Mike kZ

I have the same Master. The larger rear reservoir is for the front brakes.

So... , do we just isolate that white/red wire and not use it? Do we also have to bridge the ammeter guage? If we don't use the white/red wire will this affect something else? [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited November 27, 2000).]

Good question about the wiring of the Alternator, does anyone know the answer? I was looking at this the other day also.

Mike, LOL, what a funny story, LOL, I could just picture you out in the snow, slipping and sliding, firing shots in all directions, LOL!!! Chris, what a great idea!! to bad you had to pay for it!

If I ever caught some ******* doing that to anyones car, I'd rip him a new one!!! That just burns me up!

Sounds like you will have to do a lot of work to make these fit. What I would do is cut the bumper in half, then with help, place both halves on the side of the body. Bolt them to the body, and see how much of a gap you have where you cut the bumper. Once you have the bumper the way you like it, use 1" flat stock aluminum, and fiberglass them in about a foot or so past eash side of the split. Use as many flat stock pieces as you like on the inside of the bumper. Once this dries fill in the gap with fiberglass, and smooth it all out. I think this should do, but it's a lot of work! Anyone have any better ideas?

Yes you do, The JTR book tells you how to make the lower bracket ( It's basically a 2" flat stock bent to bolt on to the frame from the bottom.). On the top you can use the stock Camaro rad bracket from a scrap yard.

You can get the 2 rows of 1" tube in the 24" X 19" from Summit for $181.95, part # GRI-1-25202-X. You have to make custom mounts though, and it's quite thick, maybe 2 1/2" - 3" thick. You can also go with an aluminum rad from a '83-85 Camaro (light duty). This is JTR's recommendation. [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited November 20, 2000).]

I was real interested in those head lights, and contacted the owner. He told me that they were prototypes that Motorsport were working on, but because of government regulations they could not produce them.He got the only set.They where going to sell for around $600 for the set, a little too pricey!

Lee, who is a member here came up with this approach. He took a thick copper tube and bent it into an Z shape (of course).Flattened the ends and attached one end to the carb the other to the peddle. It works real well! Just make sure it dosen't hit anything in its travel.You can see a pic of it here: http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/zcar4.html [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited November 17, 2000).]

Very cool looking! Do you know from what car that upper rad hose comes from?

Ya, I saw those after my post Lone, they may fit the back of mine too. I wonder if you put glasspacks under the driveshaft area then these mufflers, if it would quit it down enough, but still flow well? Do resonaters flow well?, and where do you get them?

I haven't done this, but I think there will be a split. So you will have to seam weld it shut before any bondo for smoothing.

I never had a problem with them. What do you need 4 2ft bars for? 2 4ft or so, door bars come with their kit.

That would be an interesting subframe to adapt to the Z. I wonder if the width would fit?

You can also use a hydraulic throwout bearing. Pete has done this.

I was thinking of the Spintech Truck RV muffler, dual 2 1/2 in and out. Is that all you used was J pipes? and then cut them to size? http://www.spintechmufflers.com/spintech/spintechindex.asp

Hey Pete, did you butt weld the pipes together or did they slip into each other? How much did you pay just for the piping? I don't have room for mufflers at the back of the car, so I was thinking of one dual in and out muffler under the drive shaft area. Do you think that this would act like a cross over?

If you order right now, I just got a supplement sale flier, and it's listed for $43.95. Part #67-50-1041 70-78z clear. Then tell them you ordered from "sale #67"

Owen I put my main hoop in the seat belt pocket after welding in a plate inside the pocket. As for the harness bar I notched it back for seat clearance( so you can move the seat all the way back) http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/mikekz4.html

Found this site about LED replacement bulbs. They replace regular bulbs like 1156 & 1157, single and dual function bulbs. http://www.hitechledproducts.com

Link is not working, here's another. http://www.newtier.com/graber/z-car/gauges.html [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited October 10, 2000).]

That's only 1/16 of a difference, do you think that matters?

Well.... look who's back!!!!

Where did you buy the KVR pads, do they have a web pege?