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clarkspeed

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Everything posted by clarkspeed

  1. Yes, and I will keep it secure with those same ty-wraps. I used the real thick ones.
  2. Nissan was celebrated at the Mitty a couple weeks ago. There were some very cool cars there both on and off track. This is a video I made with photos and in car footage. Enjoy.
  3. Did you happen to weigh them before mounting?
  4. Big Jim @ Dover Cylinder in Orlando does all our work. Best in central FL. He has a very good eye for detail that you need. Don't know what machine he uses. 407_481_0088. Tell him you know me.
  5. Note on SI valves. My head builder always has to straighten them before install. If you do that, they work fine. Ferrara and Manley were custom last time I checked.
  6. I agree with above. At 10:5 the stock N42/N47 is on the hairy edge of 93 pump gas no matter what cam you choose. Unless you can get 100 octane for free, not worth it. Otherwise leave it stock and just work on freeing up intake and exhaust.
  7. We had to rebuild the rear quarter panels on the current car so they might have a little flare in them but much less than a zg. Car has 15x7 with 0 offset wheels, 225/50 tires, and they just barely fit without rubbing. Actual total spacing is 0.337 for rotor and 0.5 for wheel spacer sitting on top = 0.837" on each side. We did fit checks with big nuts and washers on the wheel studs and lowering the coil over springs to make sure everything would fit, and it was close. Here are some pics without the wheel spacer. https://www.flickr.com/photos/150831472@N06/shares/9k9HXv
  8. I miss measured the center of the car in the rear about 4" when building the frame holding fixture. (measure twice, weld once!). So I couldn't quite get the side to side cg exact. If you look close, there is a 4 cylinder crank and some steel ty-wrapped to the passenger door cage. Otherwise if would have worked perfect. I may re-do the fixture later.
  9. After looking at all the variations on the net, I decided to go my own route. Mostly 2 and 2.5" square tubing. Acme thread adjusters to center the weight. Didn't want the greased pipe in pipe for rotation so sourced spindle pins, hubs, bearings, and 8" wheels from etrailer for about $100. I think I have about $250 in it total and the thing practically paid for itself the first time I used it. I can't believe I actually considered trying to work underneath this thing. It also rolls around on the floor easy. As you can see, the car does not weigh over 1/2 ton, but I could upgrade it to han
  10. That rotisserie is not so hot. Check out my one hand check out spin last week for the rotisserie I designed/built in our shop. https://www.facebook.com/262575520591481/videos/801158750066486/ (I know it is not as nice as theirs, but humor me)
  11. I have been drawing my own and getting them waterjet cut in aluminum.
  12. A common problem. A good seal around the hatch is usually enough to correct if exhaust exits at bumper. I know some racers that have an exit under the car just past driver, but don't know their struggles. On my last car I ran oval exhaust tubing to cross over and exit on passenger side in front of rear wheel. Never smelled exhaust when driving, ever.. But did wear an ear plug in right ear.
  13. I have a super cheap setup for the rear using front calipers and Saab rotors. I developed for race car we are running now. Disadvantage is wheel spaces out about 3/4" on each side. If you can handle that PM me.
  14. Nice use of plywood! Btw, 2:04 is not to shabby for first time to VIR. Based on what I have seen on this forum, you are definetly ready for Pikes Peak.
  15. Wow, that is a really long open fast course. Glad you are ok, cars can be rebuilt.
  16. Taylor Race Eng can probably also hook you up.
  17. I don't know what a perfect sway bar is. But I suppose it would have the correct spring rate to balance your car to near neutral handling in combination with your rear bar, springs and roll center heights.
  18. My preferred approach, similar to above, is remove both the block and valve. Install a metric to 3/16 adapter at master. Run pre-cut 3/16 line from master to a 3/16 tee, then to each of the short lines left in front with another adapter. MC rear gets adapter, 3/16 tube to New prop valve in cockpit, then 3/16 tube to another adapter at the rear tee. Measure carefully, get a cheap tubing bender, and make it all look nice!
  19. Bore it .120 over and drop in 280 pistons.
  20. You are awesome! Did I already say that in an earlier post?
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