Mike kZ

Ya it's mounted, but the nose doesn't need support, it bolts to the block with one included shim. It's hard to see but it looks like it's lined up right. I'll be able to tell when I crank the engine. (not sure when that will be). I have the Centerforce flywheel, but starter to flywheel should be the same. [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited September 19, 2000).]

I wouldn't worry about the Camaro rad too much. JuJu's car stays a 160 most of the time, and on really hot days it goes to 180. That's with the black magic fan running at all times

I just bought the CVR mini starter from Jeg's.It has a Nippondenso motor (sounds Japanese), 4:1 gear ratio, and has 5 to 18 motor adjustment positions. The solenoid is encased in a heat resistant aluminum housing. Part # 171-5323 for 153-168 tooth at $146.99. I haven't started the car yet, but it looks like a well built starter.

I used "Vintage Air" system for street rods. I used their Space Saver model, part #02300-VUZ-A, it has heat, AC, and dehumidified defroster. Call for a catalog 1-800-TO-COOL-U

Ya, I have a gravity feed HVLP gun. It shoots real smooth, and uses less paint. Definitely go with one of these!

Darius, Sanderson make a shorty that you want! http://www.centuryperformance.com/cbSearch.asp?GoToPage=134 Scroll to the bottom.

They used to carry an in-line lock with a key to lock or unlock. I was going to use one of those for anti-theft, but the don't carry it anymore.

How about using a in-line hydraulic brake lock, JC Whitney sells these. It uses the line pressure to hold your rear brakes locked. You press your brake peddle, push down on the in-line lock button, which you would mount through the floor,relese your brake peddle and it's locked. When you step on your brake peddle again it unlocks.It's only $24.95, or $26.95 for silicone brake fluid. Part numbers are: 85EL6592Y 73EL4432T - for silicone.

Sorry Danno, but I'm not using the Datsun rear end. I'm using a shortened 12 bolt chevy with discs and 3:73 posi. I do have coil overs back there, but not a strut.Check member's rides.

I'm using Ground Control coil overs and camber plates, and shortened my front struts 2", and used '80 GTI front cartridges. What do you mean by the camber plates lower the car by 2"? My camber plates are flush with the top of the strut tower. Mike

I used the stock 240Z tank, but welded a sump on the bottom (like a cell). I cut out the spare tub, and centered the tank. Made new straps and mounts. Above the low part of the tank, I sunk a home made battery box in the floor for my battery.

Why don't you go aftermarket? I have an Edelbrock Pro-Flo EFI on my 327, with Trick Flow heads. On the dyno it made 435hp and 493 ft lbs tq! It ran smooth as silk on the dyno with a smooth idle. The Pro-Flo is easy to put on, and didn't take that much tuning.It should also give very good fuel mileage. My Z is not on the road yet, but I expect a daily driver out of it.

There's a spacer between the slave cylinder and the tranny? I didn't know that, if so I need one too!!!

What about exhaust manifolds or headers? I here that there is a clearance problem on these cars, especially if you have power steering. Mike

I think Lee is running maybe 300 - 350 hp. Maybe a Griffin would be better for high hp, I don't know. Mustang fan has 2 speeds, so does a Taurus fan, and it has a shroud. That's what I have.

Lee (JuJu) has the GM radiator, with the electric fan running and in traffic the temp never went over 160. In hot weather it may go up to 180. The fins on these are 7/8" wide, compared to the Griffin at 1". Thats only 1/8" difference. If you need repairs, you just go to the nearist rad shop. It may not be that easy with a Griffin.

Hey Pete, how do you know what gauge fusible link to use with what wire gauge?

Thanks for the thought, but I still like yours better! I bought some Edelbrock valve covers that look good, but if I come across a set like yours I'll snag them. So don't come near Georgia with your car or they might be missing!

76 280Z Speeder..., there are a few of us on this site from Georgia. Steve (Swatt5444), Lee (JuJu), and I are from the Atlanta area. Matt (Mattrp)is from Savannah. I think Lee, and Matt's cars are the only ones running right now. Check out "Rides" for our cars. Mike kZ

Welcome to the site! Motorsport has them for the 240Z, front and back, I think for around $135.00 ea. 1-800-633-6331. There are a few of us V8Zers up here in Atlanta.

Does this mean the Monster is coming back to life?

Pete, I think I made S&W a lot of money, I was the one that found their bar, and started telling everyone about it back at zcar.com. I took out the retractable belts from their pocket and fit the hoop in the pockets. All I had to cut was the angle to lay it back with the leading edge angle of the quarter glass. First I cut fit and welded the supplied plate steel in the pocket. The only thing is, I had to notch back the cross over bar(shoulder harness bar)about 3 inches towards the back of the car so I could move my seat all the way back.If you put yours above the seat belt pockets you might not have to do that.

That guy is an A**HOLE! I had the same problems with him!

The Vintage Air system is not cheap. I paid $945 for it. It's a universal Space Saver, built for mid size street rods and trucks. So it should cool my Z very well. It comes with evaporator, and mounting brackets, standard controls, I opted for the aluminum Proline control,wiring, louvers,ac duct hoses, drain kit, heater control valve. I also have the Sanden 508 compressor,refrigeration line kit, and the same horizontal super flow condenser as Pete. I had to modify the cowl area a bit to fit the evaporator, but it all fit perfect under the dash.

I replaced the old heater system, and put in a Vintage Air system in my '72 240Z. It has AC, heat, and defrost. Hey Swat, where in Atlanta are you from? I live in Lilburn, and JuJu lives in Hiram.