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Everything posted by clarkspeed

  1. Most road racers run the R180 with some type of limited slip. I run a R200 only because I have a couple of Quaife LSD's made for them. You could probably even get away with a R160 for sprint races. CV's are debatable. Consensus is they have less drag. But for durability I have seen as many S30 CV's fail (road racing) as u-joints. For best reliability of either, best to have the angles as level as possible. I have seen Z drag racers with drag slicks and 600+ HP run fine with some spicer u-joints. They just made sure the squat on green light made the axles horizontal. But a CV will defin
  2. John, I anticipated you had already considered everything on my list. Your car has more planning and engineering in it than I could imagine. I just thought I would list some of the lessons I have learned. I did make a mistake above, I didn't run a rear bar with the stock front bar. Writing about jogged my memory. That is how I ended up with a stock front bar. I was running your standard front and rear aftermarket bars that I had made adjustable. It was a perfectly balanced setup, but I wanted to drop the rear bar to get the power down better and save weight. After doing the math, I found I d
  3. That is a lot to digest, but I think I follow your journey. Some things I have run across in my current and previous designs: 1. Weight is a concern. If you end up with a setup considerably heavier than a couple Suspension Technique bars and bolt style end links, you are going in wrong direction. 2. I usually target around 1 degree of body roll at max lateral G. So if I run relatively stiffer springs, then sway bar rate can be reduced. I once set a car up with 400 lb springs, a stock front sway bar, and a ST bar in the rear. Both made adjustable (so the front was actually stiffer th
  4. Some of the main differences from EP to other racing classes is 15x7 wheels with slicks, full fiberglass fenders, hood, and hatch to meet min weights, along with engine mods. If really going for it, I would recommend a turn key engine build from a race shop that specializes in this formula. A 240 also fits into ITS class with much less modification. Vintage cars are typically built to 1972 SCCA production rules. Some organizations are tight on rules, others not so much. Either way, they will still group the car to race. Check out SVRA website for some 240Z rules. I you want to give
  5. 22 rod ends are not going to be light either. I can't help but to guess that F/R conversion will add more weight than any performance gains.
  6. Not sure why you want to reinforce the pedal box? The firewall can flex some, but the box is pretty solid. Installing dual MCs is a different topic all together. I don't think dual MCs are really necessary for the street, but if you really want them, the easy/cheap way is to modify the existing pedal box. You need to remove the box and cut access holes for the balance bar. Weld a bushing in the brake pedal arm, and weld a laser cut plate to the firewall with the 2 mounting holes or make the plate yourself. Easier I think than trying to fab up mounting a pedal set in an area that is difficult
  7. If your first race car, does that mean new to racing also? Been to school yet? Then having a reliable car and getting as much seat time as possible is very important. EP is a very fast class and most have serious built cars in my region. Not necessarily the best class to start with but not impossible. I am mostly into vintage racing but have done some engineering for the EP guys.
  8. Now that is some brake cooling! I think most switch to rear disk for convience. No adjustments, easy to change, pads cheaper than shoes. Both will stop equally. When racing stock brakes and running 20 minute spint races, I never had much issue as long as I changed pads frequently and didn't try to stretch out the life. It doesn't take much wear on the front pads before they lose all temp control. MaybeI Improved cooling like in the pic would help. I never ran cooling to the drums, but always did use finned aluminum. Oh, and most racers I know just use plain old cheap $40 solid rot
  9. Sounds like you are on the right track. I would say most successful EP 2.4L engines are built for 8k or better. They replace rods with Carillo or Pauter. Forged pistons. Nismo bearings. Deep oil pan with windage or throw in a dry sump. All kind of standard stuff, done to lower risk, if not preventing failure. Why are you running 91 octane? EP max is 12:1 compression. You need all of that.
  10. Brake pads are very sensitive to the designed temperature range. And the temperature your brakes generate is dependent on many things obviously, but rotor/caliper combination is the hardest to predict. For AutoX I have seen some guys running some really lightweight stuff to reduce unsprung weight. I will assume they run a higher temp pad for this. But still you need something that develops close to max friction when cold. For track, cold temps are not an issue after 1\2 a lap. But finding the right temp match to pad is not easy if you are running aftermarket or custom setups. I recommend us
  11. Finally someone offers a decent brake upgrade kit without enormously too large rotors. Maybe others will follow.
  12. Yes, the extra capacity helps, but really need trap doors to prevent pressure loss. Or run an accusump.
  13. I love facebook also. I am a member vintage racing Z's, datsun classifieds, vintage imsa racing, race parts for sale in southeast, and maybe the most impressive is homebuilt cars from scratch. Its mindblowing and puts every build show on TV to shame. And I am only mentioning a few along with maintaining my own garage page. These communities are great, but no substitute for a good build thread or detailed model specific explanation or sticky you can find in a forum. Hell I put "forum" as a search term for every question I google about any vehicle. Hybridz really is a nitch group with limi
  14. This site is still pretty amazing. It is hard to believe how many generic auto terms I Google and HybridZ pops up in the search. And as far as dead, I think there are too many other distractions now so volume is understandably lower. HybridZ is the last place I would go for chatting, looking at pretty pictures, and meeting other Z people, but for hardcore tech questions, HybridZ still seems to be the best solution. Due to the lower volumes, responses take longer, but you can still message an expert if needed. As far as the community, look back at old posts and many of the "newbies" now have
  15. And I think 1 tire always locks up before the other one. But it should only be slight difference and not cause bad issues like changing lanes or something. I have never driven a car where both front tires lock at exactly the same time. I think corner weighting mostly balances L/R transitional and steady state cornering.
  16. True. But car weight distribution is not always an easy thing to correct. We are kind of lucky with the S30 chassis that it is close to 50/50 F/R. But getting 50/50 L/R is not quite as easy. Anyway, I always start with front ride height even where I want to get my desired roll center and clearance. Then rear even although slightly higher. I then try to get the cross weights correct by adjusting the rear, and only tweak the front if needed. I dont know if this is right, but it always results in a tame handling car for me. Then at the track you can add/subtract more rake by adjusting the
  17. Try Rick Bowers @ mojo performance over in Merritt Island This would be right up his alley. You should be able to reach him from this forum. He knows Datsuns and turbos and can program just about any EFI.
  18. As stated above. Wilwood also offers a front hub that will fit. But the rear is either expensive custom stub axle or redrill the stock
  19. I swapped in a Sweet column w flat steering wheel and adjustable mount. It will fit anyone.
  20. Yes, devil in the details. Basically doing everything the rules allow and everything you would read in a balance and blueprint book. Every clearance checked and rechecked. Every tolerance maximized and duplicated. A lot of other SCCA classes and pro-racing follow the same recipe. And the best dyno proven parts that are open like exhaust. It is hard to get there building yourself but >200 at the crank is very possible on a 2.8, but don't underestimate running a 2.4. Higher rev limit with lighter weight is as fast and sometimes faster. I just refreshened a 2.4 ITS engine
  21. Geometrically, I don't have a clue how to make that work. My suspension software does cover it, but it would take some thinking to understand what the trade offs are. I guess BMW uses some version of that Probably not that hard to implement. Officially it is called a "virtual A-arm". The "virtual pivot point" is the imaginary point where an extended T/C rod and control arm would intersect. Looks like you design for this to be close to the center of wheel to eliminate the scrub.
  22. Looking good. I will be very interested to see how your weight comes out. The shell I started with looked much like yours now. It was missing firewall, all the floor tubing, work around the transmission tunnel, and no windshield. But had a full cage and front tubing similar to yours. It weighed in at 500lbs. I really really want mine to come in < 2k.
  23. Well to answer the simple question, I recommend sourcing materials from your local auto paint supplier. They typically have a range of products depending on your budget, have plenty of advice, and might even be cheaper depending on the quality you desire. Plus you can run out and pick up another can when you need it. A small book can be written for each of the 6 topics above but it is possible to teach yourself. Just don't underestimate the time it takes to learn a skill and then apply it to a whole car. I think I spent close to 250 hours on the first car I painted. Painting is the
  24. I like your approach. Very interesting selection of parts. I also looked at using the Mustang stuff, but never got around to test fitting parts.
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