Mike kZ

If you can't find someone to do the whole thing, you will have to prep it yourself, then have someone weld it for you. First grind off the old spring perches, then buy your new strut inserts ( I used early 80's VW GTI Rabbit struts). You need to rent a large pipe cutter, and cut a max of 2" section or less ( if less you will need a spacer to make up the rest. i.e. 1.5 cut, .5 spacer). Your coilovers should have instructions on where the collor is welded to your strut. Then bring the whole mess to a welder and have him weld the struts back together and the collor on it. (to make sure your strut is straight when welding, use a 2" angle iron, and sit the strut in it, then weld together.) Good luck

It wouldn't heart. I personally have never heard of V8 aluminum heads warping. They are built stronge, not like a Honda head or something.

Check this out: http://www.datsunrestore.com/custom2.html

A Mopar 340 weights 550lbs stock. A Chevy 350 weights 575lbs stock. If you add aluminum parts it brings that down quite a bit. Stock power is about the same.

Click on my "freeserver" link below and go to photo page.

Sept 14th : http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20220

Check this post: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24485 and go to the Weir link. You can use the stock belhousing, but you need a special flywheel, and clutch assembly which will cost approx. $800.00. extra. If you go with the Weir product, for '97 it's the LT1 T56, the kit costs approx $580 extra. Do a search in the Drivetrain forum, not the Chevy one.

Are graphics a big thing in Sweden now? They used to be big here in the 80's

No reason to be depressed, you're well on your way! It just takes time to do it right. It took me about 4 yrs, and look at Pete, over 10 yrs. Just take your time and do it right

Here is Owen's page on the R230 swap, there are 4 pages to it: http://www.v8zcar.com/s30z/r230.htm

The JTR mounts for the Chevy are plenty strong and work well. Why re-invent the wheel if it works. The mount location on a Ford is different, that is why they made that cross member.

A rear sump would be better. Moved to Mopar forum

You need to do a search, there is a lot of info on this forum. There are no kits for the Ford swap, but I think someone has a modified cross member that makes a Ford swap easier.

You can now use the cheaper LS1 T56 behind an early Chevy, Pontiac, Buick, Olds. Even I4, and V6's http://www.weirhotrodproducts.com/

$206 each!! Are they crazy! I bought mine from someone who worked for Nissan in Canada for $46 each! I also bought the windshield, and back glass seal for I think the same price each. The doors close great.

Unfortuneatly the best solution is to buy OEM stuff from Nissan $$$

I think you should be alright with what you said, go for it!

I may be wrong, but I don't think it matters which way the pulley turns. If that's the case you could make a bracket to sit the stock compressor facing the motor if there is room. That way you can put it anywhere.

First off, welcome! You need to post in the right forum, "L6" to get the correct info.

It depends on the wheel, I have them on 14X6 Weld Wheels. They fit, but I had to grind down the casting hump facing the wheel.

Use a Ford gauge with a stock Datsun sender. It will not be exact. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/gagecalibration.htm

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