

Yes I have both. And bleeding the clutch is as simple as opening the bleed screw, let a few drips out, and tighten. The thing that takes longest now is removing that giant shifter and the 3 shift rods. And adjusting shift throws when reinstalling. 3 bolts hold shifter and 2 rod ends per shift rod. I can't find a better way to speed it up. AND I cranked the car Saturday and the clutch is close but still not fully released. So another round is coming.

I am posting this to celebrate my triumph! After full assembly of engine and tranny I could not get the clutch to release. Quartermaster 7.25 v-drive attached to L6 flywheel from TTV Racing. Quatermaster 710 series TO bearing. Chevy clutch disks to mate with 4sp Jericho. QM Button clutches require precise gap from fingers to TO bearing of .120-.150 so I removed tranny multiple times and reset the gap with shims. Everytime I measured gap I got a different measurement. The clutch slipped a little with pedal in but required a breaker bar to rotate driveshaft. Remove tranny, reset gap, reinstall, bleed clutch, check release. After maybe 8 times I stopped and thought about it. Then read directions for the 10th time. Suddenly it stuck out, make sure clutch disk does not interfere with flywheel bolts. I've seen this before. Years ago I ran a similar set up with the head ground down on OEM flywheel bolts. This time I am using ARP flywheel bolts for a RB26. They are 12pt bolt heads already kind of thin, so I didnt consider they could interfere. Well I was wrong. So I ground maybe 0.020" off the head and reinstalled. In the pic you can see marks where the clutch rivet went across the bolts and 3 bolts I have already ground down. On the positive side, I am very efficient R&R the tranny now. Maybe 90min total. And it pops into the pilot bearing like a glove.

Nice work!

It was a neat circle track solution to a packaging problem. In hindsight I think it added too much weight. May try to redesign way in future.

Found this on Grassroots Motorsport web page. Seems Legit Garage is adapting some interesting modern trannys to other platforms. Think $2k for a fully sequential used 8sp box, any HP needs you have. The ZF-8HP from BMWs, Dodge and others can be fully reprogrammed for sequential operation and even add a dbw pedal to simulate a clutch launch. Might be a good project for someone that could adapt this to an L6 easily....Derek? Transmission Solutions | "Seems Legit" Garage https://share.google/HyOxohcae82yQu0Th

And finally the new cold air intake I 3d printed in nylon/cf

My first prototype of a printed taillight surround and final version. I printed in 3 pieces then laid fiberglass over the back to stiffen them and bond together in 1 piece.

Header wrap and insulation

Some more 3d prints

Finally we took some POR15 chassis black and painted the exposed metal. Under the flares it looks almost invisible.

For the front's we bent a length of 3/16 rod and tack welded it in place. This stiffens the fender back to OEM or better. I have seen a cut fender wrinkle before when doing hot laps on a track. Weld and grind smooth.

This is where it gets fun. We cut the rear inner panel slightly longer than the outer panel. This allows the inner fender to be bent and lightly hammered out to match up with the outside panel for welding. Stripped back the paint just far enough were we were certain it would not show around the flare. Then weld um up.

Just went through the process of installing some small carbon fiber ZG's on a 280Z. Goal is squeezing some 18x8 wheels underneath. Probably nothing to learn here, but this is how I do it. First we sized everything up and looked at it. Then looked some more. Then swap them all around and looked more. Then repeat 10 times. Finally we drew a fat line with a Sharpie on tape where the cuts would go.

I'm back! Sorry for the long delay on posts, family, work, and travel have sucked up time along with losing a laptop that had a large number of photos. I have restored most of the photos now and will try to catch back up. Polycarbonate windshield ready to mount, firewall extensions, and rear fender liner.

Those hairline rotor cracks are common when running giant rotors. Even though you are getting very little rotor wear due to the size of the brakes, the heat cycling eventually forms the cracks. I've ran them on track probably about twice as bad as your pictures.

Good luck. A lot depends on the compromises you are willing to make. Ultimate Track Car and dominating time trials is a lofty goal. A good, fast, reliable, safe track car is very achievable and will bring many smiles.