Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Everything posted by clarkspeed

  1. No big ass bolts. I always wanted to center drill those things to lighten anyway. Yes the cradle is there to prevent fore and aft movement. It's kind of light, I could beef that up a little. Oh this car will be plenty low. I notched the cross bar above the diff to raise it up higher. The exhaust loops over the tranny, down the tunnel on passenger side, then cuts across for a side exit in the rocker panel below the passenger door handle. I'm starting to gather my photos to start a build thread when I realized I didnt have any of the rear suspension work.
  2. Here are a few pics of my redesign of the pick up points on the rear control arms. I thought about this for such a long time before going this direction. This car I am building is going to be dropped a large amount and I really wanted to bring the roll centers back up and also make them adjustable if possible My design goals were to use the modified control arms I built a few years ago and avoid adding any additional weight. Less weight even better. Of course one possibility would be to add a tube to the bottom of the rear upright, but I didn't like adding unsprung weight and no way to ma
  3. I think this is the first time I went through your entire thread. And I have to say you have done it right. I am more into road race now, but if I were building an FP car today I would follow a similar path. Personally I believe lowering both sprung and unsprung weight is the key. I really like your brake and wheel setup. The only disadvantage you have is not using an early 240 shell to start with. But you have almost compensated for that. I am familiar with the John Thomas car and really his only advantage is the weight, a strong Rebello engine, and most of all, his extraterrestrial driving.
  4. The standard for 30+years is the electromotive stand alone. I believe the megajolt is similar but open source and there are some others out there for use with carbs. All the EFI systems have multiple ignition solutions built in.
  5. You will need to install dedicated sensors and hardware to read them. Like an Innovate or simiar.
  6. Yes, I was looking at this and not a lot of shocks fit into the required form factor. Pretty much needs to fit inside 2" DOM tubing with 0.188 wall which has 1.624 ID. Over 2" OD and you lose ability to run 2-1/2 springs. Kind of rules out most adjustable shocks. Are the 36 Bilstein racer rebuildable? I know their 46 have an abundance of valves, shims. and tools available and plenty of instruction on how to do it yourself.
  7. I know we are getting off the original topic, but I have another crazy idea. I was reading some old posts and saw one by JohnC that described converting a monotube shock to an inverted strut. So I started thinking about this. I don't see why you could not replace the strut tube with something of appropriate diameter and use some Delrin for the shock body to slide against. Sounds easy but of course alignment and tolerances would be critical and possibly some polishing. You could probably even add a seal to keep the bearings clean. I googled around and could not find any references to doin
  8. I always keep a few shims in the tool box to correct brake run out. It has always worked for me, but I use the stock hubs also.
  9. I still enjoy bench racing on this forum also. So many things have been covered but technology changes with time and there is a real hardcore group here. I have a bunch of FB pages I comment on but it is just not the same as this forum.
  10. Very true, but when I said very very fast I meant it. AutoX and Runoffs National Champions. I don't think Greg Ira will mind I dropped his name here. That is hard to argue against. And at roughly $400 each, they are a bargain. On the other hand, I know Greg's program well, and I don't think shocks are a big contributer to his many podiums. I don't know anyone racing the 8610 single adjustable. There were some posts on here a few years ago on the valving, but even that is probably outdated.
  11. For what it worth, I happen to know some very very fast Z cars run the plain old 8611 Koni double adjustable. And they dont have any problems with premature failure. I think the lower settings fall right into the window you are looking for. The adjustment steps are kind of coarse, but at some point you are splitting hairs.
  12. After Cary brought this up, I was thinking about the same thing. Really the only problem is having enough room and solid mounting for the shock. I don't see any reason you could not hook it to the sway bar mount preferrably in line with the end link. Yes you would need a solid end link, but 1/2 would probably work, hopefully not a 5/8, but I would need to think about the forces involved. I don't think shock travel has any influence. When selecting shocks, you can see there are a lot of travel lengths available. The shorter shock usually has shorter travel so it kind of works out. So if y
  13. This is also what I was told in a suspension setup class from a few years ago. The correct thing to do in the rain is change spring rates and roll bar rates to increase grip. But depending on the situation, that is usually not practical. So most go for a shock adjustment because it is better than nothing.
  14. I have thought about doing this also. Do you have any pictures of this type of setup?
  15. I ended with the same full circle you did about 4 years ago. I was, and I guess still convinced a race shock that is rebuild able by the user would be the best low cost option. I'm sure with a few trials I could get real close to the optimum damping. But paying $450 a rebuild adds up quickly when you just want to experiment. That low speed damping is just so critical for driver feel and different drivers like different feels. For me it is most detectable under braking, I go to full brakes fast and hard. It is like a timer, as you provide input through steering wheel or brakes, the harder
  16. Yes, I got the jacking thing backwards. Too much rebound causes it and that is not your problem. I went back and looked at some of my shock tuning info and your setup with 100/100 was not a bad idea at all. That should feel very responsive in transitions which would be beneficial for AutoX. I think the devil is in the details for shocks though. The shock dyno shows what is happening, but without adjustments, how do you know more or less will help or hurt? I did think the Bilsteins could be tuned anyway you want. I just assumed they use the same valves as all their other race shocks which
  17. OK then. Yes a school that puts the coach in the passenger seat or even better, let a national champ drive your car with you riding. I friend of mine who was a very respected driver let John Thomas drive his car one time and was blown away at the techniques he used. The one area where sim racing = real racing is thinking out of the box. That is what separates the good drivers from the mediocre. Being able to try something new and learn from it immediately. Guys like me are doing that to gain seconds, the pros do it to gain tenths. And no substitute for more seat time. Anyway, from my rac
  18. Just switch to flat top pistons to up your CR.
  19. You are mostly autox'n correct? That is a special category. If HPDE or time trials let me know, it will be a different answer. First of all, for a beginner, DA is easiest applied to driver analysis. Next concern is analyzing a 60s run you can only look for major issues or make a comparison between run 1 and run 2. If you tried a slalom 2 different ways, you could definitely determine the best choice, but analyzing a single run is doubtful you would see something you dont already know. I am interested in your online coaching statement. I assume you are racing online. I also run iR
  20. I only use those things to answer the question "what's going on under there"? I run a full data acquisition system and add forward and rear facing cameras when in a race. I got real heavy in the data side of things a few years ago and now do analysis for others too. If you want to dip your toes in data, the phone apps are getting pretty good. Also the Aim Solo. And I think some of the new action cameras collect data.
  21. For quick down and dirty videos I have a couple of rechargeable cameras that record to microSD like these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nanny-Cam-Video-Camera-Tiny-Small-Pinhole-DVR-Digital-Spy-Hidden-Secret-Wireless-/381414328453?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 I bought them used a few years ago, but I see you can order from China for 12.95. They record a good 45 minutes or more and are easy to ty-wrap in unusual locations (no jokes please). You have to manual turn on, but they are pretty durable in a metal case even though I don't care if they got destroyed. I've mounted t
  22. A GoPro or similar mounted underneath can give a wealth of info of what is going on. I bought a couple of tiny 720p cameras for 20/ea and ty-wrap those things everywhere. I lay video snap shots in PowerPoint and estimate max distance traveled for each component. Poor man's data acquisition!
  23. Makes perfect sense to me. I will incorporate in future builds!
  24. Kind of off topic, but here is a picture of the adjustment I added to a stock arm. Pretty simple and it was just bolted on to the roll bar and a clevis was bolted to the control arm. It worked perfectly.
  25. Comparing the control arm angles and tie rod is the starting point. Actually measuring bump steer is the logical next step. I'm not sure what ends you have on the Woodward rack, but perhaps you could also add an adjustment there? You can do the larger spacers (2"?) at the steering knuckle, but you might end up having interference with the tire/wheel. Keep an eye on that. If you are using a 5/8 bolt or tapered bolt at the knuckle, it should be plenty strong enough.
  • Create New...