Mike kZ

Looks cool Rick!! Can't wait to see it.

Man, I have to get out to Cedar Point one day! That looks awesome!

Let us know if it really works

For the brake, and clutch cylinders, you can go either under the floor, or under the dash. : http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/master_cylinder_systems.html

Here is another one in Ohio: http://opelgt.com/ppc/showproduct.php?product=686&sort=2&cat=9&page=1

Here's a stock one to compare:

Good! You can't be too careful, especially with the frame.

WOW! awesome! , felt like i was there. Sure is a noisy tranny though.

You could always go to "thread tools" then click on "printable version" and print them.

You're right the welds do look like they are on the cold side. If you could get an argon gas kit, it would help. That patch from the back side looks pretty good.

The only thing that looks a little iffy is your welds on the frame, The beads looks like they are sitting on top of the metal. Are you sure the weld penetrated? This weld has to be strong.

Very nice Warren, looks great!!

The first pic is real cool!

I don't know if you have this, but this is the email listed for him: micturbo@hotmail.com

Oh man, that really sucks! Sorry to hear that, I hope you have insurance. What was the "best day" part of that?

This is the only info I'm aware of: "Well as far as the manual...its $40 plus $2.50 shipping. Let me know if you want it in CD format or in a hard copy/binder. To order it you simply need to contact me. I accept Paypal, money orders, and cashier's checks. The manual covers everything you could possibly need in the conversion. If you are not able to weld, i give dimensions for all of the motor mounts, crossmembers, etc so that a welder can build you a them. I may consider having a shop here do the welding for you but i woudl need your stock cross members (tranny and motor) as well as you tranny (LS1 crossmember). The price would be significantly higher if we went that route. As shipping a chunk of metal and welding it here woudl be more than a manual itself. The manual is written in "layman's" terms so long as you have worked on a car before and know what common tools and parts are called. If you follow the directions carefully you will have a LS1 powered 300ZX :0) The manual also has MANY more very detailed pictures to help you along in the project. In my conversion, i went with the 4L60E automatic tranny found stock on f-bodies. The manual also covers if you wish to run with the 6-speed T56. It is a fairly bolt on project. the only major job you will need to do...is widen your tranny tunnel. I give you all the dimensions you would need to do this as well. Once again, if you decide that you woudl rather have a shop out here do the welding...let me know and we can work something out. If you have any questions, contact me at swmmr4u@aol.com or btschwa@sandia.gov Let me know!!!"

I don't think anything major would happen, but I'm not sure. You could put a meter to the grn/blu wire on the ign switch, then touch either blk/wht wire and see which gives a reading. The one that reads something is your ground wire. Make sure your ballast resistor is not hooked up. Do this with no power, and use the ohm or continuity on the meter

It looks to me, that the blk/wht wire that was attached to the ballast resistor is your power wire, the one that went to the coil is your ground. http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801d1d81.gif

http://www.atrol.com/cablex.htm

Welcome! Sounds like a great project, keep us posted, and post some pics.

I agree with Braap. Yes an LS engine is totally different, but physically it's a small block

I'm pretty sure the tanks are the same. I welded a sump to my 72 tank. Works great!

Check this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95051&highlight=lime+green

I knew Paul had something to do with this car!

Sorry I deleted your thread by accident. Maybe one of these wiring diagrams will help: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/1d/80/0900823d801d1d80.jsp