Mike kZ

Why don't you set the engine back further then the JTR method so it's behind the front cross member. That way you can lower it as much as you like?

That makes more sence! Thanks on the pics, I can't wait to get it on the road!!!

I noticed at your site that you're using the Stewert LBS damper in your brake system. I'm going to use this also, but my question is, why are you using a proportioning valve with this? According to Stewert you don't need a proportioning valve,and in fact don't like them.

I love it Lee!! I'll e mail you some info. Had a blast cruising around with Lee!! Makes me want to get my car going even more! I was wondering why you were babing it, I thought you were worried about flexing the frame or something. Don't worry about how I will react, look what I'm building [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited April 17, 2000).]

It's not that JTR hates the 4 speed, it's just that since there are 5 and 6 speed overdrives out there why not use them. But your right it's mileage and top end your losing. Plus you have to mess with the shifter linkages of the 4 speed, and you have to modify the tunnel for them to work.

Lee and Mikelly I read an article in Super Chevy where they were putting in a T56 in a 88 giveaway Camaro that had a T5. They said the only difference between the the two Master/Slave set ups where that the T56 one had a longer hose, and that it mounted differently on the trany. No mention of different volumes. So the T5 slave w/bleader valve may just work.

Are you sure you need cooling liquid? You don't need it for a regular shock, why an insert?

The solenoid beside the shifter is the Reverse lockout, the plug in below that is the speed sensor, the solenoid on the same side as the reverse lock out but just ahead of it toward the bell housing is the skip shift, the plug on the opposite side near the bell housing is the reverse light switch. Hope this helps.

The Mustang II suspensions are in '74 -'77 . But if you look at any Street Rod mag, or catalog, they are chocked full of weld in Mustang II kits for any width frame.

Why don't you use a Corvette front suspension, you'd have more engine compartment room.

Hey Lee, What are you doing this Saturday? I'll be working on my Z if you want to come over and check it out? Let me know. Mike

Did you try calling Summit? I would like to know how they fit also. I have the Trick Flow G2 heads with angle plugs.

Sorry, I had slave, and clutch cylinders on my mind. The reason why people are using aftermarket clutch assemblies with their T56s is because the stock clutch assemblies can only be used on a one piece rear bearing block from '87 and up. Most of us are using older blocks, so we need a special flywheel, and while we are at it, a high perf clutch(Dual Friction Centerforce)to handle high horsepower!

I assume you're talking about a stock Camaro clutch? If so it's totally different than the stock Z clutch, it angles down at 45 degrees, and won't fit the stock Z location. You would have to make custom brackets, and at the clutch peddle you would need a custom bracket also.It's much easier to mount an aftermarket cylinder in the stock location.

Sure Lee, I can help you out with that.Did you ever check your drive line angle? Check Pete's page, he's under the "links" to the left. He's done quite a bit of research on it.I was going to return my slave and master assembley back to the GM dealer, but I think I'll hold on to it for now because of the volume issue. By the way I did check the fit of the T5 slave onto the T56, I think it should work. I may have to dimple the drivers side tunnel a little to clear the hose. Hopefully the volume thing is not an issue. [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited April 06, 2000).]

I met with Lee today, I'm going to check the T5 slave on my T56 to see if it fits tonight. We had a great time talking Zs and checking out his car. It's looking great, and I had a lot of questions to ask, sorry Lee . Hopefully soon he can come out to see my car!

I cut the corner off of my mount too.

Sounds easy to me! I hope it all works! I'll see you next week Lee.

As soon as I see Lee's setup I'll let you know if it works for the T56. I'm very interested in this for my T56 setup, since I haven't got to this stage yet. Lee we need to get together soon so I can check this out, and talk cars!!

I used hubs from a 62 chevy, and modified them with stock Datsun rotors. They fit on the spindles like it was made for them. I'm sure any hub up to the late 70s will work.

What a great story lee!!! I was laughing my butt off through the whole thing! I've been doing a lot of color sanding lately. I just painted my car in the garage. I'm also putting together my engine and EFI to bring it to the dyno to break it in and tune the EFI.I'm only a couple of buildings down from Emory Hospital. My office # is 404-727-6236, give me a call next time! Hope to see you when you bring your car in! Mike

Nope! This has been a topic of Z car people for a while. If you do find a simple way of doing it, you'll have a lot of people interested! I think the first power steering in a Z car was in the early 80s

All right, kick some *** ! I can't wait until the day I can hop into my Z and take on the world! It seems like so far away

Hey Michael Jackson I'm using 295-50-15 tires on 15X10 rims. I think the total length from disc to disc was 45 inches. I'm using a posi, the axles are from Moser, and I'm not using C clip eliminators, because it's a light car and if an LS6 Chevelle can use a 12 bolt with C clips and not break them I should be OK.My pinion angle I think is 2 degrees down right now, but this is adjustable. My final drive ratio with my T56 is 1.87. On members rides there is a pic of the rear end.