Mike kZ

Thanks guys! , Myron, I did run it on my Desk Top Dyno, but the heads I have are not on there and also the fuel injection is not the same. On Desk Top my engine ran 370hp 381 ft lbs tq.

Thanks! I believe they are 7" each and are 4" appart(I'm at work right now and can't messure them). They weren't easy to apply, lots of messuring! I used a special tape to mask off the stipes from an Auto Paint Supply shop. It was 1/4" wide, and then I used masking tape , masking paper, and plastic sheeting to cover the rest of the car.

The kit is worth it if you don't have time or want to mess with making everything yourself. No bucks for a 6 speed? With 300 hp you can go with a world class T5 from a '88 and newer V8 car. It should have 26 splines on the input shaft. V6s have 14 splines, don't get that one!

Is this mechanical or vacuum secondaries? Mechanical works best with a stick, vacuum with an automatic. Yes this would be perfect with a 350.

Had my little fuel injected 327 Dynoed on Friday. I'm stoked at the results 435 HP reved up to 6500 rpm, and get this 493 ft lbs of torque! My engine builder said it could easily rev up to 7500 rpm and make close to 450 hp with close to 500 ft lbs! I had my rev limiter set at 6500, and it was still pulling hard when it came on. Spent most of the day dialing in the Edelbrock Pro-Flo, and even my engine builder was very impressed with it. In fact he is going to recommend it to his customers. Can't wait to get this thing in my car!!

I used block huggers for angle plug heads from a Street Rod company (http://www.zigsstreetrods.com)I test fit the engine with the headers on, with the JTR mounts, and the 1/2 inch spacers between the frame and cross member. They touched the passenger frame, which I dimpled(the frame). But the drivers side ,the steering shaft was in the way. So I went to Granger and bought a u-joint and a rod end, and will splice the steering shaft and install the u-joint, and rod end to hold the shaft. That will clear the headers. If this can be done with Street Rods, why not a Z car! [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited May 05, 2000).]

If you are going with coil overs, it means you want to lower the car as much as possible (more than a stock set up can handle)right? In this case you will have to adjust camber/caster angles to compansate for lowering, or you will wear your tires. So I would think that coil overs and caster/camber plates should go together.

Cool site! I'm supprised it weighs that much ( 3500 lbs )

Matt, you used #175 springs for the front? I just ordered coil overs from Ground Control and they suggested #200 for the front with a V8.

Myron,never heard of putting the chain around the car, but I have heard that you can ground the car, either with chain or those ground straps, from the frame or body to the ground. I think this version is supposed to make the paint flow better. [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited May 02, 2000).]

Thanks Frank! Yea watch out for that clear coat! You'll be sraying along, and it's looking nice and shiny, and you think, wow this looks great. Then you come back to that spot and ruuuuunnsss everywhere .So what I ended up doing is spray many light to medium coats.The only draw back is more orange peel, so you have to color sand more.

Where can you get adapters for metric threads? [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited May 02, 2000).]

Try this site. Sanderson headers for small block Chevys in every configuration. http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson7.htm [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited May 01, 2000).]

The problem is availability and cost. Ford is only making 300 of these cars at $55,000 a piece!

This was my first paint job, and I didn't know better, so i pulled a stupid and stopped clear coating after I saw that disaster. Waited a day, and started sanding the runs out, thinking I could just clear over it later. But I found out you can't do that, because the finish would be cloudy. You have to repaint base first then clear. So I did that but can still see some ripples from the runs. So... I will take down to primer that door and do it over again. I guess you learn from your mistakes!

I used PPG base coat/ clear coat 2 stage. The stipes where a killer getting them straight, and aligning them with the bumpers, spoilers, front valance, and tail light panels (not shown in pics).I must of taken 6 months of on and off again body work to get the body straight enough for black. The base coat went on real easy, but the clear was a bitch. I got major runs on the passenger door, which i tried to fix, but didn't turn out to good. So I will do the door over again. [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited April 27, 2000).]

I just finished the body work and paint on my car! go to http://members.tripod.com/~snowsurfer/mikekz1.html and scroll down to MikekZ pages. Just had to be the first here! [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited April 26, 2000).] [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited April 26, 2000).]

If you want more cylinders, Mopar Performance Parts is now selling the Viper V10 in a crate! 450hp 490 ft-lbs, aluminum block and heads, stianless steel tubular headers, 60 mm throttle bodies,engine wiring harness,air conditioning compressor, clutch and flywheel, power steering pump, 96 amp alternator, serpintine belt. Part # P5007084. The Viper crate installation manual (Part # P5007220) is 64 pages of info with 100 pics. The cost.....it dosen't say [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited April 25, 2000).]

It sounds like you have a torque converter for a heavy car. You need a smaller one.

For 295-50-15s on 10 inch rims I tubbed the wheel wells 4" per side. That gave me 3/4" to the lip, and 1" to the frame.

The guy at Ground-Control told me a spring rate of 200 for the front of my 240Z. Don't know about the back cause I don't need them there.

Scottie, I'm running (or will be, the engine is not in yet)a shortened 12 bolt Chevy with disc brakes. 295-15-50 on 10 inch wheels tucked under the stock fenders. narrowed frame and tubbed wheel wells. I'm using Jeg's Street/Strip suspension. Street mode - right bar functions as a torque bar, lift bar is a suspension link. Strip mode - Both bars function as adjustable ladder bars. Plus i have coil overs and a panhard bar. The rear cost aprox - $1300.00, the suspension, - $400, coil overs - $200. As you can see it's not cheap. There is a pic of it under "members rides"

Hey Michael, when are we going to see some pics of your project! Sound interesting!

You can buy one from Ram Air Box http://www.ramairbox.com

I know you cut off the front end, but where is your steering rack going to be? How are you mounting your engine, with a plate? What I meant was you can sink the engine between the frame, behind the steering rack crossover to get it lower. As for your crank clearence I'm guessing about 6 inches.But you want to spread the pan out to get it as thin as possible I presume. I think I would go with a dry sump, that way you could do that.